Sleeping in a Silk Road Caravanserai: How to Stay at the Incredible Sheki Karvansaray Hotel in Azerbaijan

Sheki Karvansaray Hotel (AKA the Sheki Caravanserai Hotel) is one of the most unique and memorable accommodations in Azerbaijan. Here’s what it’s like to sleep inside a historic Silk Road Caravanserai – plus everything you need to know to organise your stay.

Long before I’d ever considered setting foot in this part of the world – before I knew about the Silk Road or had any knowledge of Central Asia – I have been enamoured with one word: caravanserai.

When I was in my teens, a Turkish restaurant bearing the name Caravanserai opened close to my house. This was probably the first time I heard the word uttered, and I’ve been fascinated with caravanserai and everything it conjures ever since.

Sheki’s Karvansaray Hotel embodies the word I love so dearly. Located inside the Upper Caravanserai – one of several historic trader’s inns in Sheki – it is as authentic (and impressive) a caravanserai as you’ll ever see.

Back in 2017, I spent two nights at this hotel in the historic town of Sheki in northern Azerbaijan. It was one of the highlights of my time in the Caucasus and part of the reason I fell in love with the region (and eventually why I decided to move here!).

Along with the Sevan Writers’ House in Armenia and the Tskaltubo Spa Resort in Georgia, I rate it among my top three unique accommodation experiences in the Caucasus.

I have since been back to Sheki several times and on every trip, I revisit the caravanserai to see how the hotel is going.

Updated for this year, my guide tells you everything you need to know about staying in Sheki’s Caravanserai.

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History of the Upper Caravanserai

Caravanserais were constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries to accommodate travellers on the Silk Road.

The Caucasus isn’t traditionally considered part of the famous trading thoroughfare that connects China with Turkey and Europe. But the Silk Road was actually an ad-hoc series of different routes that extended across Central Asia and branched out into Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia.

You can find a few beautiful caravanserais in Tbilisi, too – one of the biggest surviving inns has been converted into a museum/shopping/wine bar precinct.

Sheki was an important stop on the Silk Road. There were at least two massive inns built in the centre of the city to accommodate traders. They were known as the Yukhari (upper) and Ashaghi (lower) caravanserais.

I can’t emphasise how huge the stone and brick Upper Caravanserai is (but incredibly the Lower Caravanserai, currently closed for restoration work, is even bigger!).

There are close to 600 individual rooms of various sizes – that’s counting the underground storage cells that merchants could access from their sleeping quarters by stepladder if they wanted to check on their goods during the night.

In 1988, after a period of abandonment, a number of these chambers were turned into guest rooms and travellers once again started treading the stone paths of one of Azerbaijan’s oldest accommodations.

The Karvansaray Hotel currently has 14 refurbished guest rooms plus a traditional tea house and restaurant.

Karvansaray Hotel location & how to get there

The Karvansaray Hotel shares its entrance with the Upper Caravanserai, the heritage monument on Sheki’s main street, Mirza Fatali Akhundzada Avenue. See the exact location pinned here.

Entry is via the wooden doors on the corner.

The caravanserai is located opposite the Sheki Palace Hotel, around 800 metres downhill from the Sheki Khan’s Palace or 2.6 kilometres from Sheki Central Bus Station.

A taxi to the hotel from the bus station costs 1-3 AZN. Alternatively you can take bus 22 or any of the other buses that are bound for the castle.

When you enter through the doors, you will find yourself inside a dimly lit covered courtyard area with a big fountain in the centre. The Karvansaray Hotel reception is located in one of the rooms directly to the left.

Rooms at the Sheki Karvansaray Hotel, facilities & what to expect

The rooms at the Karvansaray Hotel are certainly not luxurious, but the atmosphere and the history of the building more then makes up for that.

Rooms are located inside the brick chambers of the caravanserai, along the upper level. Each room opens out to the central balcony from where you can look down onto that gorgeous central courtyard.

The Upper Caravanserai is part of Sheki’s UNESCO World Heritage Listed Historic Centre.

Non-guests are allowed to visit the caravanserai and wander through the courtyard between 11am and 7pm daily. (To give hotel guests some privacy, visitors are not allowed to walk up to the second level.) Outside of these hours, the caravanserai is all yours!

As you can envisage from the pictures, rooms all have an impressive domed brick ceiling. The rooms are split into two sections, with a quaint sitting area in the front and a bedroom at the rear. Every room seems to have two single beds.

The old brickwork and poor sealing around the doors means that the rooms are a little cold at night. But every room does have a radiator.

Linens, towels and warm bedding is provided.

When we stayed in Sheki in April, it was still quite cold. We had enough blankets to keep us warm in bed, but walking around inside the room after sunset was difficult. Hop under the covers before dark if you can!

Each room has its own private ensuite bathroom – I’m quite sure this wasn’t the case back in the Silk Road days. The bathrooms are a bit outdated in terms of design and fittings, but they are clean and most importantly, there is steaming hot water.

As I mentioned, the hotel also has an onsite restaurant and tea house located at the back of the complex. We ate dinner here during our stay in 2017 – the piti was very tasty.

Breakfast is included in the delux room rate, and can be added on if you’re staying in a basic room.

If the weather is warm enough, I highly recommend eating in the restaurant garden which is hidden through one of the arches on the side of the building. There are several covered gazebos where you can sit.

This isn’t the only caravanserai you’ll see in Sheki, but it’s certainly the only one you can sleep in. If you are planning to visit Azerbaijan, make sure you visit Sheki and stay at Karvansaray Hotel for at least a night or two: It’s a truly unforgettable travel experience!

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How to organise a stay at the Caravanserai Hotel in Sheki

Karvansaray Hotel prices

Rooms at the hotel are very reasonably priced. Currently the rates are as follows:

• Standard room: 30 AZN per room per night (around 17.50 USD)
• Deluxe room: 50-120 AZN per room per night depending on the room (around 29-70 USD)

Karvansaray Hotel bookings & contact info

It is not possible to make a hotel reservation online. Instead, you have two options: Chance it and ask for a room when you arrive in Sheki (which is usually acceptable in the low or shoulder seasons), or call ahead to reserve a room.

Yasin at reception speaks a little English and can be reached on +994 557 555 570 (mobile) or +994 557 125 717 (Whatsapp).

The hotel also has an (inactive) Facebook Page.

Payment is made on check-in. Cash only.

Things to do around the caravanserai & where to eat nearby

The Upper Caravanserai is perfectly positioned for exploring Sheki on foot. The Khan’s Palace and castle complex are walking distance from the hotel.

Follow the street along the side of the caravanserai and you will find yourself in the charming backstreets of Sheki, where there is an old silk factory, ancient minarets, and lovely vernacular architecture. I also highly recommend visiting the newly reopened Khan’s Mosque and Cemetery, which is directly behind the caravanserai.

Walk the opposite way down the main avenue, along the bottom of the caravanserai, to browse the little pottery shops, antique emporiums and Sheki Halva workshops set behind the archways.

For a full list of things to do, see my Sheki travel guide.

There are a number of restaurants near the Karvansaray Hotel including Qaqarin and Old Town.

Another must-do is to stop for a glass of Azerbaijani wine at Khan Wine House, located directly opposite. While you’re there, pop up to the rooftop of the adjoining hotel for a great view down onto the caravanserai.

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Other hotels in Sheki

If the Karvansaray Sheki hotel is booked out, there are a number of other accommodation options in Sheki to choose from. Here are my recommendations:

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7 things to pack for Azerbaijan

• An anti-theft backpack. As a general rule, Azerbaijan is a very safe place and petty crime against tourists isn’t really an issue. Still, a good anti-theft day pack is worth having to keep your valuables safe in the city. If you’re having trouble deciding, here are a few of my favourite minimalist backpack designs.
• A scarf for visiting mosques (women). A lightweight cotton scarf is my number one travel item. In Azerbaijan, it will come in extra handy for covering your hair when entering a mosque or for draping over your shoulders when visiting a market or a rural area. This neutral travel scarf goes with anything, and it even has a hidden pocket. Remember the dress code in Azerbaijan is quite conservative – women and men alike should avoid shorts and wear pants or a skirt that covers the knees.
• Walking shoes. From the cobbled streets of Sheki to the hills of Baku and the muddy landscape around Gobustan, you’ll likely be spending a lot of time on your feet in Azerbaijan. Comfy walking shoes are absolutely essential.
• A reusable water bottle. Avoid single-use plastics whenever you can. I love my S’Well water bottle for warm climates because it doesn’t sweat.
• Wine Wings. Should you decide to buy a drinkable souvenir in Azerbaijan, these handy custom-made bottle protectors will keep your vino safe and sound in your luggage. A travel corkscrew and a wine stopper are bound to come in handy, too.
• Entertainment for long bus/train journeys. If you don’t suffer motion sickness, an e-reader is great for passing the time on long bus or train journeys. If you have a travel buddy, pick up a headphone splitter – probably my favourite travel gadget of all time – so you can share a screen or a podcast. Check out my full list of essential items to make a long train or bus journey more comfortable.
• Biodegradable wet wipes. Try this convenient travel pack.

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Sheki caravanserai Hotel: Pin it & share it!

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More Azerbaijan travel resources

• Azerbaijan travel guides, my latest blogs
• One-week Azerbaijan itinerary, a suggested route for first-time visitors
• 10-14 day Azerbaijan Georgia itinerary, easy overland travel
• The ultimate Caucasus itinerary, the best of Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan
• All the best things to do in Baku, a complete guide to the capital
• Baku Old City, what to see & do inside the city walls
• The Heydar Aliyev Center, my favourite photos & visitors’ tips
• 12 best day trips from Baku, where to go & how to get there
• Day trip from Baku to Gobustan, how to visit the mud volcanoes
• Travel from Baku to Sheki, transportation tips
• Guide to Khinaliq, trekking & homestays
• Guide to Quba, Azerbaijani carpet weaving
• Guide to Lahic, visiting the old-school copper workshops
• How to travel to/from Baku and Georgia by overnight train, a guide to the sleeper train
• BTAK railway from Baku to Kars via Tbilisi, all the latest
• Photos of Azerbaijan, more inspiration for your trip
• Azerbaijan by bus, my tips for overland transport