Where to See Georgian Folk Dance, Polyphony & Live Music in Tbilisi

From ‘dinner and a show’ packages featuring Georgian dance to local bars with folk music recitals, here are the best places for live entertainment in Tbilisi.

Given Georgia’s rich heritage of folk song and dance, it’s little wonder that seeing a live show tops many people’s list of things to do when visiting Tbilisi.

The capital is not necessarily the best place to see such performances – Svaneti and Guria are especially famed for their polyphony traditions – but this being Tbilisi, there is a huge range of live entertainment on offer, from live folk and jazz music to Georgian national dance.

This guide will show you where to find Georgian folk dance and live music in Tbilisi any night of the week.

If you know of any other venues I should add to the list, please share the details in the comments below.

My top picks for live music in Tbilisi every night of the week

Here are my top picks for every night of the week:

• Monday: Live jazz at Jazz Club 1984
• Tuesday: Live tango or bossanova at Zazanova Salon
• Wednesday: Wednesday Night Live at Wine Not?
• Thursday: Live rock or blues at #8 BBQ House
• Friday: Folk Friday at Shin-Aura
• Saturday: Live music & dinner with a view at See 360
• Sunday: Sunday Affair at Apotheka Bar & Lounge

Where to see Georgian music & folk dance in Tbilisi: ‘Dinner and a show’

‘Dinner and a show’ is a popular restaurant format in Tbilisi, and the option that most travellers go for when they want to hear folk music and see traditional Georgian dance.

I have been to my fair share of these venues over the past five years. Some are a little too ‘touristy’ for my taste, but if you embrace the vibe, then it’s all good fun!

Reservations for these restaurants are mandatory. For up-to-date information regarding minimum spend and dress code, you should double-check with the venue directly.

Ethnographer

My top choice in this category is Ethnographer, a large hall-style restaurant in Dighomi District, 10 kilometres (30-40 minutes by taxi) from Freedom Square.

The decor is beautiful, and the service is usually above average. Food is definitely pricey, so I recommend perusing the menu ahead of time and figuring out a strategic order. There is no minimum spend that I’m aware of, but you will likely end up forking out 100 GEL-plus per person.

In summer, the restaurant has a nightly musical theatre program that combines Georgian dance and folk music. It starts from around 8pm and lasts for around 2 hours. The costumes are beautiful, and the lighting is very dramatic.

I recommend reserving a table by phone or Facebook message 3-5 weeks ahead of time if you are travelling in high season. Be sure to request a spot close to the stage.

Ethno Tsiskvili

Also located in Dighomi a few doors down from Ethnographer, Ethno Tsiskvili is the restaurant that most people know and recommend for a show. In my opinion, the food is nothing to write home about (I much prefer eating down the road at Kakhelebi), but if you’re here for the show, you won’t be disappointed.

They go all-out at Tsiskvili, opulent costumes, fire-tipped swords and all. Performances take place every night from 8pm until midnight, beginning with polyphonic singing and folk music from the house ensemble, Ethno Art Band Gordela. Dancers come on in between sets, lighting up the floor. For something more laid back, the massive dining complex also has another dining area with live jazz.

Again, food prices are quite high, and they also enforce a dress code (‘business casual’) – so don’t come in your day clothes (long pants for men and a collared shirt are preferable; women can get away with a skirt or dress).

Reservations (first by email, then by follow-up phone call) are essential. Tables often book out weeks in advance during high season. Book via the website.

In The Shadow of Metekhi

This restaurant is located on the riverfront in Avlabari and has beautiful city vistas to complement its nightly live music program. Things kick off at at 8pm, and performances range from subdued vocal quartets to all-out folk dance extravaganzas.

Contact them via Facebook to confirm times and prices, and to make a booking.

Gorgasali

Located in Old Tbilisi amongst the Abanotubani Sulfur Baths, Gorgasali gets mixed reviews for both the food and service – but the location can’t be beat if you want to see national dance in the centre of the city.

Contact them via Facebook to confirm times and prices, and to make a booking.

Mravaljamieri

Mravaljamieri takes its name from a popular folk song whose title translates to ‘may you live a long life’. Georgian song and dance is staged every evening in the main dining hall during high season. They also have a large outdoor area. Find it on the riverside in Didube, 15 minutes by taxi from Freedom Square (note that the alternative spelling ‘Mravalzhamieri’ is used on Google Maps).

Contact them via Facebook to confirm times and prices, and to make a booking.

Restaurant Tabla (temporarily closed)

Located in Vake (20 minutes by taxi from Freedom Square), Tabla has a large dining hall with a stage and a dance floor. This place gets better reviews for its food and service – but portions are a little small in my opinion. Normally Tabla hosts vocal recitals every Thursday and Sunday by a resident quartet as well as national dance performances in the evenings.

Unfortunately Tabla is temporarily closed following a fire that damaged their building. I will return to update this info when things change.

Contact them via Facebook to confirm times and prices, and to make a booking.

Where to hear Georgian Polyphony in Tbilisi: Sunday morning Divine Liturgy

Believe it or not, but Tbilisi’s churches and cathedrals are one of the best places to hear UNESCO-listed Georgian polyphony. The polyphony you hear during Sunday morning service is a chanting rather than a singing, but it is very beautiful – especially when you attend a church with great acoustics.

Typically there will be three or more men chanting without any instrumental accompaniment. I have seen groups of up to six men spread around the church.

Divine Liturgy is held every Sunday morning in every active Orthodox church in Georgia. Special services are also held on feast days around Easter and Christmas. The service typically begins around 10am, with chanting at different points throughout.

There are always people coming and going throughout the service, and visitors are welcome to drop in and out as they wish. I usually stand towards the back to be out of people’s way. Remember to dress appropriately, behave with discretion, and refrain from taking photos.

The tiny Anchiskhati Basilica in Old Tbilisi has great acoustics and a notable ensemble. Sioni Basilica near the river is a larger venue with beautiful polyphony during the service. At the Holy Lord’s Transfiguration Convent (Queen Darejan’s Palace) in Avlabari, there are speakers in the churchyard so you can sit on a bench in the fresh air and listen from outside. As Georgia’s largest church, Sameba Cathedral attracts a big crowd every Sunday morning and has a great atmosphere.

Interested in learning more about Georgia’s folk music traditions? Voices of the Ancestors is a podcast ‘about Georgian polyphonic songs and the women who sing them’. Listen here.

Restaurants in Tbilisi with live music (all genres)

If you’re looking for something more low-key, here are some of the other a-la-carte restaurants in Georgia that host regular jazz, acoustic and rock performances from local bands as well as Georgian folk.

Reservations are always recommended – get in touch with the venue using the Facebook links provided below to book your table.

Top choice: Folk Fridays at Sheen-Aura

My top choice overall for live music in Tbilisi, Sheen-Aura is a restaurant-bar set inside an artist’s house in Saburtalo District. The suburban location away from the Old Town means it takes a bit more time and effort to get here (it is on the metro line, though), but the payoff is that the crowd is typically all locals.

Performances range from piano-vocal duos to jazz, and there are also poetry recitals and literary events. Folk Fridays are definitely the main event here and feature the finest Georgian folk ensembles in a laid-back, intimate environment. In summer, performances are held in the garden.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

#8 BBQ House

This Georgian-owned restaurant has it all: A great bar, a big terrace with city views, and a stage big enough for a full band. The menu here is mostly grilled meat and burgers, and to match, the weekend musical program favours rock and blues.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Backstage 76

This cult-classic bar has gone through many iterations over the years. It is currently located off Rustaveli Avenue and has expanded its kitchen to offer a full lunch and dinner service. As well as regular music performances (including quirky acts such as live accordion), they also host immersive film screenings and other events.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

Blue Fox

Not only is this charming restaurant a great place for brunch in Old Tbilisi, it doubles as a restaurant and outdoor bar. In the summer season, the courtyard is lit up with live music (usually an acoustic performance or a duo). The atmosphere is lively and vibrant.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

Ghumeli

Part of IOTA Hotel Sololaki, Ghumeli is a restaurant first and foremost that specialises in oven-baked dishes and steaks. Live music performances (normally a duo or quintet) take place on Friday evenings.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

See360

As the name suggests, this is one of the best restaurants in Tbilisi for a city view. See360 has live music every Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday night from 8pm.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

Zazanova Salon

This Georgian-European restaurant in Sololaki hosts live jazz and rock performances most nights. The program is usually finalised a month in advance and includes both established local musicians and up-and-comers.

Book a table via the Facebook Page.

Bars in Tbilisi with live music (all genres)

For wine, cocktail and craft beer, see this list of the best bars in Tbilisi.

Apotheka Bar & Lounge

This swish bar-lounge inside a historic Sololaki pharmacy has inspired cocktails and a lovely bar menu designed by owner-chef Tekuna Gachechiladze. Music here on the weekends is usually more subdued to suit the vibe – expect anything from vocal performances accompanied by piano and violin, to live DJs.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Drunk Owl Bar

This popular bar in the Old Town (not far from the Meidan Bazaar) has live music on weekends from 8pm. As the name suggests, this is a place to get tanked up on cheap booze. The atmosphere is great and the staff are friendly, but the majority of the clientele are tourists. Entry is free.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Ikalto Micro Art Residence

This is a laid-back indie gallery inside a ninth-floor apartment in Saburtalo. Piano and acoustic performances are often staged alongside exhibitions and residencies by young artists. The only entrance fee is the 5 tetri coin the elevator demands.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Jazz Club 1984

Tbilisi does not have a jazz scene like Baku, but it is still a very popular genre here. One of Georgia’s most respected jazz institutions, Jazz Club 1984, has events every night of the week throughout the year. The location inside an apartment in one of Rustaveli Avenue’s most iconic buildings is completely charming, and the staff here are friendly and passionate about music. Tickets can be purchased online through Biletebi or at the door.

Find event listings and announcements on the Instagram Page.

MacLaren’s Irish Pub

Tbilisi’s longest-running Irish pub screens sporting events and hosts bands most weekends, with music ranging from subdued acoustic performances by Georgian artists in the early evenings, to late-night extravaganzas with rock-and-roll cover bands.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Wine Not?

Wine Not?’s Gudiashvili Square branch (they also have a microbar in Vera) has a full kitchen plus a stage for live music. Georgian acts are hosted most nights in high season and on weekends throughout winter and spring.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Woland’s Speakeasy

This cocktail lounge near Freedom Square has a rotating program of karaoke, dance and quiz nights. This is a great place to meet other travellers.

Find event listings and announcements on the Facebook Page.

Concerts & events in Tbilisi

Of course there are dozens of theatres and concert halls in Tbilisi that regularly host Georgian musicians of various genres. The Jansug Kakhidze Tbilisi Center for Music and Culture, the Tbilisi Conservatoire, and the Vaso Abashidze State New Theater all have interesting annual programs.

TKT.GE is the main ticketing website in Georgia and the best place to browse events for multiple venues and genres all in the one place.

Sukhishvili Company is the holy grail of Georgian dance – if you get a chance to see the national ballet either in Tbilisi or at their outdoor stage, Takara, don’t miss it! I have been lucky enough to see them three times now, including at a behind-the-scenes rehearsal and a special fundraiser performance for Ukraine.

The troupe normally tours Europe in summer and returns home for a limited season in late autumn/winter and/or spring. Tickets always sell out in a matter of minutes or hours, so you have to be fast. Check the website and Facebook Page for announcements.