Everything you need to plan a visit to Vardzia, Georgia’s oldest and most impressive cave city.
Along with Uplistsikhe and David Gareja, Vardzia is one of Georgia’s most iconic cave sites. I visit Vardzia at least once a year, and it only gets more impressive each time.
Because of its relatively remote location in Samtskhe-Javakheti (a 4-5 hour drive from both Tbilisi and Kutaisi), visiting Vardzia does require some advance planning. The site itself is well-organised, but there are a few practical details that are easy to miss, including seasonal opening hours, the proper dress code, and the best way to navigate the caves.
This Vardzia Cave Monastery guide is updated for this year and brings together everything you need to plan your visit – including current ticket prices, transport tips, updates on the recent rockfall and tunnel closure, and where to eat and stay nearby.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Quick Vardzia visitor guide
- Best time to go: May/June or September/October; early morning
- Opening hours: 10am-5/6/7pm depending on the season (see below)
- Time needed: 2-3 hours
- Tickets: 15 GEL
- Audio guide: 15 GEL
- Shuttle bus: 2 GEL
- Dress code: Modest dress for the church
- Difficulty: Moderate – lots of stairs, tunnels, and uneven paths
- Best base: Akhaltsikhe or Vardzia/Tmogvi (overnight recommended)
- Nearby add-ons: Khertvisi Fortress, Akhaltsikhe & Saro

Is Vardzia worth visiting?
Yes – Vardzia is absolutely worth visiting, provided you have enough time in your Georgia itinerary to do it properly.
The cave monastery is every bit as impressive in person as it is in photos: A vast 12th-century complex carved into the side of a cliff, with tunnels, terraces, wine cellars, chapels and hidden frescoes. It is one of Georgia’s most iconic historic sites, and in my opinion, one of the most memorable places you can visit in the country.
But Vardzia does require some level of commitment. It sits in a relatively remote part of Southern Georgia, at least 4-5 hours by road from both Tbilisi and Kutaisi. Visiting Vardzia as a day trip means a lot of time in the car, and is almost impossible to do with shared transport. An organised tour or private driver is definitely the way to go (more details below).


As impressive as Vardzia is, it’s just the beginning when it comes to the spectacular Meskheti region. The cave monastery is obviously the headline act, but the surrounding area is incredibly special: Dramatic gorges, ruined castles, hot springs, megalithic fortresses, and some of the most beautiful driving in Georgia. Staying overnight near the caves will give you more time to enjoy the region, and allows you visit Vardzia before the tour groups arrive.
If you only have a few days in Georgia or if you are travelling on a tight budget, Uplistsikhe or David Gareja might be a more practical choice. Both are much easier to reach from Tbilisi. But if you have the time and you want to experience one of Georgia’s most underrated regions, Vardzia is worth the journey.
What is Vardzia? A short history of the cave monastery
Inhabited since the Bronze Age and developed into a sophisticated monastic and defensive site between the 11th and 13th centuries, Vardzia is a massive complex of man-made caves hewn from the sheer rock wall of Erusheti mountain. It teeters over the Mtkvari River in the south-western part of Georgia, close to the Armenian and Turkish borders.
Vardzia was first conceived by King Giorgi III as a place where villagers could take shelter in the face of enemy raids. It was originally designed to accommodate up to 50,000 people for this purpose.
Vardzia flourished during the reign of Georgia’s legendary female monarch, Queen (or King) Tamar, who reimagined the complex as a self-sufficient city rather than just a place for temporary shelter.
Legend says the duo gave the site its name: Vardzia sounds like ak var, dzia, or ‘I am here, uncle’, a phrase apparently uttered by a young Tamar after she got lost in the caves.
Tamar, who is remembered in a rare wall fresco inside the chapel, even had her own room at Vardzia. But but she never lived here full-time – a woman would not have been permitted to live inside the monastery – she only sheltered here once, along with other women and children, during a particularly vicious invasion.

A recent 3D-scan of the site revealed around 641 separate chambers spread over 13 levels, stretching for some 500 metres along the cliff face. Nestled deep in the belly of the rock, the caves are connected by a labyrinth of tunnels (some more than 150 metres long), staircases and terraces.
It’s huge – yet what you see today is just a tiny fraction of the original Vardzia.
And one of the coolest things is that different sections are constantly being excavated, unearthing new treasures. On one of my visits, I saw a collection of clay qvevri that had previously been buried under sand and had only just been revealed.
At its zenith, the complex had more than 6,000 rooms on 19 levels that served all kinds of purposes – as sleeping quarters for the 200 resident monks, as defensive structures, chapels and apothecaries. There were at least 25 wine cellars plus a nunnery on the upper level.

In 1283, an earthquake destroyed most of the complex, shaving away half of the cliff to reveal the site’s inner workings. Ottoman invasions saw the caves and the precious manuscripts they held burned to a crisp. Shepherds then started using the caves for shelter, which is why most of the rock chambers are blackened inside.
Vardzia was completely abandoned in the 16th century and left untouched until excavations began in the Soviet era. In 1988, the monks moved back in, and today there are a handful of monks living at Vardzia.
Vardzia practical information for 2026
Vardzia opening hours
Vardzia is open every day, Monday through Sunday.
Opening hours change by season. In summer, the site usually stays open until 7pm; in winter, it closes earlier at 5pm.
- March 1–April 30: 10am-6pm
- May 1–September 30: 10am-7pm
- October 1–November 14: 10am-6pm
- November 15–February 28/29: 10 am-5 pm
I recommend arriving at least two hours before closing time so you have enough time to follow the one-way route through the caves without rushing.
Heritage Sites in Georgia are generally closed on national holidays, but because Vardzia contains an active Orthodox Church and monastery, it sometimes stays open for the liturgy on important religious days such as Orthodox Easter Sunday and Orthodox Christmas.
If your visit does fall on a religious holiday, it’s best to confirm opening times in advance. I suggest contacting the Tourist Information Office in Akhaltsikhe.

Ticket prices, audio guide & shuttle
Entrance to Vardzia costs 15 GEL for adults. Children under 6 years old enter for free. There are no student or senior discounts. You do not need your passport or ID card to buy tickets.
Tickets are sold at the small office at the bottom of the hill, near the carpark. Cash and card are normally accepted, but since there is no ATM here, you might want to carry some cash just in case.
There are two optional extras: An audio guide, which costs 15 GEL, and a short shuttle bus to the cave entrance, which costs 2 GEL per person. The shuttle saves you the uphill walk from the ticket office to the start of the cave route – always worth it in my opinion, especially in summer, since there is already plenty of walking and stair-climbing involved once you are inside.
The audio guide is handy if you are visiting independently because there is no signage inside Vardzia. The audio guide follows a sequential route, with numbered signs marking the different spots to listen in.
The audio guide is a small device on a lanyard with a built-in speaker rather than earphones, so one can be shared between two people.
Temporary closures & restoration works
Vardzia is an active heritage site, and not every part of the complex is open at all times. Certain caves, tunnels and pathways are sometimes closed for safety reasons, conservation work or restoration.
In May 2026, a rockfall near the so-called Secret Tunnel damaged part of the footpath and safety barrier. As a result, the final exit tunnel was temporarily closed, and visitors had to turn around and walk back through the complex to exit, rather than following the usual one-way route. This was still the case when I last visited Vardzia in June 2026.


Best season to visit Vardzia
Vardzia is busiest during the summer high season, from late June through September. This is when you’re most likely to encounter large tour groups – and it is also very, very hot. If you are sensitive to heat, I would avoid visiting in July or August.
For the best landscape colours and fewer crowds, I recommend visiting in either late spring or autumn. Late May is especially beautiful, when the riverbanks around Vardzia are covered with red poppies and wildflowers, and the whole gorge shines green. Late September and October are also lovely, with softer light, cooler temperatures, and autumn colours in the surrounding hills.
The road to the caves stays open in winter, and it can be very atmospheric in the off-season, especially if there is snow on the cliffs. Just keep in mind that the paths and stairs inside the complex will be very slippery in icy conditions, and the site closes earlier in winter.
Best time of day to visit Vardzia
The best time to visit Vardzia is right at opening time. On my most recent visit, the first tour groups started arriving around 10.30-11am, so getting there for 10am gives you a head start and lets you enjoy the first part of the route before the narrow paths and staircases get crowded.
As the first wave of groups move through, the site tends to become quieter again around midday. In July and August, though, I would avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day (around 3pm-5pm) – there is very little shade on the exposed sections of the route, and the heat reflecting off the rock is intense.
Vardzia’s cliff face is south-facing, and the rock often looks better in the warm afternoon light. If you can stand the heat, you might wish to stay until closing time. More photo tips below!
How long to spend at Vardzia
While you could speed through Vardzia in as little as 45 minutes, you should budget at least 2 hours to walk through the caves at a steady pace. If you opt for the audio guide, you’ll need around 3 hours.
When it’s crowded, there tends to be bottlenecks at the tunnels and the church, so it may take a little longer to get around.

Is Vardzia difficult to visit? Stairs, tunnels & accessibility
Vardzia is not a difficult hike, but it is not an easy walk either. The cave complex is spread over several levels, and walking around involves a lot of narrow stairs, uneven rock paths, narrow tunnels, and a few steep, exposed sections along the cliff face.
The main route through Vardzia is designed for visitors and is generally straightforward if you have a reasonable level of fitness. That said, you do need to watch your step. Some of the staircases are quite steep, the rock can be slippery in wet weather, and the tunnels are low and narrow.
If you are afraid of heights or claustrophobic, there are a couple of sections you might find challenging.
Unfortunately, Vardzia is not wheelchair accessible and I would not recommend it for anyone with serious mobility issues. If you are travelling with young children, keep a close eye on them around the stairs, ledges and tunnel entrances as safety barricades are not always in place.
For most visitors, Vardzia is very manageable as long as you wear proper shoes.
What to wear
First and foremost, wear comfortable shoes with good grip. Sun protection is also important. If rain is forecast, bring a light jacket or umbrella.
There is no strict dress code for walking around the wider cave complex, but please remember that Vardzia is an active monastery and visitors are expected to dress respectfully.
In order to go inside the Church of the Dormition, the small chapel at the heart of the complex, men should wear long pants, and women should wear a long skirt and cover their hair before entering. Scarves are available at the church door, but I recommend carrying your own.
Every time I visit Vardzia, I see someone ignoring the rules. Please don’t be that person! Dress modestly, cover up before entering the church, keep your voice down, and remember that this is a functioning religious site.
What to bring with you
Walking around the caves is thirsty work, especially in summer, so be sure to bring water with you. There are several spring water fountains on the pathway to the entrance, plus there is a small shop inside the complex (just past the church) where you can purchase cold drinks, ice creams and snacks. Bring cash.
A headlamp is not essential, but it can be useful. Some of the tunnels and caves are quite dark, and while a phone torch is usually enough, a headlamp might be handy if you want to keep your hands free for photos.
There is a so-called ‘chewing gum tree’ at Vardzia where visitors stick gum to the trunk to make a wish. Please don’t bring gum for this, and don’t leave any other rubbish in the area. Use the bins provided and help keep the site clean.

Photography & drone rules
Non-commercial photography and videography is allowed throughout the complex, but photos are not permitted inside the Church of the Dormition.
At the end of the walking route, you pass close to the monks’ living quarters. These areas are not open to the public, and I don’t recommend photographing them.
I have not seen any ‘no drone’ signs at Vardzia, and I have flown my own drone here several times. That said, Vardzia is a protected heritage site and an active monastery, so please use common sense. Don’t fly close to the church or the monks’ quarters.
For landscape photos, the best views of Vardzia are from across the river rather than from inside the complex itself. This is also my preferred place to fly a drone. More details below.
How to get to Vardzia
Vardzia is located in southern Georgia’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region, around 225 kilometres from Tbilisi and 60 kilometres from Akhaltsikhe, the nearest major town.
Because of its isolated location, Vardzia does require a bit of planning. It can be visited as a long day trip from Tbilisi or Kutaisi, but if your itinerary allows, I recommend staying overnight in Akhaltsikhe, Tmogvi, or near the caves. This gives you time to visit Vardzia early in the morning and see more of the surrounding region.
There are several ways to get to Vardzia:
- Organised tour: The easiest option from Tbilisi or Kutaisi. Most day tours combine Vardzia with Akhaltsikhe Fortress and Borjomi. This tour from Tbilisi is my top pick.
- Private driver: The most flexible option, especially if you want to stop at Khertvisi Fortress and other points of interest along the way. I recommend using GoTrip for this route.
- Public transport: Travelling by marshrutka van is only really practical if you overnight in Akhaltsikhe. Bus schedules are limited, and same-day public transport transfers are too tight.
- Self-driving: The main road from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia is sealed and easy to navigate in a regular sedan. I recommend renting through Local Rent.
Note that there are two Vardzias in Georgia! If you are using Google Maps, make sure you navigate to the cave monastery near Aspindza – not the village of Vardzia near Zestafoni in Imereti.
For detailed route instructions, marshrutka times, more tour options and suggested driving itineraries from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi, Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe, see my dedicated Vardzia Transport Guide.

What to see inside Vardzia
There is one main route through Vardzia that you can use to navigate the complex from the entrance to the exit. This route is technically one-way, but there are no strict rules and you are free to double-back or deviate from the path (over unfenced sections only) whenever you wish. A good tip is to follow the numbered audio guide signs if you want to see all the main points of interest.
Once you’re done, you normally exit down a long flight of partially covered stairs. At the bottom, there is a long, flat walking path that traces the entire length of the caves to take you back down to the ticket booth and carpark.
The Bell Tower
The first structure you come to as you enter the complex, the Bell Tower juts out from the cliff face and offers stunning views of the caves stretched out before you. It was constructed post-earthquake. The heavy bell that once hung here was stolen during a Mongol invasion, along with gilded manuscripts and other treasures.
Church of the Dormition & Queen Tamar fresco
The spiritual centre of Vardzia, this stone chapel has a soaring 30-foot ceiling plastered with colourful Medieval frescoes. Most notably, the church interior features a painting of Tamar Mepe – one of only four in Georgia, and the only one in the country where she is depicted as an unmarried woman without the customary headdress. You can also see faded frescoes on the church’s exterior.
There is a full-colour reproduction of the famous Queen Tamar fresco at the Samtskhe-Javakheti History Museum inside the grounds of Akhaltsikhe Castle.

Tamar’s Tears & tunnel
This spot is easy to miss – just to the left of the church door, near the scarves, there is a second prayer chamber. Go up to the left, and you will come to a natural spring in the rock known as Tamar’s Tears. According to tradition, this spring supplied water to Vardzia during times of siege.
The actual spring is blocked off with perspex. Pilgrims can fill their bottles with the healing holy water from a special container nearby.
Back at the chapel, follow the second set of small stairs to reach the reach crypt. Straight ahead you will see the entrance to a tunnel. The roof is low, so you need to duck down, and the tunnel is on an incline – but it’s not too steep and well-lit. Walk about 2-3 minutes through the tunnel to reach a wide open cave space. Exit here, and you will be back near the entrance to the church, where you can rejoin the tourist route without having missed anything.
Refectory
One of the first cave chambers you come to on the path. You can clearly see bench seating carved from stone along the two opposing walls (the arrangement ensured that no monk had his back to another person). The rounded holes in the floor are the remains of bread ovens; the narrow channel was used to direct smoke from the wood fire.


Apothecary
Located on one of the upper levels and visible from the path, the apothecary was used to make and store tinctures. You can clearly see the little nook shelves hewn from the rock where the glass bottles must have sat.
The Museum of Medicine in Tbilisi has a great display dedicated to Vardzia and the herbal medicines of the era, including a recreation of the apothecary.
Wine cellars & terraced vineyards
Vardzia had at least 25 wine cellars in its heyday, and you can still see the necks of clay amphora embedded in some of the stone floors.
Monks produced up to 80 tonnes of wine using grapes cultivated on steep terraces, a method traditional to this area. Much of the wine went to soldiers as they passed through the area on their way to the battlefront.
On the path up to the caves from the carpark, you will see grape vines planted on the hillside. This technique of terraced stonewall vineyards is very typical of this region and was developed as a way to tame the rocky, steep river valley terrain.
Clay pipes
Vardzia had a sophisticated irrigation system to channel drinking water down to the lower levels. Remains of clay water pipes embedded in some of the walls are among the oldest relics at Vardzia, dating to the 12th century.
Where to get a view of Vardzia
The intricacies of Vardzia are a treat to explore close-up, but it’s difficult to appreciate the sheer scale of the complex when you’re inside it.
To get a good overview of the caves from afar, you should stop off at the viewpoint on the opposite bank of the river. There is a big open area where you can safely pull over for photos of the caves straight-on. If you have a drone, this is a great place to take off.
View the exact location here on Google Maps.

Where to eat near Vardzia
There are a few cafes located inside the Vardzia carpark. The location on the river is actually quite pleasant, but there are better places to eat not too far from the caves.
Vardzia Resort, a 5-minute drive away on the opposite side of the river, is my top recommendation. The hotel restaurant welcomes walk-in guests for lunch and dinner, with food served on the terrace or inside the gorgeous dining room decorated with antique carpets.
I highly recommend ordering some of Meskhetian specially dishes on the menu – Kada Khachapuri, an ultra crispy cheese pie; Apokhti Khinkali, tiny dumplings filled with dried meat; pickled wild Meskhetian greens; Javakhetian potatoes.
You can also find some excellent restaurants back in Akhaltsikhe, including Old Bar and Natenadze Wine Restaurant. Details here in my Akhaltsikhe Guide.


EthnoDesign gift shop
Behind the ticket office, there is a small souvenir shop selling Georgian-made crafts and souvenirs. Ethnodesign is run by the Georgian Traditional Handicraft Association and sells high-quality products sourced directly from makers and artisans around the country.

Where to stay near Vardzia
Vardzia Resort (Vardzia)
A short drive or 30-minute walk from the Vardzia ticket booth, Vardzia Resort is a great option if you want to stay close to the caves. Rooms and common spaces are beautifully decorated with antique carpets. There’s an outdoor pool and bicycle hire available.
Check rates and availability on Booking.com.
Valodia’s Cottage (Vardzia)
Located 3 km downriver from the caves, Valodia’s Cottage is an impressive agritourism business that offers hotel rooms and cabins, plus delicious meals prepared from home-grown vegetables and herbs. They even have a trout farm! The hotel mainly caters to big tour groups.
Check rates and availability on Booking.com.
Guest House Aleksandre (Tmogvi)
If you have your own car or you don’t mind staying a bit further out, Guest House Aleksandre is a beautiful little property in the village of Tmogvi, 6 km north of Vardzia along the river.
Private rooms are very simple but cosy with ensuite bathrooms, plus there’s a terrace where home-cooked dinners and breakfasts are served. The back garden, with its hammocks strung between apple trees, is particularly nice. Aleksandre and his wife are very accommodating hosts.
Check rates and availability on Booking.com.
Hotel Hobbiton (Tmogvi)
We stayed at Hotel Hobbiton on our most recent visit to Vardzia and really enjoyed it. Rooms are built into the hillside – a traditional architectural technique in this area – which makes them nice and cool. The location is convenient, quiet, and peaceful. Meals are available on request, and owner-winemaker Beka is a friendly host.
Check rates and availability on Booking.com.
Guesthouse Old Street (Akhaltsikhe)
If you plan to stay in Akhaltsikhe, I highly recommend Guesthouse Old Street, which is located in a family home halfway up the hill towards the castle. The downstairs double has an ensuite, and the family here are incredibly helpful with organising transport and the like.

More things to see & do around Vardzia
Ancient Meskheti region is one of the most underrated places in Georgia and a true treasure trove of fascinating fortresses, hiking routes and foodie experiences.
See my full guide to Samtskhe-Javakheti for more things to do off the tourist trail.
Zeda Vardzia
Zeda Vardzia (Upper Vardzia) is an active convent located in the hills above the main Vardzia caves. The complex includes a pretty stone church, rose gardens, and an apiary where the resident nuns make their own honey.
Vanis Kvabebi (Vani Caves)
Just 3.5 km from Vardzia back towards Akhaltsikhe, Vanis Kvabebi is another (much smaller) cave complex set back from the river. It dates to the 8th century, and includes a maze of tunnels that run through rock-cut caves on a sheer cliff wall.
Unfortunately, Vanis Kvabebi has been closed for several years now due to the risk of rockfall. We stop here and try to get inside every time I’m in the area, but we always get turned away by the security guards.

Khertvisi Fortress
One of the largest (and oldest) fortresses in Georgia, this castle sits at the confluence of the Paravani and Mtkvari Rivers 16 km north of Vardzia. Stop on the northern side of the main highway for a view of the walls towering over the river valley, then drive underneath to see the castle from the bottom up.
You can buy a ticket for 10 GEL to go inside the fortress, but honestly there is nothing much there. The views from outside are better.
Saro
One of my favourite places in Georgia, this incredible little village is located roughly halfway between Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia. It’s known for its megalithic cyclopean fortress, ancient church, and Meskhetian hall houses. If you are staying nearby, I highly recommend coming up for the sunset.

Gogirdis Abano (Apnia Sulfur Bath)
Located 1 km downriver from Vardzia, the sulfur pool at Apnia is one of many natural hot springs in Georgia. It’s not quite as impressive as the geyser in Vani or the hot springs near Nokalakevi, but it’s a bit of fun if you have some spare time.
The springs are located alongside the river, down from the main road at this point. The big undercover swimming pool is housed inside a glorified concrete shed, fed by a steaming torrent of water. Facilities are very basic – nothing more than a few towel hooks! Entrance costs a couple of GEL.
Akhaltsikhe
Along with the magnificent Akhaltsikhe Fortress, this small city has a few other interesting churches and some great local restaurants. See my Akhaltsikhe city guide for details.
Final tips for visiting Vardzia
- Arrive early. To avoid the first wave of tour buses, arrive when the ticket desk opens at 10am. Try to avoid the late afternoon as it can get brutally hot.
- Cover up. Long pants and sleeves (plus a scarf for women) are essential if you want to go inside the church.
- Bring plenty of water. There are springs onsite where you can fill up, plus there is a small shop inside the complex.
- Say yes to the optional shuttle bus. The extra 2 GEL saves you about a kilometre of uphill walking.
- Watch your step. Visiting Vardzia involves quite a bit of uphill walking and negotiating uneven stairs. There are pitched tunnels, steep paths, and some precarious ledges. Avoid any tunnel detours or smaller caves if you are claustrophobic.
- Be respectful. Vardzia is a sacred site and an active monastery, so please treat it as such.
Trusted travel resources for Georgia
Planning a trip to Georgia? Here are 5 essential resources that I recommend you check out.
- For private transfers in Georgia: GoTrip.ge. Find a professional, English-speaking driver. Prices are locked in when you book & you can stop wherever you want.
- For hiring a car in Georgia: Local Rent. Save money when you rent directly from a local agent. Pick-up & drop-off are available from any address.
- For finding accommodations: Booking.com. This website has the biggest selection of properties in Georgia, including guesthouses in rural areas.
- For Tbilisi tours & day trips: Friendly.ge has knowledgeable guides, safe drivers & creative itineraries. Use wanderlush for 10% off.
- For Kutaisi tours & transfers: Budget Georgia offers shared transfers to popular destinations including Mestia. Mention me for 10% off.
Hi Emily, my wife and I have been leveraging your Georgia guides extensively on our 11 day tour of the country, basically following your road trip route. We are in Tmogvi now at Hotel Hobbiton and wanted to highly recommend it and it’s proprietor, Beka, as a wonderful and close place to stay for Vardzia cave city visitors. Please, check it out. Thanks!
Thank you Ian for the recommendation – I certainly will! Enjoy the rest of your time in Georgia!
Hi again Ian – we stayed with Beka for a couple of nights last week, great place and great experience! Thank you again for the recommendation.
Hi Emily
Planning my Georgia trip and visiting your blog and YouTube channel daily. Thanks alot for such detailed information.
Need to ask one question though. I am planning to do Vardzia as a two day trip from Tbilisi. My plan is to take a Martshuka from Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe, stay the night there and then visit Vardzia. Is it better to stay there or you would recommend staying in Vardzia?
Also do you have any idea how to go from Akhalsikhe to Vardzia?
I dont drive and have arranged guided tours to other parts of Georgia but wanted to do this leg solo for some reason.
Hi Shariq, thank you! I really hope it’s been helpful.
There are a couple of options – you can take a marshrutka van from Akhaltsikhe bus station to Vardzia (there are several daily), or you can organise a local driver. I would get a driver for the day so you can stop at Khertvisi Fortress and viewpoints along the way. If you stay at Old House (the guesthouse I recommend in Akhaltsikhe), they can organise a driver at a fair price.
Akhaltsikhe is the better base – there are some nice restaurants in town, and a few other things to do.
Akhaltsikhe Castle is also worth visiting. Inside the entrance, there is a tourist information office where my friend Teo works – staff there can show you the bus times for Vardzia and offer other advice.
I hope this helps!
We will be visiting Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe to make some videos in June!
Thanks Emily. Its very helpful. Keep the good work going ✨
Fantastic info, thank you Emily! Just planning a Georgia/ Armenia road trip in a hire car for Sept/Oct , all the way from sunny Geelong! (picking up car in Tbilisi after visiting Istanbul, then flying to Baku & travelling on public transport to Tbilisi with stops in Sheki (& Lahij?) & Sighnaghi on the way.)
Vardzia was a dead cert on our route and your info is so helpful.
I am thinking we may drive Tbilisi to Yerevan with an overnight stop in Alaverdi & maybe onto Dilijan to allow us to do a hike, then after Yerevan, head to Vardzia before crossing back into Georgia. Does that sound like a logical route? Thanks for any expert input!
Hi Lisa, that sounds perfect! That’s the way I would do it, and in fact I have done that exact route before with my Dad first time he visited me.
Lake Sevan is also worth a stop. Between Yerevan and crossing back to Georgia go to Vardzia, Gyumri is great for a night if you have time (it’s a beautiful city). That border point is a lot quieter – roads can be bumpy if there was salt damage in winter, but nothing too bad.
Great to know this, thank you!
Hi Emily, we plan to drive to Vardzia with a rental car. You mentioned about paying extra 2 GEL “to take a car to the entrance”. Do you mean by taking our own car or ride with their vehecle? Thanks,
Hi YQ, it’s a separate bus.
You park in the carpark – it’s all very obvious once you get there. Have a wonderful time!
Thank you, Emily!
Hey Emily. I’ve been comingo dailty to your website. Very well-written articles, you seem passionate and have a way of words. Thanks for helping me and all of us with your awesome tips. Regarding Vardzia, has anything changed significantly for 2026? My trip will be in September.
Thanks so much, Diogo! No changes to report as of now. I will be visiting and updating/expanding this article in a couple of months time so you might like to check back closer to September. But everything here is still correct for 2026.
Wishing you a wonderful trip – and please let me know if there’s anything specific I can help with!
Great, useful and very well writted article, congrats!
Hello! I’m a plus sized traveler and am comfortable doing stairs… But someone said they did 50 flights of stairs! Is that necessary true or are there options for less? Trying to get a feel for how strenuous this is.
Hi Megan, 50 flights doesn’t sound right! There is only one walking track through Vardzia, and there are definitely some stairs that you can’t avoid plus a few narrow passageways. The main one to watch for is the exit, which is quite narrow and steep. I would say it is moderately strenuous and there are points where anyone who suffers from claustrophobia will find it challenging.
Hi Emily,
I have extensively used your recommendations in planning my 18 day road trip in Georgia (we are arriving in last week of Sep 2023). My two observation on this page on visit to Vardzia –
1) “You should stop off at Vardzia Cavetown Viewpoint on the opposite bank of the river” – when I click the link it does take me the viewpoint but it is on the same west bank of the river as Vardzia caves. However, on the east bank there is a point on google maps which reads as “View of Vardzia”. Is it possible that you are referring to this point?
2) When I click on the link of Cafe Vardzia (the one you recommend for lunch) it shows the Varzia caves. I do not otherwise see Cafe Vardzia on google maps. Are you referring to Restaurant Vardzia on google maps?
Hi Sharad – yes, that is the correct location of the viewpoint, thanks for pointing out the incorrect location. I have just updated the pin. Restaurant Vardzia is impossible to miss, it’s right in the carpark for the caves.
Great article, very helpful
Oraya normal araçla gidebilir miyim? Küçük araç? Yoksa bir suv’a mı ihtiyacınız var?
The road is fully sealed – you can get there with a sedan.