An Honest Guide to Driving in Georgia: Road Conditions, Driving Culture & Car Rental Options

Your one-stop guide to driving in Georgia – with up-to-date information on road conditions, safety, and realistic options for renting a car in Tbilisi.

When I first travelled to Georgia, I would never have dreamed of putting the words Georgia and road trip in the same sentence. I’m an experienced driver and a big fan of road trips – but the driving style here genuinely intimidated me.

When I finally did get around to renting a car, that first road trip changed my outlook completely. Five years and many thousands of kilometres later, I rented a car in Georgia for the last time… Not because I’d had enough, but because I decided to buy my own wheels!

A woman stands beside a car on a mountain road while driving in Georgia.
Driving in Georgia – and feeling pretty chuffed with myself for navigating the mountain roads in Racha.

The truth is, driving in Georgia isn’t as bad as it looks. But it is different, and it’s definitely not for everyone.

When done right, it’s easily the best way to see the country. But it can be stressful or even risky if you’re not fully prepared.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through what driving in Georgia is really like: road conditions, driving culture, seasonal closures, and safety. I’ll also explain your different options – renting a car, hiring a driver, or using a specialist off-road service – and when each one makes the most sense.


Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.


Lebaiskari Tower, an abandoned defensive tower on the side of the road in Khevsureti, Georgia.
One of my favourite drives in Georgia, Khevsureti region.

Should you drive in Georgia? The short answer…

First things first: Do you actually need to hire a car in Georgia?

The short answer is no – renting a car is not mandatory. Georgia has a workable shared transport network, and you can cover a lot of ground using marshrutka vans and trains. If it’s your first time visiting Georgia, you can quite easily stick to an itinerary like this one that uses shared transport and the ocassional transfer.

That said, having your own car can be a massive advantage.

Yes, you should drive in Georgia if…

  • You want to explore rural areas, villages or mountain regions where public transport is infrequent or non-existent
  • You’re visiting Georgia for the second time (or for a longer period) and want to get off the main tourist routes
  • You value flexibility and early starts, and want the freedom to stop wherever you like
  • You’re confident driving in changeable road and weather conditions

Self-driving opens up a lot more of the country. Before buying my own car, I rented exclusively through Local Rent. It offers better value than international brands, clearer insurance options, and is far better suited to the realities of driving here.

Check current prices and availability with Local Rent here.

No, you should not drive in Georgia if…

  • You’re only visiting Tbilisi or sticking to major cities and towns
  • You’re travelling on a short first-time trip and want to keep logistics simple
  • You’re uncomfortable with assertive driving and/or unfamiliar road conditions

In these situations, renting a car can cause unnecessary stress. There are plenty of other options for classic routes such as Tbilisi–Kazbegi, Tbilisi–Sighnaghi and Tbilisi–Batumi.

Consider a driver instead, if…

  • You want to cover long distances in a short time
  • You’d rather enjoy the scenery than have to focus on the road
  • You’re travelling in winter, when roads are unforgiving
  • You’re venturing to very remote regions with challenging roads where an experienced driver is needed (more info on specific routes below)
  • You’re happy to pay a bit more for a low-stress, door-to-door experience

For this, I recommend GoTrip. It’s not a tour – you set your route and stops, and a local driver takes you where you want to go. Prices are fixed in advance, and it’s often better value than people expect, especially for one-way journeys.

See how GoTrip works and price your route here.

A mountain landscape in Tsalka, Georgia.
Driving on peaceful roads in Javakheti.

Driving in Georgia: What to expect before you decide

Driving in Georgia can be incredible – or completely unnecessary – depending on your route, the season, and your confidence level.

Before you rent a car, here’s an idea of what driving is actually like on the ground.

Quick facts about driving in Georgia

Here are the key things you need to know about driving in Georgia.

  • Drive on the right. Both left- and right-hand-drive cars are present, but you should rent a left-hand-drive vehicle for better visibility and safer overtaking.
  • Seat belts are compulsory for the driver and front passenger. There’s no legal requirement for back-seat passengers, but it’s still a good idea to buckle up.
  • Speed limits vary by area. The national limits for passenger cars are 60 km/h in towns and villages, 90 km/h on rural roads, and 110 km/h on highways/motorways, unless otherwise indicated. Built-up area boundaries aren’t always obvious – look out for the big white signs (example below) that indicate when you have entered a village and therefore need to slow down.
  • Child car seats are required. Children under 7 must use a child safety seat. Request one when booking your rental car.
  • Traffic lights in Georgia flash amber before they turn red. There is no right turn on red, and a green arrow means you may only turn in that direction.
  • Road signs follow European standards. Georgia is a party to the Vienna Convention on Road Signs and Signals, so traffic lights and signage will feel familiar. Signs are usually bilingual or written in Latin characters.
A sign reads Chognari in English and Georgian.
A village sign in Georgia. When you see this, you need to reduce your speed.
  • Drink driving laws are strict. The legal blood alcohol limit in Georgia is 0.03%.
  • Using a mobile phone while driving is illegal. If you rely on your phone for navigation, bring a hands-free dashboard mount with you from home (or buy one when you arrive).
  • Police enforcement is widespread. There’s a heavy police presence on Georgian roads, with speed and red-light cameras common nationwide. Fines are issued automatically – see below for how to check and pay one.
  • Driving culture can feel aggressive. Driving styles are assertive and road rules aren’t always followed consistently, which is something to factor in when deciding whether you want to drive in Georgia.
A road sign in the country of Georgia.
Typical road signs in Georgia.
  • There are no toll roads in Georgia. All roads and tunnels are currently free to use.
  • Most roads are sealed, but quality varies. Major highways and many secondary roads are paved, while village roads range from newly sealed to very rough backroads. Use the map below to flag any potentially problematic routes before setting off.
  • Some mountain roads close seasonally. Many high-altitude roads are fully closed in winter (typically late October to May), depending on the location.
  • Animals on the road are common. Livestock, especially cows, frequently wander onto rural and city roads, and are often reluctant to move. Throw your hazard lights on, and use your horn if needed.
  • Use hazard lights proactively. Hazard lights are used to warn other drivers of obstructions (including animals). Keep your finger ready – when I drive, my husband’s unofficial job is hazard-light duty.
A winter road in Georgia with a single car against a backdrop of volcanic mountains.
Driving in Georgia in winter is not for the faint of heart!

The driving culture in Georgia

Road conditions in Georgia are often better than people expect – but the driving style is wilder than most visitors are prepared for.

Georgian drivers tend to be impatient and somewhat aggressive – and while this is a generalisation, it’s based on personal experience, and a feeling that most people I speak to seem to share.

There’s a heavy traffic police presence, but road rules are applied inconsistently in practice, and many drivers simply ignore them.

I could tell you to brush up on Georgian road rules before you get behind the wheel – but there is really no point. The safest approach is defensive driving: Take your time, stay hyper-aware of other vehicles, avoid sudden movements, and keep out of other people’s way whenever possible.

If you can, set out early in the morning (before 9am), when the roads are quieter. Avoid night driving, and try not to drive in major cities like Tbilisi or Batumi, where traffic is densest and most chaotic. Quieter secondary and rural roads are generally far more manageable.

Key quirks to be mindful of

A few lessons I’ve learned the hard way:

  • People love overtaking at speed, especially on single-lane roads. This includes crossing solid lines (technically illegal). Often a car will come up the middle or appear on your right, creating a third lane where there isn’t supposed to be one. Cars constantly drift across the road without indicating. Check your mirrors constantly, and be aware of people overtaking you from every angle.
  • It is not uncommon to see a car hurtling towards you at high speed. I will never get used to this! If you see a car coming head-on while overtaking, slow down, and move as far right as you safely can to give them space to squeeze back in.
  • Right of way (including on roundabouts) goes to the biggest vehicle. Roundabouts in particular have very little logic. Take it slowly, and proceed cautiously.
  • No one shoulder-checks. Be extremely careful around slip roads, merges, driveways and curbside pull-outs. Never assume another driver has seen you because they probably haven’t!
  • Forget the rule of seconds. Cars drive bumper to bumper. If you leave a safe gap, someone will probably cut in from behind and fill it. Do your best to maintain distance.
  • Drivers hate stopping. Slowing down seems to be viewed as a sign of weakness. Drivers will swerve aggressively around parked cars or obstacles rather than brake. Sudden stops are risky – I’ve been rear-ended once because of this.
A high mountain road winds its way through the green summer mountains in Svaneti, Georgia, as seen from the Zagari Pass on the road from Ushguli to Kutaisi.
The road from Ushguli to Lentekhi.

Road conditions in Georgia

Huge investments have been made in Georgia’s road infrastructure in recent years. Most highways and tourist routes are sealed, smooth, and manageable in a standard sedan.

That said, roads can be narrow, line markings are sometimes faded or missing, and village roads range from newly paved to very rough. Conditions change dramatically by season – especially in the mountains.

For more details about which roads to approach with caution and which routes are best avoided in winter, see the detailed ’Road conditions in Georgia’ section below.

Seasonal considerations

From late spring to autumn (roughly May to October), most major roads and tourist routes are open and in good condition, and self-driving is generally straightforward outside the cities.

In winter, conditions change significantly. Snow, ice and poor visibility are common in the mountains, and some high-altitude roads are fully closed for months at a time. Even roads that remain open can close temporarily due to rockslides or avalanches, sometimes with little notice.

Spring and early summer bring a different set of challenges. Heavy rain can cause flooding, landslides and washouts, particularly in mountainous and remote regions.

If you’re travelling outside peak summer – or planning to visit high mountain areas – it’s worth factoring seasonality into your decision. In many cases, hiring a local driver who knows the conditions can be the safer and more relaxed option.

Cows on a mountain road in Georgia, as seen from the passenger seat of a car.
Cows on the road in Georgia.

Requirements for driving in Georgia

Age limits & rental requirements

Car rental requirements in Georgia vary by company, but most have minimum age and driving experience rules.

In general, you can expect:

  • A minimum age of 21-23 years
  • 1-3 years of driving experience, depending on the vehicle and insurer

Some rental companies also impose an upper age limit (often around 70), which is linked to insurance policies rather than Georgian law.

Local Rent is more flexible than most platforms and is able to offer cars to younger drivers (18+) and older drivers, with no fixed upper age limit. Insurance conditions can differ, however, so if you’re under 23 or over 70, make sure you use the driver’s age filter to find suitable cars and check the insurance terms carefully.

A valid credit card in the driver’s name is sometimes required for deposits and insurance holds, although requirements vary by provider.

Driving in Georgia with a foreign license – do you need an international Driving Permit?

Most car rental companies in Georgia do not require an International Driving Permit (IDP) if your driving licence is written in Latin characters (for example, EU, UK, US, Australian licences).

However, there are a few important caveats:

  • If your licence is not in Latin characters, you’ll need either an IDP or an official translation to rent a car and drive legally.
  • In the event of an accident or police check, officers may ask for an IDP or a notarised Georgian translation of your licence, even if the rental company didn’t request one.

Foreign driving licences are generally valid for up to one year from the time of entry for visitors.

If you plan to spend a longer period driving in Georgia, it’s sensible to have your licence translated and notarised. This typically costs around 30-50 GEL.

Documents to carry while driving

When driving in Georgia, you should have the following with you at all times:

  • Your driver’s licence
  • Your passport
  • The vehicle’s car passport (registration document), which is kept in the car

The car passport is a standard document in Georgia and may be requested during police checks. See the FAQ below for more details.

A road sign in Georgia reads happy journey.
Happy journey!

Three ways to travel by car in Georgia

There are three ways to travel by car in Georgia. These are the three services I have personally used and recommend, depending on the type of trip:

  1. Local Rent – self-drive car rental, best value for most trips
  2. GoTrip – private car with a driver, no self-drive required
  3. Martyna z Gruzji – robust vehicles for remote regions and restricted roads

Option 1: Renting a car & driving yourself – best for most trips

If you’re a repeat visitor to Georgia or planning to explore rural areas, valleys and small villages, renting a car can make a huge difference to how much you see and how flexible your trip feels.

If you’re comfortable driving and don’t need serious off-road capability, this is the most economical and versatile option for most itineraries.

When self-drive car rental in Georgia is worth it

Renting a car in Georgia makes the most sense if:

You’re travelling beyond the main cities. So much of what makes Georgia Georgia lies away from highways and hubs. Having a car gives you easy access to villages, rural homestays, monasteries, viewpoints and roadside stops that public transport simply can’t reach.

You’re staying for more than a few days. For longer trips or looping itineraries, self-drive quickly becomes more efficient and better value than stitching together vans, trains and transfers.

You want complete control over your schedule. Marshrutka vans don’t always follow a fixed timetable. Driving yourself isn’t necessarily faster – but it lets you start early, stop often, and make the most of each day.

You’re travelling as a pair or small group. Once you split the cost, car rental is often comparable to (or cheaper than) multiple bus tickets and transfers.

You want a greater sense of control. Road safety is a real issue in Georgia, and I’ve had more than my fair share of white-knuckle marshrutka rides. While you still need to stay alert when driving here, self-driving gives you a welcome sense of control over speed, stops and decision-making.

… And then there are the small things: no anxiety about when (or whether) the driver will stop for a bathroom break, and no regret over missed photo opportunities. For me, those alone often make renting a car in Georgia worthwhile.

A long road with trees on either side and the sun peeking through at sunrise.
Early morning on the road to Racha.

Why I use & recommend Local Rent

International rental agencies such as Hertz and Europcar do operate in Georgia (including at Tbilisi Airport), but they’re not always the best option.

For Georgia specifically, Local Rent is the platform I use and recommend.

I’ve rented cars through Local Rent more than a dozen times in Tbilisi and Kutaisi, and I’ve also used the platform for road trips elsewhere in Europe. It’s an aggregator, but instead of global chains, it connects you directly with local agents and small rental companies.

The result is better prices, more flexible terms, and vehicles that are better suited to Georgian roads.

Local Rent currently lists 2,000+ cars in Georgia, with average daily prices around 40-45 USD, and off-season deals closer to 30 USD per day.

Key advantages of using Local Rent include:

  • No International Driving Permit required (for Latin-character licences)
  • No credit card or cash deposit
  • Free cancellation up to 24 hours before pickup
  • Comprehensive insurance included on many listings
  • Unlimited mileage and no extra driver fees
  • Pick-up and drop-off at any address
  • Reasonable one-way fees

The trade-off is that cars are usually older models and may show some cosmetic wear. The process can also feel less formal than with international brands – sometimes there isn’t even a paper contract.

That said, Local Rent acts as a middleman, with its own customer support and dispute resolution, which adds an extra layer of security.

One of the biggest bonuses is delivery: having the car brought to you on the outskirts of Tbilisi means you can start your road trip without driving through city traffic – a huge plus.

A group of goats in Georgia.
A Georgian traffic jam.

How the Local Rent process works

To secure the best choice of vehicles and prices, I recommend booking 4-6 weeks in advance. In peak summer season, booking even earlier is wise.

Local Rent offers pick-up and drop-off in 16+ cities across Georgia, with the largest selection of cars in Tbilisi, followed by Kutaisi and Batumi.

The process is straightforward:

  1. Enter your dates and pick-up location
  2. Apply filters (full insurance, 4WD, driver’s age, etc.)
  3. Browse real listings with actual photos of the car
  4. Add any extras (child seat, ski rack)

Winter tires are mandatory on some mountain roads from 1 December to 1 March, so make sure these are included if you’re travelling in winter.

If you plan to drive on the Mestia-Ushguli-Lentekhi Road in Svaneti, make sure you tick the box – Local Rent lifted its ban on this road in 2025, but not all agents allow you to drive it.

Depending on the agent, you may be asked to pay a small refundable online deposit. The balance is typically paid in cash (GEL) when you collect the car.

Search for a rental car in Georgia via Local Rent here.

Costs, deposits & insurance

Car insurance is not mandatory in Georgia – but if you’re renting, I strongly recommend choosing a car with full coverage or Super CDW.

This limits your liability and protects you from large out-of-pocket costs in the event of damage. Many Local Rent listings include comprehensive insurance at no extra charge, which is another reason the platform works so well here.

Always read the insurance terms carefully and clarify excess amounts, exclusions, and reporting requirements in case of accident.

Winter landscapes and snow near Tbilisi in the beautiful Sabaduri Forest.
Driving in Sabaduri Forest in winter.

What kind of car do you need in Georgia?

For most routes in Georgia, a standard sedan is perfectly adequate. Major roads, highways and routes to popular attractions are sealed and manageable (more info below).

That said, road conditions can be unpredictable. Potholes, rough village roads and roadworks are common, and in those cases a 4WD or higher-clearance vehicle offers more freedom and peace of mind.

During my first four years in Georgia, I almost always rented a Prius – and managed to get a flat tire every single time I drove. When it came time to buy my own car, a 4WD felt essential.

Whatever you choose, look for a car that has good undercarriage clearance, is mid-sized or larger (for safety), and has the driver’s seat on the left-hand side.

The vast majority of rental cars in Georgia are automatic, so if you don’t drive manual, availability isn’t an issue.


Option 2: GoTrip – zero-stress alternative to driving yourself

A lot of people end up choosing GoTrip after realising they don’t actually want to drive in Georgia. With this service, you still get all the freedom of a car (including unlimited stops), but without the burden of having to navigate the roads yourself.

GoTrip is also a great way to avoid the two big pain points of travelling around Georgia without a car: marshrutkas (cramped, unpredictable), and private taxis (negotiated on the spot, leaving room for travellers to be overcharged).

When hiring a driver makes more sense than renting a car

GoTrip is the better option if you want the flexibility of a road trip, but you’d rather not self-drive – especially if any of the below apply:

  • Winter travel (icy roads, short days, and rapidly changing mountain conditions)
  • Long distances where you don’t want to be the one doing the driving
  • Mountain routes where you’d much rather sit back and enjoy the scenery
  • Solo travellers (self-driving is trickier without a navigator/extra pair of eyes)
  • Families or larger groups who want comfort, luggage space, and fewer logistics
  • Short trips with tight timelines where you can’t afford delays or wrong turns
  • Hiking or skiing trips where a parked car would sit unused all day

It’s also a smart workaround if you’re nervous about road safety. GoTrip drivers are professionals and the platform has a zero-tolerance policy to unsafe driving. In my experience, they drive far more calmly than your average driver.

Ananuri Fortress, a medieval castle and church complex on the road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.
Ananuri Fortress on the Georgian Military Highway.

What GoTrip is & how it works

GoTrip is essentially a website for booking private intercity transfers with a driver. Think of it as a long-distance Uber, designed specifically for travellers in Georgia.

Here’s how it works:

  1. You enter your route online (A → B), or build a multi-stop itinerary
  2. You see a fixed price upfront for the whole car (not per person)
  3. You can view driver/car details and choose a driver with strong reviews
  4. You pay the driver directly in cash at the end of the trip

You can book one-way, round-trip, or multi-day transfer where the same driver stays with you for 2+ days.

As a passenger, you get all the perks of a road trip – photo stops, flexibility, door-to-door convenience – without having to negotiate prices or manage a rental.

→ If you want the full step-by-step process (plus my personal experience using it), read my detailed GoTrip guide here.

Etiquette & tips for using GoTrip

A few quick tips to make things smooth:

  • Add all your stops at the time of booking if you can. If something doesn’t appear in the Trip Planner, put it in the notes.
  • Choose a driver with lots of positive reviews.
  • Share your WhatsApp number at booking so the driver can contact you (especially if you’re arriving late or booking from abroad).
  • Stops are flexible. You can pull over for photos, snacks, bathrooms, etc. Just communicate clearly.
  • Tipping isn’t mandatory, but it’s appreciated. I usually tip around 10% if I’m happy, and on a long day together I’ll offer to buy lunch.

You don’t need to worry about the driver’s return trip. Their costs (including returning home, and accommodation for multi-day trips) are folded into the quoted price.

Book a GoTrip driver on the website here.

A white van on a mountain highway in Georgia in winter snow.
The Military Highway in winter.

Option 3: Off-road car rental for Georgia’s remote regions

This option is for travellers planning to drive beyond Georgia’s main highways and sealed tourist routes into areas where road conditions are variable, and most standard rental contracts no longer apply.

Many of Georgia’s most alluring destinations – Tusheti, Vashlovani, Juta, Shatili, and remote parts of Svaneti – are accessed via unsealed mountain roads. These routes are not only challenging to drive, but are also explicitly banned by most mainstream rental companies, even if you hire an SUV or 4WD.

If your itinerary includes these areas, a specialised off-road vehicle from a provider that allows access to restricted roads is essential. In these cases, local knowledge and the right vehicle matter far more than comfort or price.

When you genuinely need a 4WD in Georgia

It’s important to separate wanting a tougher car from needing a vehicle that’s legally and practically allowed on certain roads.

A higher-clearance car is always a good idea in Georgia, and a standard SUV or ‘soft’ 4WD can make driving more comfortable on rough roads or after heavy rain. But for most itineraries, this is still a preference, not a requirement.

For the majority of travellers, a sedan or standard SUV is perfectly adequate.

Where a specialist 4WD is genuinely required is when your route includes roads that are both challenging and contractually restricted. Most mainstream rental companies – including those listed on aggregators – explicitly prohibit driving in the following regions, regardless of vehicle type:

  • Tusheti
  • Shatili (and Khevsureti)
  • Truso Valley
  • Juta
  • Vashlovani Protected Areas
  • Goderdzi Pass (Akhaltsikhe-Batumi)
  • Zekari Pass (Sairme-Abastumani)

Driving on any of these roads with a standard rental – even a 4WD – can void your insurance. Many companies use GPS trackers to check your movements.

If your itinerary includes any of the above, a specialised off-road vehicle from a provider that explicitly allows access is essential.

A Delica car on the floor of a canyon in Vashlovani, Georgia.
Off-roading in the Vashlovani Protected Areas.

Why I recommend Martyna z Gruzji

Martyna z Gruzji is a Kutaisi-based car rental company that specialises in adventurous, off-road travel in Georgia, with a fleet that’s set up specifically for mountain regions and restricted routes.

They offer purpose-built vehicles, and have no blanket bans on any roads – meaning you can take their cars (when chosen from the correct category) literally anywhere.

The Georgian-Polish company is professionally run, offering 24-hour support and roadside assistance. You can rent from their office near Kutaisi Airport or organise vehicle delivery to Tbilisi or another location in Georgia.

Browse rentals here, and use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off.


Road conditions in Georgia: Detailed breakdown

Georgia’s infrastructure is still developing, but road conditions have improved dramatically in recent years. Since my first visit in 2017, I’ve seen huge upgrades – particularly on major highways and tourist routes.

Overall, roads in Georgia are much better than most people expect. I’ve covered every major highway, every mountain pass and most rural roads in Georgia – and I’ve only encountered a handful of genuinely bad stretches.

99% of the roads most visitors use are sealed, and the majority are smooth and pothole-free. The main things to be aware of are that roads can be narrow (even some major routes are single-track), and line markings are sometimes faded or missing.

Village and rural roads are more likely to be unpaved, usually compacted rubble or loose rock. Road quality can also vary by location – some cities have noticeably worse roads than others.

An aerial view of the road from Borjomi to Bakuriani in winter, with snow on the trees and the road cleared.
The road to Bakuriani Ski Resort in winter.

Roads to popular attractions

Roads to Georgia’s major sights are generally very manageable.

The roads to David Gareja Cave Monastery, Vardzia and Katskhi Column, for example, are all sealed and suitable for a standard sedan.

Some people might find the drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi via the Georgian Military Highway too stressful. This road always has heavy traffic due to the large number of trucks crossing the border. For many people, this is one journey that is better done with GoTrip.

The road to Gergeti Trinity Church from Kazbegi is also paved and easy to drive outside of peak winter.

Since Georgia has strict rules around drink driving, Kakheti wine region does not lend itself particularly well to a road trip, either. (Consider that the legal limit in Georgia is BAC 0.03 compared to 0.08 for the US and 0.05 for Australia.) For visiting vineyards and doing wine tastings, I recommend booking a dedicated wine tour from Tbilisi.

The new Rikoti Expressway

In December 2025, the new east-west highway linking Tbilisi with the Black Sea Coast was officially completed. The highway includes 97 new bridges and 51 tunnels, plus several bypass sections. It has cut travel time between Tbilisi and Kutaisi down to 2.5-3 hours, and Tbilisi and Batumi down to 4.5-5 hours.

The new highway is fantastic for getting from A to B – but there are other ways to travel across Georgia that are more atmospheric. See my Georgia Road Trip Itinerary for a scenic alternative.

A Soviet-era bas relief above the Rikoti Tunnel, a traffic corridor in Georgia.
Entrance to the Rikoti Pass tunnel in Georgia.

Roads with a bad reputation – but much improved

Some roads in Georgia still have a bad reputation, largely based on outdated or inaccurate information. In reality, many of these roads have been sealed or significantly upgraded in the past 1-3 years.

Notable examples include:

  • Mestia to Ushguli in Svaneti – fully concreted as of 2024
  • Ushguli to Kutaisi via Lentekhi (the Zagari Pass) – fully sealed as of 2024
  • Gomismta and Bakhmaro mountain roads in Guria – fully sealed as of 2024

These routes are manageable in a standard car during the warmer months, provided you drive cautiously and check conditions in advance.

Even the most notorious road in Georgia, the road to Tusheti (the Abano Pass), has been transformed in the past two years, and is now wider, smoother and faster than before. But it is still a challenging road that is best done with an experienced local driver in my opinion.

View of a winding serpentine road in Tusheti, Georgia. The only way to travel from Tbilisi to Tusheti.
The Abano Pass on the road to Tusheti.

Roads that are still problematic

There are a few roads that require extra care either due to ongoing roadworks or poor conditions, particularly outside peak summer or after heavy rain.

These include:

  • Zugdidi to Mestia – damaged in sections and vulnerable to landslides, with repairs ongoing
  • The road into Juta Valley near Kazbegi – badly damaged and impassable up to a point (I strongly recommend you avoid this road)
  • Tskhratskaro Pass (Borjomi to Akhalkalaki) – unsealed
  • Korsha to Shatili (the Datvisjvari Pass) – partially unsealed
  • Tracks inside the Vashlovani Protected Areas – unsealed offroading

Most car rental companies in Georgia prohibit you from driving on some or all of these roads, so be sure to read the fine-print when planning your route.

In recent years, the roads from Ushguli to Kutaisi (the Zagari Pass), Kutaisi to Akhaltsikhe (the Zekari Pass) and Akhaltsikhe to Batumi (the Goderdzi Pass) have undergone significant works and are now fully sealed.

A sign on the roadside indicating that the road is closed in the mountain community of Juta near Kazbegi.
The road to Juta.

Seasonal road closures

Some mountain roads in Georgia are closed during winter and only passable during the warmer months, from late May until October approximately (depending on weather conditions and snowfall). While many major roads are cleared in winter, some high mountain passes are not.

This includes the road to Tusheti, which is reliably open between mid-June and late September, the roads to Khevsureti and Juta Valley, which open in May and close in October, and the Goderdzi Pass, Zagari Pass and Zekari Pass, which open in late May or early June. These roads are safest between July and early September, when the weather is drier and more stable.

Winter travel can be tricky, even on major highways. The road between Gudauri and Kazbegi, for example, often closes temporarily for periods of a few hours to a few days when there are big winter storms. A new tunnel is now being built to alleviate this issue.

Floods and landslides are common in spring and early summer. Upper Racha region is particularly prone to landslides.

For real-time updates about temporary road closures, you can visit the GeoRoad Facebook Page or call the Roads Department Hotline on +995 322 313 076.

There isn’t one definitive map of Georgia’s roads that reflects conditions, so I made my own.

Map of roads in Georgia

Below is a map I created showing notable roads in Georgia, including popular sealed, gravel and unpaved routes you might encounter on your travels.

I keep it updated as conditions change – click through to open the latest version in Google Maps.

Map of roads in Georgia country.
Map of roads in Georgia. Data copyright Google Maps.

Driving in Georgia practical tips & FAQ

Do you need a GPS for Georgia?

No, you don’t need a GPS unit for Georgia.

Google Maps is more than sufficient for navigating. Just note that some brand new roads might be temporarily unmapped, and sometimes locations don’t precisely match up with reality.

When planning your trip, I recommend you add about 20-30% extra onto the time estimate that Google Maps gives you. The app tends to underestimate conditions.

To make navigation easier and to ensure you can reach help in case of an emergency, I highly recommend you buy a local SIM card or an eSIM when you arrive in Georgia. Magti has the best coverage in remote areas and is my top choice.

How do petrol stations work in Georgia?

Gas (petrol) stations in Georgia work the old-school way: Pull in, and an attendant will fill up the tank for you. Then you can pay with card/mobile wallet using their hand-held terminal. No need to get out of the car.

When you pick a hire car up, be sure to ask what fuel to use. Normally you will need benzine Premium 95 octane or higher. Just say ‘Premium’ to the petrol station attendant – they will understand.

Petrol prices in Georgia change regularly, but as of early 2026, most stations charge around 2.70-3.60 GEL (1.00-1.30 USD) per litre. Check current prices on this website.

Wissol, Gulf and SOCAR are three big gas station brands that are always reliable. We normally use the brand Connect (Konekti).

Gas stations are ubiquitous around the country, even in small villages. To avoid getting caught out in the high mountains or in very remote communities, it’s best to go into rural areas with a full tank. Prices do go up the more remote you get.

Most gas stations have other amenities too, including free restrooms and a shop where you can buy snacks and cold drinks.

Unlike in some countries, you cannot pump up your tires at a gas station – for that, you will need a garage that does vulcanisation. A quick pressure check and pump will cost you 1-2 GEL, while repairing a punctured tire in Georgia costs 10-30 GEL depending on the location.

A side mirror shows a mountain road in Georgia.
Wide open roads in Upper Racha.

What if I damage the car or get into an accident?

If you damage the car or run into any kind of trouble, contact your rental agent immediately. Most insurance policies in Georgia require all incidents to be reported to the police at the time they occur, even for minor damage and single-car accidents – so don’t wait until you return the car.

If you’re involved in an accident, stop the car immediately and do not move it. Moving the vehicle – even slightly – can invalidate the insurance.

Call your rental agent straight away and follow their instructions. Only move the car if you’re explicitly told to do so by the police. Take photos of the scene and any damage while waiting for the police to arrive.

In case of emergency, Georgia’s emergency number is 112.

A note on accidents and insurance in Georgia

One thing that might surprise you is that most private vehicles in Georgia are not comprehensively insured. Insurance is not mandatory. Because of this, minor accidents are normally resolved informally on the spot rather than through an insurance claim.

In these situations, drivers may agree on a cash payment to cover the damage and then go their separate ways.

However, if you’re driving a rental car, you should not handle things informally. Always call the police and your rental company, even for minor damage. Settling privately or moving the vehicle without police instruction can invalidate your insurance and leave you personally liable for the full cost.

If there is any disagreement, injury, or uncertainty, calling the police is always the safest option.

If police determine that you’re at fault, a fine is usually issued. From my experience, this is typically around 250 GEL, but amounts can vary.

What if I get a speeding fine or other traffic violation?

You wouldn’t think it from the way people drive, but traffic cameras are very common in Georgia.

The penalty for speeding is a 100-200+ GEL fine, depending on the area. ‘Smart cameras’ can also pick-up other violations, including crossing a solid line, driving without a seatbelt, and using a mobile phone while driving (all incur a 50 GEL fine).

Fines are drawn up automatically and issued to the owner of the car via SMS, usually within four hours. You then have 30 days to clear the fine or 10 days to appeal it.

If your agent notifies you about a fine, I highly recommend double-checking it before you pay. All violations are recorded on the Administrative Penalties website – search (in English) using the car’s technical passport number and licence plate number.

If you get issued a ticket by a police officer in person, you absolutely cannot pay on the spot. Georgia has a strict stance on anti-corruption, and flashing cash in this situation could get you into trouble (or at least lead to a very awkward situation). Trust me, it happened to me once.

You can also settle fines yourself at a bank branch or using a self-service paybox. If you have a local bank account, you can search and pay fines via your mobile banking app.

A sign for car parking in Georgia.
A parking sign in Kobuleti on the Black Sea Coast.

Is it easy to find a car park in Georgia?

Parking in Georgia is generally straightforward outside the major cities, but it can be challenging in urban centres – particularly in Tbilisi. This is just one more reason to avoid driving in the capital.

The three main cities each have their own municipal parking systems, which operate separately:

  • Tbilisi – paid on-street and zone-based parking
  • Batumi – city-managed paid parking
  • Kutaisi – local paid parking system

Parking passes can be purchased online or via banking apps, and payment is enforced by cameras and inspectors. If you’re driving in any of these cities, check with the rental agent whether they hold a pass.

Outside Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi, parking is generally free and easy. In towns, villages and at most attractions, you can usually park on the street or in informal parking areas without issue.

In many places, parking lots and even free parking bays are informally managed by a parking attendant, usually an older guy dressed in a brightly coloured vest. Their role is to help guide cars into spaces and keep an eye on vehicles. It’s polite – and expected – to give them a small tip when you drive off. A couple of coins is sufficient.

What is a Georgian car passport, and do I need one?

Every car in Georgia is required to carry a vehicle ‘technical passport’ – an ID card that proves the car is registered. If you’re driving a rental car, this is not something you need to arrange yourself.

The document should already be in the car. It’s usually kept in the glovebox or in the overhead sunglasses compartment above the centre console. It’s only needed if you’re stopped by the police, so it’s worth knowing where it’s stored – but beyond that, it’s nothing to worry about.

A Georgian car passport.
Example of a Georgian car passport.

Can I drive from Georgia into a neighbouring country?

If you’re travelling around the Caucasus, it’s simpler and cheaper to rent separate cars in each country rather than trying to take one vehicle across borders. Local Rent also operates in Armenia and in Azerbaijan, but does not support cross-border rentals.

It is possible to drive from Georgia into Armenia, and I’ve done this myself. If you’re planning this route, I recommend using the Ninotsminda–Bavra border crossing rather than the busier Sadakhlo–Bagratashen border crossing. It’s usually quieter and faster. Compulsory Armenian car insurance can be purchased easily at the border.

Under normal circumstances, it’s also possible to drive from Georgia into Azerbaijan. However, with Azerbaijan’s land borders still closed to inbound travellers, this option isn’t currently available.

It is not possible to take a Georgian rental car into Turkiye or Russia.

If you do plan to cross the Armenian land border in a rental car, you’ll need a notarised power of attorney from the vehicle’s owner. This typically costs around 150 GEL and takes at least two weeks to arrange. Most rental companies allow cross-border travel with advance notice.

A stretch of highway runs past a Soviet-era statue in Gyumri, Armenia.
On the road in Gyumri, Armenia.

Where to go on a Georgia road trip

If you do decide to drive in Georgia, the possibilities are endless! Here few of my favourite places to drive in Georgia – where having your own car genuinely enhances the experience.

  • Svaneti – specifically the loop from Zugdidi to Mestia to Ushguli to Kutaisi. Get the full route in my new Svaneti Road Trip Itinerary.
  • Kutaisi to Zugdidi – AKA the Monument Route, a drive filled with mosaics, memorials and monuments that photographers and urbexers will love.
  • The Javakheti Plateau – an incredibly scenic, quiet road through Georgia’s volcanic lake district (a great alternative to the main east-west highway).
  • Upper Adjara – the mountain road between Akhaltsikhe and Batumi, through Alpine villages and over the Goderdzi Pass. See my Upper Adjara Itinerary for full details.
  • Racha-Lechkhumi – a lesser-visited mountain region that requires a car to explore (and can easily be linked with Svaneti). See my Racha-Lechkhumi Guide for a suggested route.

→ For an easy, all-seasons driving route in Georgia, see my Georgia Road Trip Itinerary: Tbilisi to Batumi in 10 Days.

A beautiful paved road seen when driving in Georgia.
A beautiful stretch of highway in Racha.

Scenic roads in Georgia

In addition to the above, here are a few of my favourite short drives for breathtaking scenery. All of these roads are sealed and suitable for a sedan.

  • Sachkhere to Oni – the new-ish pass connecting Imereti and Racha is terrific for mountain scenery. You can use this road to travel from Kutaisi or Chiatura to Oni.
  • Kutaisi to Ambrolauri – also connecting Kutaisi with Racha, this road travels over the Nakerala Pass via Shaori Lake. Like the Sachkhere-Oni Road, it is particularly pretty in autumn.
  • Alpana-Tsageri – a loop road through Lechkhumi region fringed by vineyards and limestone rock formations.
  • Tianeti-Ninigori – a handy way to travel from Kakheti Wine Region to Kazbegi without having to go through Tbilisi, this road is newly sealed and has a few points of interest along the way, including Kvetera Fortress Church.
  • Didgori Valley Road – the road to the Didgori Battle Memorial is like a ribbon draped over undulating hills. It is incredibly beautiful and almost always quiet!
The Didgori Battle Memorial, a striking sculptural complex in the green hills of Kvemo Kartli region in Georgia.
The Didgori Valley road.


So, would you drive in Georgia? Anything else you’d like to know about renting a car in Tbilisi or driving in Georgia? Let me know in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help.


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105 Comments

  1. Hi Emily,
    I want to echo other comments’ thanks for the priceless set of resources you maintain here.
    Do you have any thoughts on picking up a car at the airport vs. arranging delivery somewhere north of the city (I believe you suggested Restaurant Tbilisi a few years ago?). Since we need to drop off at the airport, I figured it would save the one-way fee, but if driving north through Tbilisi, even on the major roads, is a nightmare, the cost may be worth it.

    1. Hi Jamie – thank you!

      Hm, as long as you are still picking up in Tbilisi, they shouldn’t charge you a one-way fee (just a pick-up/drop-off fee, which is showing as 5/10 USD for me).

      We sometimes drive to/from the airport around the Tbilisi Sea on the truck bypass road (the road that hugs the eastern shoreline of the lake and goes all the way round). It can be slow going, but there are usually very few other cars and all in all it’s an easy drive. Getting onto the highway at the top of the lake can be a bit confusing, but overall I think that would be a fine option!

  2. Dear Emily,
    your blog is just amazing, probably the best travel blog I ever encountered. I should have written this before as I am drawing inspirations from you for my Georgia trips since 2021.
    I am coming again to Georgia in May, and am planning to rent a car through localrent as I did in the past. This time I was planning to go from Batumi to Akhalstikhe through the Goderdzi pass. I read that the road works should be finished by now but the contract present on their website still mention the road as one you shouldn’t go to. I wrote them but received no answer (am not even sure the message box works). Do you happen to have any update on that? If not I will consider either to to do the classic northern road again, or check Martyna’s offers.
    Many thanks in advance for this… and everything else, Stefano

    1. Hi Stefano, thank you so much – I really appreciate the feedback!

      I am planning to go there in the first week of June to check out the road myself. Local Rent are a bit slow with updating their terms, unfortunately – it took a year of me asking before they would accept the Lentekhi Road as paved. I will ask my contact there about Goderdzi, too. Really it’s not a problematic road at all, even before it was finished – they are just ultra cautious as some companies are. Martyna is a good option as she doesn’t have any restrictions at all on certain vehicles.

      Have you driven up to Ushguli from Kutaisi? It is also very beautiful and newly sealed, if you need an alternative plan.

      Let’s hope the road is indeed finished and that Local Rent will revise their terms. I will keep this guide updated.

      1. Hi Emily, Stefano again. Good news! I booked a 4WD through local rent and when the owner contacted me I explained him the situation and asked about the Goderdzi pass road. He told me he would ask and get back to me. The day after he wrote me that it is permissable. I don’t know though if that would be for all cars or only for 4WD (I booked a Toyota Rav4).
        Many thanks for the Ushguli tip, it’s definitely an area I want to visit. Will see if I can squeeze it in this time.
        Once again, many thanks for everything.

        1. That’s great news, Stefano! Good thing about Local Rent is that you can deal directly with the owner and hope for some flexibility around these things. Make sure you have it in writing that they agreed.

          Safe travels and have a wonderful time!

  3. I am planning to rent a car in a few weeks during our visit to Tbilisi, but almost all the cars I see have a pickup location about 10-12 km from the old town. The charges for a city pickup and drop are $15 each, which is almost more than the cost of the daily car rental! Are the pickup locations easy to reach by public transport? Or do most end up paying the hefty pickup and drop charges?

  4. Hi! Thanks for the tips for driving! You mentioned that the Mestia-Ushguli road is now paved, does it mean it will not be prohibited by rental companies to drive on this road now? Just checking LocalRent website but they still list this road as prohibited due to poor condition, just wondering if perhaps they just have not updated their website?

    1. I have been encouraging them to review the terms since September last year, but unfortunately they haven’t shared an update yet. I would suggest you reach out to them (and the agent you are renting from) directly about your intentions to drive that stretch as some people have been able to get written permission. I hope an update across the board will come soon. Thanks!

  5. Hi Emily,

    Absolutely BRILLIANT blog. Many thanks for the time put into it. I’m headed to Georgia in late April and will be following your 10-day itinerary from Tbilisi to Batumi. In your blog you share a restaurant you picked your LocalRent car up from — but would you recommend a place that is closer to the highway ? We are trying to get to Vardzia on our first day and I’m having a tough time knowing where we can pick a car up. Is there parking associated with restaurants ? I was eyeing the restaurant Makalati but can’t tell if it has parking….

    Thank you!
    Jennifer

    1. Hi Jennifer – thank you! If the agent offers delivery, you can choose any address in Tbilisi to pick up the car (I just chose the restaurant because it was an easy landmark). If you are headed to Vardzia I would aim for a spot on the Tskneti Highway (within the city limits). Wishing you a safe drive and a wonderful trip!

  6. Hello Emily! Love your blog, it has been super helpful while planning our Georgia trip for this year. I was wondering, do you know if there are any car rental companies right in Mestia? We are having difficulty finding transportation options between Mestia and Ushguli so we would like to rent a car but we aren’t sure we want to drive all the way from Zugdidi.

    Thank you!

  7. Hi Emily
    Can’t thank you enough for your wonderful blog, it has saved me so much time and effort in researching everything. We are planning a 3 three month trip in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, followed by a month in Turkiye, and some time in Cyprus and Rhodes. All the information you have supplied about road conditions, car rental and itineraries has been great and we will continue to read the blog as we go; and update you on anything ‘new’ we find along the way
    Thanks again

  8. Hi Emily – thank you for your wonderful blog on Georgia, it is a treasure trove indeed!!! I am super excited about my road trip in the second half of June. I am planning to go to Mestia and Ushguli. I have two questions: 1/ the new road that you mention, via Lentekhi, is not in Google maps, I was told there is an alternative map, a Russian one, which is better for Georgia remote areas – do you happen to know what it is? I can read Russian. 2/ After Ushguli I have 2 days before my early morning flight back from Tbilisi. With the new road not in the map I am not sure which is the best way and a convenient stopover – what would you suggest?

    1. Hi Nadia, the road is indeed on Google Maps – if it is not showing you the route right now, it’s because the road is partially closed in winter. The road rejoins the main highway at Lentekhi. Racha would be a great choice for a stopover.

  9. Hi Emily
    Your posts are very informative. Thank you
    We are a family of three and would be traveling between 25th Dec to 4th Jan. We are planning to rent a self-driven car from Tbilisi to Gaudari. And from there to Kutaisi and finally to Batumi.
    I have a few basic questions
    – Would you recommend hiring a self-driven car or a hire a cab from point to point?
    – While checking the local rent website, i discovered something call “delivery” charges which were as high as daily rental charges of three days. is it the refundable deposit?

    1. Hi Runjhun – ‘delivery’ is the same as a one-way fee and is charged when you want to drop the car off at a different location from the pick-up, or in some cases if you request the car to be delivered to a different address.

      It is a long drive, and the road conditions this winter have not been great. I would recommend you check the weather reports before you travel (even the main highway to Batumi has been closed at times) and of course take winter tires as they are mandatory for the mountains (Local Rent will provide these free of charge).

  10. Hi Emily,

    Thank you for the detailed post and the Aug 2024 update!

    We are a couple travelling with our small children (3 years old and 6 months old) next week to Tbilisi for around 6 days. We plan to cover the city and also go to Sighnaghi/Kakheti and Kazbegi/Stepantsminda and were considering taking a car rental (with child seats). Do you reckon we should hire a car for the entire 6 days or just for the out of city trips? Also, would a sedan/mini-SUV be okay or a 4×4 is recommended for the out of city excursions? Thanks

    1. Hi Sohil, it is best to pick your car up when leaving Tbilisi. Driving and parking in the city is very stressful, as I describe in this guide. You do not need a 4×4 for Kakheti or Kazbegi, but if you plan to go to Juta or Truso, you will need an offroad vehicle. I hope this helps!

  11. Hello Emily,

    First of all, I want to thank you such detailed blogs on these destinations. Your blogs contain so much information that one does not need to look elsewhere. Hats off to you.

    My question is that I was checking local rent for hiring a self drive car. In their terms and conditions they have mentioned few prohibited areas like you can’t go from Sno till Juta. And, also for Truso valley, one is allowed only till Almasiani( which is 6 kms from Kvemo Okrokana, the started point of Truso Trek).

    I wanted to do complete Georgia on a self driven car. What do you suggest I do in this case now ?

    Thank you again.

  12. This is such an amazing post Emily. Thank you so much for the detailed info.

    I have a question. I am coming to Tbilisi on 27th July 2024 and will be there only for 1.5 days. I have heard the outer areas have awesome views but I dont think I will be able to cover any in such a short span of time. I was thinking of Kazbegi but that too will take up my whole day. I and my fiancée, then thought of just exploring Tbilisi in our 1.5 days. Is that wise? What do you suggest?

    Regarding car rental, initially I had no plans as I had made up my mind for using the public transport (metro). But my fiancée and friends suggest taking a rent a car for one day on 28th to move around Tbilisi. I read in your post about the traffic in Tbilisi. Since 28th is falling on Sunday, do you think it is wise to take a rented car? Or should we just go on foot around Tbilisi and use public transport wherever possible? Do let me know please.

    Thank you in advance for your reply and keep up the good work.

    1. Hi Jai, thanks for your comment! With 1.5 days you should just stay in Tbilisi – that’s 100% for sure. A car will be a major liability in the city. I strongly recommend you just use public transport and taxis booked through Bolt or a similar app.

    2. Hi Emily,

      Thank you so much for this informative post! People like you make this world a better place.

      I am planning in 4 weeks to drive from Mestia to Tsageri and thereby passing through Ushguli and Lentekhi.

      I am not sure which car rental companies allow this. Could you maybe help?

      1. Thanks so much, Abel! Martyna’s car rental (linked in this post) definitely does. You could also try some of the smaller agents e.g. Cars4Rent – but you need to ask them directly about this road to double check. I will also be driving this way in a couple of weeks time!

  13. Hi, Emily!
    We’re going on our first trip to Georgia and all you posts have been so helpful!
    Question: the “$” in LocalRendt is ment as USD? Should we pay in dollars or convert to GEL? I didn’t find that information in their website.
    Again, thanks so much for all the help!

  14. Emily,

    I just found a filter on the Localrent.com website that filters for age. So, I think we can make this work. Thanks, again, for all of your good advice.

    Gordy

  15. Emily,

    Thank you for your very informative blog. We’ve used it on several visits to Georgia and appreciate your insights and recommendations.

    We are planning on renting a car for this trip and note that the car rental agencies does not rent to drivers over 65 years. Since we are over that ripe age, how can we rent a car?

    1. Hi Gordy, yes a number of companies have this policy unfortunately (it is an insurance thing, I believe). I think you will need to go through one of the big brand name agencies instead. Avis, for example, does not seem to have an upper age limit as far as I can see. Best of luck!

  16. Great blog! Thank you for all the tips.
    Quick question regarding Local rent and roads up north.
    I’ve been to Georgia twice before, skiing in Gudauri, and always had a driver take me there and back.
    This time I want to self-drive, to Kakheti and then Kazbegi/Stepantsminda/Juta.
    No plans to get into off-road adventures, but do you think driving north would be a problem? I remember tons of trucks always along the route, but not sure about the road condition. Insurance-wise, do you think the car would be covered going to Gergeti, for example?
    Many Thanks!
    Shai

    1. Hi Shai,

      The road to Gergeti is fully sealed so there is no issue with insurance there.

      It’s a personal choice whether you choose to self-drive, and it depends on your confidence level. Since you have experience with the road, you probably have a good idea of what to expect. The trucks can be an issue and depending on the time of year, the weather can change quickly. Speeding cars on the tight bends is also an issue. If you hit the road early when there is less traffic, that will make things a little easier!

  17. What a big fail!
    I was about to book a 4×4 car over the recommended website localrent.com. God thanks, I was looking into their terms and conditions letter. For all cars, it’s only allowed to drive on asphalted streets. Many off-road streets, for ex. Mestia >> Ushguli it’s strictly forbidden to drive. All cars have a GPS Tracker on board, so you lose your insurance protection if you drive these offroad tracks.
    I’m asking myself: What’s the use of renting a 4×4 SUV if it’s not allowed to drive offroad?

    1. This is clearly stated in my post. This rule only applies to 3 or 4 particularly bad roads. Majority of rental agencies (including all the big ones) have the same restrictions.

      A 4×4 SUV in Georgia is handy anyway due to road conditions. There are many other unsealed roads that you can take and that require a 4×4.

      1. Wonderfully written post, Emily, thank you. But can you tell me what those restricted roads are like that you can’t even drive a 4×4 on them? I just got back from another driving tour of Turkey (34 days) and was using a Dacia Sandero Stepway, which is probably the best ‘substitute’ for a 4WD, if you don’t have one. At one point near the Georgian border, google maps brought me to a point where I had a choice of a very bad road, or a ‘road’ which was two wheel tracks through a muddy grass field in the mountains. The car did fine on the latter, but not having offroaded before, I was anxious the whole time. Between that and the potholed disaster known as Ukrainian roads, I can’t imagine anything so much worse.

        Also, while I’ll be getting an automatic, I have never used a 4×4 before. Outside of not engaging it on a sealed road, should I be concerned about, in effect, not knowing how to drive one?

        1. Hi Alex, it really depends on the road. Some are not that bad, they are just marked as off-limits by the rental companies. Others like the Tusheti road and the Lentekhi Pass are dirt/mud in parts and quite challenging. I would recommend you have a look at YouTube videos for the routes you are planning to get a feel for conditions on the ground.

  18. Thank you for all the wonderful information. We have thrown our Lonely Planet in the bin and have been planning our trip using all your practical information. We plan to use Local Rent and drive ourselves for most of our 5 weeks in Georgia. Can I ask about picking up a car in Tbilisi? We are staying in Rustaveli Ave and have taken your advice about avoiding driving in the city. Where would you recommend picking up the car if heading towards Gori? The airport and then on to the highway??? Thanks in advance

    1. Hi Cheryl – I would avoid airport pick-up as it’s on the opposite side of the city. I would meet the car somewhere in the Dighomi neighbourhood – that way you will bypass most of the heavy traffic and big roundabouts.

  19. Hey hiee
    Firstly thank you so much for such informative post about car rental in georgia. I am planning to visit georgia in march 3rd week 2024 . What would be the road condition like and weather in late March . we are thinking of Road trip from tbilisi to kakhati region . then tbilisi to kazbegi .
    Wanted to understand the road condition from tbilisi to batumi is it avdisible to go by car or by train .
    Also we have our 4 yr son and daughter along with us . Is car seat mandatory for them . ?
    Thank you in advance !!

    1. Hi Shalaka, there are roadworks on the main highway to Batumi but for the most part, the road is just fine. Do check the weather and conditions closer to the time, especially for the mountain road to Kazbegi. I recommend hiring car seats, yes. Enjoy your trip!

  20. Hi Emily
    Your blog and guides are fantastic! Great resource!
    We are also Australian and we are planning a month in Georgia in May 2024 .We plan to pretty much follow your “One month in Georgia itinerary”. I am planning to rent a 4X4 for most of the month after the initial 5 days in Tbilisi. I am confident driving (having driven in many countries including a 1 year road trip up Africa from Cape Town to London in our own LandRover) so that doesn’t worry me too much.
    My question is do you reckon in May that one needs to book every accomodation ahead (which can be a pain when “drifting” on a road trip) or is it reasonable to expect to find a place to stay most nights on a “pot luck” basis or with say maybe 24 hours warning? A difficult question I know when tourism is getting busier!

    1. Hi Stan – we spoke on email, but replying here too. Generally May isn’t too busy but I do recommend booking any special accommodations or smaller places (e.g. guesthouses) in advance. Have a wonderful trip!

  21. Hi Emily,
    is it wise or cheaper to join on a private tour during your trips to georgia versus renting a car + doing DIY?

    1. Hi John – it depends on your travel style and budget. The right tour can be great; exploring DIY is fun. Driving can be a bit stressful but it opens up a lot of opportunities.

  22. Hi Emily,

    Your blog is very very informative. I’m not a fan on reading but your blog made me seat in front of my computer for hours.

    Anyways, planning to go 8-day trip in late December this year and I wanna experience driving short trip in the country.

    Do you think Sedan/ non-4WD vehicle can be used on Kazbegi/ Gudauri/ Sabaduri forest/ or to any snow roads?

    Also, not related to this article, Im a Roman Catholic so we celebrated Christmas on 25th Dec. Do you know if the Catholic churches in Tblisi or any region do a 25-Dec masses?

    Thank you in advance.
    John F.

    1. Hi John, glad you’ve found the blog helpful!

      A 4WD isn’t mandatory but you do need proper winter tires. If you are hiring the car, just mention it to the agent to make sure.

      St Peter and Paul in Chugureti (near Fabrika) holds Christmas Eve mass. You should be able to find details on their Facebook Page – or just message them to ask.

  23. Local Rent (formerly MyRentACar) doesnot accept “local driving license” even if it is in “Latin alphabet”. International Driving Permit (IDP) is must.

    1. Hi John – can you please show me where this information came from? As someone who uses Local Rent regularly and does not have an IDP, I can tell you that this is not accurate.

  24. Hi Emily,
    Thank you so much for your wonderful website. We’d just been to Georgia and we loved it! We used the information on your website most of the time from Localrent, restaurants, the simcard…and it’s been very, very helpful. Precious!
    A big thank you,
    Selam.

    1. Amazing, Selam – thank you so much for your support and I’m very glad to hear you enjoyed Georgia! Hope you will be back for another visit soon. Take care!

  25. Hello, fantastic blog !!

    We are planning a quick trip to Georgia, on February to spend two days skiing in Gudauri, do you think that is worthy to rent a car to reach Gudauri ?

    Thanks

    1. Hi Sole – no, I don’t think it’s necessary. You won’t need it when you’re there if you’re skiing. I would just take a taxi or bus (GoTrip is preferred in winter for safety reasons). Just be sure to check with the resort – the season has been very late to start this year and there still isn’t much snow.

    2. Hi Emma
      My two friends and I are planning to buy a car in Georgia and drive to London UK.
      Any tips regarding where to look and what the process is please.
      Love your blogs – great source of valuable information
      Cheers
      Ron
      Sydney Australia

      1. Hi Ron – the biggest issue is driving into Turkey, you can’t cross that border with a Georgian registered car unless you are a resident of Georgia. The only way around it is to use the car ferry across the Black Sea.

  26. Hey!

    Do you think worth renting a car for our 3 and half days trip in Kutaisi?
    We are deciding, but wanted to just to make sure we visits more places.

    Ps: Your blog is amazing! Thank you.
    Regards
    Paloma

    1. Hi Paloma – sorry I missed your comment. I’m probably too late, but if not – Kutaisi is a great place to rent a car because there is a lot to see in the regions outside the city. Racha, Samegrelo and Upper Imereti are some of my favourite places!

  27. my wife and I just spent 10 days in Georgia for our honeymoon. Using this article, I rented a car from LocalRent and we drove EVERYWHERE!
    From Tbilisi to Batumi, the roads were great! The major hwy project is coming along nicely and even with many construction zones, it was a safe and easy passage. We also drive North out of Tbilisi to play in the snow. My wife, being from the Philippines, had never seen or touched snow. The hwy going north was also safe and easily navigated. I’m not sure why, but by afternoon semi trucks were being stopped on the shoulder of the road to wait. I presumed it was due to the 6-8% grades on those mountain rods but I never stopped to ask.

    Driving in Tbilisi is not for the faint of heart. As a person who drives for a living, I enjoyed it greatly! Very agressive and very fast paced. it’s how I always wished I could drive in Detroit!
    Beware, if pulling out of a place known to serve alcohol, you may be pulled over “just to check” if you were drinking.
    As a non-drinker, I thought it was funny. The police got close enough to know I had what I had eaten.. haha Kabob does have a powerful aroma though.

    I could write so much more but I want to thank you for your article! It was the one honest and accurate piece I found on driving.
    Perhaps in another post, you could focus on street signs (perhaps you have already and I missed it).
    Most are intuitive, but some took a while to understand.

    ****something I did not see in your post***
    The use of headlights is mandatory in tunnels and I recommend having your lights on 24/7 just in case

    I love Georgia now, and we will be back in the spring to drive and explore more! Thank you so much for your help

    1. Thanks so much for your trip report, John! I’m glad you embraced the driving style in Georgia!

      Trucks are always queuing on the side of the Military Highway because of bottlenecks at the border. There is a new tunnel/road being built now to offer some relief.

      Thank you very much for the tips and insights! Hope you’ll be back to Georgia again soon.

  28. Hi! I’ve been to Tbilisi and Gudauri but never behind the wheel. We’re going back but plan to visit Lopota Lake for a day. It’s a 2 hour drive says google map.

    Is it considerably easy to drive there? I just thought we’ll have more freedom to see the area with our own car.

    1. Hi Nina – Kakheti is definitely one of the easier places to drive as the roads are good and it’s mostly flat. I found it the easiest region to drive in personally. The highways do get busy on weekends so keep that in mind.

  29. First of all: This blog is one of the most helpful resources when traveling to Georgia! We followed the recommendations here as we wanted to discover Georgia not only by train and Marshrutkas but also on our own terms using a rental car. LocalRent was very easy to use. In hindsight, I would recommend a 4×4 car (we got a Toyota Prius…) as most roads outside of Tbilisi are in (very) poor conditions. We drove to Kazbegi and Sighnaghni and it worked quite well. Always watch out for animals and people wandering on the roads and for (very) reckless drivers. As suggested here, we also avoided driving during night time as you want to see those (sometimes very big) pot holes…

    1. So glad you enjoyed your trip, Patrick!

      I understand what you mean but I have to disagree – most major roads outside Tbilisi are relatively good (aside from potholes), but there are a few that are quite rough or under construction. I created a map (found in this post) with the major ones. There is a lot of road work going on now.

      Totally agree with you about not driving at night!

      Kakheti actually has some of the best roads in the country – you’ll have to come out west next time and see our potholes, he he! Hope you’ll come back to Georgia again soon! Take care!

  30. Hi
    Do you know where I can get a drivers rule book downloaded as I would like to get my Georgian drivers license.
    Thanks for your help.
    Margaret

  31. Hi Emily, I will go to Georgia this September. Should I need a international license if I would like to rent a car? Isit possible that I drive to Mtskheta, kazbegi and return to Tbilisi in one day?

    1. Hi Vlip, it depends on the licence you hold and what language it’s written in. Best to check with the rental company.

      It’s possible to do that in one day but you won’t enjoy it – Kazbegi is 3 hours from Tbilisi without stops, and there are lots of places to see on the way. I highly recommend you spend a night in Kazbegi.

  32. Hi,

    Your blog has been an invaluable resource in planning my trip to Georgia. One thing that I really want to do (and haven’t had much luck finding info on) is go east from Batumi towards Khulo to visit Adjara’s beautiful 19th century wooden mosques. Since many of these mosques are in remote mountain villages I figured the only way to see them would be by private vehicle but I wanted to get your opinion as to the best way to see them. Thanks!

    1. Hi Ben, thanks so much!

      Khulo and Upper Adjara is just wonderful – I have been twice but really want to spend more time there. The mosques are on my radar too after seeing that beautiful photography project.

      You’re right that you would definitely need your own car or preferably a car and experienced driver – most are in small villages off the main road. Additionally from my research, I’ve found that some are only accessible by going off-road, so you would need a 4WD. This would be fairly easy to do from Batumi or Khulo.

      I hope this answers your question. It would be terrific to see these mosques in person – I hope you can fulfil your plan! Please keep me posted.

  33. Hey Emily, I have no words to explain how useful your blog has been.. I have a trip in june to Montenegro and another in August to Georgia and your posts on these regions are just amazing.. incredible content.

    My question: I am planning to go from Telavi straight to Kazbegi.. Google Maps give me 2 routes.. a longer one via Tbilisi and a shorter one going north only.. but this one goes thru the Jhinvali and Tianeti road that you mentioned is partially unpaved.

    How hard is it to go thru this unpaved road? Is it doable with a sedan like a Corolla? I am about to book my car with local rent and I am willing to book a Sedan (more comfort for long trips) but this small part of the road is giving me doubts… Thanks for your help

    1. Hi Fabricio, very glad to hear that, many thanks for the kind words!

      Yes, the Akhmeta-Tianeti road is still unpaved – actually work just started on it this month but it won’t be finished until next year. I think a 4WD would be preferable, but a Corolla should be fine as long as you stick to the main path and don’t go off-road to any of the churches. I did it in a minivan which was quite low to the ground and we didn’t have any issues. Just take it nice and slow.

      But – if it’s raining or has been raining then a 4WD might be mandatory as it could be quite muddy.

      I hope this helps!

    1. Hi Willy, thanks for your question. There is certainly a police presence on the road plus speed cameras etc. I haven’t had to deal with the authorities personally, but from what I hear, it’s usually a hassle-free process.

      1. Willy, I had several interactions with police. I am a talkative fella and several times I talked to them on the street. I was also pulled over by a road patrol.

        in all of my experiences, they were helpful and generous with their time and knowledge.
        I felt that they were like most police in any US city, Their happiness is helping others. By showing them respect and appreciation, you will make fast friends and maybe even a photo op with a cop haha

  34. Hi Emily, such a nice and details blog and so far not found this much explanatory details specifically for Georgia trip and that too many blogs on almost on all’ topics.
    Need quick guidance, I have booked tickets hotel everything for my mid February trip to Georgia and planning to drive on my own. However just asking if Tbilisi to Gudauri (ski resort) do I need 4wd or a sedan will be ok (considering its peak of winter season). Thank you in advance and stay safe.

    1. Hi Jaggs, thank you! Sedan is perfectly fine for Gudauri, the road is fully paved and well maintained throughout winter. There’s always a chance the road will be closed due to snow/avalanche risk but usually it’s the part beyond the resort. It’s a good idea to double-check conditions before you set off, either ask your guesthouse in Gudauri or call the roads department.

      Safe travels!

  35. Hi Emily
    i am planning to drive from Tbilisi airport to Gadauri then kazbegi. can u suggest a best and safe route. i domt want to hire a guide, want to drive myself

    1. Hi Ramzi – there is only one way up, via the Georgian Military Highway. Just take it slowly, check weather conditions on the ground and watch out for trucks!

  36. Hi Emily thanks for the detailed guide. I am planning to travel to travel to Georgia in November and my iteneary is tiblisi to gudauri to kazbegi to borjomi to kutaisi to batumi and back to tiblisi. Driver with guide is a lot of money so do you suggest renting a car and driving to these places would be okay? We don’t have much experience of snowy roads though. It would be the first time but generally are confident drivers

  37. Hello! Thanks a lot for all your posts they are incredibly helpful! I decided to rent a car from Tbilisi to be more flexible. Being a good and experienced driver I’ll be driving up the Military Highway. Do you have a recommendation for a pick-up location? Thank you!

    1. Hi Elora,

      Fantastic! I once picked up a car from outside ‘Restaurant Tbilisi’ on the highway – it’s a bit busy, but it puts you straight on the highway. You can bypass Mtskheta if you’re not stopping there.

      Have a safe and fun drive!

      Kindest,
      Emily

  38. Dear Emily,
    Wow! Amazing guide.
    I have booked a car from Myrentacar just now (Ford Escape 2008) as 2011 model doesn’t have Bluetooth and CD players. I will travel from Tbilisi to Batumi on 16th July 2021 and then back to Tbilisi or Racha on 19th July 2021 but I don’t think they can pick the car in Racha so have to drop in Tbilisi. They are also providing free sim car but not sure if it will contain internet package or not.

    I have to stay for 3 days in Batumi, we are 2 friends and need 2 separate rooms and 2 washrooms. Can you advise some best options with great surroundings? If reasonable price would be amazing as I don’t want to waste a lot on hotels.

    Regards
    Shoaib

    1. Hi Shoaib, fantastic! Sounds like an adventure!

      My favourite hotel in Batumi is Kartuli, rooms start from a very reasonable rate and the views are outstanding.

  39. thank you for all the great info. I plan on renting a car in Tbilisi in mid July and then returning it in Yerevan. Myrentacar.com does not give me this option and no way to contact the rental company to ask them if they will allow this. Do you know how I can rent a car in Georgia and return in Armenia?

    any help will be great.

    thanks

    1. Hi Michael, I’m not aware of any companies that allow this (due to insurance issues). But I will ask around and see if I can find some info for you!

  40. Thanks so much for such a comprehensive site – I’m trying to read as much as I can before planning our trip to Georgia this year and you have so much helpful information!
    I would like to ask though, you recommend not self-driving to Kazbegi, are there specific reasons to avoid it? Our group tends to like the rental car option, so I want to make sure I know what we’d be getting into, or if we should hire a driver instead.
    Thanks again for all the great material!

    1. Hi Karen, very glad to hear that!

      The main reasons to avoid that road are weather conditions (snow in winter and rock fall/landslides that block the highway in spring/summer), but more importantly the large numbers of lorry trucks coming to and from the border. It’s really up to you – personally I feel more comfortable going up with an experienced driver in a car, but if you research conditions once you get here and are prepared and confident on the roads, then you could well have a very enjoyable drive! It’s a very scenic road.

      I hope this answers your question!

      1. We are a family with little kids heading to Kazbegi… if we get a driver up there… are there other drivers once were there who can take us from place to place around Kazbegi?
        Thanks for your tips!

        1. Hi Kirra – there are taxis, yes, and a limited number of drivers on Bolt. But taxis are quite expensive in Kazbegi just because of the size of the town and the nature of the location. If you are overnighting, you can always ask your guesthouse/accommodation to link you with a driver.

  41. Thank you very much for this detailed and useful information. I will take a go trip car during my visit in late June since am a nature lover and it will be my first time trip.

  42. Hi Emily,
    Thank you very much for all the detailed information on Georgia, I am planning a trip on the 4th of June and I’ve used your website for all of my planning, it’s a treasure trove!
    I have one question: I plan to rent a car for transportation between Tbilisi-Sighnaghi and Telavi – Tbilisi via Gombori pass ( plus a few small trips in-between).
    I am not a complete beginner but I am not 100% confident either considering it’s a foreign country – but would you say it’s safe to drive on these 2 routes (in particular Gombori pass)?

    Thank you,
    Magda

    1. Hi Magda, very happy to hear that! I hope you have a wonderful trip!

      I drove that route in February. The Kakheti Highway to Sighnaghi is very easy. I recommend you get your car delivered to a spot on the highway so that you don’t have to drive through Tbilisi. The Gombori Pass is a little bit windy in parts but very manageable. When I did it, it was a little busy because it was a weekend, so it depends on the day and time of day that you travel. If possible, try to leave early to avoid traffic.

      If you don’t feel confident you could look at GoTrip.ge – they offer cars and drivers for a reasonable rate.

      I hope this helps!

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