Planning a trip to North Macedonia? Don’t skip the small town of Krusevo. My detailed travel guide covers all the best things to do in Krusevo plus how to get there, where to stay, and other helpful tips.
At 1,300 metres above sea level, Krusevo (AKA Krushevo, Kruševo, Crushuva) is the highest town in North Macedonia, and in the Balkans. But the altitude is not its only claim to fame.
Set on a series of hills interlocked by vertiginous cobbled streets, Krusevo is home to a historic Old Bazaar, some phenomenal heritage architecture, and a collective of traditional craftspeople.
It’s also the site of the Ilinden Monument, one of Former Yugoslavia’s most iconic spomeniks, the origin point of a rebel republic that reshaped politics at the turn of the century, and the birthplace of the region’s most beloved pop musician, dubbed ‘Elvis of the Balkans’.
Located between Skopje and Lake Ohrid, Krusevo is an easy detour for anyone who wants to experience small-town, old-school North Macedonia. Indeed Krusevo feels at times like a bit of a Yugoslavia time-warp.
I spent three nights in Krusevo and fell a little bit in love. This is by far my favourite place in the country.
In this guide, I’ll show you all the best things to do in Krusevo and share my tips for planning a visit.
While you’re here, check out my other North Macedonia/Balkans guides for inspiration.
– My North Macedonia itinerary features Krusevo and other hidden gems.
– My Skopje itinerary features all the best things to do in the capital.
– My North Macedonia Travel Guide has all my resources and essential tips for the country in one place.
– If you plan on driving in North Macedonia, check out these Balkan road trip itineraries to help plan your route.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Place of the Pear Trees
Krusevo is a small town of just over 5,000 people, tight-knit in the way all isolated mountainous communities seem to be. The topography has shielded Krusevo from change over the decades and as a result, it feels a bit like it’s locked in time.
The first thing to know about Krusevo is that it’s multilayered, both ethnically and culturally. The town was ruled by the Byzantines, Bulgarians and Ottomans before it was folded into Yugoslavia in 1929.
Pockets of Greek, Bulgarian and Aromanian heritage (Aromanian is a co-official language here) endure, as does the legacy of the Orthodox Albanian families who fled here from Korca and surrounding cities in the 18th century.
In Macedonian language, Krusevo means ‘Place of the Pear Trees’, a sweet moniker for an undeniably beautiful slice of the country. In summer and fall, trees drip plums, pears and figs onto fields of tobacco leaf, and in winter, the rolling hills transform into ski slopes.
Krusevians might take issue with me attaching the words ‘lovely’ or ‘sweet’ to their town, though. Beneath the quiet, almost somber veneer, Krusevo has long been known for a fierce fighting spirit that coaxed a grassroots rebel liberation movement into existence in 1903.
The Ilinden Uprising originated in Krusevo. It started by calling on people of all ethnicities and religions to unite against the ruling Ottoman Sultanate, and ended with the declaration of the Republic of Krushevo, the only self-governed area in the Ottoman Empire at the time.
Pitted against the Ottoman Army, the Krusevo rebels were clearly the underdogs. Their arsenal included a collection of cannons crafted hastily from cherry wood in the lead-up to the battle. The cannons proved ill-equipped for the job (they burst after a few firings), but they took on special symbolic value for the town.
You can see this motif repeated all over Krusevo today and even find mini hand-turned cannons sold as souvenirs.
The Krusevo Republic was short-lived – it lasted all of 10 days. In retribution, soldiers executed almost 10,000 people and destroyed most of the town. But it was a pivotal moment in shaping the narrative around Krusevo. People here have fought hard to hold onto their traditions and independence through times of struggle – and there have been plenty.
The Uprising also gave the town its most famous landmark: The Ilinden Monument (Makedonium).
12 wonderful things to do in Krusevo
From the spectacular landscape to the intriguing history, Krusevo offers some truly unusual travel experiences. One or two full days is ample time to see everything.
Note that I visited Krusevo in summer. In winter, the town takes on a totally different character when it transforms into a winter sports mecca. The ski lifts and beginner slopes are located in Stanich, just west of the centre.
Here are the best things to do in Krusevo regardless of the season. Remember to bring a jacket – it’s noticeably chilly up here, even in summer – and good walking shoes to tackle the steep streets.
1. The Ilinden Monument (Makedonium)
If you’ve heard of Krusevo before, it’s probably in relation to the Ilinden Monument, a distinctive spomenik (Yugoslav-era war monument) built in 1974. Known locally as Makedonium, this structure is the recipient of many international accolades, including being named one of the top 10 most unique buildings in the world by Architecture & Design.
Standing 25 metres high and realised in pure-white poured concrete, the Makedonium can be seen peeking above the rooftops from most vantage points around town. The closer you get, the more intriguing it becomes.
The Makedonium commemorates the Ilinden Uprising and also pays tribute to soldiers from Krusevo who fought during WWII. Designed by Jordan and Iskra Grabul, a husband-and-wife team from the nearby city of Prilep, there is some speculation as to the inspiration behind the form. Some say it resembles a heart valve, while others argue its shape is modelled on a mace, a traditional weapon and symbol of resistance.
You can walk around the perimeter of the monument to see it from every angle. The front is marked by a long ramp leading to the main entry: A set of double doors in the shape of the letter ‘M’ for Macedonia.
From the back, the Ilinden Monument looks almost impenetrable, so I was surprised when Petar, the museum curator who was sitting behind the ticket desk on the morning we visited, offered to show us inside.
The interior is just as interesting as the exterior profile so I strongly urge you to pay the ticket price and venture in. Each ‘node’ is a deep alcove – the top rows are fitted with either a stained glass window (a set of four panels designed by artist Borko Lazeski to represent the four seasons) or a skylight.
The bottom four niches were designed by the architect and contain abstract relief sculptures depicting the nation’s various struggles, starting with the Ilinden Uprising.
The raised platform under the central roof dome represents an eternal flame and is decorated with flags, artworks and occasionally wreaths left in tribute as part of commemorative events.
It must be said that the Ilinden Monument is in incredibly good shape, especially compared with other spomeniks in the region such as Bulgaria’s Buzludzha. In fact, the Makedonium was the first spomenik to undergo rehabilitation post-Yugoslavia when it got a facelift in 2003.
A memorial park extends in front of the Makedonium and has several different components. A series of abstract sculptures in the same shade of white symbolise broken chains and North Macedonia’s struggle for freedom.
The amphitheatre with brightly coloured curved walls was created by artist Petar Mazev and is described on the information panels as an ‘outdoor classroom’.
Lastly, a more austere concrete memorial set into the side of a smaller hill holds the remains of soldiers and other national heroes marked with 58 bronze plaques.
Tips for visiting the Ilinden Monument (Makedonium)
The Makedonium is located on Gumenje Hill at the northern edge of town, a 20-minute gentle uphill walk from the centre. The sculpture park and monument exterior is accessible 24/7 and is free to visit. If you want to go inside the monument, you’ll need to buy a ticket from the booth at the main entrance.
Entrance price: 60 denars (approx. 1.20 USD) per person for foreign guests. Cash only. These fees help maintain the monument and employ caretakers for the park, so I strongly urge you to buy a ticket, even if you enter the grounds ‘unofficially’ from the back.
Tip: If you want to explore the park unguided and see the monument from a different vantage, approach from the back (walking through the forest from this point) instead of using the main entrance.
The nearby National Liberation Museum was unfortunately closed at the time of our visit. It’s located 100m from the Makedonium, near the carpark.
If you’re interested in Krusevo’s war history, you should also plan to visit the Mečkin Kamen (‘Bear’s Stone’) monument, a huge sculpture that marks the spot where the Republic was declared. It’s located 15 minutes’ drive south from Krusevo (see the exact location here).
2. Tose Proeski Memorial House
The Toše Proeski Memorial House is another iconic memorial in Krusevo – although it’s of a completely different ilk. It pays tribute to singer Toše Proeski, a beloved pop star across the Former Yugoslavia.
Proeski grew up in Krusevo and is considered a hometown hero. Sadly, this is also his final resting place – his life was cut tragically short in 2007 when he passed away at the age of 26 following a car crash in Croatia.
During his short career, Proeski achieved cult-status, earning him the nickname “Elvis Presley of the Balkans” (a title bestowed by the BBC).
His modern two-story memorial museum was built in 2011 to house a permanent exhibit on his career and childhood in Krusevo. It’s a pilgrimage site for fans of the pop idol. There are displays of personal possessions (school yearbooks and the like), outfits he wore during memorable live performances (including when he represented his country at the 2004 Eurovision Contest), and an audio exhibition where you can listen to his albums through headphones.
We had absolutely no idea who Toše Proeski was before we showed up to the museum. That quickly changed, and it ended up being quite a memorable visit despite our ignorance. That’s mainly thanks to the wonderful guide who accompanied us through the entire exhibit, interpreting information panels and sharing stories about her personal memories of Proeski (everyone in the small town knew him and knows his family). At points she was overcome with emotion and became visibly upset. It was very moving.
The Tose Proeski Memorial House is located across the road from the entrance to the Makedonium complex. Note that photography is not permitted inside.
Opening hours: 9am-4pm, Tuesday through Sunday.
Entrance price: 100 denars (approx. 2 USD) per person.
3. Explore Krusevo’s Old Bazaar
Despite its remoteness, Krusevo emerged as an important commercial centre in the 19th century and was well-connected at the time with the rest of Europe via a range of trade routes. Merchants such as the Nitsiotas brothers from Krusevo sold their wares as far afield as Vienna, I’m told.
Back home, Krusevo’s compact bazaar was the centre of local industry. It’s tiny compared with the grand bazaar in Skopje, but it did the job.
St. Nicholas Church sits in the middle of the Old Bazaar area, its distinctive red-and-white-striped clock tower serving as a waypoint for navigation.
Today this is still where you’ll find many local businesses, ranging from cobblers to fruit vendors and traditional candy makers (more on that in a moment).
It’s a joy to wander the cobbled streets and admire the cute shop fronts, many framed-up in a striking shade of blue that seems to be the favourite colour here in Krusevo.
4. Buy a box of Krusevo lokum from Tagas Balkan
Lokum (AKA Turkish delight) was introduced to the Balkans during the Ottoman period. Krusevo is known for producing North Macedonia’s best lokum, made from scratch according to a generations-old recipe.
It may seem counterintuitive that a town famous for trying to overthrow the Turks continues to make and devour a treat with their oppressors’ name on it. But sweetmakers here have made lokum their own, turning it into a local tradition.
One company in particular, Tagas Balkan, is favoured by locals. Their workshop in the Old Bazaar is no longer operating, but you can still buy their lokum from the little shop pictured below.
Note that the lokum shop has had a bit of a facelift and now has new windows and pink awnings! The location and the branding are the same, and I’m told the lokum is still just as delicious.
The lokum is sold by the box, beautifully wrapped in white-and-blue packaging that’s decorated with an image of Krusevo’s skyline. The symbolic cherry wood cannon takes pride of place in the foreground.
I’ve been eating lokum (albeit a very Westernised version) since I was a kid, so I was very excited to try it. It’s not flecked with nuts or fruit, but rather it’s a smooth, very mild rose-coloured gel.
The recipe is a closely guarded secret so I’m not even 100% sure what the flavour is – but it’s delicious. Despite the fact that the individual pieces come swimming in powdered sugar, it’s not too sweet either.
A box of lokum from Targas Balkan will set you back 110 denars (approx. 2 USD).
5. Meet Dedo Mile, Krusevo’s last barrel maker
When I was preparing for my visit to North Macedonia, I came across an article on the Krusevo Tourism website that profiles a number of the town’s traditional artisans. In addition to the lokum-maker, a sled-maker and a barrel-maker, both of whom honour the town’s long heritage of woodwork, also call Krusevo home.
I managed to get in touch with Sotir from the tourism board and he issued me with GPS coordinates for the barrel maker’s workshop. As luck would have it, it was right opposite our apartment.
It took a couple of tries, but eventually I got to meet Dedo Mile (Grandpa Mile), a fifth-generation craftsman. Mile is the last person in Krusevo who knows how to make wooden barrels by hand. This is truly a dying art.
Mile kindly showed us around his workshop and posed for a few photos at his woodworking table (he’s a complete natural). Wearing a mustard-coloured sweater and a gaping smile, he was covered from head to toe in wood shavings.
There is a small cellar-like room opposite the workshop where Mile stores his finished barrels. They’re quite beautiful, especially when you consider all the work that goes into them.
I only wish we could have communicated with Mile so that we might have heard more of his story (or learned what the barrels are actually used for – I’m assuming wine?). The only information we got was his age which he signed out for us with his fingers – 86.
Krusevo’s sled workshop is just down the road at the intersection, but sadly it’s closed during the summer months so I missed out.
6. Admire the painted houses in Vlashko Maalo
One of my favourite things about the Balkans is the mix of architectural styles on display. After falling in love with the opulent merchant houses in Plovdiv and the fortified homes in Gjirokaster, I arrived in Krusevo and discovered a whole new genre of design to swoon over: North Macedonian vernacular.
I later learned that Le Corbusier visited Krusevo in 1926 and had only positive things to say about the local architecture. See, I do have good taste!
Remember that Krusevo was almost wiped off the map after the Ilinden Uprising. This gave residents a blank canvas essentially to rebuild their town from scratch. The vernacular style that emerged (in this part of North Macedonia anyway) dictates lofty, squarish stone houses of three or four stories. Rooms are completely enclosed with no outdoor spaces, a direct response to the weather.
The large mansion homes are known as kuka.
The decorative front section, the bondruk, features wooden columns and beams covered with white plaster. They bear some similarity to the famous houses in Berat, Albania, but differ in their totally unique decorations. The colour blue was favoured by the local Vlachs and so features prominently throughout Krusevo. (Interestingly, I’ve seen this exact shade in villages in southern Georgia settled by Doukhobor families at around the same time.)
The most stunning examples of Krusevo architecture can be found in the Vlashko Maalo neighbourhood, which accounts for the southern portion of the town. Here, the houses are embedded on steep slopes and thus appear to stand tall and proud above the rooftops, their designs on full display for anyone who walks by.
My favourite house in all of Krusevo (pictured above) is Gurković House. It features paintings of twin lions and ornate florals under the roof eaves. It’s dated 1862, so it’s probably a reconstruction of an earlier home that was destroyed.
7. Pop into the Nikola Martinoski Gallery
Artist Nikola Martinoski was born in Krushevo in 1903 and went on to become one of Yugoslavia’s most prominent painters. He’s also considered the father of modern North Macedonian art.
His house museum in Krusevo displays a few of his best known works, including ‘Mother and Child’, a stunning portrait of an Aromanian woman that was a work in progress for more than 30 years. The museum holds more than 60 canvases in total, although not all of them are hanging.
Other rooms in the artist’s birth house are fitted out in the traditional style – replete with antiques and costume displays – to provide a window onto life in Krusevo at the turn of the century.
The museum is located on the hill above the Old Bazaar. Refer to my Krushevo map below for the exact location.
Opening hours: 8am-4pm weekdays only.
Entrance price: 30 denars (approx. 60 cents) per person. Cash only – bring the correct change.
8. Eat Macedonian cuisine at Krushevska Odaja
Krushevska Odaja (Krusevo Room) is the best restaurant we ate at in Krusevo. If you want to try traditional North Macedonian mountain fare, this is the place to do it.
The interior is decked out with colourful tablecloths and vintage memorabilia, with traditional folk costumes hanging on every wall. There’s a lovely little wooden terrace out front where you can sit in the warmer months.
The menu namechecks most of North Macedonia’s national dishes, including tavce gravce (flavoursome baked beans served in a clay dish), makalo salad (made with boiled potatoes and chilli), and sarma stuffed vine leaves. They do an amazing meat and roast veg kebab, which comes served on split suspended mid-air!
Krushevska Odaja’s location at the bottom of the hill near the entrance to the Ilinden Monument complex makes it an ideal place to break for a meal after a morning of sightseeing.
Other restaurants to try in Krusevo include:
- Ethno (simple and affordable fare, including grilled meat and a delicious tavce gravce)
- Andora Pizza Restaurant (home of Krusevo’s best pizza)
- Shape Restaurant (traditional Macedonian served on a big outdoor veranda)
- Old School Cafe (easy meals and good coffee)
9. Find the car graveyard
I know this is a little left of field – but if you find old cars photogenic like I do, you won’t want to miss Krusevo’s ‘car graveyard’!
There are vintage cars all over town, abandoned in parks and rusted onto street corners. Occasionally you’ll see a restored number struggling up one of the steep streets.
But there’s one location in particular where the most colourful wrecks have all congregated. It’s at the bottom of the hill, right opposite the restaurant mentioned above.
Here you can see lime green cars nestled in tall grass, struggling to overcome the encroaching dandelions, a gorgeous baby blue beetle, and even a couple of ‘Yugos’, a short-lived model that was manufactured in Serbia from the 1980s.
I later saw on the map that there’s a Fiat workshop in this location, so that might explain why there are so many old cars about.
10. Catch the view from Hotel Montana Palace
Earlier I described Krusevo as a bit of a Yugoslavia time capsule. Vintage cars aside, nowhere is this nostalgic vibe stronger than at Hotel Montana Palace.
Walking into the lobby of this humongous log cabin-style hotel is like stepping into The Shining. Seriously. Built in the 1970s, this was a government-owned resort set up as a fresh-air retreat for Yugoslavia’s citizenry, Soviet Sanatorium style. It’s now partially abandoned (the bottom levels at least), while rather miraculously, the main part of the hotel is still operational. My guess is that it survives off guests who visit Krusevo in the winter months for skiing.
This is a terrific place to get a view over the sea of stout houses that is Krusevo. You can even spot the Ilinden Monument far off in the distance. An outdoor terrace spans the bank of the hotel’s ground floor and you can sit at a table here overlooking the valley and order a coffee from the bar.
Hotel Montana Palace is located on a hill at the southern end of town (at the opposite end of Krusevo to the Ilinden Monument), roughly a 20-minute walk from the centre. On your way up, stop off at Holy Trinity church – it’s this church’s bell tower that shows up prominently in photos taken from the balcony.
11. Go walking (or paragliding) on the outskirts of town
Outside of ski season, the hills around Krusevo are perfect for short hikes, mountain biking and even paragliding. Heli X hosts tandem flights if you’re game.
The liftoff point for paragliding is on the main road past Hotel Montana Palace. We didn’t partake (we were still recovering from our paragliding experience in Colombia!), but we did go for a walk along the road to get a taste for the views.
We started from Hotel Montana Palace and aimed for this scenic viewpoint, roughly a 3km uphill walk that follows the road.
12. Climb a hill for sunset
The twilight hours are some of the prettiest in Krusevo, when the chimneys fire up and the dust of the day settles over the valley. You can get a beautiful sunset view from any of the hills on the western side of town. This unmarked viewpoint overlooking a steep street is particularly photogenic.
The only thing better is watching the sun go down from the comfort of your private balcony, a glass of Tikveš in one hand and a slice of lokum in the other. That’s pretty much exactly how I ended each day in Krusevo!
See my hotel recommendations in the next section for a great west-facing apartment with a generous private balcony and wall-to-wall windows overlooking the town.
Map of things to do in Krusevo
To help you plan your visit to Krusevo, I’ve put all the attractions and restaurants listed above on a handy map. I’ve also included landmarks such as the bus station and ATM.
Click here to access the interactive map on Google Maps and save a copy to your device.
Where to stay in Krusevo
Apartment rentals are popular in Krusevo and the best choice if you want to stay right in the heart of the town. We spent three nights at On Top Apartments, an exceedingly comfortable one-bedroom apartment with a shared kitchen, tidy ensuite bathroom, and best of all a spacious private balcony with an amazing outlook over the entire town.
I’ll never forget waking up to the panorama pictured above – can you believe that was the view from our room!
Booking.comHow to get to Krusevo by bus
There are regular minivans between Krusevo and Skopje, Ohrid and Bitola every day. (Note that services are usually reduced on Sundays.)
The closest transport hub is Prilep (just 30km from Krusevo), so it’s often necessary to change vans there. We caught a direct van to Krusevo from Skopje, but leaving Krusevo for Ohrid, we had to change vans twice – once in Prilep and again in Bitola.
Krusevo’s tiny bus station is located at the bottom of the main street, just past the hospital (see the exact location here). The building is often locked as the attendant only comes down when a bus is scheduled to depart or arrive. He speaks English and is very helpful.
It’s not necessary to buy tickets for onward travel from Krusevo in advance, but I do recommend arriving 15-20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. We actually missed our first bus from Krusevo to Ohrid because we didn’t realise the van was there waiting… Hm!
Skopje to Krusevo
Balkan Viator lists three daily services from Skopje to Krusevo at 7.45am, 3.45pm and 4.45pm (Mon-Sat) and at 7.45am, 4.45pm and 7pm (Sun). At the time we travelled, a ticket from Skopje to Krusevo cost 430 denars (approx. 8.30 USD). Travel time is around 3 hours.
According to the timetable at Krusevo bus station, there are just two direct vans back to Skopje, departing at 7am and 4.30pm daily.
Bitola to Krusevo
According to the bus station in Krusevo, there are two direct vans to and from Bitola each day, departing Bitola at 12.20pm and 4.30pm, and departing Krusevo at 7.20am and 2.20pm. The fare is 180 denars (approx. 3.50 USD) and the travel time is 1.5 hours.
Prilep to Krusevo
For ease, it may be sensible to plan your route to/from Krusevo through Prilep, as you know there are plenty of reliable van services throughout the day (many people go to Prilep for work or to do their shopping). This is the timetable posted at the Krusevo bus station:
- Prilep to Krusevo: 7.25am, 9.35am, 11.40am, 2.45pm, 4.40pm & 7.30pm (Mon-Sat) & 9.35am, 2.45pm & 7.30pm (Sun)
- Krusevo to Prilep: 6.25am, 8.40am, 10.20am, 12.30pm, 3.20pm & 5.30pm (Mon-Sat) & 8.40am, 12.30pm and 5.30pm (Sun)
Travel time between Krusevo and Prilep is 30-60 minutes depending on the type of service and how many stops the driver makes. Tickets cost 110 denars (approx. 2 USD). From Prilep, you can easily connect to vans bound for Skopje, Bitola, Ohrid, and many other destinations across the country.
Driving in North Macedonia
North Macedonia is the perfect size for a road trip and self-driving is a great way to avoid the trials of van transport. I recommend using Discover Cars to find the best deal on a rental car in North Macedonia.
If you’re driving into Krusevo, you’ll most likely be coming via Prilep and approaching the town from the east. This brings you right into the heart of town and the main street. It’s recommended to avoid Road 517 from Cer, as it’s narrow and treacherous.
If you’re thinking of doing a Balkan road trip, check out this collection of self-drive itineraries for the best routes around North Macedonia and beyond.
I’m curious – have you been to Krusevo? Is it somewhere you’d like to check out one day? If you have any questions about Krusevo or travelling in North Macedonia, let me know in the comments below.
This was such a lovely blog post that I referred to, during my time here, in Krusevo. Thank you, Emily!
You’re most welcome Pragya! Hope you had a fabulous trip!
Hello Emily! Many thanks for sharing your experience. I just came back from my trip to Northern Macedonia where I often relied on your posts and itinerary that you prepared. Your blog was really useful and inspiring. And by the way, I highly appreciate your photographs. I wish you all the best and more beautiful journeys!