Marshrutka minivans are an easy and affordable form of transport in Azerbaijan. Here’s everything you need to know about travelling by public bus in Azerbaijan — including the Baku to Tbilisi bus, Baku to Sheki, and other popular routes.
Public transport is an affordable, easy and convenient way to travel around Azerbaijan, especially for inter-city trips. You can also use the Baku to Tbilisi bus to travel overland from Azerbaijan to Georgia, stopping off at Sheki and Qax on the way.
Despite only taking a limited number of buses (just five in total) during our travels in Azerbaijan, we did a fair amount of research in advance and spent a decent amount of time hanging out at bus stations.
If you’re curious (or maybe anxious) about travelling around Azerbaijan by bus, I hope this post answers some of your questions. Scroll to the end for my report from the road, including all routes, times and costs from our recent travels in Azerbaijan.
Travelling around the Caucasus? Here’s my epic Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan itinerary to help you plan your route.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Public transport in Azerbaijan: The basics
Bus routes
The first thing to know is that most locals travel by bus. Every time we travelled, we were the only (obvious) foreigners on board. If there’s local demand for it, there’s a bus route – and as such, you can be sure that buses connect most major centres throughout Azerbaijan (except of course Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh)).
Baku is the biggest transport hub, with buses to every corner of the country departing from the International Bus Terminal Complex north of the Old Town (see the location of Baku’s main bus station here). Even smaller towns such a Sheki are well-connected. I took the photo above at Sheki station.
Bus schedules
Buses conform to a mix of regular scheduled routes and ad-hoc timetables that leave as soon as the vehicle fills up. Major routes run buses at least hourly. Other shorter journeys might fit around peak hour. Abundance mentality definitely applies here – there will always be a bus waiting for you or not far off. The only time you might get stuck is before 8am or after 5pm, so try to travel between those times.
Tip: Use the International Bus Terminal Complex website to check bus schedules from Baku.
Types of vehicle
‘Bus’ can mean a lot of things in Azerbaijan – coach, minibus, marshrutka (a glorified van that follows a fixed route, popular throughout the former USSR countries), or maybe even a taxi. These seem to be used interchangeably depending on the day of the week, the time of day, or how many people show up at the station.
Some smaller vans and minibuses are privately owned, with the driver’s name and phone number pegged above the dashboard.
Fares
Bus fares are incredibly affordable, even for long journeys. Expect to pay around 1 AZN (0.60 USD) for a shorter trip (80km or so) and up to 10 AZN for longer legs. Fares are set (don’t attempt to haggle) and the same price for foreigners and locals.
Tickets are usually purchased on board the bus by paying the driver directly (always cash, preferably small bills). Sometimes drivers asked us for the fare up-front; other times we paid at the end of the journey. Even at the bus stations with ticket windows (kassa) desks, we still purchased a ticket on the bus.
It’s not possible to reserve tickets in advance, but you might be able to pre-purchase a seat on your day of travel. You don’t need any ID to buy bus tickets.
Travelling with luggage
After our first few marshrutka experiences in Georgia, I was a little worried about travelling with a duffel bag. I needn’t have been – most buses have luggage space in the back. Seats aren’t roomy, but there’s enough legroom to fit a large backpack. Sometimes larger bags were placed in the aisle.
Bus stations
Stations are generally well equipped with public toilets (pay 0.20 AZN before you enter) and kiosks where you can purchase bottled water, chai, packaged snacks and bread. Some have a ticket desk where you can confirm departure times.
The International Bus Terminal in Baku is organised chaos. Marshrutky arrive and depart from the top level of the terminal, so your first challenge is to wind your way through the bottom levels of shops (we just followed a group of people who were carrying bags in the hope that they were headed where we wanted to go). We knew we had no hope of finding the bus we wanted ourselves, so we just stood around and waited for someone to approach us. There is competition between drivers to fill up their vehicles fast, so expect a certain amount of to-ing and fro-ing.
Electronic timetables are displayed overhead, but in our experience, these don’t mean much. Popular destinations are signposted out in the parking area, so if you spot a white sign or dashboard placard marked with your intended destination, you can head straight over and approach the driver.
Bus etiquette
There’s nothing out of the ordinary to report here. Windows should be kept closed in winter, and there’s no smoking on the bus. The driver will point out a seat where they think you should sit – the front of the bus is prime real estate and usually reserved for elderly passengers (or whoever the driver wants to chat to on the journey).
Tips for travelling by bus in Azerbaijan
- Practice pronouncing the word for bus station – avtovagsal – so you know what to say when you jump in a taxi. Whenever we took a taxi or Uber to the avtovagsal, our driver always made sure we knew where we were going and asked around for the bus on our behalf. This is just one example of how people in Azerbaijan will often go out of their way to help you – if you look hopeless enough!
- All buses have the destination well-marked on the dash if not printed on the vehicle itself. But you’ll still need someone to point you in the right direction, especially in Baku. Practice pronouncing the name of your destination before you get to the station to avoid confusion.
- Buses from Baku to other cities depart every 30-90 minutes depending on the destination. Use this website to check schedules and fares.
- You’ll often see multiple buses for a destination queued up at the station. You might jump at the empty looking bus thinking you’ll have more room – but that’s not the way it works. Buses might not depart until they are full, so if you want to get a move on, go for the bus that’s already filling up.
- In our experience, passengers don’t smoke on the bus (drivers not included). Buses are usually kept pretty clean; some drivers even mop the floor between trips.
- All the buses we took made toilet stops every one-to-three hours at roadside restaurants.
- Towards the end of the journey, the bus will start stopping sporadically (sometimes in the middle of nowhere) to let people off in front of their houses, etc. Don’t jump the gun – if you want to end up at the final stop, make sure you’ve actually arrived there before you disembark.
- Depending on your destination, the bus may not end up at the ‘bus station’ proper but at some informal depot or exchange. Either way, there will be no shortage of taxi drivers waiting to meet you.
Baku to Tbilisi bus & other routes: Report from the road
We spent two weeks travelling around Azerbaijan. In that time we took five bus journeys, including one international leg.
Baku to Quba bus (and Quba to Baku)
Buses between Baku and Quba (Guba) are very frequent, departing every 30-60 minutes from 7.30am until 6pm. The journey covers a stretch of well-maintained highway and takes just over two hours. A ticket costs 4 AZN. We took a minibus on the way up and a large coach on the way back.
Visiting Quba? Make sure you see the incredible carpet weavers at Qadim Quba.
Baku to Tbilisi bus via Sheki and Qax
If you’re not taking the overnight train from Baku to Tbilisi, it’s possible to travel into Georgia by road.
Please note: At the time of writing, the land border between Azerbaijan and Georgia remains closed. It is not possible to travel into Azerbaijan by road or rail – the only option is to fly. It may be possible to cross into Georgia from Azerbaijan. Double-check with your nearest embassy/consulate.
Baku to Sheki
This is another popular route, with four daily buses leaving Baku between 9.50am and 11.20pm (overnight service). The fare to Sheki (Shaki) is 8.40 AZN. Journey time is 4-6 hours depending on the type of vehicle and road conditions. Minivans are faster than coaches.
Must read: The best things to do in Sheki.
Sheki to Qax
Our intention was to travel directly from Sheki to Tbilisi, but staff at the tourism information centre in Sheki advised us to go to Qax first. Sheki to Qax is a very short trip, taking around 40 minutes. Most of the other passengers on the journey were commuting to work.
We took the first minibus of the day at 8am and paid just 1 AZN per person. There are additional vans at 10am and 11.30am.
Qax to Tbilisi
Once in Qax, we waited for an hour for the bus to Tbilisi. Qax has the smartest bus station of the towns and cities we visited, with a cafe, shops, and very friendly staff. Buses to Tbilisi were running at 8.30am, 10.30am and 1pm.
Our bus pulled into the station just after 10.30 (note that it doesn’t originate in Qax but somewhere further down the road) and we were in Tbilisi by 4pm. A single ticket cost us 8 AZN.
Where to stay in Baku
If it’s your first time in Baku, I highly recommend choosing a hotel located inside or close to the walls of the atmospheric Old City.
TOP CHOICE: Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.5). Located within the Old Town walls, 5 minutes from Maiden Tower, this cute hotel has tidy rooms with balconies and a rooftop terrace. Breakfast is served in a quirky dining room decorated with Caucasian carpets.
BUDGET: Cth Baku Hostel (⭐ 9.2). Located in the popular student neighbourhood of Yasamal, west of the Old City and just footsteps from Nazimi Metro Station, this hostel has budget-friendly private rooms with shared bathrooms and comfortable communal spaces for socialising.
MID-RANGE: Centric Baku Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.8). Located just outside the Old City walls close to the National Museum, this modern, stylish hotel has chic rooms with city views. A terrific breakfast is included.
HIGH-END: The Merchant Baku (⭐ 9.6). Located right on the old wall, 600m from the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, this opulent hotel has spacious rooms with private balconies and a gorgeous Silk-Road-inspired cocktail lounge.
Have you travelled by bus in Azerbaijan? Do you have any tips for other travellers? Please leave them in the comments below.
7 things to pack for Azerbaijan
- An anti-theft backpack. As a general rule, Azerbaijan is a very safe place and petty crime against tourists isn’t really an issue. Still, a good anti-theft day pack is worth having to keep your valuables safe in the city. If you’re having trouble deciding, here are a few of my favourite minimalist backpack designs.
- A scarf for visiting mosques (women). A lightweight cotton scarf is my number one travel item. In Azerbaijan, it will come in extra handy for covering your hair when entering a mosque or for draping over your shoulders when visiting a market or a rural area. This neutral travel scarf goes with anything, and it even has a hidden pocket. Remember the dress code in Azerbaijan is quite conservative – women and men alike should avoid shorts and wear pants or a skirt that covers the knees.
- Walking shoes. From the cobbled streets of Sheki to the hills of Baku and the muddy landscape around Gobustan, you’ll likely be spending a lot of time on your feet in Azerbaijan. Comfy walking shoes are absolutely essential.
- A reusable water bottle. Avoid single-use plastics whenever you can. I love my S’Well water bottle for warm climates because it doesn’t sweat.
- Wine Wings. Should you decide to buy a drinkable souvenir in Azerbaijan, these handy custom-made bottle protectors will keep your vino safe and sound in your luggage. A travel corkscrew and a wine stopper are bound to come in handy, too.
- Entertainment for long bus/train journeys. If you don’t suffer motion sickness, an e-reader is great for passing the time on long bus or train journeys. If you have a travel buddy, pick up a headphone splitter – probably my favourite travel gadget of all time – so you can share a screen or a podcast. Check out my full list of essential items to make a long train or bus journey more comfortable.
- Biodegradable wet wipes. Try this convenient travel pack.
Azerbaijan essentials
Here are some of the websites and services I use for planning a trip to Azerbaijan and the Caucasus. Remember to check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.
FLIGHTS: Find affordable flights to Baku on Skyscanner.
VISAS: Use iVisa to check if you need a tourist visa for Azerbaijan and apply for an expedited visa online.
DOCUMENTATION: Use OneWayFly to obtain proof of onward travel/hotel reservation for your visa application.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip with HeyMondo, my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance (use my link for 5% off).
AIRPORT TRANSFER: Pre-book a private transfer from Baku Airport to your hotel.
RENTAL CAR: Use Local Rent to find an affordable rental from a local agent.
ACCOMMODATION: Find the best Azerbaijan hotel deals on Booking.com or book a Baku hostel.
SHORT ON TIME? Get to know Baku on this Old City walking tour, or join this panoramic night tour to see Baku in her best light.
ALI AND NINO: Pick up a copy of Ali and Nino, Azerbaijan’s national novel. I can guarantee that Kurban Said’s evocative descriptions of Baku will get you excited for your trip!
Baku to Tbilisi bus – overland travel in Azerbaijan
More Azerbaijan travel resources
- All the best things to see and do in Baku, Azerbaijan’s capital city
- My best photos of Azerbaijan to inspire your travels
- Plan your trip: The ultimate Caucasus itinerary or an efficient 10-14 day Azerbaijan Georgia itinerary
- How to travel to/from Baku and Georgia by overnight train
- Tips for travelling around Azerbaijan by bus
- Guide to exploring Baku Old City
- The 12 best day trips from Baku
- Why you must visit the Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku
- How to take a day trip from Baku to Gobustan for the mud volcanoes
- Guide to Sheki, Azerbaijan’s most beautiful city
- Guide to Quba, Azerbaijani carpet weaving
- How to spend the night in a Silk Road caravanserai in Azerbaijan
Hi Emily,
do you know if there is still a bus from Qax zu to Tbilisi? If yes, did you go to the bus station to book it? I want to travel from Azerbaijan to Georgia by land and will be around Sheki but unfortunately I don’t find any information about a direct but.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Cheers,
Ben
Hi Ben, there are no buses. The land border is closed in the opposite direction, so drivers would not be able to return to AZ. You need to take a taxi to the border.
Hi Emily,
Very much informative about caucasian region. I am to visit Azerbaijan/Georgia/Armenia in early September 2024.
i checked about Baku-Tblisi train and could not find it on Azerbaijan railway . Is the train still running?
It would be great help to plan my trip.
Thanks & regards/ Irfan
Hi Irfan, no, the train has not been running since 2020. The only way to enter Azerbaijan is to fly.
Hi Emily
A fascinating read.
I’m hoping to travel from Baku to Tbilisi on the 17th June next year as I have a flight at 4:30 am on the 18th. This is the 1st blog I’ve seen where there are buses between Baku and Tbilisi running in the morning as I’ll I’ve seen are 3 buses at 8, 9 &10pm respectively which won’t get me there in time.
So just to confirm there is definitely a regular bus service between the 2 cities?
Kind regards
Gareth
Hi Gareth,
There was when I last travelled – but as you see that was a few years ago now. I was just at the Tbilisi bus station last week, shame I didn’t see your comment sooner or else I could have checked the times. I would say there are definitely still morning services – it’s a popular route. You shouldn’t have any trouble.
Let me know if there’s anything else I can help with!
Cheers,
Emily
Hi Emily!
Big fan of your website here. Hope all’s well back in Australia, and all the moving hassle has not been too overwhelming! My cousins live in Australia so planning a big trip to visit them next year.
Thanks for the great content! Just a quick question: do you know if it’d be possible to do the reverse trip? And if yes where would I be able to access the time table? Thank you very much!
Hi Eric, many thanks!
Do you mean Tbilisi to Baku? Yes, it’s definitely possible. If you want to stop in Sheki on the way, your first bus will be Tbilisi to Qax. I don’t know the exact times (and I can’t find them online), but there should be at least 4 daily buses from around 8am. You can go to the station the day before and ask. From Qax, there are regular vans to Sheki (every 30-60 minutes). From Qax to Baku, there are 4 buses starting from 9am.
I hope this helps!
Thanks so much!
I just did the stretch from Baku to Tblisi by bus via Seki and Qax and I am surprised to find all Information still spot on correct. Even the prices are still the same!
Thanks for the update, Leon! I’m glad to hear that 🙂 Hope you enjoyed AZ!
Thanks Emily for the personal response. I travel really lightly, no computer. But maybe I can get the visa before I leave the U.S. I’ll be traveling for only 2 months and the visa might be good for 3. (I’ve seen 30 days and 90 days in different places, at the eVisa website. Do you know how to get the 90 day visa?). Thanks.
That’s right, Barbara. As far as I know, the 30-day visa is valid for entry up to 90 days from the date it’s issued. Much better to get it before you go!
Thank you so much for all this fantastic information. I plan to go to all 3 Caucuses countries next spring.
I wonder if you could explain the mechanics of uploading the picture of your passport ID page to your Azerbaijan eVisa application. Did you photograph it with your phone? Were you traveling with your own computer or were you able to plug your phone into a computer at an ‘internet cafe’? (do those still exist?)
Hi Barbara,
Fantastic! I’m sure you’ll have the time of your life. I travel with a laptop, yes. I always keep a scanned copy of my passport on my harddrive, so I did it that way. A mobile photo will probably suffice, and you should be able to upload it from your phone if you do your application that way. If you prefer to use a computer, there might be internet cafes (although I don’t remember any specifically), or else perhaps your hotel/guesthouse could assist.
I hope this helps!
Amazing Post! Thanks for sharing and good luck for more amazing posts.
Just wanted to thank you for this great post. Travelling solo and had conflicting info from all over the place on Sheki -Tbilisi journey. I stumbled across your post and it was so clear and nicely laid out that I decided to follow your example. All went very smoothly. Would add, if you take the 08:00 bus to Qax, you have plenty of time to walk to the war memorial down the road and look around before the 10:30 mashrukty. The gardeners were so delighted to have a (foreign) visitor they explained everything to me (didn’t catch a word!) and presented me with flowers!
Hi Lindsay,
Thanks so much for returning to drop a note! I’m glad to hear your journey went smoothly and that my advice came in handy. Great idea to take a walk around Qax—I’ll add your tip to the post for other travellers. What a special experience you had there.
Thanks again, and I hope you had a wonderful trip!
Hi Emily,
Very useful information, thanks.
Now I am at Gabala with my wife and infant, we are planning to go back to baku thru buses, do you recommend us the same?
And when or how many hours the trip will take ?
Regards
Hi Esam,
I didn’t do this route, but hopefully someone can provide you with the info you need. Gabala to Baku by bus is approximately 3.5 hours, but you may have to change buses at some point.
You could also try posting in the Facebook Group ‘travel to eastern europe the balkans and former ussr’.
Best of luck and safe travels!
Hi folks. I am planning on arriving at Baku airport on Thursday, Oct 18th at 22.10 from Aktau in Kazakhstan. Buses and the train seem to both leave for Georgia at 23.50 at the latest. I need to be in Yerevan by Friday night or the very latest Saturday afternoon (marathon on Sunday). My first point is I am concerned whether I could get to the bus or train station on time. Secondly, If not then I would need a bus after 23.50 hours. If I got the bus I would go to the Red Bridge then hitch hike west to the Sadakhlo crossing via Tekali. Then in Armenia I would try to catch a bus to Yerevan. So my main point is the bus connection with times to the Red Bridge border crossing. Any help welcomed.
Hi Terry,
I didn’t do this route, but hopefully someone can provide you with the info you need.
You could also try posting in the Facebook Group ‘travel to eastern europe the balkans and former ussr’.
Best of luck and safe travels!
Hi Kev,
I have done Lahij. It’s very easy, just take a bus to Ismayilli (in fact, I took the Oghuz bus, Ismayilli is on the way to Oghuz) & mention Lahij to the driver (you don’t really need to know the language ;)). The bus will drop you at the road junction to Lahij.
There’ll be taxis waiting at the road junction. I negotiated one for 8 Manat. The young guy who drove me was so good that he even stop many times for me to take photos.
As I stay in Ancient Lahij Guesthouse, he even drove me to the guesthouse.
Hope this helps.
Wendy
Hello Emily,
Thanks for your detailed breakdown. I’m planning a trip in late March 2018, and intend to travel from Baku to Lahij (overnight), and then onward to Sheki (overnight, or two), before heading back to Baku. You’ve mentioned that the Baku-Sheki mashrutkas take about 4 hours+. Do you know if the reverse, Sheki-Baku, is also true, and what time they set out at? Also, any tips on public transport to Lahic? In some places on the internet, there’s mention of “renting” out a local driver, including for longer distances like Baku-Sheki, for a relatively modest fee (and not $100 and over). There isn’t much to this claim is there?
Thanks so much,
Kev
Hi Kev! Thanks so much for your comment.
I would assume that Sheki to Baku takes a similar length of time, as the vans travel on the same road. I’m not sure about the exact timing or frequency, but it is quite a popular route, so I assume they are fairly frequent. I guess most vans doing the Baku to Sheki route will return to Baku eventually—and those leave every hour or so, as a rough guide. There is a very helpful tourist information office in Sheki (inside the Palace complex)—they will surely be able to give you a timetable, if you can wait until you’re there.
As for Lahic and car hire, I didn’t look into it myself, but that price sounds a little too low. I think there is info about public transport in the Lonely Planet. I would be interested to know the fee, so please do let me know if you find out.
I hope this helps! Have a wonderful trip!
Hi Emily – Really nice information. I am planning this route for June/18.
When you say, ‘you have to get out of the van and walk’, does that mean just to cross the border or do we have to arrange another transportation on the Georgia side?
As far a enjoying the region, what stops would you recommend between Baku and Tbilisi? Just Sheki (for how long?)? Or there is any other town you visited? Assuming Qax stop is just for the bus!
Hi Joao! Thanks for your comment. Sorry if that was unclear—yes, you just walk through the border crossing and re-board your (same) minibus on the other side.
We also did a short trip to Quba from Baku. I’ve heard that Lahic is a nice place as well, but unfortunately we didn’t make it this time. Sheki was wonderful—don’t miss it. I recommend at least two nights (at the Karvansaray Hotel if you can get a room: http://wander-lush.org/sleeping-in-sheki-karvansaray-hotel/).
And yes, Qax was just for the bus—although I do hear there are things to see there if you want to stay longer!
Have a wonderful trip!
Hi Emily,
Thank you for the detailed description of your journey which is so important to independent travellers like me.
I’ll be taking the same route like you – Sheki-Qax-Tbilisi this coming March 2018. Can I know whether there is anywhere I can change some Georgian Lari along the route?
Thanks in advance.
Wendy
Hi Wendy! Thanks for your message. We exchanged our leftover AZN for Lari once we crossed the border into Georgia. After you walk through immigration (you have to get out of the van and walk), there is a currency exchange desk and a small food shop. It probably wasn’t the best rate in the world, but it was convenient.
I hope this helps! Have a wonderful trip!
It definitely helps! Thanks a lot, Emily!
Thanks for the info… I took a marshrutka this morning at 8 from Baku and arrived here in Sheki just after 12. Nice easy trip, though there was no room at all for my backpack, which wasn’t very large. I think that had I arrived earlier, it would have gone in the back. In the end I had to pay for the pack to ‘take its own seat’. Not that anyone spoke English at the station, but that’s what was agreed upon. 14 AZN for the two of us to travel…
Thanks for the update, Billy! Good to know the drive time and fares are still the same — but sorry to hear about your bag! At least you got a bit of extra leg room, I hope!
Enjoy Sheki!
Hi,
Thanks for all the useful info.
I also intend to travel by bus or shared taxi between Baku and Sheki.
Did you take the bus from the main station? Do you remember the frequency of departure to that destination? How come it only took 4 hours when every site states it takes 6 hours?
Do you know where to take any shared taxi?
Cheers
Hi Arno,
Thanks a lot. Yes, we took a marshrutka from the main station in Baku. Destinations are marked by signs, so you can head straight to the Sheki section. I can’t say for sure how frequently they were leaving, but at least hourly. When we arrived in the morning (around 9am) there was one bus pulling out and another filling up. Maybe we had a good run? I don’t know. The trip was nice and quick for us. Google Maps puts the journey at around 4 hours so I guess we got lucky. You can also take a shared taxi from the bus station in Baku – I would just ask the drivers heading to Sheki, or go downstairs to the taxi area and ask there.
Good luck!
Hey bro ! Thanks for this good information it will help a lot of us but please in Qax it s easy to find the main station and the bus for tbilissi ? I Will be there on end of august merci mec !,
Hi Denis, glad to help!
Yes, Qax is a small town and there is only one bus station – just ask for the ‘avtovagzal’ and they will point you in the right direction. There is a ticket counter inside and the family that owns the cafe are very helpful (although no English). If you tell them Tbilisi, they will assist you to find the right bus. (Note that it drops into the station, doesn’t depart from Qax, so it can be late.)
Happy travels and enjoy Azerbaijan!
I verify the above information! Just took the bus at 1300 leaving Qax to Tbilisi, arriving at 1700. Thank you for this information! Have a great trip!!
Good to hear, Cherry! Thanks and safe travels.
Hi!
Thank you for this post! I am currently at Qax and I need to get out from here at sunday. Do you know maybe if at sunday hours of buses to Tbilisi are the same as for working day?
Thank you again! 😀
The bus times are posted up at the station (inside the waiting room near the counter) – I don’t remember there being different times for different days, so you should be safe! They have a counter at Qax so you could double check there. Good luck and safe travels!
I hope to use this information one day. Buses are a wonderful means of getting to know a culture.
I agree! It’s always nice to travel overland and meet your fellow passengers.