Four options for travelling from Tbilisi to Mestia – prices and times, pros and cons, and my personal recommendations.
Mestia is the main town and transport hub of Upper Svaneti, located around 460 kilometres from Tbilisi via the established road through Zugdidi.
It is a must-see in Georgia, but getting there takes some planning. By road, the journey takes at least 8-9 hours – and while there are direct marshrutka vans from Tbilisi, I highly recommend breaking the journey either in Kutaisi or Zugdidi.
There is also the option to fly from Natakhtari Airport (just outside Tbilisi, near Mtskheta), although limited schedules and weather-related cancellations mean you should always have a backup plan.
In this guide, I’ll compare all the ways to travel from Tbilisi to Mestia, including the direct marshrutka, train and bus connections via Zugdidi, private transfers, flights, and self-driving.
I’ve also included shorter sections on travelling to Mestia from Kutaisi and Batumi.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Georgia travel resources I recommend
Planning a trip to Georgia? Here are 5 resources I use & recommend.
- Mandatory insurance: Cover.ge. Get a budget-friendly health & accident insurance policy that meets Georgia’s new entry requirements. Use wanderlush for 5% off.
- Private transfers in Georgia: GoTrip.ge. Find a professional, English-speaking driver. Prices are locked in when you book & you can stop wherever you want.
- Hiring a car in Georgia: Local Rent. Save money when you rent directly from a local agent. Pick-up & drop-off are available from any address.
- Tbilisi tours & day trips: Friendly.ge. Knowledgeable guides, safe drivers & creative itineraries. Use wanderlush for 10% off.
- Accommodations: Booking.com. The biggest selection of properties in Georgia, including guesthouses in rural areas.
Tbilisi to Mestia transport: Quick overview
|
Approx. price & travel time |
Best for |
Notes |
|
|
Direct marshrutka |
60 GEL; 9-10 hours |
Budget travellers |
Cheapest direct option, but a very long day on the road; limited comfort & luggage space |
|
Train + marshrutka via Zugdidi |
From 50 GEL; 9-10 hours |
Most comfortable public transport option |
Comfortable first leg, but requires a change in Zugdidi |
|
Coach + marshrutka via Zugdidi |
65-75 GEL; 10+ hours |
Travellers who want an overnight option |
Less comfortable & involves travelling after dark |
|
From 650 GEL/car; 8 hours |
Groups, families & travellers with luggage |
Fully flexible door-to-door with sightseeing stops possible, but most expensive option |
|
|
Flight |
90 GEL; <1 hour flight (allow 3-4 hours total) |
Light travellers with flexible plans |
Fastest option, but limited seats & weather-related cancellations can happen at short notice |
MY RECOMMENDATION
If you have time, travelling via Zugdidi is a much more comfortable way to reach Svaneti by public transport. You can take the morning train and continue to Mestia that afternoon, or spend a night in Zugdidi and travel up the mountain the following morning. If you need to make the journey directly in one day, I would choose a private transfer over the marshrutka.
Option 1: Direct marshrutka from Tbilisi to Mestia
60 GEL per person | 9-10 hours travel time | 2 departures daily
The cheapest way to travel directly from Tbilisi to Mestia is by marshrutka minivan. It is also the least comfortable option: You will spend most of the day on the road, and luggage space is limited.
This is a long and tiring journey. Several new bypasses opened on the Rikoti Highway in 2024-2025, reducing travel times between Tbilisi and Western Georgia, but you should still expect to spend at least 9-10 hours on the road.
If your itinerary allows, I recommend breaking up the journey into two stages rather than travelling all the way to Mestia in one day. Zugdidi is the most practical stopover, with easy onward connections to Svaneti, while Kutaisi and Martvili are good alternatives if you want to add in some sightseeing.
A popular option is to take the train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, stay overnight, then continue to Mestia by marshrutka the following morning.
All direct Tbilisi-Mestia marshrutkas travel via Zugdidi and Jvari. They do not use the seasonal route via Lentekhi, the Zagari Pass and Ushguli.
WHERE DOES THE TBILISI MESTIA MARSHRUTKA LEAVE FROM?
There are currently two departure points in Tbilisi: Station Square (Tbilisi Central Railway Station), and Navtlughi/Samgori. This is why you may see conflicting information online. Both are correct.
Tbilisi to Mestia marshrutka from Station Square
A morning marshrutka to Mestia departs from the car park outside Tbilisi Central Railway Station (Station Square). Look for the sign reading ‘Mestia – 7am’ in front of the lower entrance to the station building.
For information or to reserve a seat, contact the driver, Saba, on +995 599 24 35 27.
Tbilisi to Mestia marshrutka from Samgori
Another option is the morning van from Samgori. This van is also scheduled to depart at 7am, but it leaves from Navtlughi Intercity Bus Terminal near Samgori Metro on the opposite side of town. See the location here on Google Maps.
The bus is a bit tricky to find. First, exit the Samgori Metro Station in the direction of Ketevan Dedofali Avenue. You should see this avtosadguri ‘bus station’ sign pointing the way:
Once you’re above ground, walk out to main avenue and turn right. Walk a few more steps and you will come to a small waiting area with marshrutka vans parked out front (not the first large carpark, but the second smaller one) with the blue sign:
There is a cash desk on the right which may or may not be open (if not, pay the driver directly).
Make sure you arrive at least 60 minutes early to secure a seat.
You can reach the English-speaking driver on +995 595 700 892 or via his Facebook Page.
Option 2: Tbilisi to Mestia via Zugdidi
From 56-75 GEL per person | 9-10 hours travel time | Multiple departures daily
Travelling via Zugdidi gives you more flexibility than relying on a direct Tbilisi-Mestia marshrutka. Zugdidi is the main transport hub for Svaneti, with marshrutkas and shared taxis continuing to Mestia for most of the year, weather permitting.
You can travel from Tbilisi to Zugdidi by train, coach bus or marshrutka, then continue to Mestia the same afternoon. Alternatively, spend the night in Zugdidi and take a morning van to Mestia the following day.
Tbilisi to Zugdidi by train
Unfortunately, the popular night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi was cancelled back in 2020. For now, there is just one train departing Tbilisi in the morning at 8.15am and arriving in Zugdidi at 1.36pm (5 hours 21 minutes total travel time).
Passenger trains depart from Tbilisi Central Railway Station (see the location here). To get there, take the metro to Station Square or book a Bolt taxi.
Train tickets to Zugdidi start from 16 GEL for second class and can be purchased up to three weeks in advance via TKT.GE or 12GoAsia.
Be aware that this is an older train – there is no WIFI on board, and no dining cart. I highly recommend upgrading to first class (28 GEL) as the seats are more comfortable and every row has a power outlet.
→ See more tips in my Tbilisi Zugdidi Train Travel Guide
In Zugdidi, trains terminate at the main railway station (see the location here). The Bolt app works in Zugdidi, and if you are staying the night, you can use it to book a taxi to your hotel (expect to pay 5-10 GEL to go anywhere in the city).
During the summer season, you will have no problem continuing to Mestia the same day. Marshrutka vans and shared taxis are there to meet the afternoon train as it arrives in Zugdidi. More details below.
Luggage storage is available at Zugdidi Railway Station (inside the shop) for 5 GEL/bag.
Tbilisi to Zugdidi by coach or marshrutka
Rail is my preferred way to travel to Zugdidi, but if train tickets are sold out or you prefer to travel by road, you can take either a coach bus or marshrutka van.
OmniBus operates two coach buses to Zugdidi each day, departing Tbilisi at 12pm midday and 12am midnight. Metro Georgia also operates an overnight coach from Didube, departing at 11pm.
Travel time is around 6 hours, and the fare is 35 GEL. Tickets can be reserved online via the websites linked above or on TKT.GE. Coach buses are considerably more comfortable than marshrutka vans, especially for a journey of this length.
I generally do not recommend travelling overnight by road in Georgia. However, if you are on a tight timeline, the overnight coach can be a useful substitute for the old Tbilisi-Zugdidi night train: You arrive in Zugdidi early in the morning, and can continue straight on to Mestia from there (more below).
Alternatively, marshrutka vans to Zugdidi depart from Didube Bus Station throughout the day, roughly between 8am and 7pm. The fare is 35 GEL, and travel time is 5-6 hours.
Zugdidi to Mestia: Connecting to a marshrutka
Afternoon vans from Zugdidi Railway Station
In the afternoon, drivers going to Mestia gather at Zugdidi Railway Station to meet passengers arriving on the Tbilisi train.
When you get off the train, cross the tracks and turn left, walking all the way to the end of the platform. Go down the steps to street level and you should see at least one Mestia-bound van waiting there – usually three or four vans in high season.
Here is a picture of a Mestia van waiting for train passengers outside the railway station:
The fare to Mestia is 40 GEL, and the journey takes around 4 hours. Vans usually make at least one rest stop, often near Enguri Dam. In Mestia, services terminate near Seti Square in the centre of town (see the location here).
These shared vans operate most consistently from spring through late autumn. In deep winter, roughly January to March, services can become much less reliable. Drivers may switch to 4WD Delica vans in snowy conditions, or there may be no shared departure at all.
→ See this guide to visiting Mestia in winter for seasonal tips
Midday vans from Zugdidi riverside
If you spent the night in Zugdidi and you don’t want to wait around for the afternoon bus, there are also vans that leave for Mestia earlier in the day.
These vans do not leave from the Railway Station – instead they depart from a small bus stand on the riverside (see the location here). From the centre, walk past the main market, cross the river, then take the first right. You will see a sign for ’Mestia’ on the tree, and a row of waiting vans. There is a public toilet nearby, and you can buy food and water at the market before you leave.
When I recently checked, vans were scheduled to depart at 12pm midday, and the fare was 40 GEL. They can take longer to fill up, so be prepared for a wait.
Here is a picture of the vans in the carpark:
Should you spend a night in Zugdidi?
Because of the long distance and tiring nature of the trip, it’s a very good idea to break up your journey by spending a night in Zugdidi. It’s a great little city with a few notable landmarks (including the Dadiani Palace and Botanical Garden), and a terrific regional food scene.
If you need a place to stay, Casa de Khasia is a gorgeous boutique guesthouse that’s run by a local couple who are active in advancing the rights of IDPs from Abkhazia and promoting Zugdidi as a tourist destination. Rooms are large and beautifully furnished, and the outdoor common spaces are delightful.
→ Consult my Zugdidi City Guide for more suggestions
Option 3: Private transfer from Tbilisi to Mestia
From 650 GEL per car | 8 hours travel time | 24/7 on demand
Private transfer is the easiest (and most comfortable) option if you want to go directly to Mestia from Tbilisi by road. GoTrip.ge is my preferred service for transfers – drivers and cars are vetted for safety, it is a 24/7, flexible door-to-door service, and best of all you can make as many stops as you want along the way.
A direct transfer booked through GoTrip starts from 650 GEL per car. Travel time is around 8 hours without stops. When you book online, the price is locked in and won’t change.
Alternatively, you can build a day trip itinerary and do some sightseeing along the way. For example this itinerary I created with stops in Zugdidi and Enguri costs about the same as a direct transfer.
Option 4: Flying from Tbilisi to Mestia
90 GEL per person | < 1 hour flight time | 4-6 flights per week
Flights from Tbilisi to Mestia are available with Vanilla Sky, a small Georgian airline that operates various domestic routes including to Batumi and Racha. Prop planes to Mestia Airport run throughout the year with a reduced schedule in winter.
Vanilla Sky is the only operator on the market and is notorious for two reasons: Firstly, their online booking system is difficult and it can be hard to find and purchase tickets. In summer, tickets sell out quickly.
Secondly, flights often get cancelled at short notice. This airline uses visual flight rules, so if the weather is bad or there is poor visibility in either Tbilisi or Mestia, the flight will be off. The final decision is made by the captain one hour prior to take-off. If you do decide to fly, always have a backup plan in case things go wrong on the day.
Prices start from 90 GEL for an adult, and travel time is under an hour. It’s easier to search schedules and ticket availability on this new website, Get Flights. Note that planes take off from Natakhtari Airfield, 30 minutes north of Tbilisi. Vanilla Sky offers a free shuttle from the city centre. The luggage allowance is capped at 15 kilograms per person.
Mestia is set to receive a new airport terminal building in the near future.
Driving from Tbilisi to Mestia
If you are comfortable driving in Georgia, self-driving gives you by far the most flexibility. There are now two roads to Svaneti, although only one is available year-round.
→ See our full Svaneti Road Trip Itinerary – including plenty of cool road stops
Route A: Tbilisi-Zugdidi-Mestia
The standard and most-used route approaches Mestia from the west via Zugdidi and Jvari, following the Enguri Valley into Upper Svaneti.
The Zugdidi-Jvari-Mestia road is fully sealed, although landslides have damaged sections around Dizi and Shdkhiri in the past. Repair work is ongoing and conditions have improved considerably in recent years. As of 2026, the road is generally in good condition.
This is the only year-round road route to Mestia. It can close temporarily after heavy snowfall or landslides, but because Svaneti has two ski resorts, the road is normally cleared throughout winter. Winter tires are mandatory from December to March.
Route B: Tbilisi-Kutaisi-Lentekhi-Ushguli-Mestia
In summer, there is a much more scenic alternative. From Tbilisi, drive west to Kutaisi, then continue through Tskaltubo, Tsageri and Lentekhi before climbing over the Zagari Pass to Ushguli. From Ushguli, the road continues west to Mestia.
The Lentekhi-Ushguli road has improved hugely and is now mostly sealed, with only a few short gravel sections remaining. The road between Ushguli and Mestia is also sealed.
This route is strictly seasonal. The Zagari Pass closes because of snow, ice and avalanche risk, normally sometime in autumn, and does not reopen until late spring or early summer. In 2026, the road reopened in the first weeks of June.
Road conditions & rental cars
Whichever route you choose, roads in Svaneti are winding, steep and narrow in places. Some sections are reduced to a single lane, and weather can change conditions quickly. Start as early as possible, drive carefully, and avoid driving these mountain roads after dark.
Heavy rain, snow or landslides can cause temporary closures, so build some flexibility into your itinerary. Before setting out, you can check conditions with the GeoRoad hotline on +995 322 31 30 76 or ask your accommodation in Mestia or Ushguli for the latest local information.
If you are renting a car, check the company’s terms carefully. Some rental agencies still prohibit driving on the Mestia-Ushguli and Lentekhi-Ushguli roads.
My preferred rental platform, Local Rent, allows you to filter for cars that are permitted on this route. Tick the ‘Lentekhi Route Travel’ option when searching.
Getting from Kutaisi to Mestia
From Kutaisi, you can travel to Mestia by direct marshrutka, shared transfer or private car. In summer, you also have the option of approaching Svaneti from the east via Lentekhi and Ushguli.
The Kutaisi-Mestia marshrutka is a little more complicated than it looks on paper, especially when it comes to departure times and tickets, so I have covered it in detail in a separate guide.
→ See my complete Kutaisi to Mestia transport guide for schedules, prices, booking instructions and a comparison of every option
Getting from Batumi to Mestia
Batumi is another good starting point for Svaneti, with direct marshrutkas, shared transfers and private transfers available in season. Travel time is around 5.5-6.5 hours. This is the route I took on my first trip to Georgia back in 2017!
In summer, a direct marshrutka to Mestia departs Batumi at around 3pm from the bus area opposite the Argo Cable Car. The journey takes roughly 6 hours and costs about 50 GEL. You can call the driver on +995 591 81 04 21 to reserve a seat.
If you want to leave in the morning, the most reliable option is to travel via Zugdidi. Vans to Zugdidi depart from the Batumi Intercity Bus Station from around 9-10am, with fares at approximately 18-25 GEL and a travel time of 2.5-3 hours. From Zugdidi, transfer to a Mestia-bound marshrutka or shared taxi as described above.
For a more comfortable journey, Budget Georgia operates a shared transfer from Batumi to Mestia daily from May through October. The bus departs Europe Square at 7.30am and arrives in Mestia at around 2pm, with a total travel time of approximately 6.5 hours. Tickets cost 80 GEL per person.
→ Book a shared transfer online via Viator
A private transfer from Batumi to Mestia starts from around 420 GEL per car with GoTrip. Direct travel time is approximately 5.5 hours, and you can add sightseeing stops along the way.
Getting back to Tbilisi from Mestia
Navigating the ‘bus stations’ in Mestia can be tricky in high season. If you want something more predictable, consider travelling via Zugdidi or booking a private transfer instead.
Mestia bus station & buying tickets
Mestia’s small bus station is right in the town centre (see the location here), with several different ticket offices in the surrounding buildings. According to recent reviews, the sellers on the southern side of the road tend to be the most helpful.
The confusing part is that multiple offices sell tickets for the same destinations, sometimes at different prices. Travellers occasionally report problems when trying to pre-purchase tickets: The expected van does not arrive, there are not enough seats, or they are told to change in Zugdidi unexpectedly.
My advice is to check the schedule the day before, then arrive 40-60 minutes early on the morning of travel. If possible, ask your guesthouse to call the driver or bus station for you the day before. Tickets can sell out in summer.
If you buy a paper ticket, take a photo of it before boarding. Some drivers collect tickets when you get on the van.
Direct marshrutka from Mestia to Tbilisi
Direct marshrutka vans to Tbilisi normally depart in the morning. The main departure is at 8am, and during the summer high season there may be an additional departure at 12pm midday.
Vans to Zugdidi, Kutaisi and Batumi also depart at 8am, so the area can be busy. Arrive early to make sure you get the correct van and a seat.
Fares and journey times are roughly the same as for the journey up to Mestia.
Mestia to Tbilisi via Zugdidi
If you do not want to rely on the direct Tbilisi van, travelling via Zugdidi gives you more options.
You could take the 8am marshrutka from Mestia to Zugdidi, spend a day in the city, then connect with the 6pm Zugdidi-Tbilisi train, which reaches Tbilisi at 11.27pm.
Private transfer from Mestia
If you want a straightforward door-to-door journey, I recommend booking a private transfer with GoTrip.
Where to stop on the way to Svaneti
The regions between Kutaisi and the Black Sea Coast are my favourite parts of Georgia. There is SO MUCH to see in Western Georgia – if you have the time.
Here are a couple of easy stopovers between Zugdidi and Mestia. For more ideas, see my guides to Guria Region and The Monument Route in Samegrelo Region.
‘Stalin Waterfall’
Did you know that Stalin once stopped at a small waterfall on his way from Zugdidi to Mestia to enjoy a picnic lunch and a refreshing swim? Just kidding. This waterfall (like many other ‘infamous Stalin sites’ in Georgia) has no connection to the dictator – but you will find a Stalin bust sitting on a concrete platform here amongst the cafe tables. Climb up the stairs behind Kubdari House to find it.
Enguri Dam
One of world’s highest concrete arch dams, Enguri is located on the road between Zugdidi and Mestia. The hydro project supplies energy to both Georgia and Abkhazia.
Enguri has always been a popular place to break the journey to Mestia. Tours of the dam launched in 2021, and it is now a ticketed site, with short guided tours starting from 35 GEL per person.
Sisa Tura Ethno Village
Sisa Tura is a family run village that aims to give tourists a taste of Mingrelian culture and rural life. The three-acre complex has a collection of wooden oda houses, beautiful nature, and a kitchen that offers traditional meals.
Sisa Tura is open from late spring through to autumn. Advance bookings are essential – contact Marika on Facebook to organise your visit.
Zugdidi
As mentioned, Zugdidi is a great small city with a few things to see and do, and some truly wonderful Mingrelian restaurants (Diaroni is my favourite). If you have time, I highly recommend spending a night here on the way to Svaneti.
Casa de Khasia is a cosy guesthouse with wonderful hosts. Find more things to do in and around Zugdidi in this guide.
Martvili
Also in Samegrelo region at the foot of the mountains, Martvili is a great place for hiking, waterfalls and canyons. As well as the popular Martvili Canyon, there are plenty of alternative canyons and rivers to explore. Martvili Monastery is famous all over Georgia for its frescoes and very much worth a visit.
Martvili is a great place to relax in nature on the way up or down from Mestia. I recommend staying at Karma Hostel.
Where to stay in Mestia
Budget-friendly guesthouse: Manoni’s Guesthouse is one of the longest-running in Mestia, and the family really know how to treat their guests. Rooms are very comfortable, especially the private doubles with ensuite. Meals are served in a cosy dining room. They can organise anything and everything on your behalf, including shared vans to Ushguli. I stayed here in 2017.
Mid-range hotel: Family Hotel Kala has comfy rooms and a buffet breakfast. When we stayed here last year, we found the staff were very helpful. The location on the edge of Mestia is convenient if you are driving. Onsite parking is available.
Boutique hotel: Hotel Lahili is a 5-minute walk from the Ethnography Museum and cable car, with modern and stylish rooms, comfortable common spaces and a generous breakfast. We recently stayed here and loved it.
Cabin: If you’re looking for something more secluded, Bude Mestia Cottages offer gorgeous self-contained A-frame cabins set in the forest 3km from the main square.
Are you planning to travel from Tbilisi to Svaneti some time soon? Do you have questions, or maybe an update for other travellers? Please leave any new information you have below – it’s much appreciated!
You might also be interested in…
- The ultimate Georgia itinerary: Four detailed & custom-designed itineraries
- Georgia Travel Guide: All of my 200+ posts plus my top travel tips
- Georgia travel tips: 25 essential things to know before you go
- Places to visit in Georgia: 50+ unique & underrated destinations around the country
- The best things to do in Tbilisi: Favourites, hidden gems & local picks
- 35+ best restaurants in Tbilisi: Where to eat Georgian food
- 15 best day trips from Tbilisi: With detailed transport instructions
- The best time to visit Georgia: Month-by-month guide to weather, festivals & events
Hi Emily, lovely webpage you build, it gave me a lot of inspiration and already pre-organized GoTrips route by you, thanks!
I have a question here for the opposite route, I need to go from Mestia → Tblisi and I was wondering if this is better done A.) with a GoTrip car from Mestia to Zugdidi and from there with a train or OmniBus to Tblisi or B. directly a GoTrip car for the whole route.
Do you have any guidance here? Thanks in advance Jakob
Hi Jakob, thank you!
That really depends on your budget – personally I would opt to take the train from Zugdidi to Mestia if you don’t need to stop anywhere along the way. Otherwise it’s mostly just highway driving.
You can’t normally book a GoTrip originating in Mestia, so you would need to book Zugdidi-Mestia-Zugdidi and just explain to the driver that you are starting from Mestia.
Hi Emily, thank you so much for all your recommendations and detailed blog, it is helping us a lot. Quick one… what do you know about the current conditions of the real Lentekhi- Ushguli – Mestia? I could not find updated information in Georoad. We don’t mind repeting the way from Kutaisi and not doing the loop, since the other road is not in the best conditions? what do you think? should we still do the loop, or you think is good to do this road? thank you very very much.
Hi Cristina, it was supposed to open today (May 20) but I think it will be delayed this year because of the late snow.
I am updating this guide every day: https://wander-lush.org/ushguli-to-kutaisi-zagari-pass/
For now I think you should plan to go through Zugdidi. Even if the road does open in the next few days, it might not be safe for travel for a while yet.
Hi, I have questions regarding getting to Mestia from Kutaisi/somewhere on the back sea coast in Late December/Early January. We intend to rent a proper 4×4 with snow chains (Suabru Forester) and want to drive up to Mestia for new year’s and skiing for 3-4 days. Could you please comment on how safe this is? Are the roads passable in winter? Are there avalanche risk? Any hope of rescue? Is this a feasible trip or is it best to leave Svanetti for the summer?
Hi Stash, with winter tires (chains are rarely used in Georgia) you should be fine, provided you heed any advice around weather. We drove to Mestia and Tetnuli last February for skiing and it was an incredible trip. Please see this post: https://wander-lush.org/mestia-in-winter/
Hi Emily, thanks so much for all your content on Georgia – this has proved invaluable.
We are travelling from Mestia to Tbilisi tomorrow but the Lentekhi Road option is not appearing on Google maps – this has been the case since I first started researching last month. Do you know if the Lentekhi Road is open? (You mentioned it disappears from Google Maps over the winter).
We travelled here via Zugdidi. Is the Lentekhi road quicker – and do you know how long it takes to get to Tbilisi?
Thanks so much,
Claudia
Hi Claudia – one of my readers was able to get Google to reinstate the route. It’s working fine for me now, can you check again? There was snow overnight in Ushguli so please check conditions locally before you drive this route.
Hi! Would it be possible to drive the Svaneti loop (Mestia – Ushguli – Lentekhi – Kutaisi) with a Toyota Prius? And could we also go to Racha and follow your multi-day plan?
As long as road conditions are OK and it’s not raining or snowing, then yes. The roads are sealed now.
Hi Emily,
First off, I really appreciate the thoughtfulness and details on your website. It has been very helpful resource for my upcoming trip to Georgia in September. I have considered your recommendation for Eat This! food/wine tour and am looking forward to it. 🙂
I will be doing a 5 day hike in the Mestia/Ushguli region and contemplated the different transfer options between Tbilisi and Mestia. My hiking tour agency provided a private car transfer option for 640 Euro (total, return trip) which is more expensive than the prices on GoTrip. I know you have mentioned that GoTrip drivers are reliable but I was wondering if you can recommend any female drivers? Ultimately, safety is my biggest concern, considering the length of the drive both ways, and the fact that I am a solo female traveller.
I considered the self-drive option but I think this is too much for the start and end of a self-hiking trip. I would rather experience the beauty of the drive to/from Mestia than stress myself out.
I also considered the other travel options (bus, flight, train) but I think they will be too complicated for my trip planning.
Hope you (or other travellers) can provide some insight on my questions.
Thanks!
Hi Mikaela,
Thanks for your comment.
I often use GoTrip on my solo trips here (unfortunately I can’t drive), and I have a few specific drivers that I know and can recommend, if that would help. I don’t think there are female drivers on the platform.
If you have time to break up the journey with a night in Kutaisi/Zugdidi, that is a much nicer way to do it.
Happy to suggest a few names if you want to send me a quick email!
Hi Mikaela, I’m also a solo female traveller and would love to have a friend. I’m going there in mid-September
Hey Emily! First things first, thank you so much for your continued updating of these resources, let alone creating them in the first place. They’ve been as much an inspiration for my trip next week as they’ve been a tool for figuring it out!
I’ll be in Kutaisi next Monday, and need to be in Tbilisi by 3pm Friday. I’m considering doing the BudgetGeorgia transfer to Mestia, returning to Kutaisi on Thursday before taking the Friday morning Rioni train to Tbilisi. As far as I can tell that’s the only way to eek a trip to Svaneti out of my time. Would you agree, and is 72 hours in Mestia and surrounds worth it? I’d love to get one or two day hikes in, but nowhere else closer to Kutaisi seems to come close!
Hi Luke, I definitely think it’s worth it – Svaneti is an incredible area. Upper Racha is really the only other option near Kutaisi, but you need your own car.
Hi Emily,
Firstly, thank you for providing a comphrehensive, up-to-date guide to Georgia. My husband & I are planning on hiking the Mestia-Ushguli trek 14th-16th October. It looks like we will need to get back to Mestia for onward travel to Kutaisi, unless you are aware of any shared taxi’s from Ushguli to Kutaisi via Lentekhi now?
Also, do you have any insights on arriving at Tbilisi airport & clearing immigration, is it usually reasonably quick or a slow process? We are due to arrive at 5:30am & ideally want to catch the 8:30am train to Zugdidi. Is it realistic to think we can do this?
Hi Deb, thank you!
There are no regular van services on the Lentekhi Road yet that I am aware of. There may well be taxis departing that day, although it is the off-season, so there won’t be many tourists around. But there might be locals travelling. You had best ask your guesthouse in Ushguli. I would put feelers out now, and see if they can get you a quote for a private taxi as well. I guess you have organised for your luggage to be sent to Ushguli?
As for clearing immigration, it really depends on how many flights are arriving. It is a small airport, and it can get congested if there are multiple arrivals at once. You could check SkyScanner to get an approximate idea. In theory it’s possible to make the train, as there is no need to arrive at the railway station more than 10 minutes ahead of departure. The airport bus goes all the way to Station Square, but I would recommend taking a taxi (booked through Bolt, or pre-arranged on GoTrip).
I hope this helps!
Thanks, Emily. Atm, we are heading back to Mestia after the hike & have arranged to leave our luggage at the accommodation there. We just wondered if there might be an option to head to Kutaisi directly from Ushguli to save a day. While we have 2 weeks in Georgia, we are fast finding out that isn’t enough time to see everything we’d like to, especially as we keep finding more things to do (thanks to your website)!
Thanks for the airport insights. We were going to pre-book a taxi to avoid wasting time & will check out skyscanner to see how busy the airport may be.
Sounds like a good plan, Deb! The hike will be wonderful I’m sure. The drive through Lentekhi is beautiful and a nice time-saver, if you can make it work!
Hi Emily,
(Self driving car question)
Thank you for all the information that you provide. It helps us very much with our trip planning.
I’m still not sure about the road from Kutaisi to Ushguli => Mestia => Mestia => Tblisi.
We plan to do it by a 4WD rental car in the last week of August.
On your Blog I found a reference saying that there is a good way from Kutaisi to Ushguli, and also some reference about Ushguli to Mestia. Do you have updated info on these roads?
Also on the way back from Mestia to Tbilisi, would it be better to do it back through Ushguly => Kutaisi or from Mestia =>Zugdidi?
Hi Meir, I drove Ushguli-Kutaisi yesterday. Have a look at my Instagram Story Highlight for Svaneti – it has the latest info. In summary, the road is in great shape. Ushguli-Mestia is a paved road also.
Hi Emily, thanks so much for this treasure trove of information!
I’m interested in spending 3 nights in Mestia at some point between 1-10 September and will be travelling from Tbilisi. I’ve looked at the transport options you mention above.
If I could be confident the Tbilisi-Zugdidi train was reliable, I’d be willing to take that and get a marshrutka from Zugdidi. As I don’t really fancy taking a marshrutka all the way from Tbilisi to Mestia, I looked at the new coach you mentioned, you said departure days/times were yet to be confirmed for 2025.
I sent a message to the number you gave, asking for departure days and times in September in both directions and the departure point in Tbilisi, and got this reply back:
გამარჯობა ოთხშᲐბᲐთს და პარასკევ 7 სᲐᲐთზე გᲐდის სᲐᲛგორიდან
I didn’t know how to copy it directly from WhatsApp, so found a Georgian alphabet online, compared the letters and painstakingly copied and pasted each and every one until I’d copied out the whole message on my laptop (oh, the joys of choosing to visit a country with a different alphabet!), then bunged it into Google Translate and got this translation, which may or may not be accurate:
Hello Wednesday and Friday at 7:00 PM from Gadis Sogori
Bless whoever it was for trying to help, but this doesn’t answer my question about both directions, and 7 PM seems like a strange time to be setting off on a 10-hour journey… What’s Gadis Sogori, a bus station? I managed to copy and paste the Georgian for “thank you very much” and sent it back to them…
Can you or anyone else give me the latest on the Tbilisi-Mestia coach, if it’s still running? The train + marshrutka via Zugdidi and direct marshrutka options sound like a choice between the devil and the deep blue sea! I’m doing my best to learn the alphabet and can speak and read/write some Russian, but I’m still scared of getting stranded or lost somewhere if a train breaks down or a bus doesn’t turn up.
Hi Peter – he means 7am Wednesday and Saturday from Samgori (Tbilisi). Samgori is another name for the bus station. So the driver was confirming the information written here.
Oh goodness, that is a tricky way to go about translating! In the future you can use ChatGPT for things like that.
The Zugdidi train is reliable and if there were to be any issue, many Georgians including railway staff speak English so you would never be left stranded!
Many thanks indeed for your helpful reply. Yes, I did go the ridiculously long way round in trying to understand the message – a bit like travelling from Tbilisi to Mestia by marshrutka!
That’s very reassuring about the train, so I’ll seriously consider doing it that way. I’m also looking at other options including a 2-day Svanetia tour with Budget Georgia from Batumi, although ideally I’d like to spend at least 3 nights in Mestia. Whatever I decide, I feel a lot less worried now.
I’ve been exploring your website over the past couple of days and my goodness, “very helpful” doesn’t come close! A magnificent resource full of invaluable information and travel ideas that would be so difficult if not impossible to find in English elsewhere. You deserve awards for it! Many thanks again.
Thank you so much, Peter!
You might consider starting with the Budget tour and requesting the guide leave you in Mestia at the end. That way you could have a night or two to yourself, revisit anything you liked, explore further afar, try a day hike. This might be a nice way to do it! When it comes time to leave, Budget also runs transfers back to Batumi and to Kutaisi, or you can pick up a minivan from Mestia very easily.
Road conditions from Kutaisi to Mestia via Ushguli was pretty good on Friday 27th June. Most of the sealed sections were fine, and the gravel sections also not bad. A few rocky sections but still passable, even for non 4WD vehicles if you take it slow. Some small sections they are working on are down tonone lane. However today, Sunday 29th it has been raining most of the day here in Mestia. We are doing the reverse trip tomorrow, so will let you know how it is then
Thanks, Liz! Sounds like the road is about the same as it was last autumn. Safe drive and keep us posted!
Hello Emily,
Hope you’re well. Your website has have been my constant North Star whenever I prepare my family’s itinerary to Georgia – am super grateful indeed! We wish to go back to Georgia this year and would be our 3rd time. Would be entering through Kutaisi. Was thinking of staying overnight to Kutaisi then off to Mestia for 2 nights – my children want snow, but not necessarily skiing – but was thinking of using bus/van? Then go back to Kutaisi for 2 nights then off to Tbilisi using the train. Question is – is my plan doable or the trip would be exhausting? Do you have other alternative to Mestia, please?
Thanks so very much in advance.
Liz x
Hi Liz, thank you! Honestly it would be tough for the kids going all that way by bus in winter. I would recommend going to Racha instead or even Borjomi/Bakuriani.
Hi Emily,
We’re hoping to travel from Mestia to Zugdidi late June-early July 2025 (having travelled from Turkey to Batumi, Batumi to Zugdidi, Zugdidi to Mestia with short stays at these places along the way). Will there be shared taxis available in the morning in Mestia so we could then get from Zugdidi to Kutaisi by train all in one day?
Thank you so much for your amazing site! You have given us so much inspiration and information on what to see and how to do some independent travel in Georgia before our guided tour to Kazbegi and Tusheti National Parks.
Cheers,
Hilary & Danny
Tasmania, Australia
Hi Hilary and Danny, great to hear that! Yes it should definitely be possible to get into Zugdidi in time for the evening train. You would do well to ask your guesthouse in Mestia to find a shared taxi for you – there should be options with locals travelling down for the day to the market etc. Wishing you a great trip!
Hallo we plan to drive (SUV) from Zugdidi to Mestia in mid-August in the morning. Is the road that difficult and/or exposed? We drove in the italian alps. Tks
Hi Valentina, if you are an experienced driver and have an SUV then you should be fine. It’s a good idea to check road conditions before you set off. This week for example there was a landslip and the road was closed for a day. Updates can be found on this page: https://www.facebook.com/georoad.ge
Safe travels and enjoy Svaneti!
Hi
First, a huge thanks for your posts. They have been a great help for planning our trip to Georgia this summer. We were wondering if you have any experiences or recommendations concerning hiking around Mestia. We have 4 days in Mestia and are strongly considering to do the hike from Mestia to Ushguli but we wondered if you could recommend any day hikes from Mestia instead? Or maybe you could tell us which one is best; the hike to Ushguli or day trips around Mestia?
Kind regards
Emil
Hi Emil, the Mestia-Ushguli hike is a very popular option but there are plenty of short hikes you can do around Mestia, Mazeri and Ushguli too. I recommend you check out Caucasus Trekking for trail descriptions. Have a wonderful time!
Hi Emily, As always huge thanks for your painstaking work in putting all this info together.
We have just arrived at Mestia and asked at our hotel about a transfer to Ushguli. They say it will be 250GEL each way (because we are staying there overnight) – we are two people. This is double the prices you quote here so I just wanted to check if you think it’s possible the prices have gone up this much or if we should make enquiries elsewhere (and if so, where)? They also said there is only one public bus that comes back from Ushguli per day and it leaves around 3-4pm, which will be too late for us as we have a transfer back to Kutaisi from Mestia at 4pm. So it seems it’s not possible just to flag down a bus as you suggest. Does this seem correct to you? Thanks in advance for any advice!
Hi Andrea – that sounds like the price for a private transfer. You can ask if they can find you a seat in a shared van, or else go to the main square and inquire with the drivers there.
Hi Emily! Thanks for all the useful information, much appreciated. We are going from Tblisi to Mestia in September and we’re thinking of taking the train and then a marshrutka from Zugdidi. I am quite worried about road safety as I expect the roads between Zugdidi and Mestia (like steep cliffs and blind corners with cliffs etc.) I tried looking for private cars on Gotrip but nothing comes up for Zugdidi-Mestia. Whats’s your experience with marshrutka’s on this particular route? Are there any alternatives besides Gotrip and haggling a taxi?
Hi Liza – you could do a shared transfer with Budget Georgia from Kutaisi. It is still affordable but with more of an emphasis on road safety.
Hi Emily! You’re the best! Is it possible to get to Svaneti from Racha? Or we still have to go through Zugdidi?
Well if it can stop raining!
Only by foot! Otherwise you need to go around. There is another road through Lentekhi, but it is not open at this time of year.
Thanks a lot for the answer! Ever since the night train got cancelled it became so complicated to visit Svaneti from Tbilisi. Svans should really pressure Georgian Railways to resume that route!
The night bus is always there, or the day train + spend an afternoon in Zugdidi (preferable in any case if you ask me!). I don’t think the night train will be making a comeback.
Hi Emily,
We have decided to do a private transfer from Tbilisi to Mestia. Do you have suggestions for quick stops along the way including lunch recommendations?
Hi Janki, great! With the new highway and bypasses, the first part of your trip will be a lot more efficient. You can stop in Gori/Uplistsikhe, Zestafoni, Kutaisi – but this will involve getting off the highway. So you might just want to head straight through to Zugdidi. I would recommend stopping there for lunch at Diaroni and a walk in the garden, and at Enguri Dam.
HI, I think that “overnight” train goes from Zugdidi to Tbilisi – departute time 17:25, just checked at Georgia Railway website….
It is not an overnight train though, just a regular day train that arrives in Tbilisi at midnight. Previously there was a proper overnight train with sleeper cabins – it has ceased operations.
Hello,
It seems that the night bus from Tbilisi to Zugdidi doesn’t exist anymore, am i right?
I looked in omnibusexpress.
We will arrive TBS Airport at 1:30pm. Will be easy to find marshrutkas from Tbilisi to Zugdidi between 3pm and 4pm on fridays (mid september)?
Thanks
Hi Marcos, yes they discontinued the night bus for now because of the roadworks on the highway (the main highway is closed to traffic from 9pm until 6am). Because of this you will be cutting it fine… I would consider spending a night in Tbilisi and taking a train/bus the following morning.
Sure,
We will be in Tbilisi in 16th September. So we are going to take the morning train to Zugdidi. Will it be easy to find marshrutka to Mestia when the train arrives, in that time of the year? Or at least will be taxi ? Thanks
Hi Marcos – yes, there will be a van waiting at the train station in the spot described.
Arriving in the Tbilisi airport at 1:30pm and take a bus/taxi to Didube to catch a marshrutka to Zugdidi, it’s not a good idea? I would get between 3 and 4pm right? So i can to in 2 days.
Hi Marcos, as I mentioned the Rikoti Pass is closed to traffic from 9pm. Best to wait until the next morning.
Hi Emily,
I’m reading your articles while planning for my trip to Georgia. The information is extremely practical. I have one question: if I take the van/shared taxi from Ushguli to Mestia in the morning, will I still be able to catch any transport back to Zugdidi the same day? Many thanks for your help!
Hi Zhaokui, it depends a bit on the time of year. In summer high season there might be an afternoon van to Zugdidi that could catch.
Hi! I have a similar question: I’ll go to Georgia in late September/early October. After sleeping in Ushguli I want to go back to Mestia in the very morning in order to take a marshrutka to Kutaisi… Do you think there will be more options after 8am?
Thanks for your information!
Hi Laro, yes there should be! Or you might have to transit through Zugdidi which is very straightforward.
Hi Emily,
Once again, thank you for your blog, it helped me a lot when I was planing my trip and when I was tehre. I am back from my two amazing weeks in the Caucasus and since I just came back, I thought I could share with you fresh information, if you want to update this page.
The marshrutka from Kutaisi to Mestia departs at 10am (only once a day), from behind the McDonald’s. It costs 40 GEL as you said. It seems enough to arrive at 8h30 in low season. The ticket office is right behind the marshrutka (if you want I have a picture of the time table, including hours to Tbilisi and Batumi, and of the location of the marshrutka).
When I was there (I arrived 7h30) we were only four people (a couple of tourists and a local woman), so they offered to take us by car for 50 GEL.
Regarding the come back trip, there are one direct marshrutka from Mestia to Tbilisi departing at 8am (it seems better to by the ticket at least the day before from the ticket office in the center of Mestia). I was there in april and there was this marshrutka, so it’s not only during high season.
You don’t need to accept the comment, it was only to inform you and help the future travelers that will use your amazing blog!
Keep doing this amazing job,
Felipe
Thank you Felipe for these updates, your input is extremely helpful! I have updated the guide for other travellers. I will pop down tomorrow to get some additional photos.
Hope you had a wonderful journey and will be back to Georgia again soon!
Hi Emily, thank you for such detailed info on how to get to Mestia-Ushguli.
I’ve booked my Vanillasky tickets to Mestia on 23rd April, and i should be reaching Mestia around 10.30am. I guess I’ll miss the morning Minivans to Ushguli. Will i be able to find other minivans/buses to Ushguli around 11am?
Plus, im staying in Ushguli for the night and returning to Mestia next morning. Would you know if i can find minivans/buses in the morning hours ?
I’m looking to travel on budget, hence the vans.
Thanks Emily,
Cheers!
Hi Rahul – I am sure there will be plenty of drivers waiting to meet passengers arriving at the airport. To get back to Mestia you can pick up a van at the bridge as I describe. Have a fun and safe trip!
Hello Emily, thank you very much for tall the amazing posts, they are being the main source of inspiration to my trip to the Caucasus. However, I am struggling to find information about a direct bus from Mestia to Tbilisi. It seems they run in the summer, but do you know if I can take this bus on April? Otherwise, I imagine I will have to go through Zugdidi. Thanks, Felipe
Hi Felipe – they might be running in April but I’m really not sure. The safer option is to go through Zugdidi. It’s a good idea to break up the journey anyway.
Hi Emily , great article – will you feel safe using a private transfer with gotrip.ge as a single female traveller from Tbilisi Airport to Mestia ? Am thinking of this option for early July 2023. Can an English speaking driver be requested?
Thanks
Hi Shez – I often use GoTrip when I’m travelling alone, including for long distance trips. I have always felt comfortable, and there’s no reason I wouldn’t suggest it for solo females. Just be sure to pick a driver with good reviews.
You can filter drivers by language and check if they speak English before you book.
Safe travels!
Hello Dimitri, I am interested in using Chero for Mestia-Ushguli. If you can supply his phone number it would be appreciated.
We found a very good driver in Mestia. He drove us around Mestia to Chalaati Glacier, to the Heshkili huts where there is a astonishing view on the mountain around and to Ushguli.
I can surely recommend Chero, he drives always safe, even in the worst parts of the Ushguli “road”. His car is top clean inside and outside and moreover it’s a funny guy learning us some georgian sentences and stopping for the best pictures. If you agree, I can post his phone number
Sure thing Dimitri, I’m sure that would be helpful for other travellers! And for me too!
Hi Dimitri,
Can you share driver’s number? we are planning to hire a car but this part we can not drive and we need driver with car.
I strongly recommend OmniBus to get from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. This is by far the most convenient option as it leaves exactly on time (either at lunch time or at midnight) and you will be in Zugdidi after 6hrs. We took the 17:25 train back from Zugdidi to Tbilisi a few days later and it was one of the worst experiences during our 3 week trip through Georgia. The train stopped every few minutes, had a breakdown for more than 1 hour and without any A/C it got so unbelievably hot inside that people complained so much that the train staff had to open the doors during the train ride to let fresh air in… I strongly suggest avoiding trains at all cost (except for the new Swiss train from Tbilisi to Batumi which has A/C).
Sorry to hear that, Patrick! Actually I ended up on the Zugdidi train a few weeks ago and it was very uncomfortable. It’s one of the older trains unfortunately. The Stadler is by far the best, but the Poti train is also quite good. They are all a bit different and it takes some getting used to. Hopefully they will upgrade the Zugdidi one soon. OmniBus is indeed a good option in the meantime.
Hope you still enjoyed your time in Mestia. Cheers!
Hi Emily – thank you for all the great info and recommendations. We are planning a self drive trip in early October. We arrived early morning 6am into Tbilisi and plan to leave after getting a rental car (4WD), trying to figure out what is the best location to stay between Zugdidi and Mestia. We eventually want to go to Ushguli, but not sure where to break up the trip for the stay. I saw you recommended the new road in the clockwise direction.
Hi David – I recommend you stay a night in Kutaisi then drive to Ushguli first.