A partisan statue and city view at sunset from the Martyrs Cemetery in Korca, Albania.

Albania.

“The true history of mankind will be written only when Albanians participate in its writing.”


The Land of Eagles

From the Albanian Alps to the Albanian Riviera, it seems the best way to wrap your head around a country that was off-limits to outsiders for so long is by drawing comparisons. In reality, there’s no place on Earth quite like Albania.

Small in stature but lofty in every other sense, this country offers a perfect balance between culture and adventure. A road trip around Albania might take you from the soaring peaks of the Accursed Mountains then plunge you into one of the country’s iconic Blue Eye water springs before you land a spot under a beach umbrella – or perhaps a seat at an outdoor cafe in Tirana, the capital city.

From Mother Teresa to Enver Hoxha and General Skanderbeg riding in on his steed, the history of Albania is complicated and fraught. This country owns its past while moving forward with great momentum – you only need look to Tirana, where nuclear bunkers have been transformed into museums and galleries – to see that. From the language to the costume and the delicious cuisine, Albania is distinct from its Balkan neighbours.

Albania loves a good epithet. There’s UNESCO-Listed Berat, the City of a Thousand Windows, Gjirokaster, the City of Stone, and the City of Serenades, Korca, near the border with Greece. Old bazaars, Ottoman aqueducts, Roman ruins and colossal castles (there are more than 158 fortresses around the country) all hold vigil over Albania’s historic cities.

Three slow-paced weeks travelling around Albania was enough to seal the deal: This is one of my favourite countries in the Balkans.


Albania Travel Guide: A woman sits on the stone wall of a fortress in Berat, Albania at dusk.

Albania travel essentials

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When to go

July/August (summer peak season, best for trekking); September/October (cooler, less crowded).

How long in Albania?

Allow 1-2 full days for Tirana; approx. 7 days for the highlights; 2-3 weeks to see everything.

Daily budget

40-45 USD per person per day (mid-range hotel; restaurant meals and drinks; bus fares, museum tickets).

Getting there

Fly into Tirana; ferry from Bari to Durres/Corfu to Saranda; drive/bus from any neighbouring country.


Visit Albania: The Ultimate Albania Travel Guide


My Albania favourites

Best Hike

Valbona to Theth in the Albanian Alps.

Must-eat meal

Tavë kosi (baked lamb) and Qifqi (minted rice balls).

local experience

Taking a Xhiro (evening stroll) on any main street.

best souvenir

A handwoven carpet from the bazaar in Gjirokaster.