Current road conditions, tips and hints for travelling the Zagari Pass in Svaneti from Ushguli to Kutaisi (or Kutaisi to Ushguli).
The drive from Ushguli to Kutaisi via Lentekhi and the Zagari Pass (also known as the Zagaro Pass) is one of the most epic road trips in Georgia.
Update: As of June, the Zagari Pass is clear and open for the 2026 season.
Upgraded in 2024, this ‘new’ road links the highlands of Svaneti with Kutaisi and Tbilisi, allowing travellers to drive a loop without having to double back through Mestia and Zugdidi.
I have driven this road six times now – most recently in July 2026. In this guide, I share updated information about the road and insights based on my own experiences and information gathered from other travellers.
There is a lot of misinformation going around about this road – I hope this guide helps to clarify a few key points. If you have travelled between Kutaisi and Ushguli recently, please consider leaving a comment below – it’s a huge help to other travellers!
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Ushguli to Kutaisi distances & travel times
We can think of this road in three separate stages:
- Ushguli to Lentekhi: 73 kilometres; 2 hours – a ‘new’ sealed road, completed in 2024, that goes over the Zagari Pass and ends in the town of Lentekhi (Lower Svaneti region).
- Lentekhi to Tsageri: 22 kilometres; 30 minutes – an existing road that has been sealed for several years and ends in the town of Tsageri (Lechkhumi region).
- Tsageri to Kutaisi: 68 kilometres; 1.5 hours – an existing sealed road that passes through Tskaltubo. (This is the most direct route, but there are alternative roads you can take into Kutaisi/Tbilisi – more info below.)
And broadening it out:
- Zugdidi to Mestia: 140 kilometres; 4-5 hours – an existing sealed road.
- Mestia to Ushguli: 47 kilometres; 60-90 minutes – another ‘new’ sealed road that was completed in 2024.
The total distance from Ushguli to Kutaisi is 160 kilometres, taking around 4 hours to drive in either direction.
Current Kutaisi Ushguli road conditions (2026)
The road between Ushguli and Lentekhi is no longer a dirt track – it is a sealed road that uses a combination of asphalt and concrete, with some short sections of compacted gravel.
You do not need a 4WD for this route – you will see all types of cars on the road, from Delicas and SUVs to campervans and Priuses! A car with high undercarriage clearance is never a bad idea no matter where you are driving in Georgia.
This is partly because you will still encounter patches of rock/rubble where the road has been damaged by landslides.
This area is prone to landslides, with the greatest risk coming in late spring when there is heavy rain.
Unlike Zugdidi-Mestia where you have huge sections of the road slipping away down the mountainside (mostly repaired as of 2026), on the Ushguli-Kutaisi road, you are more likely to see rock and debris falling onto the road from the cliffs above.
These ‘landslide zones’ are between 100-200 metres in length. In these sections, the road is not surfaced and you have to drive over compacted gravel/dirt.
There are also a few places where you must drive over shallow puddles and running water. These are not river crossings, just areas where small waterfalls flow down over the road.
When landslides do occur, the authorities are relatively fast to act, clearing the road within a few hours or a day max. Recently, we encountered patches of road that were covered with small rocks, but they had already been completely cleared just 32 hours later.
Landslide-prone areas are marked with signs. The most problematic spots this year still seem to be lower down, on the approach into Lentekhi, especially between Beniere and Mele villages, plus on the approach into Lentekhi.
Apart from these landslide sections, the road is wide enough for two cars to comfortably pass each other, with a decent shoulder for some of the route.
One major advantage of this road (compared to Mestia-Zugdidi) is that far fewer people use it. (If you’ve driven in Georgia before, you will know that managing other drivers is the most stressful part – so a quiet road is a good road!)
It is essential to consider weather conditions and landslide risks when deciding whether to drive this road. I’ll share more details in the next section.
Watch the video: Ushguli to Kutaisi
Important things to know before you go
It is fair to say that this road is in better condition than the more-popular Zugdidi-Mestia Road. But that does not mean it is completely risk-free.
This is still a remote, high mountain area, and the road is necessarily narrow and windy in places. The drop offs are not as steep as in other areas, and there are reflective delineator posts and wire safety barricades along most of the road.
As I mentioned, this area is prone to landslides. The weather can turn quickly, so it’s essential to check conditions before you set off. During active heavy rain, or especially in the days following rain, you might want to rethink your decision to drive this way.
You can check for any road closures or updates on conditions using the GeoRoad Facebook Page.
There is no network coverage in some parts of Svaneti, so keep in mind that for part of the drive, you will be offline. I use Magti, which is considered to have the best coverage in Georgia, but even so there are places where the connection drops out.
There are no formal gas stations in Ushguli, so I recommend filling up your tank in Lentekhi (or in Mestia, depending on your direction of travel).
You can find small markets/grocery shops (Ori Nabiji, Spar) in Lentekhi.
When is the road from Kutaisi to Ushguli open?
Unlike the Zugdidi-Mestia Road, this road is not open year-round. Because of the altitude and avalanche risk, the Zagari Pass is closed during winter.
Most years, the road is officially open from the end of May until the start of November.
In 2025, the road opened to traffic in the last week of May. In 2026, the road was fully open in early June.
However, the safest window for travel is between the second week of July and the last week of September. This period has a lower chance of rain and road closures, and the scenery – rolling green hills or the first autumn colours – is breathtaking.
From October onwards, you are more likely to encounter difficult road conditions or temporary closures due to snow and ice. In 2026, the first meaningful snow fell around the pass on October 2.
Exact opening/closing dates change year to year depending on the weather. If you are planning to drive in late spring or autumn, you will need to double-check if the road is passable. I suggest you ask your guesthouse in Ushguli.
Most of the photos in this guide were taken during the second week of September.
How to travel from Ushguli to Kutaisi: Transport options
Rental car (self-driving)
Hiring a car and driving yourself is by far the best option in terms of price and convenience. The drive between Kutaisi and Ushguli is not an overly challenging one, but to drive in Georgia at all, you should be someone who is confident on the roads.
Some car rental agencies have a blanket ban on this road, and have not updated their T&Cs to reflect the recent changes.
Martyna z Gruzji is a reputable Kutaisi-based company that has always permitted travel on this road. Use wanderlush when you book for a 10% discount.
At my request, Local Rent has lifted its ban. But only some agents will allow you to travel on this road. At the time of booking, filter your results and turn on the ‘Mestia-Ushguli-Lentekhi’ toggle to display available cars for this route. Please also remember to read the T&Cs.
Shared transfer with Budget Georgia
My partners at Budget Georgia recently launched a Kutaisi-Ushguli Day Trip, departing the city in the early morning and making several road stops before crossing the Zagari Pass to spend the afternoon in Ushguli. It’s a very long day, but if you are on a tight timeline, a day trip from Kutaisi is now an option.
Conveniently, you can take your luggage with you and request to be left in Ushguli at the end of the day – i.e. make it a one-way trip. Currently, this is the only option for scheduled shared transport over the Zagari Pass.
Before you book online, email Budget Georgia and mention Wander-Lush to get 10% off your reservation.
Private driver
Budget Georgia also organises private transfers between Kutaisi and Ushguli (both directions) between July and October, starting from 400 GEL for a sedan.
Before you book online, email Budget Georgia and mention Wander-Lush to get 10% off.
GoTrip
Unfortunately, GoTrip does not operate on this route yet.
Marshrutka van
There is no shared transport on the Ushguli-Kutaisi Road at present. All marshrutka vans still run through Zugdidi. To get from Ushguli to Kutaisi (or reverse) using shared transport, you will first need to pass through Mestia.
Shared vans to Mestia depart from the bridge in Ushguli throughout the afternoon. In Mestia, vans depart from the bus station area for Zugdidi/Kutaisi/Tbilisi/Batumi in the morning.
Which direction of travel is best – Ushguli-Kutaisi or Kutaisi-Ushguli?
If you are driving a loop through the mountains like I suggest in my Svaneti Itinerary, then you will have to choose your direction of travel.
I have driven the Zagari Pass in both directions multiple times, and I much preferred doing it in a clockwise direction from Ushguli to Kutaisi. There are several reasons for this:
- Leaving Ushguli for Lentekhi, you start the drive by aiming straight for Georgia’s highest peak, Shkhara. It is absolutely stunning.
- The scenery on the way down the Zagari Pass is generally more spectacular – especially the descent into Koruldashi.
- The road over the Zagari Pass is steeper than the Mestia Road, so going down this way feels easier on the car (and might be more fuel efficient).
- Entering Ushguli for the first time from the direction of Mestia is more impressive. Coming up from Lentekhi, you arrive at the ‘back end’ of Ushguli, without a view of the towers. It’s just not the same in my opinion!
- Once you reach Tsageri, you have the option to join up with the road through Lechkhumi and Racha and continue through another stunning mountain region.
Just keep in mind that if you set off in the early morning from Ushguli, you will have the sun in your eyes for the first part of the drive!
Where to stop along the way (viewpoints, reststops & more)
Zagari Pass viewpoint: At the highest point of the road, the Zagari Pass (2,620 metres), there is a massive cleared area on the right-hand side of the road where you can safely pull over for a view and photos. (Pictured at the top of the page.)
Church of the 13 Assyrian Fathers: This tiny, modern chapel sits above the Zagari Pass with a view of the mountains and the winding road below. It is be reached via a narrow off-road (unsealed) track.
Koruldashi viewpoint: There is a second cleared area at the top of the switchbacks near Koruldashi where you can pull off the road for a photo of the glacier.
Old Bridge: Definitely less exciting, but this old bridge across the Zeskho River in Benieri village is another waymarker that is a bit cute.
Sasashi: One of several pretty villages you drive through in Lower Svaneti, Sasashi has a great guesthouse called JorJinn. If you want to break-up the journey, this is the best place to stay.
When you are driving through Sasashi, keep an eye out for the Stalin statue located in someone’s front yard. It is gigantic and hard to miss! Apparently the statue was relocated here from Poti.
Abandoned Muashi Resort: This former resort/camp is located on the site of mineral water springs that are well-known in Svaneti. The architecture of the old Soviet-era buildings and cabins is really cool – definitely worth the detour. (Pictured below left.)
Lentekhi: This small town has shops and pharmacies, plus several small restaurants where you can eat kubdari (a famous Svanetian dish of bread stuffed with spiced meat). Nunu’s Svanian Kubdari is my pick. (Pictured below right.)
Tsageri: The first major town you hit on the way down, Tsageri is the main centre of Lechkhumi region. I haven’t spent much time here, but there is a local museum and a castle you can visit.
Continuing the drive to Tbilisi (Ushguli to Tbilisi)
There is only one road between Tsageri, Lentekhi, and Ushguli. Once you reach Tsageri, you have several options to continue the drive towards Tbilisi.
Option 1: Via Tskaltubo & Kutaisi: The most direct route, passing through Tsageri and Tskaltubo, then joining the main Rikoti Pass highway at Kutaisi. Note that there are major works on this road in 2026, with large gravel sections that are slow-going. You might wish to take the alternative road into Kutaisi via Alpana and Tvishi instead. Travel time 5-6 hours.
Option 2: Via Racha-Lechkhumi & Sachkhere (Khikhata Pass): A more scenic route that goes through Lechkhumi and Ambrolauri before taking the Khikhata Pass to Sachkhere (near Chiatura) then travelling down to join the Rikoti Highway before Gori (travel time 5.5 hours).
Option 3: Via Racha-Lechkhumi & Tkibuli (Nakerala Pass): Another scenic route through Lower Racha then bypasses Kutaisi to join the Rikoti Highway near Terjola (travel time 6 hours).
Hi, first of all, thanks for all of the posts and information!
I am visiting Georgia for the last two weeks in October. If the conditions allow, I would love to travel along the Zagari Pass. Since Localrent has prohibited driving along this route later than 30.09., when renting a car from MARTYNA Z GRUZJI, driving along the pass would not be an issue (as long as it’s still open), am I right?
Do you think it would be worth the money, since Localrent is a bit cheaper?
Thank you for your advice!
Hi Nils, I’m not sure if the road will be open/safe to navigate at that time. End of September is usually the cut-off, and we have already had some snow in Ushguli this year.
This road was a great option for us – thanks for the suggestion, Emily, and for the driver contact – he subcontracted to a driver from Kutaisi who sang your praises! We managed to find a third passenger so we could split the cost. Even though the weather was v misty and drizzly, it was so good to not backtrack to Mestia & Zugdidi & it was a bonus to visit Rachka Waterfall on the way.
Great to hear that! Thanks, Lisa!
Hi Emily! Thanks for your blog. Thanks for the great info and updates. We drove from Kutaisi to Mestia via the Zagari Pass yesterday, September 27, 2026. The roads were in very good condition, with a few minor exceptions. There is a construction site after Ushguli that is a bit of an adventure (: but that’s nothing new when driving through Georgia. It took us about 5 hours in total. The weather was perfect, and there were only three small landslides that were easy to drive around. Best regards from Mestia!
Thank you Steffen for the note! Glad you liked the drive and I hope you enjoy Mestia!
Hi Emily!
A friend and I will be visiting Georgia Sept 4-20, and we’ll be doing the Mestia-Ushguli hike, after which we’d like to head over to the Kazbegi region. Do you have any tips on how to make this trip, without a rental car and on a backpacker budget..? Thanks so much!
Hi Dit, probably your best option is this:
Ushguli – Mestia (shared taxi in the morning); Mestia – Zugdidi (marshrutka at midday); Zugdidi – Tbilisi (train); Tbilisi – Kazbegi (marshrutka).
You might be able to do Ushguli to Tbilisi in one day (the train leaves Zugdidi at 6pm), then continue to Kazbegi the next morning.
Hello! Thanks a lot for this post and for your blog, it was so helpful to plan our trip to Georgia! I wanted to say that we drove from Mestia to Kutaisi around August 11th passing by Ushguli, Zagari Pass and Lentekhi and the road was in a very good condition. We had a Subaru Forester 4×4 but you can do it with a normal car. There are only a few short sections were the road is not paved, but I saw “normal” cars passing by those.
Glad you enjoyed the drive!
We took off from Ushguli today and ran into sign that indicate the road was blocked. We kindly ignored the signs and there was issue at all. Smooth surfaces for most of the time, some landslide repairs. This was much easier than the Zugdidi option. We did meet two locals who crashed their car and needed a ride onwards. Take good care, and always wear a belt. (The guy without who had smashed into the steering wheel was clearly not well).
Thank you for this post. We drove from Ushguli to Kutaisi today, August 7th 2026. The roads were in great condition. We did not use a 4WD, we took a Chevy Volt Sedan. There are a few spots from landslides but just traverse them slowly and you’ll be fine.
The road was actually MUCH better condition than Zugdidi to Mestia.
Thanks Ryan, we had the same experience in July.
If you can believe it, the road from Zugdidi to Mestia is actually in a much, much better condition this year compared to last!
We did the drive from Mestia up through Ushguli to Kutaisi this morning (5th Aug) and stopped off to see the old soviet spa buildings in Tskaltubo. Drive was absolutely fine (in an suv crossover)- some minor rockfalls. We left at 6.30am from Mestia which was brilliant as we only had 3 cars to deal with.
Thanks Victoria, hope you enjoyed the journey!
We drove this route today (24 July 2026). There were a few challenging spots but absolutely nothing regrettable or scary. We initially rented a car through Local Rent, but the owner refused to let us drive that route, so we canceled and booked a Mitsubishi Outlander from Martyna z Gruzji instead. No problems whatsoever. What a stunningly beautiful place Ushguli is. Well worth the effort. Thank you, Emily, for luring us to such an awesome destination!
Glad you enjoyed it, Chris!
If you use the filter box option on Local Rent, that will show you a list of cars that do allow driving on this route.
as of today 19 May 2026.
I’m at Ushguli. I’m told works to clear the snow continue today and tomorrow and the pass will be open.
So from May 20 afternoon potentially able to pass. Things can always change, so possibly opens a day or two later.
Thank you very much for the update, Aaron! I think because of the snow, it will be best to wait a little longer than usual this year before driving the road.
Hope you are enjoying Ushguli!
Hi Aaron, thanks for this update. we arrived today in Mestia and we are planning to drive on the 22nd over the pass.
Hi Peter, please double-check with someone locally as the pass did not open today as planned and it might not be safe to drive as early as Friday.
thank you, yes we were already planning to double check first
hello,
is the road already open? I’m looking to pass it tomorrow:)
Hi Patrick – the road is open but there is still a lot of snow and ice. I would not recommend driving it until more of the snow has melted.
Hi everyone, we would like to take the pass on tuesday. Do you know if there have been any changes to the status of the pass beeing open? Cheers, Marina&Alina
Hi Alina, I made a note at the top earlier this week – the pass is open. Have a safe drive!
Hello from Ushguli, we‘ve just been told that the road via Lentekhi will be closed due to heavy snow (estimated until June).
Dear Emily, many thanks for your travel blog! We find a lot of helpful things to know and to do. Best wishes, Uli
Thanks Uli, the tentative opening date for Zagari this year is May 20 but you never know what the weather will decide!
Enjoy your time in Svaneti!
Hello Emily
Is the Zagari Pass already open? We are currently in Mestia and we plan to drive to Ushguli. Is it already possible to drive down to Lentekhi?
Thanks for your feedback.
Ben
Hi Ben, no – May 20 is the tentative date but it depends on weather. I would not recommend driving until June at the earliest.
Hi Emily, thanks for this wonderful post! It’s really hard to find anything informative & up to date about these roads in the internet. I have one question about Kutaisi to Lentekhi part. Google maps show me 2 ways from Kutaisi to Ushguli, one more from West side by Ghvedi & Larchvali and second one East side through Zhoneti & Tvishi. Whic one is this NEW and good one? 🙂
Hi Jan – the Tvishi road is technically newer, but both roads are fully sealed and just fine.
Last year there were some minor works on the Ghvedi road, but it is generally faster so I would opt for that one – it’s the one we normally use ourselves.
Safe travels!
Hi, I’m planning to self drive from Mestia to Ushguli in early Dec 2025.
Localrent told me that driving from Mestia to Ushguli is not allowed in Dec 2025.
Is there any way that I can visit Ushguli?
Does it usually snow heavily in early Dec and the road will be closed?
Hope to hear from you.
Thank you!
Hi Albert, as others have said that road is quite snowy this season so far. The only option would be to ask a local driver in Mestia. If the road is open and safe, they will take you.
Hi Emily,
Your blogs have been so helpful in planning our camper trip through Georgia, thank you!
We’re planning to drive the Zagari Pass this Friday, the last day of October, and I was wondering if it’s still accessible. I couldn’t find any updates about a closure on the GeoRoad Facebook page. Do you happen to know where I could find the latest information?
Thanks a lot for your help!
Hi Suzan – there is snow in Ushguli and on the pass already. The road is open, but conditions are tough – and right now it’s raining in Kutaisi which means more snow in the area. I would recommend you check with a local i.e. your guesthouse in Ushguli.
Hi Emily, we followed your suggested itinerary but counterclockwise to make sure we could complete the loop, since snow was forecasted in Ushguli later on. We ended up driving the Zagari Pass last Tuesday, October 28th. There was some snow on the upper section at around 2,600 meters, but it was still perfectly manageable with our old camper at that time. Thanks for your reply!
Thanks so much Suzan for the update! I heard the road was still open into November this year (and might still be open now), which is great news for travellers. I hope you enjoyed the drive!
the road is still open mid november. given that this autumn has been soft on the Svaneti region and thus has not yet been officially closed.
however I was not able to drive from Ushugli to Kutaisi. The road downhill after the pass and viewpoint is behind a mountain and thus in the shadows. because of that the road was too icy to safely drive down. even though it was a +- 500 meters stretch i did not risk it. maybe with chains on all four wheels it could have been possible. as well as later in the day after some sunshine has hit the road it might be passable. I was there at 12 am.
I am happy to still be able to get the views from the pass as they were stunning, but I reverted to driving all the way back to zugdidi and then to Kutaisi
Thank you for recommendation. We did the trip from Kutaisi to Ushguli today (6. sept. 2025) and the road through Lentheki and Zagari pass is even better than from Ushguli to Mestia. Still some roadwork (but most of it between Kutaisi and Lentheki), few parts marked as landslide with short gravel sections, but upper part on both sides of Zagari pass is very good. Just be carefull during the heavy rain… some landslides can still occur, but that is the same on all roads around Ushguli.
Thanks for the update, Martin! I will be up there again in a couple of weeks.
Thank for advice. We did it against the clock, still great experience. Actually the upper part from Mestia to Zugdidi we had really the worst roadconditions. Sobit works end of August. And once you are in Lentheki, google maps works as well
Yes – one of my fantastic readers managed to fix the maps glitch! Hope you enjoyed the drive!
Thank you for the information!! It helped a lot. We drove from Kutaisi to Ushguli this weekend (August 24, 2025) and the road is in very good condition. We rented a Toyota Prius and didn’t have any issues. Then we returned going from Ushguli – Mestia – Zugdidi, and the roads are doable but not as good as from/to Kutaisi. Thanks again for the help!
Thanks for the report, Luciana!
Emily, I love your blog. Thank you.
Tblisi is going to be my home base for 8 nights later this month. I am intrigued by the Zagari pass. Is it practical/feasible to do the pass leaving mid morning on the first day with an overnight along the way and a return the following day by late afternoon? If yes, can you recommend a car and driver?
Thanks VERY much for any advice you might have.
Hi Peter, thanks!
I would recommend going Tbilisi-Kutaisi on day 1, Zagari and Ushguli on day 2. Obviously it’s better to spend more time in Svaneti, but if you are short on time, you could return to Kutaisi on the same day then back to Tbilisi on day 3. I would consider spending the night in Ushguli and returning to Tbilisi from there. But you certainly need a minimum of 3 days.
Thanks for sharing the latest updates on road conditions, faster than Google Maps!
I’m letting you know that despite writing “At my request, Local Rent has lifted its ban …”, Local Rent still shows prohibitions for that road on their 2 GE pages and no mention of the road being safer than the one via Zugdidi.
I know, JB – as I mentioned, you need to email them.
Hi Emily, is there currently any public transportation option to get from Kutaisi directly to Ushguli via Lentekhi and the Zagari Pass?
Hi Miha, no there is not. There is the day trip with Budget Georgia, linked here, which you can make one-way on request.
Hi Emily,
Your blog is a treasure of information. We did the clockwise loop as you recommended , returning August 5/25 and it was just as you detailed. Great advice, gorgeous drive, broad pavement except those few area; so glad we did it that way!
Great to hear that, Kelly! Thanks very much for taking the time to drop an update.