A comprehensive travel guide for Zugdidi, Samegrelo’s biggest city. Includes the best things to do in Zugdidi, suggested day trips, where and what to eat, travel tips, plus a recommended itinerary.
There’s nothing I love more than visiting a small town or city that only has a couple of well-known attractions and digging out more information.
Places like Zugdidi are the reason I travel – and the reason I continue to write about Georgia despite having been all over the country multiple times now.
Zugdidi is the biggest city and capital of Western Georgia’s Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region. For most people, it’s just a quick whistle stop on the way to the mountains of Svaneti (Mestia and Ushguli).
The first time I came this way in 2017, I spent a grand total of 40 minutes in Zugdidi waiting to board a bus. Later on, I saw some photos of the Dadiani Palace and promised myself I’d return one day to see it in person.
Well, the time finally came, and I decided to spend a full two weeks in Zugdidi two summers ago. Now that I’m living in Kutaisi, I’ve been back to revisit Zugdidi again.
While it’s true there might not be a lot of popular attractions here (aside from the Dadiani Palace of course), like every other small city in Georgia, Zugdidi has its charms.
In this case, the best things to do in Zugdidi beyond the palace mainly revolve around Mingrelian culture and cuisine.
In this guide, I’ll show you 15 wonderful things to do in Zugdidi, plus my favourite Zugdidi restaurants and Megrelian dishes. I’ll also share practical information for getting to and from Zugdidi and other tips to help you make the most of your visit.
My aim is to encourage you to spend a day or two in Zugdidi and discover Samegrelo region, which is quickly becoming one of my favourite parts of Georgia. If I succeed in persuading you, please drop me a comment at the end and let me know about your travel plans!
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Why visit Zugdidi?
Samegrelo is a fascinating part of Georgia and Zugdidi, its biggest city, is in many ways the region’s cultural capital.
Samegrelo is the ancestral land of the Mingrelians, one of Georgia’s ethnic groups who have their own dialect, traditions and craft heritage, including clay pottery, folk singing and dance.
One of the most compelling reasons to visit Zugdidi is to taste Mingrelian food: spicy adjika, rich kharcho and stretchy elarji are among the highlights.
Most people know Zugdidi as the home of the Dadiani Palace. Herein lies another interesting facet of Zugdidi’s history: it’s royal connection.
The Dadiani dynasty ruled Samegrelo (then known as Odishi) from the 11th century and had a presence here until 1867 when the last prince was forced to abdicate by Imperialist Russia. Salome Dadiani, Prince David’s daughter, married Achille Murat, the grandson of Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister – hence the family’s connection to French royalty.
Their former residences and the cultivated garden they established are Zugdidi’s main tourist attractions today.
Beyond the Dadiani Palace, downtown Zugdidi has an industrial, Soviet feel.
Huge apartment blocks covered with mosaic tiles and Soviet friezes sit beside wooden Oda houses with delicately carved balconies.
If this period of Georgian history interests you, you’ll enjoy seeing the architecture in Zugdidi and mosaic hunting on the outskirts of the city.
Where to stay in Zugdidi
Top choice: Casa de Khasia
Casa de Khasia is a small guesthouse set in a family home in the centre of Zugdidi. The property features a sprawling vegetable garden, shady terrace spaces, a library, and an external kitchen set up in the traditional Mingrelian style. Double rooms all have en suites. Breakfast is included.
Although I didn’t stay at Casa de Khasia this time around, I had a full tour of the property before sitting down to coffee with the owners, Rusudan and Gia – a wonderful local couple who also founded Zugdidi’s longest-running NGO and the only Georgian radio station that broadcasts in Abkhazia. Next time I’m in town, this is where I’ll be sleeping!
Check rates & availability for Casa de Khasia on Booking.com.
Guesthouse: Elco
Also set in a family home, this time a few blocks from the railway station, Elco is honestly one of the best guesthouses I’ve stayed at in Georgia. Rooms are big and spotlessly clean, with great ensuite bathrooms, a kettle, and coffee and tea supplies. Owners Remidi and Elzia are exceptional hosts – when I stayed with them, they invited me for dinner and gifted me a huge bag of mandarines and lemons from the garden!
The location close to the railway station makes it ideal if you’re transiting through Zugdidi on your way to Mestia.
Apartment: In Front of the Botanical Garden
We stayed at this private self-contained apartment. It’s perfectly positioned in front of the Botanical Garden and ideal for longer stays because it has a full kitchen and private entry. Host Duska is very attentive and can help you organise taxis and transport.
Getting around Zugdidi
The central part of Zugdidi (including the palace complex and restaurant area) is small enough to navigate on foot. The rest of the city is relatively spread out, so you’ll need to use city buses or local taxis to travel from one end of town to the other.
Bolt app is available in Zugdidi (albeit with a small fleet of drivers), and local app Maxim also works.
Other attractions close by, including Rukhi Castle and the Black Sea coast, can be reached by marshrutka. For anything further afield, I recommend hiring a car and driver for the day. Use GoTrip for popular routes, or enquire at your guesthouse for daily rates for more complex itineraries.
To give you an idea of price, we paid a local driver 100 GEL to travel 60km from Zugdidi to Sujuna and back (roughly 6 hours in total with lots of stops).
15 wonderful things to do in Zugdidi
Here are my favourite things to do in Zugdidi.
1. Visit the Dadiani Palace Complex & Museum
Zugdidi’s most prominent landmark and number one tourist attraction is the Dadiani Palace. This stately building sits proudly in the centre of a manicured ground adjacent to the Botanical Garden.
Taken as a whole, the Dadiani royal complex consists of two large palaces (the 19th-century palace of Queen Ekaterine Chavchavadze-Dadiani and a separate residence for her son, Niko), a monastery, and the family’s former private estate that is now the Botanical Garden.
The distinctive facade of the main palace combines neolithic and oriental elements, while the interior had a plush Russian-Parisian vibe in its heyday.
The second palace, Niko Dadiani Palace, is more austere but no less beautiful. Built in the 1880s according to designs by Russian architect Leonid Vasiliev, it combines Russo and Georgian elements.
Inside, the largest ballroom in the country was once used to host soirees, attracting literary icons, members of the artistic community and intelligentsia from around Georgia.
In 2018, major renovations on Niko Dadiani Palace and the Botanical Garden were completed. Niko’s palace is currently closed to the public, but I’m told that the museum collection will eventually be relocated here so that the main palace can receive some TLC too.
The Dadiani Palace Museum collection was established in 1839 by Prince David, making this one of the oldest museums in the Caucasus. It took its current form in the 1920s.
The collection includes some 45,000 items related to the Dadianis and Odishi, mainly precious books, coins, military paraphernalia and furniture.
My favourite items are the 19th-century paintings of Old Tbilisi and the archival images of the Dadiani family.
Icons and crosses from the 10th century are kept in the Treasury and can only be viewed as part of a guided tour (this incurs an additional fee and was unfortunately not available at the time of my most recent visit).
The highlight of the Dadiani Museum collection is certainly the 1833 bronze death mask of Napoleon Bonaparte (one of only four in existence), acquired when Princess Salome married into the French imperial family.
When I first visited Zugdidi, it was sitting rather forlornly in a glass cabinet at the back of one of the rooms. Now the mask has a much grander presentation.
There isn’t any signage in English, so if there is a guide available, I recommend paying a bit extra to have someone accompany you. Otherwise, it takes around 20-30 minutes to cover the exhibits.
Photography is permitted inside the museum. Lockers are available for storing small bags – and if you’re waiting for a bus or train, you can probably leave larger luggage items behind the security desk.
Back outside, to the right of the palace you’ll see the St. Virgin Mary of Vlacherna Church.
While you’re here, be sure to wander around the corner to see the rear section of the palace, the old wall, the arbour walkway, and the pair of watchtowers that look straight out of Transylvania.
- Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays) from 10am-5.30pm
- Ticket price: 8 GEL (or 12 GEL for a combo ticket that includes the Treasury)
- Guide service: 20 GEL
If you’re interested in following the trail of the Dadianis, you might like to track down their other residences in Samegrelo. There is a summer house in the village of Gordi (now sadly ruined), and a restored palace (Levan Dadiani’s Palace) in Salkhino.
Martvili Canyon was famously used by the royal family as a ‘private bath’ and is also very interesting to visit.
2. Take a stroll through the Zugdidi Botanical Garden
Located adjacent to the palace, Zugdidi’s Botanical Garden, then known as the Principal Garden, was designed by Triese-born landscape architect Joseph Babini in 1840. Planted with seedlings from France and Italy, it followed a symmetrical design and incorporated a parterre, a conservatory, and an artificial lake and island.
Deer and wild goats once frolicked in the palace gardens, which over time came to incorporate flora from around the world – and more than 700 endemic species of plants from the South Caucasus.
After the House of Dadiani met its demise, the family’s private grounds were converted into a sprawling public garden.
Like the Batumi Botanical Garden, it’s more of an arboretum that showcases different species of exotic trees rather than flowers or shrubs.
Much of the garden is a forest of tall, slim trunks. There’s a workout gym, a peacock cage, and even a camping area (priced at 15 GEL per night). Ak Dadian, a cafe located inside the park administration building, has unfortunately closed.
A tree-lined alleyway cuts through the middle of the garden, linked by a series of smaller paths. There are a number of other structures to see as well, including a gardener’s house, a greenhouse, and the very pretty ruins of an orangery.
The Botanical Garden is particularly nice at dusk when the lights go on – just make sure you bring your bug spray!
Note that there are only two gates so once you’re inside, you have to commit to walking the entire length of the park or doubling back. The main entrance to the garden is located behind the southern corner of Niko Dadiani Palace.
- Opening hours: Daily from 6am until late
- Cost: 5 GEL (free entry from 6am-9am every day & on the last Friday of every month)
3. Eat traditional Megrelian food at Diaroni
As you probably know by now, every region of Georgia has its own specialty cuisine. Megrelian is probably my favourite.
Known for being deeply aromatic and spicy, many Megrelian dishes make liberal use of chilli and adjika, a regional spice ‘paste’. It’s also very dairy heavy (I don’t think I’ve ever eaten so much cheese in my life), and features cornmeal instead of wheat flour.
There are lots of restaurants worth trying in Zugdidi (my full list of recommendations is coming later), but Diaroni is widely considered the favourite for local eats. Like Batumi’s BatuMarani, Diaroni specialises in traditional recipes and true-to-taste renditions of old classics.
Traditional Megrelian dishes to try in Zugdidi
- Gebzhalia: Parcels of cheese-stuffed cheese (yes, really) in a creamy sauce flavoured with mint, chilli and lots of salt. Served cold as a side or a starter.
- Puchkholia: Another cold dish made from crumbled cheese mixed with mint, salt and spices. Delicious when spread on chvishtari or served atop ghomi.
- Ghomi: Soft cornmeal ‘porridge’ with slabs of cheese pressed into the top until they melt slightly. Served as a side, often to replace bread.
- Elarji: Similar to ghomi but with the cheese mixed in. It’s often so stretchy, you can pull a spoon of it all the way to the roof.
- Chvishtari: Cheesy cornmeal formed into a bar and stuffed with a bit of extra cheese before being fried in oil. Crispy and utterly moorish. Note that Diaroni’s version is big enough for two people to share.
- Kharcho: Creamy walnut and tender beef ‘stew’ spiced with adjika. The rich gravy goes perfectly with elarji.
- Kuchmachi: The Megrelian version of this Georgian favourite is extra spicy. Kuchmachi is traditionally made from heart and liver fried with onions, pepper and other aromats.
- Adjika: Widely used in Samegrelo and Abkhazia, adjika is a fragrant and fiery paste used in cooking and as a side. Diaroni’s version is coarse and crunchy from the heavy use of salt. I love to eat it with bread. Be warned that a little bit goes a long way.
- Megrelian khachapuri: The local version of Georgia’s famous ‘cheese bread’ resembles an Imeretian-style pie, but with extra pieces of cheese laid on top and grilled. Regional cheese is used. Think of it as a double-decker khachapuri.
- Dadiani khachapuri (Royal khachapuri): Also local to Samegrelo, this version is similar to Megrelian khachapuri but differs in the way the cheese is arranged on top (it doesn’t cover the crust).
If you only have enough room for one dish at Diaroni, make it kharcho with a side of elarji. Be sure to specify kharcho with walnut – there is also a soup version from the Northern Caucasus, but that isn’t the one you want.
I was a bit concerned when I ordered kharcho on my recent trip: It came out looking a bit pale and watery. But the flavour was even better than I had remembered!
If you want to try Megrelian food in Tbilisi, there are a few specialty eateries on my list of Tbilisi restaurants. I recommend Mapshalia for all things Megrelian, Amra for all things adjika, and Shemomechama for excellent chvishtari.
4. Immerse yourself in Megrelian culture at Folk House
If you’re looking for something truly special to do in Zugdidi, make a booking at Folk House – a museum-studio-restaurant just past the railway station.
Folk House is a one-man project dreamed up by Besiki Tshitanava, a talented Megrelian who has dedicated much of his life to preserving and sharing his ethnic traditions. He himself is a master embroidery, a composer, a renowned polyphonic singer, an architect, a designer and a chef – among other things. His home is a showcase of artefacts, tools and instruments native to the region.
Visitors can join Besiki for a cooking demonstration and a meal. On my visit, we made chvishtari and gebzhalia from scratch using an old grinding stone to whip up the mint (‘the first blender’, as he described it to me).
In his youth, Besiki worked as a chef for the Megrelian-French royal family, hence why he speaks fluent Francais.
When it’s time to eat, Besiki will don his traditional shirt and jump behind the piano to belt out one of his emotional Megrelian ballads. He’s an endless source of information about the area’s heritage and culture; just being in his presence is an unforgettable experience.
Advance bookings for Folk House are essential; ask your guesthouse to call ahead. There’s no sign or street number on the house, but you can’t miss it.
- Opening hours: Lunch or dinner daily (by appointment)
5. Shop for souvenirs at the Weekend Handicraft Market (summer only)
Apart from its mouthwatering cuisine, Samegrelo region is also known for its handicrafts and folk traditions, including woodcarving, masonry and clay pottery.
Many of these skills are on display at Zugdidi’s Handicraft Market, a small bazaar held every weekend during the warmer months in front of the Botanical Garden.
Hobbyists and professional craftspeople alike set up inside a set of small wooden huts at around 6pm. This is a great place to do your souvenir shopping and support local entrepreneurs in the process.
- Opening hours: Saturday & Sunday from 6pm until late (summer only)
6. Visit the master ceramicists at ORKOL Studio
Speaking of talented craftspeople, there is no artist who’s better known or more respected around these parts than sculptor Robert Absandze.
You can find his distinctive red and black-smoked ceramics in shops all around town and on display in guesthouses, restaurants and other venues (including at Casa de Khasia and Folk House).
Along with his wife, Manana Kakulia, Robert runs a workshop-gallery in the family home near the Botanical Gardens.
ORKOL Studio is open to the public and welcomes guests for tours and demonstrations led by Tsira Absandze, who works in the studio alongside her father.
The front of the property houses a fine art gallery, where Robert displays some of the sculptures he’s created over the decades. Out back, there’s a huge working studio where ORKOL produces household ceramics – plates, jugs, cups and saucers, etc. – completely from scratch.
The process starts with making clay from earth gathered in nearby villages and ends with firing the ceramics in Robert’s homemade kiln.
If you’re lucky, he will get behind the wheel for a quick demonstration.
Final stop is the gift shop, where ORKOL’s full collection of beautifully hand-painted ceramics is on offer. We picked up a wine jug and a set of cups when we were there.
- Opening hours: Daily from 10am (or by appointment) – message Tsira on Facebook first
Learn more about ORKOL Studio and Robert’s work here.
7. Walk down Zugdidi’s City Boulevard
The centre of Zugdidi is small and leafy. I recommend taking a stroll all the way down the main street, known as City Boulevard, to Liberty Square and the fountain.
A long park cuts through the middle of the road and is lined with tall trees and park benches. A water channel (almost identical to the one in the Botanical Garden) cuts down the centre.
This whole area was recently restored.
On either side of the road, you’ll see Zugdidi’s strange mix of modern and historical architecture, including socialist apartment blocks alongside traditional Oda houses with fine carved wooden balconies.
Most of Zugdidi’s supermarkets, pharmacies and shops are located on or around the main road.
8. Browse Zugdidi’s mammoth bazaari
Every market in Georgia is worth visiting at least once in my opinion. Zugdidi’s Agrarian Market is one of the largest food markets I’ve seen in Georgia. It feels much bigger than Tbilisi’s Dezerter Bazaar.
Located at the top of the main street near the river, it incorporates undercover and open-air sections. Stalls are mainly dedicated to fresh produce but everything and anything seems to be on offer. Interestingly, there’s a whole section for handmade brooms.
A lot of stalls sell nothing but little containers of fiery red and deep green Adjika.
Set aside a good 30 minutes to wander through the bazaar. Mornings and weekends are best.
- Opening hours: Daily from 8am until late
9. Visit Rukhi Castle for a view of Abkhazia
Rukhi village is located roughly 15-minutes by road from Zugdidi, close to Abkhazia. Even though it’s technically outside the city limits, it’s easy to reach and a worthwhile addition to your Zugdidi itinerary.
Budget around 1.5 hours to get to the fortress, have a look around, and get back.
The main attraction here is Rukhi Castle, a defensive fortification built by Levan Dadiani II in the mid-1600s. You can safely climb up the ivy-clad ruins to get a sweeping view across the Enguri river basin.
The heavily patrolled ‘border zone’ lies just 2.5km away from the fortress. In the far distance, you can just spot the Abkhazian flag flapping in the breeze.
How to get to Rukhi from Zugdidi
Marshrutka vans bound for Rukhi village leave from outside Zugdidi Market, just to the left as you exit the undercover area. The van you want is number 73. It runs in a constant loop, leaving every 20 minutes or so (with a pause in Zugdidi for lunch).
Tell the driver you want to go to Zugdidi Castle (Zugdidi-sikhe) and he’ll drop you at the right place. It’s on the left just after the new hospital – you can’t miss it.
Coming back to Zugdidi, just stand on the road and hail a van travelling the opposite way. Chances are it’ll be the same driver and he’ll keep an eye out for you. We paid 1 GEL, although the official fare is probably less than that.
- Opening hours: 24/7
- Cost: Free
10. Hunt down Zugdidi’s Soviet-era mosaics
If you’re interested in Soviet-era mosaics, you’re going to love Samegrelo. Mainly erected on the facades of schools, factories and bus stops, each one is a work of art.
Our recent road trip around Guria and Samegrelo reignited my love for these mosaics and I ended up tracking down a number of them along our route. There are a couple of notable mosaics in Zugdidi and lots more in Rukhi, roughly 2km from the castle back towards the city.
The first decorates the facade of an old industrial building, now a residential block. You can find it down a side street off the main road, an easy walk from the centre of Zugdidi.
This mosaic wall and fountain at the National Drama Professional Theatre, created by Apolon Kharebava, is also located in the very heart of town, close to Diaroni and ORKOL Studio.
Both locations are pinned on my Zugdidi Map below.
My new favourite mosaic in Georgia is located at the former Rukhi Palace of Culture. As you drive to Rukhi, you’ll see it on the right-hand side of the highway.
I adore the rich colours and the swirled background on this one.
Just opposite, there are two more large-scale mosaics on the local school plus a circular bus stop.
Also pay attention to the apartment buildings in central Zugdidi (near Diaroni) – each one is covered from head to toe in tiny mosaic tiles, hence why they shimmer so brightly in the afternoon light.
11. Find the UAZ graveyard
If you’re interested in Soviet history, you should also pay a visit to the Zugdidi Referral Hospital. There are remnants of another mosaic wall here, but the most interesting feature is a fleet of retired UAZ ambulances that live in the carpark.
There are 15 of these UAZ-452s – AKA Tabletkas or ‘pills’ in Russian – parked near the old hospital.
I was so fascinated by these old Soviet-era vehicles that I wrote a whole post about them. Here is everything you need to know about visiting the UAZ graveyard.
Note that in 2024, the ambulances were moved to a different area of the hospital and are arranged in neat rows now.
12. Stop by the St. Virgin Mary Icon of the Iveron Church
Also known as the All-Holy Mother of God Cathedral of Iveria, Zugdidi’s largest cathedral is considered one of the country’s most valuable examples of modern church architecture. Chief architect Archil Mindiashvili is responsible for the design, which uses hundreds of stone ornaments on the facade.
I mistakenly thought that the church was being restored. It is, in fact, still under construction. The project broke ground in 2009. In 2022, the gold cross was hoisted onto the top of the highest dome – as you can see, the crane used was still in place at the time of my most recent visit.
The church looks almost finished, but it was still closed when I was last in Zugdidi so I didn’t get a chance to view the all-white interior with colourful icons nestled in niches.
Next time I visit, I hope to finally see it sans scaffolding!
13. Meet the local priest reviving Megrelian horse traditions
As with Pankisi’s Kist community, horses have long been an integral part of Megrelian culture. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, horse rearing traditions all but disappeared from this part of Georgia as the racing industry was wiped out.
Just off the highway before you reach Zugdidi, one man is doing his best to revive those traditions. A priest by profession, Presbyter Ekhvaia was gifted his first horse a decade ago and fell in love. He and his two sons, Saba and Mate, sold their apartment and used the funds to build a stable at the back of the church.
As well as training horses for racing, Horse Club Khareba offers riding lessons and free horse therapy to children in the community who suffer from spinal injuries and other disabilities.
Tourists can visit for a tour of the stables with Saba. They can also organise horse treks into the nearby mountains if that’s of interest.
14. Visit abandoned sanatoriums and synagogues in Menji & Sujuna
Zugdidi is a great jumping-off point for exploring the rest of Samegrelo and Svaneti. Before you rushing off to the mountains, take some time to explore the lower part of the region as well.
The best day trip we did from Zugdidi was to Menji and Sujuna, two lesser-known villages in rural Samegrelo. If you like abandoned sanatoriums, synagogues and Sovietized palaces, this might be the perfect side trip for you.
Menji is a much smaller version of Tskaltubo, with three completely abandoned sanatoriums. The main spa has an incredible domed roof with decorative friezes and much of its moulding still intact.
The village of Sujuna near Abasha was once a thriving merchant centre with connections to Poti port via the Tsudgari river.
Here, you can visit the Akaki Khoshtaria House-Museum (pictured), an Italian Renaissance-style residence designed in 1915 by European architects for the Georgian philanthropist. Also in Sujuna, there is a small abandoned synagogue and the beautiful St. George’s Cathedral.
As mentioned, we hired a car and driver for the day to take us from place to place. Your guesthouse will be able to organise this, just be aware that few drivers in Zugdidi speak English.
15. Sunset drinks in Zugdidi on the roof of Garden Palace Hotel
Who knew that Zugdidi has its own rooftop bar!? Sure, it’s only five stories up, but Garden Terrace Restaurant, atop the Garden Palace Hotel, is still the best place in the city for a sundowner.
The balcony offers views over the skate park and Botanical Garden on one side and the apartment blocks in the city centre on the other. On a clear day you can see all the way to the mountains of Svaneti.
Admittedly we only came for the view, but we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of food here. Prices are very reasonable and they have a good range of Western and Georgian meals (craving something different, we both ordered a chicken Schnitzel – I highly recommend it) along with wine, beer and cocktails.
Bonus: Explore more of Samegrelo with these day trips from Zugdidi
More well-known day trips from Zugdidi can be done using marshrutka vans from the main bus station near the railway station or from outside the market (check times and departure points with your guesthouse or at Tourist Information).
Popular day trips from Zugdidi
- Khobi Convent (40 minutes from Zugdidi): A 13-14th century nunnery with stunning stone engravings.
- Enguri Dam (1 hour from Zugdidi): Scenic views and boat trips on the world’s second-highest concrete arch dam. Enguri is located on the way to Mestia.
- Anaklia & Ganmukhuri (45 minutes from Zugdidi): Swim on Samegrelo’s Black Sea beaches and walk across the longest pedestrian bridge in Europe that links the two resorts. In summer, the popular Gem Fest music festival is held here.
- Poti (1.25 hours from Zugdidi): Home of Georgia’s biggest port, Poti or ‘Little Paris’ has a historic lighthouse, heritage architecture and street art, and access to the incredible Kolkheti National Park.
- Tsaishi Cathedral (20 minutes from Zugdidi): Prominent 6th-century church that serves as the seat for Zugdidi’s Diocese.
- Tsalenjikha Cathedral (30 minutes from Zugdidi): Gorgeous 12th-century church with stone arcades and unique Byzantine frescoes.
- Chateau Chakudashi (30 minutes from Zugdidi): The Dadiani’s former summer palace and hunting grounds offers panoramic views to Abkhazia. Princess Veronique, a descendent of the family, lives on the property and rents out rooms via Airbnb.
- Nokalakevi (1.25 hours from Zugdidi): Linked to the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, there’s a large open-air Archaeological Museum plus natural hot springs nearby.
- Martvili (1.5 hours from Zugdidi): For Martvili Canyon, the lesser-known Balda Canyon and the famous Martvili Monastery. Instead of visiting as a day trip, consider spending a night or two at the wonderful Karma Hostel.
Where to eat & drink in Zugdidi: Best Zugdidi restaurants & cafes
Sadly, two of Zugdidi’s top venues, El Barco (a restaurant set up to support Abkhaz IDPs) and Art House (a popular bar-cafe) closed in 2020.
But there are plenty of other places to eat and drink in Zugdidi, including a few recent openings.
Top choice: Diaroni
A local favourite, Diaroni is often namechecked as the best place in Zugdidi to try Megrelian cuisine. There is a large indoor dining room and in summer, an outdoor terrace. Staff are extremely friendly and prices are good.
Refer to #5 on my list of things to do in Zugdidi for recommendations on what to order.
Folk House
Another great place to sample Megrelian delicacies, at Folk House you can also watch and learn how certain dishes are made. Refer to #4 on my list above for more information about planning a visit.
The Host – Mendzel
The Host is a solid choice for both local Megrelian and classic Georgian dishes. The castle-like interior of the restaurant, with stained-glass windows and artefact displays, is pretty impressive.
We enjoyed the Dadiani khachapuri, the cucumber and tomato salad and the khinkali here.
Garden Palace
Come for the city views, stay for the excellent chicken Schnitzel! Refer to #15 on my list of things to do in Zugdidi for more information.
Pancake House
Pancake House is ideal for a quick meal or a sweet after-dinner treat. They specialise in thin crepe-style pancakes lathered with Nutella and topped with seasonal fruit. Waffles and American pancakes are also on the menu, along with savoury dishes including chicken shawarma and pelmeni.
Tamtini Bakery
Having opened in summer 2022, Tamtini is a cute new patisserie-cafe in the centre of town that serves very good barista coffee. The cake cabinet is replete with fruit tarts, tortes, medoki honey cake, and other typical Georgian sweets.
Tea House Alerti
This local joint near the main entrance to the Botanical Garden serves massive platters of khinkali and plates of kubdari along with beer and coffee. Simple, cheap and satisfying.
Ak Dadian
Update: Ak Dadian is temporarily closed.
From the same team as El Barco, Ak Dadian opened in September 2020 in the middle of the Botanical Garden. We were lucky enough to be there for their soft opening during the Zugdidi Contemporary Art Festival.
They serve Italian-style coffee and a range of easy eats including pepperoni pizza, which seems to be a popular choice in Zugdidi. The outdoor balcony seating overlooking the treetops is just lovely.
What to do in Zugdidi in 24 hours: Suggested 1 day Zugdidi itinerary
While I recommend staying for a couple of nights, here’s an example of what you could fit into a day in Zugdidi.
Morning: Walk through the Botanical Garden, stopping for coffee at Tamtini, before arriving at the Palace for a guided tour at 10am.
Walk back through the park, exiting through the east gate then walking 500 metres to ORKOL Studio. Continue a few short blocks to Diaroni and order a Megrelian feast for lunch.
Afternoon: If you made a purchase at ORKOL, drop off your bags at your guesthouse before walking down Zugdidi’s main street, stopping for an afternoon snack along the way. Wander through the produce market, then head out front to pick up a marshrutka to Rukhi. Climb the castle ruins for a view and if it interests you, stop on the way back to view the mosaics located in the town along the main highway.
Evening: Return to Zugdidi for a sunset drink at Garden Terrace. If it’s a weekend, visit the Handicraft Market (you will be able to see if it’s open from the terrace). Finish the day with dinner, local wine and a serenade from Besiki at Folk House.
Zugdidi map
Browse and save the interactive Google Map I made for Zugdidi.
Click here to access the interactive map.
How to get to Zugdidi from Tbilisi
Tbilisi Zugdidi train
The most comfortable way to travel between Tbilisi and Zugdidi is by train. The journey takes 6 hours. You can also use this service to travel to/from Kutaisi (via Rioni Station; 2.5 hours) or Gori (5 hours).
There is currently one day train departing Tbilisi’s Central Railway Station in the morning and arriving in Zugdidi in the early afternoon. The same train departs Zugdidi at around 5pm and arrives in Tbilisi before midnight.
Previously there was also a slower night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, but it has been suspended since 2020 and there are no plans to restart it. There is no longer a night train to Zugdidi.
The day train has second and first class cabins. In my experience, second-class is always uncomfortable (the seats are old and many of them are broken), so I recommend upgrading if you can (the price is still reasonable, under 30 GEL). Note that there is no WIFI on this train, and there are no power outlets either.
Check train times in English here, and buy tickets online via TKT.GE or 12Go.
Zugdidi Railway Station is located 2km from the centre of town (see location here). A taxi to or from the centre should cost around 5-7 GEL.
→ For more tips, see my guide to the Tbilisi Zugdidi train
Tbilisi to Zugdidi marshrutka or bus
There are regular marshrutka minivans between Tbilisi and Zugdidi taking 5.5-6 hours depending on traffic. As of spring 2024 there are new bypasses and tunnels on the highway which might make the journey slightly faster.
Vans depart hourly starting from 9am from Okriba (Didube) Station in Tbilisi and terminate at Zugdidi’s main bus terminal near the railway station. Tickets cost 35 GEL.
For the return leg, marshrutka vans keep to the same schedule, departing every 60-90 minutes from 7am until late. There is a cash desk inside Zugdidi Railway Station where you can buy tickets. Most drivers leave from the parking area in front of the railway or from the small bus station adjacent.
When using marshrutky in Georgia, I strongly advise travelling during daylight hours and arriving at the station at least 30 minutes early to secure a seat. See here for more tips. Double check travel times with your guesthouse in Zugdidi (they may be able to save a seat for you as well).
Alternatively, OmniBus runs large coach buses between Zugdidi and Ortachala station in Tbilisi. These are more comfortable and likely safer. In Zugdidi, coaches arrive/depart from the small bus station near the train.
Travel time is 6 hours. Tickets cost 30 GEL and can be purchased online through OmniBus.
Tbilisi to Zugdidi private transfer
A private car and driver costs around 280 GEL when booked through GoTrip. This is a great option if you have lots of luggage or you want to stop for sightseeing along the way.
How to get to Zugdidi from Kutaisi
The best option is the train from Rioni Station (see above). Otherwise, minivans depart from Kutaisi’s Central Bus Station (near the McDonalds) every 30-60 minutes throughout the day, starting from as early as 6.30am in summer through to 6pm. Tickets cost around 10 GEL and travel time is roughly 2.5 hours.
Alternatively, a private car and driver from Kutaisi to Zugdidi costs around 140 GEL when booked through GoTrip.
How to travel from Zugdidi to Mestia
If you’re spending a few days in Zugdidi and Mestia is your next destination, you’ll find marshrutka departures to Svaneti throughout the summer months.
Services are less frequent in the off-season (roughly October to May), but there should still be at least one van per day, normally leaving around mid-morning or in the afternoon when the train from Tbilisi arrives.
Drivers will either wait at the bus area near Zugdidi Railway Station or at a second bus area near the market and bridge (around this point). They only depart when full, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait. If there’s not enough passengers, you might be waiting a while.
The journey to Mestia takes around 3.5-4 hours with at least one rest stop along the way, usually near Enguri. The fare is approximately 40 GEL.
It’s a windy ride, so have your motion sickness tablets handy if you need them. The new road is in good condition but if you’re a nervous passenger, you might want to consider hiring a private driver for this trip instead.
Marshrutka drivers are notorious for speeding and questionable driving tactics, especially in the mountains. Never travel this road at night.
→ See my detailed Mestia transport guide for alternative options and more travel tips
What to pack for Zugdidi
- Mosquito spray – Zugdidi (and Samegrelo in general) is notorious for mosquitos, especially in summer!
- A refillable water bottle – There are plenty of mountain springs where you can fill up.
- A lightweight scarf – Required for women when entering churches and monasteries. A few in the area don’t supply scarves to borrow.
Georgia essentials
Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend for Georgia. Check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.
FLIGHTS: Search for affordable flights to Tbilisi, Batumi or Kutaisi on Skyscanner.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip with HeyMondo, my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance (get 5% off when you book with my link).
SIM CARD: Magti is my preferred provider, with prices starting from 9 GEL/week for unlimited data. See this guide for all the details about buying a Georgian SIM card.
AIRPORT TRANSFERS: Most flights into Georgia arrive in the early hours. For ease, pre-book a private transfer from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel (from $17) or from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi (from $90) with my partners at GoTrip.ge.
ACCOMMODATION: Booking.com is the most widely used platform in Georgia. Use it to find family guesthouses, private apartments, hostels and hotels around the country.
CAR HIRE: Find a great deal on a rental car in Georgia – use the Local Rent website to book through a local agent (prices start from $20/day).
DAY TRIPS & CITY TOURS: Use Viator or Get Your Guide to browse a range of day trips and city tours. For off-beat programs, I recommend Friendly.ge (use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off). For in-depth day trips to Georgia’s wine regions, I recommend Eat This! Tours (use the promo code wanderlush for 5% off).
PRIVATE TRANSFERS: GoTrip.ge is a terrific service for booking a private professional driver and car for the day. Use it for A-to-B transfers, a customised round-trip itinerary, or a multi-day trip. You can stop wherever you like for as long as you like without the fixed price going up.
NEED SOME HELP?: Need feedback on your itinerary or personalised travel tips? I offer a one-on-one consultation call service for Tbilisi and Georgia. More information and bookings here.
Things to do in Zugdidi travel guide: Save it for later
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- The ultimate Georgia itinerary: Four detailed & custom-designed itineraries
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- The best things to do in Tbilisi: Favourites, hidden gems & local picks
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- 15 best day trips from Tbilisi: With detailed transport instructions
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Emily, thanks so much for the tips! We just came back from Zugdidi and Svaneti and can’t wait to go again. Elco was a fabulous recommendation; the hosts are so kind. I just wanted to share that the cost for the Dadiana Palace is now 12 gel per person and the Botanical Garden is 5 gel. Sadly, although we were there on a Sunday, the Handicraft Market was not open and no one, including the people working the kassa at the Botanical Garden, seemed to know anything about it. Hopefully it shows up later in the summer, or one person (who said she did know it had been there in the past) suggested perhaps they moved it to a different location. Finally, I wanted to share that just 5 minutes from the train station, toward the center on Rustaveli 137 there is a small spice store called Kera – it has a big red sign and you’ll smell it before you see it. It is run by a lovely young man who speaks excellent English and was eager to tell us everything about each spice and how to best use it. Thanks again for all of your helpful information for traveling around Georgia!
Thanks so much, April! So glad you stayed at Elco, they are just lovely! I will check out the spice shop when I’m next in town!
Thanks for these wonderful tips for Sugdidi. We found the botanical garden astonishing and loved to stroll around. In front of the park is a skater area, which was nice and we imagine in summer there will be lots of people sitting and chatting or doing sports. At the back of the palace there is work undergoing to make the side entrance even more attractive with a fountain and olive trees. Diaroni had delicious food but service was not the best unfortunately. In front of the restaurant there was an old man “taking care” of the cars. Although he is not official we gave him some money, which he aprreciated and we had a nice chat. Tamtini bakery is a must. So lovely, next to a fast food shop called “bites” or something – don’t miss the garden entrance. Also: At the boulevard there is a Bank of Georgia branch, where the fee for withdrawals was quite reasonable (3 GEL).
Thanks Emily for your articles, they have been extremely useful during my stay in Georgia.
Thanks to you we had a lot of fun visiting Rukhi, the UAZs, and finding all the mosaics. We also went to Anaklia – you should totally include this in this guide, it was fun and surreal experience. Anaklia is easily reachable from Zugdidi by bus no. 24.
The food at the Host and in Diaroni was wonderful but in the latter we had an unfortunate incident where every item in the bill ~20% pricier than in the menu (this is beside the service charge). After some discussion with the waiter they fixed the “mistake”.
Regarding Zugdidi itself, you may want to link the city bus timetable https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kEK9xsQoeZaZgGajD6AxWvhvNDoSUKCQ/edit?pli=1#gid=1502104626 (I got it by messaging the “Zugdidi Municipal Transport” on fb, the page is updated regularly). The buses go to nearby villages like Rukhi and to the coast as well. Once you have the schedule and know where to find them (two main bus stops are on the two sides of the main boulevard near the Libery Square) they are pretty convenient.
Fantastic tips, thank you Tomasz! I did have a little mention of Anaklia here but I haven’t expanded it yet because despite many plans to go, I still haven’t been!! Bumping it to the top of my list now.
I am really disappointed to hear that about Diaroni. I have had two similar experiences at restaurants in Kutaisi this season. Just terrible. Please leave this feedback on Google Maps too, maybe they will get their act together if they are publicly called out.
I only see the 12pm bus, but the coach 12am bus seems to be no longer operating. I asked the company and they told me they’ve got just one bus per day (the midday one).
Thanks Laro for the update. It is probably due to Rikoti Pass being closed to vehicles at night. They might reintroduce the midnight service when the road reopens.
Hi! Thank you for valuable info. Do you know if the Omnibus coach bus is no longer operating? I cannot see that option on their webpage.
Thanks!
Hi Laro, I still see the bus on the website – make sure you choose Tbilisi Ortachala as your departure station and it should appear. Safe travels!
Hi Emily! Thank you so much for all the recommendations. We are eating in Diaroni right now and it is delicious! We got the dishes you suggested and this is the best food we have had in Georgia so far. We are here for 3 weeks and your entire blog has helped us so much!
-Roosmari & family from Estonia 🇪🇪
I’m very happy to hear that, Roosmari! Thank you so much for reading!
Hey Emily, thank you for the recommendations – we loved the food at Diaroni!
We can add a good Café in Zugdidi: Tamtini Bakery, serves good cappuccinos and small delicious tartes, also has a calm and lovely yard where you can enjoy your food sitting in the sun. It’s very central, close to the boulevard.
And a guesthouse recommendation as well: Elco. A family’s home, old house with nice garden, very clean rooms with high ceiling and nice old wooden floors. Close to the train station.
Thanks so much for the recommendations Antonia! I am heading to Zugdidi soon and will definitely check these out. Take care and safe travels!
Hi Emily, thank you so much for putting together all the info about Georgia. I’ve been planning around my trip for October visit mostly based on this. Really informative and helpful.
Question – is it possible to travel from Zugdidi directly to Ushguli by private taxi (presume I could get a suitable car that is up for the ride to Ushguli) or I should stop at Mestia for overnight and change car anyways? I just thought I’d go to Ushguli for a night stay, then back to Mestia for 2 consecutive nights instead of doing 1night Mestia, 1night Ushguli and then 1night Mestia again.
Hi LP, great to hear that!
There are no marshrutka vans from Zugdidi to Ushguli that I know of – but you could definitely ask your guesthouse in Ushguli if they would organise a transfer for you. That’s the only thing I can think of. Most people transit through Mestia. If you were able to get up to Mestia by early afternoon you could probably find a taxi driver to take you to Ushguli on the same day.
Hi Emily
Just had time in zugdidi and decided to head to diaroni resturant to eat. The waiter was SOOOOOO rude that we had to leave. Never have i experienced such rudeness. Always worry about going to places that have become over popularised as this always seem to happen. Was bad enough for me to bother to write a complaint! Thank goodness our experience at the host was great.
Thanks for the great site
Really sorry to hear that Verena – unfortunately it’s fairly common in Georgia, as you have probably found. This is the busy season and perhaps he/she was having a bad day. I hope you can give them another try, the food is really great! Glad to hear you enjoyed The Host anyway. Safe travels!
Hello! Thank you so much for your article, it was very helpful for my trip!
There seems to be an error link in the section “AIRBNB: IN FRONT OF THE BOTANICAL GARDEN”, “this private self-contained apartment”.
Sorry JK, the error links means the property is no longer listed. They are also on Booking under the same name if you want to try there!
thanks so much for sharing all your thoroughly researched info…we’re excited to be planning a trip. Please let us know how to contact the folk house in Zugdidi. We won’t be staying in town so we cannot follow your suggestion of asking our guesthouse to book for us. Thanks!
Hi Jon – the phone number for Folk House is on Google: +995 577 74 34 14.
Have a wonderful time in Zugdidi!
Dear Emily. Thank you for valuable info on every corners of Georgia. As for Zugdidi- Mestia marshrutka, as of May 9th (date of writing this), there is no over night train from Tbilisi, and hence no pick up at railway station in early morning. I hope it will resume as summer season starts. Only bus to Mestia starts at Guluda street near the market. If someone comes down from railway station, turn to left just before the bridge and go some 200 meters and you will find small sign ‘Mestia’ on the right of the street. If someone comes up from the city side, Go over the bridge at local market and turn right. I went there around 9 am and finally departed at 11:30. Not always the case like this, though.
Thanks very much Naohiro for the marshrutka info! The night train has been off since COVID started and I heard there are no plans to renew it unfortunately.
Dear Emily, I am in Zugdidi right now and I am so happy to be here and thank you for your suggestions. I have a question: where can I find exactly the retired UAZ ambulances? Didi madloba 😀
Hi Francesca, great to hear that! They live out near the old hospital, close to the hospital wall mosaic pinned on the map.