Cambodia Off the Beaten Track: 12 Special Places to Visit in 2024

12 unique and alternative destinations for travellers who want to get off the beaten track in Cambodia. Includes Angkor alternatives, lesser-visited beaches and islands, and Cambodia’s best small towns.

Having officially reopened to international tourists on November 15, there’s never been a better time to visit Cambodia.

Not only is this your chance to experience Phnom Penh like a local and explore Angkor Wat without the crowds, it’s also an opportunity to venture off the beaten path to discover Cambodia’s hidden corners – and support rural tourism and ecotourism projects in the process.

It’s no secret that Cambodia is one of my favourite countries in the world. After a year living in Phnom Penh, I travel back as often as I can. I’ve been lucky enough to visit all four corners, including many alternative destinations that tourists tend to skip.

This list brings together 12 of my absolute favourite places to visit in Cambodia for travellers who want to get off the beaten track.

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Map of unique places to visit in Cambodia

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12 places to visit in Cambodia off the beaten track

1. Kampong Cham, Cambodia’s Best small city

Kampong Cham is my favourite city in Cambodia and one of my favourite places on earth. A small and slow-paced city on the Mekong river, a few hours north of Phnom Penh, Kampong Cham is a total contrast to the capital. Or perhaps a window onto what Phnom Penh was like a few decades ago.

Adjust to the same peaceful pace as the ambling river as you visit the morning market and eat a traditional breakfast of soul-nourishing Kuy Teav noodle soup. Hike a bicycle to explore the charming shophouses along the riverside, then cross the new bridge to Bamboo Island and the ‘French Lighthouse’.

Banteay Prei Nokor, a ‘temple within a temple’ that dates back to the reign of Jayavarman VII is a short ride away, along with Phnom Srey and Phnom Bros, two twin pagodas atop small hills. When the day is done, find a table at one of the cute restaurants on the riverfront or grab a cold beer at the colourful night market.

• Get there: Minivan or private taxi from Phnom Penh (2.5-3.5 hours).
• Where to stay: LBN Asian Hotel (basic/comfortable hotel rooms in the centre of the city) or Hanchey Bamboo Resort (ecotourism resort near Kampong Cham).
• Don’t miss: Smile Restaurant, a social enterprise run by the BSDA Buddhist Society.
• Further reading: My complete guide to visiting Kampong Cham.

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2. Banteay Chhmar, an amazing Angkor alternative

Located north-west of Siem Reap and Angkor, close to the Thai border, Banteay Chhmar is one of Cambodia’s true treasures. The main moated citadel complex was constructed in the 12th century and predates Angkor. Nine more ‘satellite’ temples radiate from the main sanctuary, each with its own exquisite sandstone sculptures and friezes depicting battle scenes and vignettes from the royal court.

What makes Banteay Chhmar so special is that it was almost lost to time. For 800 years the complex lay abandoned. Looters spirited away most of the valuable objects, reducing the pagodas to rubble. In recent years, restoration on the temples has seen many of the walls and structures meticulously rebuilt stone by stone. This led to Banteay Chhmar being declared a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Banteay Chhmar CBT, a unique community tourism initiative, has established a network of homestays in the villages (there are no hotels in the area) and trains English-speaking guides. They can also organise meals and traditional music performances on the temple grounds. A new initiative allows guests to camp overnight in special tents inside the ruins.

Overall it’s a much more intimate experience than anything you can find at Angkor, all the while supporting local families to make a living and ultimately contributing to the restoration of this precious archaeological site.

• Get there: Private transfer from Siem Reap (3-4 hours) or from Sisophon (2 hours).
• Where to stay: Banteay Chhmar CBT homestay or glamping.
• Don’t miss: Mebon Temple, a small temple set on an island and accessed via a long wooden bridge.

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3. Kirirom National Park, a Cardamom Mountains retreat near Phnom Penh

The perfect destination for a green day trip from Phnom Penh or an overnight hiking adventure, Kirirom National Park on the edge of the Cardamom Mountains is just 100km from the capital (3.5 hours by road).

Cambodia’s first national park, Kirirom stretches over the eastern part of the Cardamoms and takes in numerous forested walking trails, lakes and waterfalls. Maps are available at the Information Centre.

Chambok commune, a set of villages within the park, is home to one of Cambodia’s leading community based ecotourism projects. They operate a woman-led restaurant and 42 homestays across nine villages.

For something more luxe, Bensley Collection – Shinta Mani Wild is a gorgeous eco-resort set in the treetops on the park’s western periphery. Indoor-outdoor suites are sublimely decorated and open out directly over a river and cascades.

• Get there: Taxi or private transfer from Phnom Penh (3.5 hours).
• Where to stay: Shinta Mani Wild.

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4. Kratie, dolphin watching & Mekong sunsets

I left a piece of my heart in Cambodia’s upper Mekong region, where the river is wide enough to accommodate small islands and the setting sun puts on a splendid show every evening.

The town of Kratie is famously home to pods of Irrawaddy dolphins. There are thought to be only a few dozen individuals of this severely endangered species left in the wild today. Boat trips to spot the extremely elusive and mysteriously beautiful creatures depart from upriver in Kampi.

Further north along the river in Sambour, you can find the amazing 100-Column Pagoda, with its sea of pillars and vividly painted Buddhist frescoes. The walk up to Phnom Sambok Pagoda via a forest path lined with Buddha statues is also worth the detour.

• Get there: Minivan, coach or private taxi from Phnom Penh (5-6 hours).
• Where to stay: Sorya Guesthouse, trendy hotel in the centre with outdoor terraces and river views in Kratie, or Le Relais de Chhlong, a gorgeous boutique hotel inside a heritage colonial building downriver in Chhlong.
• Don’t miss: Eating Kralan, a Kratie specialty snack of sticky rice with coconut milk and soybean cooked inside bamboo.
• Further reading: My complete guide to visiting Kratie.

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5. Kampong Thom, pre-Angkorian temples & small-town feels

Located halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Kampong Thom is often considered a place to stop for a snack on your way between Cambodia’s two most popular cities. Don’t underestimate this rural province, though: When it comes to archaeological sites, Kampong Thom packs a punch.

The citadel ruins at Prasat Preah Khan of Kampong Svay are nothing short of awe-inspiring. Nestled deep in the forest, the archaeological site was off-limits to all but the most intrepid tourists for decades. Now a new road makes it easier than ever to get there.

A second temple, Sambor Prei Kuk, is more well-known but no less beautiful. Dating back to the 6th century, it comprises no fewer than 150 Hindu temples and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The province’s biggest city, Krong Stueng Saen, is the ideal base for exploring this region and features a lovely market and gridded streets that lead down to the Stung Seng river. It’s conveniently located just off the main east-west highway.

• Get there: Minivan or taxi from Phnom Penh (3.5 hours).
• Where to stay: Sambour Village Hotel, a boutique resort with a pool in Krong Stueng Saen.

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6. Tatai Leu & Koh Kong, a fast-changing corner of Cambodia

Cambodia’s south-western Koh Kong province is one of the most ecologically rich and biodiverse corners of the country, with forested mountains, a resort-free stretch of coastline, and thick mangrove forests in between.

In this region you can find Botum Sakor National Park (Cambodia’s largest protected area), Koh Kong island with its beautiful west-facing beaches, and Tatai Leu, a wild landscape of mud flats and waterfalls.

I visited Koh Kong in 2016 when it was still undeveloped. Nowadays, this part of Cambodia is rapidly changing with the construction of an international airport and hotels to cater to local tourists (the Thai border is a mere 10km from the main city of Koh Kong AKA Krong Khemara Phoumin).

If it goes ahead, a new hydropower project will undoubtedly change this landscape forever, as will the deep water port that’s been built for cruise ships (gasp!). Bottom line: Get here quick before Koh Kong becomes the next Sihanoukville.

• Get there: Minivan or private taxi from Phnom Penh (6+ hours).
• Where to stay: Canvas & Orchids Retreat, overwater eco-luxury tents in Tatai.

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7. Battambang, Cambodia’s artistic capital

Cambodia’s third-largest city, Battambang, is the nation’s unofficial cultural and artistic capital. In the 1960s and 70s before the brutal Khmer Rouge period, many of Cambodia’s finest visual artists, singers and musicians called Battambang home, including vocalist Ros Serey Sothea, AKA ‘The Golden Voice Queen Of Cambodia’, and Cambodian pop pioneer, Sinn Sisamouth, AKA the ‘King of Khmer Music’.

Their legacy lives on in the dozens of indie art galleries and performance spaces that dot Battambang today (my favourite is Romcheik 5).

There is so much going on in Battambang, it really is one of the best places to visit in Cambodia and a city that deserves more attention than it gets. Some of Asia’s most handsome French colonial architecture can be found along the riverfront, best explored by bicycle. There are some excellent social enterprises in town including Jaan Bai restaurant, Cafe Kinyei, and several souvenir shops. And this is the home of the wonderful Phare Circus.

Beyond the centre, there are more touristy attractions such as the ‘Killing Cave’ and the iconic (but very naff) Bamboo Railway. There’s even a winery in Battambang, the only vineyard in Cambodia.

• Get there: Minivan from Phnom Penh (5.5 hours) or minivan/bus from Siem Reap (3 hours).
• Where to stay: The Sanctuary Villa, gorgeous leafy resort with a pool and bicycle hire.
• Don’t miss: The rooftop cafe at Romchek 5.
• Further reading: My complete guide to visiting Battambang.

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8. Kampong Chhnang, clay pottery & floating villages

Kampong Chhnang sits at the mouth of the Tonle Sap lake, on the edge of the mighty Tonle Sap river – the only river on earth that changes its course part-way through the year, flushing life-giving waters and fish into the lake. Life here is precarious and far from idyllic, yet the landscape is beautiful and people are warm and welcoming, as is typical of Cambodia.

The main reason to come to Kampong Chhnang is to take a boat trip through several large floating villages on the river and lake. This area receives a fraction of the tourists that popular Chong Khneas near Siem Reap sees, making the experience much more tranquil and dare I say, authentic.

Kampong Chhnang’s other claim to fame are its clay pots (chhnang means ‘pot’ in Khmer). You know those huge water vessels you see out the front of every home in rural Cambodia? Well they were probably made here by artisans who’ve been throwing red clay for generations. Today there are small workshops you can visit to see the pots being built.

• Get there: Minivan/private taxi from Phnom Penh (2.5-3 hours).
• Where to stay: Garden Guest House, cute family run accommodation in the centre with helpful staff and a free breakfast.

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9. Takeo, Off the beaten track in Cambodian rice country

Located south of Phnom Penh towards the coast, Takeo province is the green heart of rural Cambodia and true rice country. Verdant paddies stretch out as far as the eye can see, only interrupted by the occasional palm tree.

Here you’ll find yet more beautiful temples that pre-date Angkor Wat. The first, Angkor Borei, is one of the most important but lesser-visited archaeological sites in Cambodia. Dating back to 400 BC, it is home to the earliest known dated inscriptions in Khmer writing.

Once the Angkorian capital, the 740-acre site still has its deep moats and defensive walls. The whole area is flooded for up to six months of the year, thus during the rainy season, the site can only be accessed by boat. Don’t miss the Angkor Borei Museum: Set inside a beautiful old Buddhist temple, it catalogues objects unearthed in the area during digs.

Phnom Chisor is an 11th century Brahman temple set atop Chi So mountain. The sandstone galleries, 60 metres long in some parts, are beyond elegant. Finally, built later in the 12th-13th centuries, Ta Prohm (not to be confused with the temple of the same name near Siem Reap) features intricate narrative bas-relief carvings depicting snippets from daily life and celestial scenes.

Top it off with lunch in a bungalow by Tonle Bati lake or a home-cooked meal at the Meas Family Homestay.

• Get there: Train or minivan (2 hours) from Phnom Penh.
• Where to stay: Meas Family Homestay, comfortable homestay set inside the Cambodian Weaving Village social enterprise.

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10. Kampot, riverside relaxation

Kampot ties with Kampong Cham for my favourite place in Cambodia. The secret of this not-so-sleepy riverside city is definitely out, and it’s not as off-the-beaten-track as it was a few short years ago. Still, it’s a gem in my eyes and a place you should devote as much time as humanly possible to.

This is the ultimate slow-paced, slow travel experience. Spend your days kayaking in the river or indulging in a massage at social enterprise Banteay Srey Women’s Spa. Wander the waterfront to admire beautiful French-era buildings such as the old Fish Market, visit small galleries and the wonderful regional museum.

Kampot has the best restaurant scene in Cambodia outside of Phnom Penh, with amazing Khmer offerings and a gamut of international cuisines to choose from (including the best authentic Italian in Southeast Asia).

Most chefs naturally make liberal use of famous Kampot Peppercorns and salt. Cycling through the saltpans in the early morning is one of my favourite things to do in Cambodia. You should also tour a pepper farm to learn more about this iconic crop that was one of Cambodia’s biggest exports during colonial times.

• Get there: Minivan/coach from Phnom Penh (3 hours).
• Where to stay: Hotel Old Cinema, boutique accommodation inside a restored French cinema house (read my review here). See more options in my detailed Kampot accommodation guide.
• Further reading: 41 things to do in Kampot.

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11. Kep & Koh Tonsay, quiet beaches & crab markets

Trust me when I tell you to Skip Sihanoukville and the islands off southern Cambodia’s coast. Instead, I recommend the town of Kep, a short taxi or boat ride from Kampot, and Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) just off the coast.

Though still touristy, Kep has a more local feel and a row of white-sand, palm-lined beaches that are quite pleasant indeed. The shoreline on Rabbit Island is even more pristine.

Of course beaches aren’t the only thing Kep is famous for: Most people come here for the food. Visit Kep Crab Market to shop for fresh crabs pulled straight from the sea, doused with local pepper and cooked to perfection.

Away from the beach, Kep National Park offers shady trails and lookout points for spectacular views of the coast.

• Get there: Tuk-tuk/taxi from Kampot (30 minutes).
• Where to stay: Sabbay Kep, self-contained bungalows near the beach.

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12. Mondulkiri & Ratanakiri, Remote northern Cambodia off the beaten track

To get well and truly off the beaten path in Cambodia, head north north north to what is indisputably the most remote part of the country. Ratanakiri, the last province before the Lao border, hugs Laos and Southern Vietnam. Mondulkiri is a little easier to reach from Phnom Penh but feels just as remote. If you come all this way, it makes sense to visit both areas, basing yourself in Banlung in Ratanakiri and in Sen Monorom in Mondulkiri.

Both provinces feature amazing landscapes of waterfalls, forests and glassy lakes. This part of Cambodia is extremely diverse and home to many ethnic groups, including the Bunong. Homestays and ecotourism projects organised with the community contribute to local conservation and wildlife protection while providing people with a much-needed source of income through tourism.

The Kiris are paradise, but beneath the surface, the blights of illegal logging and environmental degradation have led to both the wildlife and local people suffering tremendously. Initiatives such as the Elephant Valley Project have stepped in as a safety net for the animals and provide a sustainable source of income for locals. They offer both day-visit and overnight packages where you can safely and ethically interact with elephants rescued from the logging trade.

• Get there: Minivan/coach from Phnom Penh (9+ hours).
• Where to stay: Elephant Valley Project.
• Don’t miss: Hiking to Yak Loam lake, a perfectly round waterhole in the middle of the forest near Banlung (Ratanakiri).

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Further reading for Cambodia

• Cambodia packing list, handy things to pack for Cambodia
• 1-3 day itinerary for Phnom Penh
• Where to stay in Phnom Penh
• 12 best day trips from Phnom Penh
• The best Khmer restaurants in Phnom Penh
• Where to eat breakfast in Phnom Penh and where to find the best coffee in Phnom Penh
• 51 free things to do in Phnom Penh
• Resort style swimming pools in Phnom Penh
• How to use PassApp to book a tuk tuk in Cambodia
• 41 things to do in Kampot
• Where to stay in Kampot
• How to buy tickets for Angkor Wat
• Best Siem Reap tours for every budget and interest
• My guide to Battambang, Cambodia’s cultural capital
• My guide to Kampong Cham, northern Cambodia’s most charming town
• My guide to Kratie, home of Cambodia’s best sunset!