Albania

For a small country, Albania has a lot to offer – and I’m not just talking about the beaches. The Albanian Riviera gets most of the attention, but for me, the country’s greatest appeal has always been inland.

It’s the lesser-visited south and southeast that I love most, with its old bazaars, mountain villages and the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. The small towns of Leskovik, Lin, Korçë and Përmet are all personal favourites, along with Dhërmi and Qeparo tucked in the hills above the coast.

The Albanian Alps – where trekkers lace up their boots for the spectacular Valbonë-Theth hike – is of course a highlight, as are the historic stone towns of Berat and Gjirokastër. Tirana is one of the most liveable capitals in the Balkans and a place where I could easily see myself settling down.

With its distinctive language, traditions and what I consider to be the best cuisine in the Balkans, Albania feels quite unlike any of its neighbours. This makes it a refreshing change of scene if you’re on a longer journey around the region.

Of all the countries I visited on my first Balkans trip, Albania was the one I was most eager to return to. And I did – this time swapping shared transport for a rental car so I could venture to more remote corners. Two very different journeys later, there’s still so much of Albania I want to discover – and every reason to return.