A quick guide to Meskhetian cuisine, including a dozen of the best things to eat and drink plus my favourite foodie experiences and restaurants in Akhaltsikhe, Vardzia, Borjomi and beyond.
The historic region of Meskheti, part of today’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region in southern Georgia, is one of my favourite parts of the country. Known for its dramatic landscapes and unique blend of ethnicities and cultures, it also happens to be a foodie’s paradise.
Synonymous with unique dairy products including the famous Tenili cheese, dried and preserved meats and doughs, and dishes that are heavy on fat, Meskhetian food is completely underrated and utterly delicious.
All across the region you will find guesthouses, restaurants, agrotourism centres and even monasteries and convents that offer tourists unique foodie experiences.
If you’re planning to visit Rabati Castle and the city of Akhaltsikhe, the caves at Vardzia, the popular mineral water resort of Borjomi or any other spots in historic Meskheti, indulging in traditional food is a must.
Also read: My full guide to the best things to do in Samtskhe-Javakheti region.
This guide brings together 12 regional dishes and drinks that you should look out for, plus the restaurants where you can find them. You will also learn about special foodie experiences in Samtskhe-Javakheti including Tenili cheese masterclasses and Meskhetian wine tastings.
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What makes Meskhetian cuisine special?
Meskhetian cuisine is the dark horse of Georgian food. While spicy and aromatic dishes from Abkhazia and Samegrelo, rich and decadent meals from Adjara and vibrant vegetable-based foods from Imereti have made their way onto restaurant menus across Georgia, Meskhetian dishes don’t receive nearly as much attention.
Most dishes use simple ingredients (wheat-flour dough, lard, cheese, local greens) – yet the textures and flavours cooks in this region manage to achieve with such basic ingredients is phenomenal.
It took me several visits to Samtskhe-Javakheti to become familiar with the local food. After attending the annual Bread Festival and experiencing several cooking masterclasses, I realised there was something very special indeed about this region’s eating habits.
To understand why, you need to look at the geography and history.
Firstly, the Meskhetian Turks, an ethnic group who settled in this territory from as early as the 11th century, bringing Ottoman traditions with them, left a huge mark on local cuisine. Over time, their culinary techniques were fused with local and seasonal ingredients to create something very unique.
Because it straddles the Turkish border, Meskheti was always the frontline for skirmishes between Georgia and the Ottoman Empire (the plethora of castles and fortifications in the area is another testament to this).
As a result, food evolved to be highly transportable and stowable. Dehydrated and preserved foods that could be packed up and stored for long periods when communities were under siege became staples of the Meskhetian diet.
Special ingredients in Meskhetian cuisine
Erbo: Erbo is an essential ingredient used for laminated pastry dishes including layered Khachapuri and sweet-and-salty Kada bread. Essentially the Georgian equivalent of ghee, Erbo is a soft, malleable butter fat made by boiling down cow’s milk then lightly fermenting and salting it.
Nakhicho: Another precious source of fat, Nakhicho is small cubes of pork, duck or beef lard that is dried then melted down before being incorporated into dough, khinkali, or other dishes.
Goose meat: Winged game including duck and goose are both very popular in Meskheti, along with beef and pork. The use of goose meat is particular to this region. Dishes including Batis Shechamandi (goose soup), Apokhi (dried jerky-like meat) and Meskhuri Apokhti Khinkali (mini dumplings stuffed with dried meat) all make use of goose.
Doli wheat: In the past, Meskheti was famous for its grains and supplied the rest of the country with cereals. Native wheat species including Tsiteli Doli (Red Doli) are cultivated in Samtskhe-Javakheti and used for breads including Meskhuri Shoti, Lavashi, Kakala and Somini.
What to eat & drink in Meskheti: 12 dishes that define the region
1. Tenili cheese
Traditional to both Samtskhe-Javakheti and Kvemo Kartli region, Tenili is one of Georgia’s estimated 250 varieties of cheese. It looks and tastes exceptional – and the process involved in making Tenili is simply captivating to watch.
It starts with sheep’s or cow’s milk, which is boiled to separate the curds from the whey. The ball of curds is then transferred to a separate container and the whey left to simmer over the fire. Boiling hot liquid is poured over the curds to soften them, and then the ‘pulling’ process begins.
Slowly and carefully, the cheesemaker (always a woman) grabs the hot curds and stretches them out. As she progresses, the cheese gets thinner and longer until it separates into coarse, silk-like strands.
Once finished, the cheese net is soaked in salted water and hung out to dry. Finally the cheese is submerged in heavy cream and stuffed into a clay pot for ageing (in Georgian, the word Tenili means something along the lines of ‘stuffing a hole with more of something than it can comfortably hold’). If properly preserved, it can be safely stored for several months or even years.
Tenili has a stringy, slightly chewy texture and a salty, sour kick. It is best enjoyed with hot bread.
The tradition of Tenili-making almost died out during the Soviet era. Only a few households upheld the old methods. Today you can participate in a Tenili masterclass at Chobareti Meskhetian House or visit a commercial workshop in Andriatsminda village.
Tenili can also be found in some supermarkets and gourmet grocers in Tbilisi.
2. Apokhti
Apokhti is a dry cured meat prepared from beef, pork, duck or goose. The taste and texture is very similar to jerky.
Thinly cut Apokhti might be served as an element on a cheeseboard along with Tenili, dried fruits, etc. Small chunks of Apokhti are used for filling Meskhuri Khinkali (see below).
3. Meskhuri Khinkali
Meskhetian-style Khinkali are quite unlike the giant, soupy dumplings you might be used to. They are a fraction of the size of mountain Khinkali and rectangular in shape, more closely resembling Turkish Manti or Azerbaijani Dushbara.
The bite-sized dumplings use a basic flour-water-and-salt dough and can be filled with a range of ingredients including soft cheese or even pumpkin. Tsero khinkali is made with butter, onions and ground walnuts.
The archetypal Meskhuri Khinkali, however, is filled with goose Apokhti.
The dried, salty meat gives the dumplings a pleasantly fibrous texture. Like Manti, this Khinkali can be served with sour cream or topped with fried onions.
4. Meskhuri Khachapuri
Every region has its own version of Georgia’s national dish. The Meskhetian take on Khachapuri is extra gourmet and definitely my all-time favourite (far surpassing Adjara’s iconic ‘cheese boat’!).
Meskhuri Khachapuri is square or rectangular in shape, and has a folded ‘leaf’ design. To make it, the dough is layered with lard, which gives the finished product an extra crispy and flaky texture – almost like a puff-pastry – while the Imeretian cheese filling remains soft and gooey.
5. Kada
Kada is another bread product traditionally prepared from local wheat varieties such as Tsiteli Doli. Traditionally the recipe calls for pork fat (lard), but these days vegetable shortening or oil is often used as a substitute.
Sweet Kada incorporates sugar. I have also seen it made with a very fine sugar-and-nut mixture folded into the pastry. Also eaten in Armenia, Turkey and Azerbaijan, in Georgia it is traditionally prepared for religious events and for New Year celebrations.
6. Doli bread
Bread made from Doli flour is another Meskhetian specialty synonymous with this region. Instead of the deep clay tone ovens that are popular in Eastern Georgia, Meskhetians typically use an upright wood-fired oven for baking.
Different types of Meskhetian bread including Lavashi, Somini, Thitiani and Ukha. Even the simplest ring-shaped Doli breads are earthy and grainy and super delicious, with a charcoal warmth from the oven.
7. Lokokina
Meskheti is the only region in Georgia where snails or Lokokina feature on the menu. It’s thought that escargot was first introduced by French Catholic missionaries who settled in the area. Meskhetians embraced the delicacy and made it their own, drawing on the endless supply of fat, juicy snails on their doorstep.
Traditionally Lokokina is prepared by simply boiling the snails in their shells. Flavourings such as garlic and parsley might be added.
Snails are not considered a special delicacy – they are eaten regularly at certain times of year as part of the normal routine. Many families will have them on the table for weekday dinners.
When I lived in Vietnam, I used to eat snails as a snack. In Meskheti they are often enjoyed the same way – fished out of their shells with a toothpick and enjoyed over a local beer.
8. Tatarberaki
Tatarberaki (AKA Tatarboragi or Tatar boraki) is one of my all-time favourite Georgian foods. Sometimes referred to as ‘Georgian pasta’, it is a simple dish of dried dough that is cut into ribbons or squares then boiled in brine.
Cooked al dente, it has a very pleasant texture. But the best part is the toppings: Before eating, you must smother your pasta with sour yogurt, caramelised onions, and a very thin minced garlic sauce.
The dough for tutmaji, a noodle and yogurt soup from Meskheti, is prepared in a similar way.
9. Arishta
I first ate Arishta in Yerevan in Armenia and was quite surprised to find it in Samtskhe-Javakheti. Another dough dish (this time made with eggs), it is closer to a noodle and has a darker colour and crisper texture compared to Tatarberaki.
Arishta is partially dried then rehydrated, making it possible to store it for long periods before eating. Once cooked, it is tossed in Erbo before serving to further separate the ribbons and give it a rich mouthfeel.
10. Bakmazi, Tklapi & Chiri
Bakmazi is a thick, super-sticky syrup reduction that can be made from a variety of fruits including grapes. In Meskheti, it is traditionally made from black or white mulberries.
Bakmazi might be served on a cheeseboard in the place of honey, or it can be used to prepare Gozinaki, a traditional Georgian sweet that is eaten around Christmas time.
Tklapi (fruit leather) and Chiri (dried fruits) are ubiquitous across Georgia and especially popular in Meskheti. On my last visit, I tried white mulberry Tklapi.
11. Meskhetian wine
Meskheti is not the first region that comes to mind when you think of Georgian wine – but historically, this part of the country was one of the most important centres of viticulture. Some researchers even believe that Saperavi, arguably Georgia’s most popular wine grape, might be native to this region.
This is the highest wine region in Georgia, with vines growing at elevations of 900-1,700 metres above sea level. Meskheti is famous for its terraced vineyards that line the river gorges, Douro Valley style.
As you’re driving to Vardzia, you can see old and overgrown tiered vineyards all along the river banks. There are even a few new terraces planted at the cave city itself.
Ottoman invasions in the 16th century all but destroyed Meskheti’s wine industry. Now, there are a handful of winemakers working to revive local winemaking traditions and recultivate endangered grapes including Chitistvala, Chitiskvertskha and Meskhuri Mtsvane.
Khachapuridze Winery near Borjomi, Davit Mumladze’s winery in Atskuri and Ude Monastery – where the resident nuns make their own wine – are among the growing number of places in Meskheti where you can taste local wines.
I recommend trying Meskhetian Mtsvane (a dry white made using a full skin-contact method) and Tamaris Vazi (a mild, dry red).
12. Amphora beer
Though not traditional, Samtskhe-Javakheti is home to an innovative brewmaster who fuses old and new to make some of Georgia’s best craft beer.
Zaza Zedgenidze ferments his ales using the same 8,000-year-old clay qvevri technology as Georgian winemakers. His brewery-restaurant-guesthouse, Amphora Beer, is located in Aspindza and offers tastings and meals. You can also find his bottled beer sold at select bars in Tbilisi.
Zaza’s German and Belgian-style lagers are made on Georgian hops and local wheat varieties including Doli, making them a Meskhetian specialty drink like no other.
My favourite restaurants in Meskheti: Where to eat in Akhaltsikhe, Borjomi, Vardzia & beyond
Not every restaurant in this region serves Meskhetian dishes, but there are a couple of specific places where you can order regional specialties. Here are my favourites.
- Old Bar in Akhaltsikhe: This restaurant in the centre of Akhaltsikhe city has a whole section of the menu devoted to Meskhetian foods, including Tatarberaki, snails, Apokhti, Tutmaji soup, and more.
- Restaurant Vardzia at Vardzia: This lovely little restaurant on the river directly in front of Vardzia is a great place to break for lunch after exploring the caves. They serve one of the best Meskhetian-style Khachapuris I’ve ever had.
- Pesvebi in Borjomi: This popular restaurant in the centre of Borjomi mostly serves classic Georgian fare. This is the first place I ever tried Tatarberaki.
- Sakalmakhe near Abastumani: This humble outdoor eatery north of Abastumani resort serves exquisite Apokhti Khinkali as well as fresh-caught fish (Sakalmakhe means trout in Georgian).
There are several restaurants in Tbilisi where you can try Meskhetian dishes, including Chveni (for Meskhuri Khachapuri, snails and more – brand chef Guram Baghdoshvili hails from this region); Elene Dariani (for Tatarberaki); and Gunda Artisan Khachapuri (for regional Kada and Khachapuri).
Resources for travelling in Samtskhe-Javakheti region
- 10 things to do in Samtskhe-Javakheti
- Things to do in Borjomi
- The best day trips from Borjomi
- How to get to Borjomi from Tbilisi
- Guide to Akhaltsikhe city
- Tips for visiting Akhaltsikhe Castle
- Essential tips for visiting Vardzia
- How to get to Vardzia
- How to hike to Shaori Fortress
- Guide to exploring the Javakheti Plateau and lakes
- Things to do in Abastumani
Thank you for this wonderful article! Would you mind sharing where all the food photos are from, for example Photo #4?
Hi John, the photo of the apokhti khinkali in a clay dish? It was taken at Old Bar in Akhaltsikhe.