The ultimate Tbilisi restaurant guide for 2024.
If you’re hunting for scrumptious Georgian fare and the best places to eat in Tbilisi, you’ve come to the right place. Freshly updated for this year, my bumper guide shows you exactly where to eat in Tbilisi and what to order.
I have been eating my way around Georgia for a while now. Food is one of the things that kept bringing me back to the Caucasus, and one of the big reasons I decided to move to Tbilisi in 2020.
I love Georgian food and have become something of an accidental expert on Tbilisi restaurants. In 2021, the Georgian TV channel BMG even made a segment about this guide and broadcast it on local news!
What’s so good about Georgian cuisine? Traditional Georgian food is full of delicious contrasts and contradictions. While meat, dairy and carbs do feature heavily on the menu, it is always offset by a liberal use of spices, fresh produce (including the world’s tastiest tomatoes) and herbs.
Georgian cooking is a product of the country’s diverse climate, varied topography and incredible ethnic and regional diversity (every corner of the country has its own specialties), with centuries of Middle Eastern, Asian and European influences baked in.
There’s something about Georgian hospitality and culture that gives every bite of food that much more oomph.
The first time I visited Tbilisi, I was stunned to see pomegranates for sale at the Dezerter Bazaar alongside rounds of fresh cheese and small mountains of turmeric and sumac. Walnuts, garlic, aubergine, blue fenugreek and honey – this is what Georgia tastes like.
On top of that, Georgian cuisine is very inclusive. Everyone is welcome to eat at this table. A great many national dishes are vegetarian or vegan by nature.
Tbilisi is Georgia’s culinary capital is the perfect place to traverse the depth and breadth of regional cuisine and indulge in some of the country’s best contemporary eateries.
If there’s one question I get asked all the time, it’s ‘What is the best restaurant in Tbilisi?’ In this Tbilisi restaurant guide, I’ll show you exactly where to eat in Tbilisi, and run through some of the traditional Georgian foods you should eat.
I’ll also cover the best Khinkali in Tbilisi, my favourite fancy restaurants and local budget bites, – and much more. I hope you’re hungry!
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How I chose these restaurants
This is a completely subjective list. Every restaurant is hand-picked by me because it is a place that I personally love. There are no sponsored placements, and no fillers.
There are three criteria I use when deciding which restaurants to feature:
- Georgian cuisine is the primary focus (see note below)
- The food is great
- The ambiance and decor are spot-on
Consistency is a huge issue in Tbilisi – chefs come and go, menus change – which is why I am constantly editing and updating this list. Service does not factor into my assessment, and I only ever make a note about service when it is truly exceptional.
I first wrote this guide back in 2017 after my first visit to Georgia. Since then, I have been progressively adding new venues and refining the list to ensure it remains up to date. If you notice something missing, then it is probably a deliberate omission rather than an oversight. I do not hesitate to cull places if I think they have gone downhill.
For this guide, I have tried to cover a broad range of locations across the city (both in the Old Town and in less touristy neighbourhoods) and a good mix of budget-friendly, mid-range and higher-end restaurants.
Price key (note that this is very approximate):
- ₾ – 30-45 GEL pp.
- ₾₾ – 45-60 GEL pp.
- ₾₾₾ – 60+ GEL pp.
The list has only ever featured Georgian restaurants (including contemporary Georgian and ‘fusion’ Georgian, plus a select few that are more Georgian-European but highlight local ingredients). While there are some great international restaurants in Tbilisi (Madre, Weller, Zest and others…), I firmly believe that when visiting Georgia, your first priority should be national cuisine.
Venues are divided into the following categories:
- Best khinkali – my top 5 khinkali restaurants in Tbilisi
- Classic Georgian – traditional recipes done right
- Modern Georgian – typical flavours with contemporary flare
- Regional Georgian – where dishes from a specific area are the specialty
- Uniquely ‘Tbilisi’ restaurants – where every meal is an experience
- Wine restaurants – where the wine shares the spotlight with the food
- Fine-dining restaurants – including haute cuisine, Michelin-starred chefs & restaurants with a view
- Budget restaurants – low-cost & no-frills
Without further ado, here are my top restaurants in Tbilisi for 2024.
My top 10 restaurants in Tbilisi for 2024
Before we dive into the full list, here are the best of the best – my top 10 best restaurants in Tbilisi across all categories.
- Sasadilo Zeche – my favourite new restaurant in Tbilisi for 2024
- Cafe Daphna / Asi Khinkali – tie for the best khinkali in Tbilisi
- Shemomechama – best all-rounder for Georgian cuisine
- OtsY – best fine-dining restaurant
- Kaklebi – best mtsvadi (BBQ) in Tbilisi
- Craft Wine Restaurant – best wine restaurant
- Amra – best regional cuisine (Megrelian-Abkhazian)
- Mapshalia – best budget restaurant
- Ninia’s Garden – best outdoor dining
- ATI – best restaurant in Tbilisi with a view
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The best khinkali in Tbilisi
Love Georgian dumplings? Here are my top 5 picks for where to eat khinkali in Tbilisi. For a full list, download my free guide to the top 10 khinkali restaurants in Tbilisi.
1. Amo Rame Bani
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Khinkali with nadughi cheese
An offshoot of the popular khinkali bar in Sololaki, this ‘district’ kitchen specialises in Amo Rame‘s signature hand-pinched khinkali dumplings. Both vegetarian versions – the plaited nadughi soft cheese dumplings and the creamy, deftly seasoned potato version – are the best in Tbilisi in my opinion. Happily there is no minimum order, so you can try both! Amo Rame is conveniently located close to Marjanishvili Metro Station and the pedestrianised part of Aghmashenebeli Avenue. There are two cosy dining areas (one with cute painted ceilings) plus a summer terrace.
Why I love it: The menu is just the right length, and the non-meat khinkali are my favourite in the city. This is one of the first restaurants I brought my dad to when he visited me in Tbilisi.
Location: 68 D. Aghmashenebeli Ave
2. Asi Khinkali
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Chef’s Khinkali & Georgian salad
Asi Khinkali (‘One Hundred Khinkali’) takes its name from a popular Georgian joke: A man walks into a restaurant, orders 99 khinkali, and when the waitress asks why not 100, he replies: ‘Because I’m not a pig!’. Ambitious eaters can happily binge here: The saucer-sized dumplings are so good, you will be tempted to over-order every time. My top picks are the Chef’s Khinkali with beef and tarragon, and the special edition dambalkhacho khinkali stuffed with aged cheese from Tianeti. The restaurant recently moved from Chugureti to Saburtalo.
Why I love it: Aside from the delicious dumplings, Asi Khinkali’s classic Georgian salad – which is supercharged with slivers of radish, sesame oil, mint, and pomegranate jewels – is out of this world.
Location: 9a Bakhtrioni St
3. Cafe Daphna
- Neighbourhood: Garetubani
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: All the khinkali
Also specialising in khinkali, coral-coloured Daphna is quite possibly Tbilisi’s prettiest restaurant (I’m sure Wes Anderson would agree). The new branch in Batumi also turns on the pink. Daphna’s dumplings are so soft and tasty, they will leave you speechless. Their kalakuri is probably my all-time favourite: Plump, juicy, and pimped out with all kinds of secret herbs and spices. The cheesy potato version drizzled with melted butter is also worth trying. With seven different flavours and no minimum order, you can treat yourself to a dumpling degustation. And if you need a midnight fix, the kitchen stays open all night on weekends. Reservations are highly recommended.
Why I love it: A Georgian friend introduced me to Daphna when it first opened behind the Opera House. She still swears they serve the best khinkali in the city – and I trust her opinion! The location is perfect for a khinkali fix after browsing the nearby Dry Bridge Market.
Location: 29 Atoneli St
4. Klike’s Khinkali
- Neighbourhood: Sololaki
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Our Special Khinkali
Klike’s underground khinkali house serves seven varieties of dumplings stuffed with various combinations of soft nadughi cheese, spinach, potato, sulguni cheese, mushrooms, and the classic beef-pork mix. Each flavour is expertly seasoned and the dumplings are always cooked to order (expect a bit of a wait if it’s busy). Our Special Khinkali are similar to kalakuri but without any greens. Alkanaidze beer is served on tap, and as well as khinkali there are typical Georgian bar snacks including black bread, pickles, and different cheese boards.
Why I love it: The basement location is cool in summer, and the bar has a Lagidze Water (natural Georgian soda) fountain.
Location: 1 S. Chitadze St
5. Shemomechama
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi, Vera & Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Uneducated Khinkali & chvishtari
The word shemomechama means something along the lines of ‘I accidentally ate the whole thing’. It is easy to overindulge (unwittingly or on purpose) at this restaurant, which turns out some of the best Georgian food in Tbilisi. Shemomechama could just as easily have slotted into the next category because it is a terrific all-rounder for classic Georgian fare. All three branches have an open kitchen so you can watch your food being prepared. More importantly, the chefs can see the look of ecstasy on your face as you dive into a platter of khinkali dumplings, always hand-pinched and boiled to order. Some of the dishes have quirky names (‘Uneducated Khinkali’), and the decor is somehow reminiscent of the milk bar in A Clockwork Orange. Shemomechama’s flagship location on Samghebro Street, near the sulfur baths, is a convenient lunch stop when exploring the Old Town.
Why I love it: Simply put, this is my favourite restaurant in Old Tbilisi – the food is reliable, and the prices are right. If I’m eating alone (which is often the case!) I usually order the chikhirtma chicken soup with a side of chvishtari cheesy cornbread. They serve Orbeliani’s candy, a delicious walnut candy, for dessert.
Location: 9 Samghebro St / 8 Mtskheta St / 16 Vazha-Pshavela Ave
Best restaurants in Tbilisi for traditional Georgian food
These restaurants take home-style cooking and traditional Georgian recipes to the next level.
6. Honoré
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Mtsvadi
One for the carnivores, Honoré specialises in simple, super tasty Georgian meat dishes: barbecue pork mtsvadi, charcoal chicken, and luscious local-style kebabi. Everything on your plate – from the main event down to the char-grilled tomatoes, the sumac-dusted onions and the pillowy bread – is exceedingly tasty. Opt for classic mtsvadi or upgrade to tenderloin for a few extra GEL. The chicken liver with plum is widely regarded as Tbilisi’s preeminent version of the dish. There are non-meat options too, including charred veg, pan-fried potatoes, and ajapsandali. Honoré is set in a restored heritage building and is a feast for the eyes, with beautifully decorated indoor and outdoor spaces. A second restaurant, Saghighino, a coworking space called Old Boys and a couple of bars are also located in the complex.
Why I love it: The service can be slow, but the BBQ is always good – and I love that they have Kutaisi Kebabi on the menu! I sometimes come here for lunch when I am waiting to take the train. I highly rate their house dessert, Tvishi white wine custard with berries.
Location: 4 Constitution St
7. Kaklebi
- Neighbourhood: Tskneti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Mtsvadi, apkhazura & ajapsandali
Located on the western fringe of Tbilisi, around 30 minutes from Freedom Square by taxi or an hour by local bus, this restaurant comes from chef Meriko Gubeladze of Shavi Lomi and Ninia’s Garden fame (see below). Kaklebi is well and truly off the tourist trail and has a very different, more local vibe. Stand-out dishes include pork BBQ (the best mtsvadi in Tbilisi in my opinion), and apkhazura caul-fat meatball with barberries. The ajapsandali is loaded with herbs and served cold, just the way I like it. There are some delicious starters on the menu too, including baganoush and strained yogurt with sweet peppers.
Why I love it: The stand-alone location on the Tskneti Highway is a bit out of the way, but it’s a great escape from the summer heat – and the views of Tbilisi on the drive up are epic.
Location: Tskneti Highway
8. Khash-Khash
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Shila plavi & khinkali
Khash-Khash is a stylish bistro that opened in the bottom of an Empire-style apartment block near Fabrika in mid-2023. Inside it’s a little bit fancy, but the garden courtyard has a more laid-back vibe. The khinkali dumplings here are something special. Chewy and almost soup-free, they are made according to a family recipe that hails from Ghulelebi, a mountain village 50 km north-east of Tbilisi that is famed for its dumplings and its fall foliage. I also recommend the shila plavi, Georgian-style risotto made with short-grain rice, oyster mushrooms and truffle. For an interesting combination of textures and flavours, the nadughi with Saperavi pelamushi (traditionally a dessert) is a fun amuse-bouche.
Why I love it: Some dishes I’ve tried are over-salted, but I can always count on this place for excellent dumplings. I love the cute interior, especially the terrazzo floors and the big antique map of ‘old Tiflis’ that covers one entire wall.
Location: 33 G. Mazniashvili St
9. RIGI
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Khoncha board & ostri
Located inside a never-finished metro station on Saarbrucken Square (below the popular Puri Guliani cafe), Rigi draws inspiration from the traditional douqani cafeterias of Silk Road Tbilisi, with different stations and open kitchens arranged around an immaculately designed dining room to mirror the taverns and market stores of the early 19th century. The menu by chef Giorgi Sarajishvili includes all the classics plus a few dishes that you won’t find anywhere else in the city, including regional delicacies such as Gurian leeks and pork mujuji. My favourites at the ‘Gastrodouqan’ are the khoncha sharing board – a generous platter of sun-dried tomato, celery bulb and caramelised onion pkhali – and the spicy Tbilisi-style ostri stew.
Why I love it: The sunken dining room has unexpected river views. Since it’s a bit out of the way, it is usually pretty quiet here at lunch time.
Location: Saarbrucken Square
10. Salobie Bia
- Neighbourhood: Garetubani
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Mushrooms in kindzmari & quinoa ghomi
Run by acclaimed restaurateur Giorgi Iosava, Salobie Bia is an old favourite of the Tbilisi restaurant scene. The tagline ‘Simple Georgian food’ says it all. True-to-flavour renditions of traditional dishes including lobio beans with pickles and cornbread, chicken shkmeruli, and kharcho with ghomi are all top-notch. The ‘naked’ tomato salad with pickled jonjoli and the beets in tangy plum sauce are both fresh and perfect for spring or summer. The house special dessert, tkemali sour plum sorbet with white chocolate mousse, is divine.
Why I love it: Set beneath Rustaveli Theatre, this restaurant feels like an artist’s atelier. The owner’s collection of vintage posters and signs, mosaic fragments, antiques and memorabilia is very impressive. This is one of my favourite places to stop for lunch whilst gallery hopping on Rustaveli Avenue.
Location: 17 S. Rustaveli Ave
11. Sasadilo Zeche
- Neighbourhood: Didube
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Ostri & kofte
Harking back to the Soviet era, Sasadilo Zeche opened in early 2024 and is the first restaurant in Tbilisi to outwardly reference this period of Georgian history. In the past, canteens called ‘sasadilos’ could be found all over Tbilisi (later on this list, I have included one of the real-deal sasadilo diners that is still working today). Zeche puts a fun spin on the concept of a factory workers’ cafe, with retro decorations including Soviet-era relief sculptures and PSA posters. The paper pick-and-tick menu includes classic, hearty dishes such as kebabi, kofte, and Georgian stews. For something different, try the Ajarian chirbuli, which is similar to a shakshuka but made with walnuts. The dining hall has an industrial vibe, with a separate cafe, a bar, and a branch of the Tamtaki street food restaurant nestled inside. At night, it transforms into a music venue.
Why I love it: I have been waiting a long time for a venue like this to open in Tbilisi. The Soviet bas-relief decorations in the main dining room are stunning, and the vibe here is fun. Zeche’s tongue-in-cheek Instagram posts are very funny and remind me of similar communist-themed cafes in Hanoi and Tirana.
Location: 18 Queen Tamar Ave
12. Shushabandi
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Apkhazura, pkhali & minty mchadi
A shushabandi (glazed balcony or foyer) is a delightful flourish of traditional Georgian architecture. This restaurant pays homage to old-world Tbilisi opulence and is my clear favourite for a sit-down meal at the Wine Factory N1 dining precinct. Shushabandi’s chef puts a subtle fine-dining spin on Georgian classics: Saperavi-soaked beef cheeks with tashmijabi, apkhazura with polenta and guda cheese, and djurdjani (a spicy Megrelian offal dish) with Laz-style ghomi cornmeal. I love the delicate corn breads (especially the mchadi infused with mint), and the menu has an abundance of vegan-friendly options, including a meat-free take on kharcho prepared with mushrooms.
Why I love it: This restaurant has a beautiful interior and an interesting menu. Venues at Wine Factory come and go, but this one has been around for years and is a firm local favourite.
Location: 1 V. Petriashvili St (inside Wine Factory N1)
13. Sofia Melnikova’s Fantastic Douqan
- Neighbourhood: Garetubani
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Khinkali & ajapsandali
Officially Sofia Melnikova’s Fantastic Douqan, Sofia’s is a Tbilisi institution. The not-so-secret Italian courtyard location behind Rustaveli Theatre (enter at #22 Tabukashvili Street) makes it feel like a bit of a hidden gem – but in reality, it’s extremely popular. If you want a table under the arbour, you’ll need to make a reservation. The menu is long and diverse with plenty of crowd-pleasers: Thai-style noodles, a blue cheese burger with Georgian pickles, and some vegan options. I like the Georgian fare the best: the ajapsandali veggie ragout is delicious, and the khinkali are buxom and tasty.
Why I love it: This is one of the first Tbilisi restaurants I ate at in 2017, and it’s still going strong. If you’re a cat person, you will get a kick out of the resident clowder.
Location: Stamba Dead End
14. Vakhtanguri’s Chebureki
- Neighbourhood: Avlabari
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Mushroom chebureki
To reach this suburban restaurant, you have to crest Elia Hill behind Sameba Cathedral (full warning: it’s a brutal climb!). As a result, this place has a local feel that is not as easy to find in downtown Old Tbilisi. Vakhtanguri‘s has been a fixture of the Avlabari neighbourhood since 1995. A few years ago the owners upgraded their space to a swish dining room with graphic posters and booth seating. They also have a small garden. As the name suggests, Vakhtanguri’s forte is the humble chebureki turnover, which is sort of like a giant deep-fried khinkali. Choose from sauteed mushroom, cheese or meat (essentially a kalakuri blend of pork and beef) fillings. As a rough guide, two chebureki per person is about right. At 5 GEL a piece, they are very affordable. Khachapuri, mtsvadi BBQ and other classics are also served, plus there is Black Lion beer on tap.
Why I love it: The walk up takes you through an interesting part of Old Tbilisi that you might otherwise miss. This is without a doubt the best chebureki in the city.
Location: 28 Zhoneti St
Best restaurants in Tbilisi for contemporary Georgian food
These restaurants push the boundaries of traditional Georgian flavours and cooking techniques to put a new spin on old classics. Many promote organic produce and sustainable, seasonal eating, while a couple fuse Georgian with European or Asian flavours.
15. Cafe Stamba
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Anything with almonds
Set on the bottom level of the iconic Stamba Hotel, Cafe Stamba is run by the Adjara Group and has a reputation for high-quality food and service. It’s worth coming here just to see the Brutalist building – a former printing house where Soviet Georgia’s first state newspaper was published. Come for the interior, but stay for the food. The seasonal menu highlights local ingredients sourced from Udabno (Adjara Group’s regenerative agriculture project in Kakheti) and herbs and greens from SpaceFarms (Georgia’s first vertical farm). Some of my favourite dishes have a Middle Eastern edge – the labneh made on Georgian almonds and served with zaatar is incredible. I also like the tomato and sulguni cheese salad with purple basil and Kakhetian sunflower oil, and the puff pastry khachapuri.
Why I love it: Both Udabno and SpaceFarms have outposts inside the building – after you eat, you can head out back to see the production rooms. There are also several gift shops here including Stamba Books, and a wine bar-shop called Warehouse. Don’t miss the Tbilisi Photography & Multimedia Museum upstairs.
Location: 14 M. Kostava St (inside Stamba Hotel)
16. Chveni
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Meskhuri khachapuri & lokokina
Guram Baghdoshvili, the celebrity chef and TV show host behind Chveni, is known for fusing Asian and Georgian flavours. One of his signature creations is ‘Georgian croquettes’ – cornmeal balls served in bazhe walnut or garlicy shkmeruli sauce. The menu at his flagship restaurant in Tbilisi (he also runs Daira Gastro Bar) is overwhelmingly long, with an entire sushi section! I suggest sticking to the local fare: Georgian-style escargot (lokokina) and flaky Meskhetian-style khachapuri topped with stringy tenili cheese.
Why I love it: Chveni has an eclectic design and a generous outdoor area that is heated in winter. I recently brought some friends here for lunch on Christmas day.
Location: 8 Tchorokhi St
17. Culinarium Khasheria
- Neighbourhood: Orbeliani Square
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Khashi ‘hangover’ soup
Important note: Culinarium Khasheria inside Bazari Orbeliani is permanently closed. I hope it will re-open at a new location soon – revisit this guide for regular updates.
Tekuna Gachechiladze is another Georgian celebrity chef with several venues in Tbilisi. She has been called ‘the rebel of Georgian cuisine’ for her unorthodox treatment of hallowed recipes (think kharcho with shrimp instead of beef). If you’re a foodie, you can’t miss a meal at her flagship restaurant, Culinarium Khasheria. Set on the ground floor of the Bazari Orbeliani food market, it is one of Tbilisi’s best contemporary dining experiences. Chef Tekuna’s forte is khashi, a tripe broth that Georgians conjure to cure their hangovers. The khinkali soup, a fiery Asian-style broth with shiitake mushrooms and mini dumplings, is my pick.
Why I love it: The menu has an entire ‘Hangover Cure’ section, and the buffalo yogurt panna cotta is one of my favourite desserts in Tbilisi.
Location: 3a Vekua St (inside Bazari Orbeliani)
18. Elene Dariani
- Neighbourhood: Sololaki
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Tartarberaki
Elene Dariani pays tribute to the 20th-century renegade Georgian poet Elene Bakradze, whose identity and very existence was shrouded in mystery up until the 1990s. The owners of this restaurant have fully embraced the shabby chic feel of the Sololaki house they inherited, with neon lights and a bar installed in the living room. Food by chef-founder Dimu Menabde (of MasterChef Georgia fame) is a mash up of different regional cuisines. For example, the specialty of the house is Meskhuri tartarberaki (referred to as ‘Georgian pasta’ on the menu without a hint of shame!) served with Racha ham, pumpkin and spinach in a creamy sauce. The chicken shkmeruli has a full-throated garlic twang and a nice hit of spice.
Why I love it: Tbilisi has a few great Italian restaurants, but this has become my go-to for a pasta fix.
Location: 16 P. Iashvili St
19. Iakobis Ezo
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Abkhazian Bourguignon & cauliflower steak
Located in an up-and-coming corner of Vera, Iakobis Ezo opened in 2024 and is attached to the new Artizan Design Hotel. The name honours the 20th-century Georgian sculptor Iakob Nikoladze, whose house-museum is just around the corner. Nikoladze worked in Paris as an assistant to Auguste Rodin – which explains the restaurant’s Francophile touches: red-white-and-blue crockery, and a menu that touches on several French classics including a Lyonnaise salad. The Abkhazian Bourguignon cleverly blends the flavours of adjika with a textbook Burgundy sauce. The vegan dishes here are exceptional, especially the cauliflower steak with chimichurri and the ekala pie.
Why I love it: The outdoor area is perfect for summer and I love the interior design, which also features a Listening Bar with regular vinyl sessions.
Location: 14 I. Nikoladze St
20. Iasamani
- Neighbourhood: Sololaki
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Gebjalia with tarragon & khachapuri chips
Occupying the lower quarters of a historic house and all but concealed from street view, Iasamani has a hidden-gem feel. More than half of the dishes on the small and thoughtful seasonal menu are vegetarian or vegan friendly, with stand-outs such as oyster mushrooms with cherry and pomegranate sauce and tashmijabi. The cocktail card covers all the classics (including Tbilisi’s best Negroni), and creations such as The Iasamani with white rum, violet liqueur and elderflower. A second restaurant, Iasamani Express, is located inside Satburi in Mushthaid Garden.
Why I love it: The combination of crisp-white table linens and fine silverware with peeling wall paint and heritage parquet embodies Sololaki sophistication.
Location: 33 L. Asatiani St
21. Makashvilebtan
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Wood mushrooms & baked quince dessert
Located inside a heritage house in Saburtalo (a former residence of the noble Makashvili family, who lend the restaurant its name), Makashvilebtan matches a glamorous old-world Tbilisi interior with vibrant, creative food. The secret garden here is perfect for summer. Highlights include bozbashi, a traditional beef, black peppercorn and bay leaf soup from eastern Georgia that you can also find in Azerbaijan, tolma in sour cream, and the house specialty, wood mushrooms served over a rich bean puree with soy and beet leaves. The vibrant medley of dips is perfect for sharing. But best to keep the baked quince with mascarpone and white chocolate all to yourself.
Why I love it: The suburban location makes this restaurant feel like a hidden gem.
Location: 19 S. Kandelaki St
22. Ninia’s Garden
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Pate with confit beetroot & kubdari
The first in a new crop of sophisticated restaurants taking over historic Plekhanovi district, Ninia’s Garden is situated inside a heritage brick building with an open kitchen, a breezy covered atrium-courtyard draped with vines, and a charming backyard with a cherub fountain and cool wall mural. Co-founded by Meriko Gubeladze (the same chef behind Shavi Lomi and Kaklebi), the restaurant is named after the 20th-century Tbilisi merchant, Ninia Zaridze, who famously opened up her private garden to aid and abet young lovers’ trysts. The menu highlights classic Georgian recipes with a fine-dining edge, and for some dishes, Middle Eastern flavours. The pâté with beetroot confit, the rabbit with walnut sauce and fried polenta, and the veal shank with cheesy mash are all swoon-worthy.
Why I love it: This restaurant is everything you crave on a summer’s evening: a refined menu, reliable service, and a laid-back ambiance. The kubdari meat pie is one of the best outside of Svaneti.
Location: 97 D. Uznadze St
23. The King and the Bird
- Neighbourhood: Garetubani
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Cheese and curd khinkali & beef chakondrili
Named after Tbilisi’s founding father, King Vakhtang, and his feathered pheasant, this restaurant is known for its creative take on khinkali: miniature dumplings are served in a deep clay dish (eating with a knife and fork is permitted in this case) with either pesto and barberries or florets of pickled cauliflower. The King and The Bird also does a mean version of beef chakondrili with chunky cherry sauce and tashmijabi cheesy whipped potato. The restaurant is nested inside a historic corner building off Rustaveli Avenue – a lilac neon light shining in the entryway marks the spot.
Why I love it: The old-school decor (vintage dressers, shelves lined with jars of compote) is cute, with ambient music to match. I love sitting at the big window and watching life go by on the street below.
Location: 29 R. Tabukashvili St
Regional Georgian restaurants
The following restaurants each specialise in recipes from a different region of Georgia.
24. Amra (Abkhazian-Megrelian cuisine)
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Akutaghchapa, adjika burger & Sokhumi ice cream
Amra first opened in 1956 in Sokhumi, the seaside capital of Abkhazia. After the owners were forced to flee during the 1992-3 civil war, they decided to reopen their popular restaurant in Tbilisi. If you’re craving something spicy, Amra isn’t afraid of turning up the heat. Fiery, fragrant ajika is a regional specialty – and here, you can try the spice mix in a variety of different ways. I love the oven-baked chicken with ajika crust, which has a mellow heat, and the ajika burger with yogurt sauce and pickles. The akutaghchapa, a hard-boiled egg stuffed with adjika-walnut paste (perhaps Georgia’s answer to the devilled egg?) is an Amra exclusive and a must-try. Cool off with a Sokhumi-style sundae for dessert: scoops of soothing vanilla ice cream with bitter-sweet tangerine marmalade and crushed nuts. The restaurant is located in Saburtalo, a short walk from the State University Metro Station.
Why I love it: Abkhazian-Megrelian cuisine is completely unique, which makes this restaurant a special treat for foodies. Most tourists will never make it to the Autonomous Republic, so this is a unique opportunity to experience a bit of Abkhaz cuisine and culture.
Location: G. Danelia St
25. Barbatus (Black Sea seafood)
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Black Sea salmon & tom yum khinkali
Tbilisi is a long way from the Black Sea, which is why most restaurants are limited to serving river trout. Barbatus (the Latin name for red mullet) gets its catch of the day fresh every morning from Poti. Horse mackerel, sea bass and Black Sea salmon are all butterflied and fried or grilled a-la-Plancha in the open kitchen, then dressed with salt and fresh lemon. Calamari, mussels and tiger shrimp are also available, and there is a generous Seafood Platter for sharing. One of the more unique dishes is the mini khinkali dumplings filled with fish and served in a Thai-style tom yum sauce. They also do a Finnish salmon soup.
Why I love it: This is one of very few places in Tbilisi that serves fresh seafood. Despite being located on a busy street, the leafy courtyard is very pleasant.
Location: 70 M. Kostava St
26. Chef Saradjeff (Meskhetian cuisine)
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi (Abanotubani)
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Atria & apokhti khinkali
This charming restaurant down-river from the sulfur baths specialises in Meskhetian cuisine. My favourite dish – something I have not seen anywhere else in Tbilisi – is atria, diamonds of boiled dough made from leftover khinkali wrappers. Choose from green adjika and matsoni yogurt sauce, or snails and pulled tenili cheese. Mini Meskhuri khinkali filled with chewy apokhti dried meat are also on the menu. Nikoloz Saradjeff (Chef Saradjeff himself) takes the simple tomato-cucumber salad to the next level with the addition of pickled jonjoli and barberries. Also try his signature dessert, sweet mchadi cornbread with cream and caramelised nuts.
Why I love it: The intimate vibe makes it feel as though you’re a guest of the house. The service here is always warm, and the menu is something original and different.
Location: 11 V. Gorgasali St
27. Kakhelebi (Kakhetian cuisine)
- Neighbourhood: Dighomi
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Mtsvadi & seasonal salads
This Kakhetian restaurant specialises in eastern Georgian fare: plentiful salads, simple soups, mouth-watering mtsvadi BBQ and in spring, fragrant chakapuli tarragon lamb stew. Wine comes from the owners’ 1955-established vineyard, and there are lots of grape-based sweets on the menu too. Upstairs is for sit-down dining while the downstairs cafeteria is always packed to the rafters at lunchtime. If you’re driving to Sighnaghi and looking for a road stop, Kakhelebi has a second branch on the Kakheti Highway.
Why I love it: The menu is refreshingly simple and we are normally the only foreigners in the house – always a good sign!
Location: 41 A. Beliashvili St
28. Oro (Megrelian cuisine)
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Chicken with bazhe sauce & crispy mushrooms
When it comes to eating out in Tbilisi, Oro (Megrelian for ‘Shadow’) ticks virtually every box: beautiful ambiance, attentive service from career wait staff, and above all else exceptional food. Megrelian is one of my favourite regional cuisines, and Oro does authentic recipes like few other restaurants outside of Zugdidi. The deboned chicken with creamy walnut bazhe sauce and the cheesy elarji is my favourite pairing. And although it is not strictly traditional, the crispy mushrooms with deep-fried tarragon and garlic is honestly one of the best things I have ever eaten in Georgia. I also recommend the sulguni cheese (made fresh to order and served warm), and the Georgian salad with a spicy Megrelian twist.
Why I love it: I was first invited to eat at Oro as part of a campaign but genuinely fell in love with the food here. The restaurant has a beautiful design, with Caucasian carpets and a sculptural wall inspired by traditional Samegrelo carved balconies.
Location: 5 K. Marjanishvili St
29. Pictograma (Khevsurian cuisine)
- Neighbourhood: Garetubani
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Mountain khinkali & kuserbo with ribs
Tbilisi’s first and (so far) only Khevsurian eatery, this restaurant dishes up hearty regional fare from the Land of Valleys. Pictograma (the name comes from the traditional symbols used in Khevsureti to embellish houses and Perangi garments – here, they adorn the decor) specialises in meaty, ultra-succulent mtiuluri ‘mountain’ khinkali filled with plain beef and finished with a dash of either vinegar or molten butter before eating. The thicker, slightly chewy dough is the defining feature. Other delicacies from Khevsureti including kuserbo, a rich potato and cheese gratin-like dish served with sour cream and ultra-fatty prime beef ribs in Saperavi sauce, cannot be found anywhere else in the city. The sweet special of the house is baked apple with walnut, plum and honey. Pictograma is located in the basement of the former Hotel London – enter from the riverside, near the Dry Bridge Market.
Why I love it: Khevsureti’s claim as the birthplace of khinkali is pretty compelling – and having eaten homemade dumplings in Shatili and Mutso recently, I can tell you this restaurant is pretty darn close to the real thing.
Location: 31 Atoneli St
Uniquely ‘Tbilisi’ restaurants
These restaurants range from haute-cuisine to bare-bones street food. What they all share in common is that they are a unique experience for foodies.
30. Restaurant Archive (caravanserai basement)
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Beetroot with tkemali & duck with khatvisi
Restaurant Archive offers an unparalleled fine-dining experience in Tbilisi and is my preference over the more well-known Barbarestan. Located in the vaulted basement of Tbileli’s Karvasla, the whole place was, until very recently, submerged. The rooms and passages were drained of their Mtkvari River water and restored, with Archive officially opening in spring 2023. Chef-founder Levan Kobiashvili deploys local ingredients in fantastically imaginative ways, with many dishes inspired by historical recipes. Stand-outs include the chicken pâté in a cherry shell with fig and dry ajika, the beetroot with tkemali sour plum sorbet and goat’s cheese mousse, and the duck with khatvisi (the Tushetian version of fondu). In-house sommelier Jaba Dzimistarishvili – voted Georgia’s best for the last three years running – is more than happy to suggest a wine pairing, with bottles drawn from Archive’s vast underground library.
Why I love it: A grand entrance through a candle-lit tunnel sets the scene for an unforgettable evening. If you want your dining partner’s full attention, there is barely any phone service down here! The presentation is haute-cuisine, but portions are still big – I left feeling very full!
Location: 8 Sioni St (inside the Wine Museum)
31. Beletage (family home)
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Kupati & kvari dumplings
A hidden gem in an area known for its pubs and karaoke bars, Beletage has an exceptional interior that tells a tale of 19th-century Tbilisi. The ground floor apartment with painted walls and ceilings – all original and protected, I am told, by the owners who loved entertaining guests so much, they decided to open their home to the public – sports a double-storey shushabandi at the back. There are a few outdoor tables, but I always opt to sit inside amongst the antiques. The food is difficult to pin down: highlights include salmon and black bread bruschetta, homemade kupati sausage, and saucer-sized kvari cheese dumplings.
Why I love it: The menu here is a bit different, and the family’s own qvevri wine is poured generously and properly priced from 6 GEL a glass.
Location: 6 Vashlovani St
32. Big Boar (food truck)
- Neighbourhood: Gldani & Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Pork mtsvadi
This barebones BBQ joint is the closest thing Tbilisi has to street food. In the absence of a food truck culture (roving vendors are prohibited outside of special events – apparently this legislation has something to do with marshrutka drivers selling food out of their vans), it is unusual to see someone cooking out of a truck, particularly one mounted with a giant hog! Big Boar does one thing, and they do it very well. The sign says ‘Caucasian BBQ’, but this is unmistakably Georgian mtsvadi: skewered pork (not boar!) cooked to order on a charcoal grill. The meat is salty and fatty – it’s not unusual to get a piece of pure lard in your 300-gram bowl – served with sliced red onions on top, and optional shoti bread and satsebeli tomato sauce or green tkemali sour plum on the side. Their new shop in Saburtalo is on the metro line and easier to get to, but I prefer the original location on the side of the highway in Gldani, which has a spacious (very DIY) seating area.
Why I love it: The roadside parking lot location is totally unique. Attending a summer BBQ in Georgia is a rite of passage – it’s fun to watch the process in detail here, especially when the cook whips out his blow dryer!
Location: T. Sheshelidze St / P. Kavtaradze St
33. Bina N37 (penthouse apartment)
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Kharcho
Bina N37 (‘Apartment N37’) is an unrivalled dining adventure in Tbilisi. The restaurant is located on the eighth floor of a typical residential block in Saburtalo – to get inside, you must ring the bell then take the lift up, as if you were a guest of owner Zura Natroshvili and his family. Their apartment has been retrofitted into an open-plan dining room, while the terrace offers uninterrupted city views. Every good Georgian restaurant needs a supply of wine, and Bina N37 hasn’t let its penthouse location hold it back. Zura has very cleverly emptied out his rooftop pool and filled it with sand, nesting more than 40 clay qvevri full of Saperavi and amber wine inside. For food, there is sea bream and a handful of Megrelian specialties. Reservations are essential (book at least 2 days in advance).
Why I love it: I first visited this restaurant in 2019, long before it was made famous by the New York Times. The format has become more rigid since then, but the addition of traditional toasting and live music is a nice touch for visitors.
Location: 5A S. Mgaloblishvili St
34. Coca-Cola Dining Room (Soviet-style workers’ canteen)
- Neighbourhood: Didube
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Mtsvadi, kharcho & pickles
AKA Sasadilo Coca-Cola, this Soviet-style cafeteria opened in the 1990s to cater to workers from the nearby Coca-Cola bottling plant. The factory has since closed (it is now an arts education space), so the new lunchtime crowd is made up of workers from the garages and railroads around Didube. The retro dining hall, the din of the 2pm rush – this place has a very unique atmosphere, helped by the fact that many tables order a small bottle of vodka or cognac to accompany their meal. Staff don’t speak much English and the menu hanging above the counter is all in Georgian, but it’s easy enough to piece together a feast with hand gestures. The family that runs Coca-Cola hails from Khevsureti, but the food here is strictly Georgian classics (mtsvadi, kharcho, etc.). Most meals are priced at 10-15 GEL. Small plates of pickles, salted fish and Imeretian cheese can be collected from the cold cabinet at the front. Cash only.
Why I love it: There is no other Tbilisi dining experience quite like Coca-Cola. I ate here on my first visit to Tbilisi in 2017 and it hasn’t changed a bit since then! Bikentina’s Kebabery offers a similar foodie experience in Kutaisi.
Location: 114 A. Tsereteli Ave
35. Unfound Door (20th-century mansion)
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Chvishtari with creme des echalotes and pear
Located inside the design hotel of the same name, Unfound Door Restaurant has a sublime interior and ambiance, and is your ticket to the perfect date night, or maybe breakfast in heaven – the kitchen opens at 8am. Flaking frescoes on the stairwell as you enter the 19th-century building set the scene. The restaurant occupies two light-filled rooms on the first floor, both of which feature more delicate ceiling paintings and original parquetry. Food is modern Georgian with a European slant: chvishtari cornbread with creme des echalotes and pear in Mtsvane wine; pâté with local plums; rabbit ravioli with tarragon and smoked sulguni cheese. Cocktails incorporate local botanicals.
Why I love it: It’s difficult to imagine a restaurant more in-tune with Tbilisi’s aesthetic (I even chose a photo from Unfound Door for the cover of my Tbilisi guidebook!). I adore this building and all the history it speaks to – just being able to set foot inside is a privilege.
Location: 111 D. Aghmashenebeli Ave
Wine restaurants
The following venues primarily showcase Georgian vino, but differ to regular wine bars in that the food (both tapas and boards and substantial sharing plates) is a cut above the rest.
36. Azarphesha
- Neighbourhood: Sololaki
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Extra-crispy potatoes with tkemali sour plum sauce
Ethnographer Luarsab Togonidze is a collector and cataloguer of Georgian costumes, antiques and archival photos. His restaurant, Azarphesha, distils his passion for living culture into a dining experience. This is not the sort of place where you order a glass of wine – go for the whole bottle, because you’ll likely be here for a while. The short but sweet menu offers warm roasted vegetables, trout in red wine and other seasonal, vegetable-based dishes. There is also mountain-style khinkali, chikhirtma with ginger, and bulgur dolma with tarragon, matsoni yogurt and tahini.
Why I love it: Promising heart-felt hospitality (and on some nights, live music and impromptu folk singing), this might be the closest you come to a genuine supra atmosphere in the city. I have personally had a few of my most memorable Tbilisi dinners of all time at Azarphesha.
Location: 2 P. Ingorokva St
37. Craft Wine Restaurant
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Shkmeruli, Gori katleti & Craft bread
A neighbour to the Communal Plekhanovi boutique hotel, Craft underwent several iterations before settling on its current form: a natural wine bar first and foremost, with Georgian cuisine to complement the card. Both veg and 28-day entrecote are grilled on a makali. There are Georgian-style charcuterie boards, a killer version of shkmeruli, and my pick, chef’s Gori katleti (meat cutlet with mash and tomato sauce). Bring a friend, because most wines are only available by the bottle. The private courtyard and moody dining rooms are all impeccably designed.
Why I love it: All of The Communal Company’s restaurant offerings in Tbilisi are first-class in terms of food quality and service. This is their only Georgian restaurant in Tbilisi – I also love Weller (cuisine from the Levant) and Madre (Spanish cuisine), plus of course their restaurants in Kutaisi and Telavi.
Location: 54 E. Ninoshvili St
38. G.Vino Natural Wine Bar and Dining
- Neighbourhood: Vake
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Gourmet flatbreads & kubdari
One of the oldest and most respected fixtures of the Tbilisi wine scene, g.Vino is much more than a bar-bistro: it’s a place where vintners come to swap notes, and where the social nature of Georgian wine shines through. For years g.Vino was located in Old Tbilisi until the owners picked up and relocated to the courtyard of Vake’s high-rise Axis Towers. It feels a bit corporate, but they have adapted well to their sophisticated new steel-and-glass digs. The wine list (wines by the glass rotate weekly) focuses on natural small-batch labels, all classified by feel: ‘light and bright’, ‘medium and expressive’, ‘full and intense.’ Come hungry, because the food here is phenomenal, from bar snacks such as marinated olives, gourmet flatbreads and wild mushroom croquettes, to Meskhetian apokhti khinkali soup, bite-sized empanada-style Svanetian kubdari meat pies, and pork ribs with a sticky maple glaze.
Why I love it: If you want to expand your Georgian wine horizons, g.Vino has an excellent wine list (including plenty of characteristic ambers) plus a sommelier on hand to help guide you.
Location: 37 I. Chavchavadze Ave (inside Axis Towers)
39. Poliphonia Natural Wine
- Neighbourhood: Mtatsminda
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Tempura jonjoli with aioli
Created by vintner John Wurdeman, Poliphonia is a well-rehearsed duet between natural Georgian wines and contemporary plant-based cuisine. Many dishes follow rare recipes from the regions. The menu evolves with the seasons and is ever-changing: expect khavitsa (fondue from the mountain kitchens of Tusheti) with shiitake; achma (a cheesy pie from Western Georgia) flavoured with black pepper and rosemary; and slow-cooked pork with ginger, quince and amarillo chilli. Smaller bites such as the tempura jonjoli and the whipped Svanetian butter with sea salt are mainstays of the menu and among my favourite sharing plates. As well as Georgian and European wines by the glass, Svia Craft Beer – brewed in Kakheti with rhododendron or acacia – is also available.
Why I love it: Because the menu changes with the seasons, you can always find something new and exciting to try here. Special dinners featuring guest chefs and degustations led by winemakers are a regular occurrence.
Location: 29 Chonkadze St
40. Sulico Wine Bar and Restaurant
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Burrata galette
Sulico channels the mystique of the Georgian folk ballad for which it is named, with a sunken, mural-adorned courtyard that shimmers with fairy lights strung from a big tree. This is one of the loveliest places to perch on a summer’s evening. In winter, the sunken courtyard is heated. Skip the prolix wine list: just tell the waiter your preference and they will rustle up something special for you. Meals range from cheese plates and light appetisers (stuffed zucchini flowers, bean pâté, tomato and burrata galette) to more substantial mains including baked trout in vine leaves and risotto with Svanetian cheese.
Why I love it: Sulico has more than 130 varieties of qvevri and Georgian wine on hand, so you can always find the perfect drop to pair with your food (or vice versa, depending on your priorities).
Location: 27 M. Zandukeli St
Fine-dining restaurants in Tbilisi
If you’re marking a special occasion or looking for somewhere to spend a romantic night out, these Tbilisi fine dining restaurants all offer incredible food in elegant surrounds.
41. ATI
- Neighbourhood: Avlabari
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Pork with Kakhetian black truffle
Located on the 10th floor of the five-star Sheraton Grand Metechi Palace, ATI (literally ‘Ten’) might have the best city views of any restaurant in Tbilisi. The all-glass dining room floats high above the Mtkvari River, with a panorama of the Narikala Castle district and Abanotubani. There are two open-air terraces for uninterrupted views. Cleverly described as ‘cuisine that blends the spices of the East and the sauces of the West’, food is firmly in the Georgian-European-fusion camp: local lamb with demi-glace; oyster mushroom khinkali with Sarajashvili brandy sauce; suckling pig with Kakhetian black truffle. ATI often hosts guest chefs and puts on a special menu for Christmas lunch (December 25th), Easter Sunday and Valentine’s Day. Dinner reservations are essential.
Why I love it: ATI is my top choice for a romantic dinner. The space is dimly lit and intimate, with decorations inspired by the Silk Road and live music some nights of the week. ATI’s brunch is incredible value and a must-do if you’re in Tbilisi on a Sunday.
Location: 20 Telavi St (inside the Sheraton Grand Hotel)
42. Keto and Kote
- Neighbourhood: Vera
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Georgian salad with naked tomatoes, mini khinkali in pesto & honey cake
This popular upscale restaurant takes its title from a Georgian comic opera that premiered in Tbilisi in 1919. Keto and Kote screams old-world charm, starting with the parquet-floored, chandelier-strewn setting inside one of Vera’s most distinguished houses, the former residence of Yevgenia Shkhiyants, which towers over Kostava Street. Previously you had to enter through a secret archway and up a set of courtyard stairs to reach the restaurant. Nowadays it’s best to arrive from Zandukeli Street. Tables are arranged across opulent dining rooms, on a shushbandi enclosed terrace, and in a small summer garden. The pulled beef and dolma are both signature dishes, while the simple cucumber and ‘naked’ (i.e. peeled) tomato salad with walnut paste and adjika bread on the side is one of the best Georgian salads I have ever had.
Why I love it: This restaurant has held its own through the years. The location overlooking Tbilisi and the heritage ambiance are unbeatable for a romantic meal. You can tell by the way staff answer the phone that professional service is a priority here – and that has always been my experience.
Location: Mikheil Zandukeli Dead End
43. OtsY
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Saperavi braised beef cheeks & mandarin cream brulee
After forging a successful career as a private chef in Europe, Tbilisi-born Giorgi Ninua moved back home to open a restaurant during the pandemic. His forte is what he refers to as ‘Tbilisi cuisine’ – not fusion food exactly, but rather classic Georgian recipes executed with European techniques. In a part of Tbilisi where venues come and go, OtsY (the name means ‘twenty’, as in the street number) already feels well-established. Giorgi and his team spent months rehabilitating the old house they now call home. Everything on the menu is designed to share, Georgian-style: classic cucumber and tomato salad with coriander hazelnut ajika, chacha-cured salmon, khachapuri with matsoni yogurt dough. Mains are definitely more on the European side but with a Georgian edge: chicken ala shkmeruli with a garlic caramel sauce; Borjomi trout with grilled asparagus; beef cheeks braised in Saperavi wine.
Why I love it: Chef Giorgi and his front-of-house team are exceptional at what they do – this is one of the very few places in Tbilisi where the service never disappoints. The formal dining room upstairs is more suitable for date nights and special occasions.
Location: 20 I. Shavteli St
44. Reserve
- Neighbourhood: Mtatsminda
- Price range: ₾₾₾
- What to order: Omakase menu
Launching in late 2023, Reserve is unique in that the kitchen cultivates/grows/makes the majority of its own raw ingredients – from the milk and meat right down to the micro herbs. Village eggs are sourced from their own poultry farm, Gruyère and butter are made at their own dairy, and natural sourdough is baked in-house. Head Chef Tomi Rissanen, who comes to Tbilisi by way of Finland, blends classic French and Italian techniques with a New Nordic philosophy for an exceptional fine-dining experience. Go the whole hog and order the omakase six-course tasting menu, which spotlights house specials (Georgian beef tataki with foie gras; trout ceviche). The optional wine pairing features qvevri and European-style wines from the company’s Kakheti vineyard, Chateau Zegaani, plus French and Argentinean bottles. Save space for Reserve’s signature dessert, a Saperavi cake infused with grape seed flour and served with tart cherries and silky matsoni yogurt ice cream.
Why I love it: Reserve has a fine-dining, haute-cuisine vibe with service (and prices) to match. Save this one for a special occasion. Ross and I were recently hosted here for our anniversary dinner – it was one of the most memorable dining experiences we’ve had in Georgia.
Location: 3 9 Aprili St
Best budget-friendly restaurants in Tbilisi
Some of the best food in Tbilisi is served at simple, no-frills cafes and restaurants. Here are my favourite places to grab a quick bite or sit down for an affordable lunch or dinner in Tbilisi.
45. 2 Tona
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Ojakhuri & khinkali
2 Tona (AKA 2 Tons) is a popular chain of Georgian craft beer restaurants. There are always a dozen European-style craft brews on tap, including lagers, ales, stouts, and even a helles or two. The ‘Two Minute Service’ menu promises salty bar snacks served stat, including onion rings and sweet chilli wings. Fresh, locally sourced meat is used for the house-made Basque and Sicilian sausages, and BBQ, khachapuri and vegetable dishes are also on the docket. Khinkali is the classic accompaniment to beer, and this place is known for its robust kalakuri dumplings. As one of the only places in Tbilisi to offer beer towers, it does get a little rowdy on weekends, especially if there’s a game streaming. There are several branches deep in the ‘burbs of Varketili and Gldani, but the Saburtalo location is most convenient because it’s footsteps from the metro.
Why I love it: This is one of my go-tos for a cold glass of beer and simple dishes such as ojakhuri.
Location: 2 Vazha-Pshavela Ave
46. Chashnagiri
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi & Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾₾
- What to order: Shkmeruli & chicken mtsvadi
Chashnagiri is a solid choice for an easy bite in the Old Town. The sports pub aesthetic is more suited to the suburbs of Tbilisi (where there are several more branches), but the food here always hits the spot. The shkmeruli is punchy, and both the khinkali and mini khinklukas are herbaceous and juicy. Chashnagiri also does a deliciously salty pork mtsvadi and a magical charcoaled BBQ chicken finished with a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.
Why I love it: This restaurant is easy, affordable and has a wide-ranging menu, generous portion sizes and consistently tasty food.
Location: 25 K. Afkhazi St / 30 Vazha-Pshavela Ave
47. Ghebi
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Lobio & shkmeruli
Ghebi is a typical family style establishment with a long menu, modest prices, and a very local vibe. Open 24 hours a day, it’s a safe bet for an early morning or late night feed. It can get a little rowdy if there’s a big group in the house, but the partitions do offer some privacy. Ghebi’s namesake is a village in Racha, so naturally the kitchen specialises in mountain fare from Western Georgia. The lobio with Racha-style ham is particularly good, and when it comes to the shkmeruli, the chefs are notoriously heavy handed with the garlic (in a good way). For drinks, there is homemade amber wine or draft beer for a refreshing 5 GEL a pop.
Why I love it: This restaurant is completely free of pretence. Staff are amicable, and the cellar-style dining room is pleasantly cool in summer. If you’re staying at Fabrika Hostel, this restaurant is just a short walk away.
Location: 115 D. Aghmashenebeli Ave
48. Mapshalia
- Neighbourhood: Chugureti
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Kharcho & elarji
If you’re on a tight budget, you will likely be a frequent customer at Mapshalia – an old-school dive restaurant in the basement of the former Apollo Theatre. The English picture menu is short but sweet. Megrelian cuisine is the specialty: rich kharcho stew, extra stringy elarji, and crispy chvishtari cornbread are my top picks. The house-made pork sausages are also very good. Most mains go for 7-12 GEL, and portions are generous. Note the interesting Soviet-style bas-relief on the back wall.
Why I love it: Mapshalia is one of the few restaurants in Tbilisi that has barely changed since I first visited Georgia in 2017 (although the days of indoor smoking are thankfully behind us!). Prices have obviously gone up, but this remains one of the most affordable places to eat in the city centre.
Location: 137 D. Aghmashenebeli Ave
49. Maspindzelo / Maspindzelo Express
- Neighbourhood: Old Tbilisi (Abanotubani) & Vera
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Chebureki & mtsvadi
Located on the riverfront beyond the sulfur baths, Maspindzelo (‘The Host’) is a Tbilisi mainstay that is very popular among local families and for birthdays and celebrations. The raucous atmosphere can be a lot of fun. One specialty of the house is chebureki, a deep-fried doughy turnover filled with either cheese, meat or sautéed mushrooms. Maspindzelo Express, an offshoot of the original, is located on Akhvlediani Street, close to Rustaveli Metro Station, and is ideal for an easy bite (note that the second restaurant doesn’t do chebureki, though).
Why I love it: The food here isn’t necessarily the best quality, but the menu is huge, and prices are quite affordable. I love the design of the Rustaveli branch, especially the menu which has a cute Georgian vocabulary lesson on the back.
Location: 7 V. Gorgasali St / 20 G. Akhvlediani St
50. Retro
- Neighbourhood: Saburtalo
- Price range: ₾
- What to order: Adjaruli khachapuri
There’s only one reason to visit Retro, and that’s to tuck into a dinner-plate-sized Adjaruli khachapuri. This cafe got its start in Batumi, where the boat-shaped cheese bread was born, so you know the recipe is authentic. The cheese-butter-yolk filling is velvety smooth, and the dough – fired in a special brick oven – is perfectly crisp every time. The ‘Big Adjaruli’ goes for around 17 GEL and is plenty enough for two, while the ‘Titanik’ with five egg yolks will feed your whole family. There’s also a fancy five-cheese version. For the carb-conscious, Retro’s founder chef Gia Agirba, has created tsom gamotslili, a patented ‘diet’ Adjaruli with less dough.
Why I love it: Adjaruli is not something you can eat every day (I average 2-3 a year). But when you do have it, you might as well go all out.
Location: 1 D. Gamrekeli St
Tbilisi restaurant map
Click here to open the Google Map.
Tips for eating out in Tbilisi
Georgian cuisine is made to be shared. Meals are traditionally served family style – i.e. different plates placed at the centre of the table. Bread (puri) can be ordered separately and is never complimentary. The same goes for water (although table water is slowly catching on). Smoking is banned indoors. Bilingual menus in Georgian and English are the norm. There are a few quirks to get used to: service is staggered, and plates often come out in an awkward order. Portion sizes are consistently generous at most restaurants, and over-ordering is common.
How much does it cost to eat out in Tbilisi?
There is a big variance in restaurant prices – and oftentimes a higher price tag doesn’t mean better-quality food (oftentimes you are paying for the location or ambiance). As a general rule, you should budget 40-60 GEL per person on average for a restaurant meal in Tbilisi (including a drink).
Tipping etiquette
Though technically outlawed since 2024, most restaurants add 18% VAT and/or a 5-10% service charge to the bill. This should be clearly stated on the menu. This ‘service fee’ never goes to the servers, though. If you want to make sure your server receives a gratuity, leave an extra cash tip, and try to hand it to them directly. Tipping is not part of the mainstream culture in Georgia and is not considered mandatory. However, it is now expected in most service industries – especially in Tbilisi. The common-sense principle that you should only tip if you’re satisfied with the service applies here.
Do I need a reservation?
Reservations are not mandatory in Tbilisi for the vast majority of restaurants. Any particular exemptions are noted above. If you want to book a table, the best way to get in touch is usually via phone or Facebook messenger.
Is there a dress code?
None of the restaurants mentioned here have a dress code. Smart-casual is the norm in Tbilisi.
Which restaurants in Tbilisi have a Michelin Star?
There are no Michelin Star restaurants in Tbilisi. The closest equivalent is Gault and Millau, though I am personally not a fan of all their listings.
Mealtimes in Tbilisi
Most people eat a little later than you might be used to – lunch at around 2-3pm, and supper as late as 9-10pm in summer. Most restaurants are open from midday until late (without a break) and serve food all day until closing time. There are a handful of 24-hour venues in Tbilisi, including some of the Pasanauri chain restaurants.
There is virtually no breakfast or brunch culture in Georgia. However in the past three years, the number of cafes that open early has grown exponentially. You can find them listed in my special guide to venues that open before 10am. I highly recommend checking it out because it covers 15+ more venues that aren’t mentioned here.
Khinkali etiquette
Most kitchens impose a minimum order of five pieces of any one filling. Dumplings are normally served in a shallow pool of pot water – wait for them to cool down, then grab one by its doughy ‘nob’ and take a small bite to slurp out the juices before eating the rest. It is good manners to leave the doughy nob behind on your plate (often it is not fully cooked through anyway). Never eat meat-filled khinkali with a knife and fork!
Vegetarian/vegan in Tbilisi
Georgian cuisine is naturally vegetarian-friendly, and many dishes are meat-free by design. A surprisingly large number of people fast several times throughout the year for religious holidays (devout Orthodox Christians fast every Wednesday and Friday). Because of this, the vast majority of restaurants, cafes and bakeries offer a ‘fasting menu’ or Samarkhvo in Georgian, with items that are free from animal products. Note that some fasting meals still contain honey. I have compiled a full list of veg-friendly Georgian dishes here.
99% of Georgian restaurants cater to vegetarians, and it is possible to find vegan options at some venues. In addition, there are a growing number of dedicated vegan cafes in Tbilisi, including Living Vino, Namu, Mama Terra, Kiwi Vegan, and others.
What to eat in Tbilisi: Quick Georgian food glossary
Now that you know where to eat in Tbilisi, I want to highlight a couple of meals that you should look out for on the menu.
There’s so much variety to Georgian cuisine – each region has its own specialty dishes that take advantage of local produce and food traditions. The great thing about Tbilisi is that you can try it all in the one place.
Common ingredients in Georgian cooking
If you’ve any hope of wrapping your head around Georgian food, you’ll need to get a handle on the raw ingredients first. The best place for this is the Dezerter Bazaar, Tbilisi’s biggest fresh food market.
The abundance and variety of produce at the market is stunning. Depending on the season, you might see piles of pickles, trays of apples, an incredible array of stone fruits, or colourful mushrooms. Staple ingredients/flavours in Georgian cuisine include walnuts, aubergine, kidney beans, cheese, blue fenugreek, and garlic. Pork and chicken are the proteins you will encounter most often. Khinkali typically uses a mix of veal and pork.
Popular Georgian dishes
It would be a culinary crime to travel to Tbilisi without trying at least a few of these Georgian specialties.
Ajapsandali — Vegan-friendly main sometimes called ‘Georgian ratatouille’, made with eggplant, onion, potato, tomato, peppers and herbs. Traditionally served cold.
Apkhazura — A giant meatball or rissole made with either beef, pork or lamb combined with barberry or pomegranate seeds, wrapped in caul fat and fried until crisp.
Badrijani nigvzit — AKA eggplant with walnut. Thin strips of charred eggplant stuffed with creamy walnut paste, garlic, blue fenugreek and other spices. Topped with sparkling pomegranate jewels, it is often included on pkhali plates.
Chakapuli — An ambrosial stew that is synonymous with springtime and eaten at Easter time. Made from either lamb or beef cooked with dry white wine, tarragon leaves and sour tkemali plums.
Chakondrili — A rich, bright meat dish prepared with veal or beef. The sauce is made from cherries, red onions and spices.
Chikhirtma — A cloudy or creamy broth containing chunks of chicken breast or thigh. Made with egg and white vinegar, it has a citrusy brightness that dances on your tongue.
Chvishtari — Cornbread patty with molten cheese inside, fried until crisp.
Elarji & ghomi — Soft cornmeal blended with sulguni (elarji) or with hunks of cheese pressed into the top before serving (ghomi).
Gebjalia — A cold dish from Samegrelo consisting of cheese wrapped in more cheese, submerged in a cheesy yogurt sauce, flavoured with heapings of fresh or dried mint.
Jonjoli — AKA Bladdernut root, usually served pickled. Because of the salty taste and the texture, it is sometimes called ‘Georgian capers’.
Khachapuri — Khachapuri ‘cheese bread’ is Georgia’s national dish. Some people mistakenly think of it as one single entity – in reality there are dozens of versions of the dish native to different regions. Decadent Adjaruli khachapuri, the boat-shaped bread served with gooey cheese, a knob of butter and an egg yolk, is the most well-known.
Kharcho (Megrelian) — A thick, curry-like dish of beef or chicken submerged in a luxurious walnut sauce. Best eaten with a side of elarji.
Khashi — ‘Hangover soup’ made with offal.
Khinkali — Georgia’s famous khinkali ‘soup dumplings’ come in many different forms, with a herbaceous pork-beef mince filling (kalakuri ‘urban style’) being the most ubiquitous. There are vegetarian versions filled with potato, mushroom or nadughi (Georgia’s answer to ricotta).
Kubdari — Georgian ‘meat pie’ from Svaneti, made by stuffing pastry with a salty beef and onion mix.
Kupati — A gnarly pork or beef sausage heavily spiced with adjika, coriander and pepper. The Imeretian version is smoother, while the Megrelian version calls for chitterlings.
Lobiani — Bread stuffed with lobio (see below).
Lobio — Rachan dish of red kidney beans stewed in a clay pot with herbs and spices. Chunks of smoked ham are sometimes added (if not, it’s vegan-friendly). Best eaten with a side of mchadi cornbread and pickles.
Mchadi — Simple, dry cornbread typically eaten as a side with pkhali or lobio.
Mtsvadi — Hunks of marinated pork, beef or chicken cooked over an open flame on a skewer and served with onions, a sprinkle of pomegranate, and tkemali sour plum sauce.
Ojakhuri — A simple ‘family style’ main of deboned meat (usually pork or chicken) fried with onions and potatoes and finished with herbs and/or pomegranate gems.
Ostri — Spicy beef stew.
Pkhali — A vegan-friendly thick spread or dip made from minced leaves/vegetables combined with crushed walnuts, garlic and herbs. Popular versions include spinach, beetroot and cabbage. Eat it with a fork or spread it on mchadi cornbread.
Shila Plavi — Georgian risotto or plov, typically served with mushrooms.
Shkmeruli — Chicken on the bone cooked in an extremely punchy garlic sauce with or without cream. Usually served as a whole bird in its clay ketsi pan, this is definitely one to share.
Tashmijabi — Whipped potatoes blended with brined cheese.
Tatarberaki — Ribbons of boiled dough traditionally served with melted butter and fried onion, native to Georgia’s southern Samtskhe-Javakheti Region.
Tolma — Rice-stuffed vine leaves.
Tomato and cucumber salad — Simple salad of sliced tomato, cucumber, red onion and herbs, served with either chunky walnut paste or a drizzle of cold-pressed Kakhetian sunflower oil.
More Tbilisi posts you’ll love
- Georgia Travel Guide – all my 200+ posts for Georgia
- 25 Tbilisi travel tips – essential reading for first-timers
- The ultimate Georgia itinerary – the best of Tbilisi & beyond in 1-4 weeks
- How to plan your Caucasus travel itinerary – discover Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan
- What to pack for a trip to Georgia – and what to wear in Tbilisi
- How to get from Tbilisi airport to the city – 5 best transport options
- The best things to do in Tbilisi – the ultimate insider’s city guide
- Where to stay in Tbilisi – best neighbourhoods & accommodations
- The best restaurants in Tbilisi – where to find the best Georgian food
- The best cafes in Tbilisi – for coworking, coffee & more
- The best breakfasts in Tbilisi – cafes that open early
- The best gift shops in Tbilisi – where to buy authentic souvenirs
- The best walking tours in Tbilisi – discover the city by foot
- Tbilisi’s best walking streets – architecture, people-watching & street photography
- The best boutique hotels in Tbilisi – art hotels, wine hotels & more
- The best hostels in Tbilisi – accommodation on a budget
- Visiting Gulo’s Spa – the best sulfur bath in Tbilisi
- Visiting the Dezerter Bazaar – Tbilisi’s incredible green market
Tbilisi restaurant guide: Save it & share it
Love your blog, Emily! It’s been super helpful in my last couple of trips to Georgia. I’m planning to go with my girlfriends for my bachelorette to Tbilisi (can’t help, love Georgia!) and I was wondering if you know any restaurants that serve Halal meats. One of my friends is a Muslim so it does get difficult for her and I don’t want her to forcefully eat only vegetarian food for the days we’re there.
Hi Bindu, thank you! Great to hear you’re coming back! Yes there are quite a few halal restaurants in Tbilisi, especially around the Chugureti neighbourhood (near Marjanishvili metro station). If you search on Google Maps you should see quite a few pop up. I hope this helps!
Hi Emily
Had a wonderful late lunch at Kneina in old Tbilisi with my family during a first time visit to Georgia. The classic Georgian food was delicious. We started with a pear salad, eggplant with walnut, and Adjaruli Khachapuri. This was followed by Sheep Stew, Lamb Kabob, and Tekmali Chicken. The home made ice cream made with walnuts was the favorite in the group. Thank you for your blog.
Hi Emily,
I’m planning my first trip to Georgia (in a few months) and I’m currently devouring all your blog posts while creating my itinerary. I have a perhaps quite particular question – how accommodating do you generally find staff at restaurants regarding small changes to a dish? I can’t eat coriander and, by the looks of 90% of pictures I’ve seen, it’s an ingredient used in many many recipes. From experience (in the UK), this herb is rarely mentioned on menus as an allergen, not sure why, even though many people can’t eat it for genetic reasons. Can I expect staff to be happy to not put coriander in a dish? Alternatively, can you think of several coriander-free dishes I could safely go for? Thank you!
Hi Irene, thanks for your comment! Coriander is mostly used as a garnish but coriander seed is a common spice. Is this also an issue for you? Look for Mtiuluri khinkali which are not likely to contain greens. As for other dishes that normally contain coriander, you can try asking – it would be best to translate the phrase into Georgian and carry it on a card with you.
Thank you, Emily. I’m not sure about the seeds. I can smell coriander even from a distance and I wouldn’t eat the dish. I started learning Georgian last year and I know the word ‘ყინძი’. I will make sure to master the vocab to be able to politely ask for coriander-free suggestions!
Hi Emily, we travelled to Georgia for a week from the UAE and your blog was the best source for all the information we needed from the area for hotel bookings to the places we ate at, with all the fabulous tips you gave. Thank you so so much for such detailed info that truly helped us make our holiday so memorable esp for my children aged 17 and 11. Much love and God bless
Thank you Trevilla, I’m so glad to hear that! I really appreciate your feedback. I hope you will get a chance to return to Georgia one day! Take care.
Hi Emily, thank you for all the useful information and insider knowledge in Georgia. I am planning to visit in Decembe, and will be in Tbilisi for my birthday. Are you able to suggest a restaurant with Georgian traditional music and dance, or perhaps a restaurant that would suit the occasion? Some friends have recommended Mravaljamieri and Khinkali House, but I didn’t find them featured on your list! Looking forward to your response!
Hi Jen! Mravaljamieri is nice for music, yes.
Here is my list of restaurants that offer music and dance: https://wander-lush.org/live-music-in-tbilisi-georgian-folk-dance-polyphony/
Hi Emily,
Many thanks for your detailed, extended and…first of all… inspiring blog! It has already added a great value to the preparation of our trip to Georgia. I travel with a friend in Tbilisi next week and we are wondering if there is any restaurant(s)/coffee place(s) with gluten-free options. Any suggestions?
Thanks Dimitris! Sorry for the slow reply, I am probably too late but there are quite a few cafes in Tbilisi with GF options these days. Culinarium, Salobie Bia, Chveni, Mama Terra, Leila, MOSS all have gluten-free options. I hope this helps!
Thank you Emily,
No worries! Even though I read your message late, I’ ll keep in mind the cafes you mentioned, in case I visit Tbilisi again. Keep inspiring people!
hi Emily,
My girlfriend and i are visiting TBS in August to celebrate her birthday. we will be staying for 11 nights and will hopefully try many of the places you have recommended on your list.
would you be able to recommend some best bakeries /cake shops where i can purchase some cakes, etc.
thanks again mate and keep up the great work.
Hi AV, sounds lovely! I really like the cakes from Buka’s Bakery. I ordered a whole cake from them for my husband’s birthday a few years back. Bagelin also does delicious pecan pie and cheesecake. Enjoy your trip!
Would probably be a good idea to mention that your rec for the best khinkhali in Tbilisi (CAFE DAPHNA) is reservation only. Will save people the hassle of getting all the way there only to be denied
Hi John, I just asked the owner and this is a new policy – great to see them doing so well. I hope you didn’t miss out, though!
I will add a note for other readers. Thank you for the update!
Hello Emily,
Thank you very much for the wonderful recommendations. I will be visiting Tbilisi from 15 May. My two friends are vegetarians. Which places with Georgian cuisine are recommended for vegetarians? Which traditional Georgian dishes are vegetarian? Or is everything traditionally with meat?
kind regards
Sasha
Hi Sasha – not at all, there are lots of dishes that are vegetarian-friendly and all restaurants have options! Here is my guide: https://wander-lush.org/traditional-vegetarian-georgian-food-vegan-dishes/
Hi Emily!
Thanks for this wonderful and insightful post
My husband and I will be traveling to Tbilisi in June and will stay there for 5 days.
We love good food, and would love to taste as much of the local cuisine as possible. What are your TOP “do not miss” restaurants, and should one make a reservation in advance for any of them?
Hi Sigal, great to hear! Did you see my top 10 at the start of the post? I will add some new openings soon, but those are my tried and true favourites. Most restaurants do not require a reservation – any that do, I have mentioned it in the text. Have a wonderful trip!
hello WANDER-LUST!
thank you for this awesome insights I’ve been reading and switching links for our upcoming Georgian tour with my husband and 4yo daughter this February. Your post is crucial for every first time traveler like me as a mom and a wife. I hope our upcoming travel will be a wintery vacation as my itinerary and to go places are based on your writings.
EXCELLENT JOB!!
Thank you, Heidi! I hope you have a fabulous trip!
Wonderful info. I’m also an Aussie living in Georgia. So it’s great to get another Aussie’s opinion on the local restaurants.
Thanks Rachel! Would love to hear your recommendations, too!
Hi Emily,
Thanks so much for these resources. They’re incredibly useful!
My husband and I are planning to go to Georgia next spring, however I’ve got a bit worried about the food situation after reading this as my husband is allergic to nuts. Obviously we’ll avoid things like pkhali, but I’m a worried about the use of stuff like adjika which may not be as obvious on the menu. Is it possible to avoid and what is the general level of awareness of allergens amongst waiting staff?
Many thanks,
Julie
Hi Julie, thanks for your comment!
Nuts are a tricky one – walnuts are used in a lot of recipes and dishes where you might not notice or expect them. I would definitely do your research on dishes to avoid. But I would say that 100% of kitchens in Georgia use nuts, so if contact/shared prep spaces is an issue then it could be very difficult for you.
General awareness on food allergens is not super high in my experience (for example, a lot of cafes that claim to be gluten free still use ingredients that may contain gluten). I would stick to higher end restaurants and where possible, mention your needs in advance so they can prepare for you. This is important if you plan to eat at guesthouses, too.
Thank you so much. I’ve spent 3 days in Tbilisi this weekend and tried 4 restaurants you recommend, all of them are the best!
So glad to hear that! I hope you had a wonderful time!
My husband and I will be visiting Georgia at the end of the year. We’re looking for a nice place to have dinner on New Year’s Eve. We don’t expect a very fancy restaurant. We just would like to have a cosy dinner. Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Maria,
Many places are closed on December 31st as people celebrate the biggest night of the holidays with family. It’s really hard for me to say as I love all these restaurants, but for something cosy, I might recommend Chveni – I had my Christmas lunch there last year and sitting outside under the heater with a blank on my lap and a big glass of wine in hand was really lovely. Just check to make sure they are open, and book a table!
Hi Emily!
Thanks for providing all this information in your blog about Georgia. Very helpful, even for people living here a good source.
About Cafe Littera – you are sure it will be back? We heard it is closed completely. It would be for sure a loss, as the setting and the food have been just .. amazing
Thanks Bernd! Yes, I’ve been told they will definitely be back, and they were hiring staff back in May. Last I heard the reopening date was still TBC. I miss them too!
Thank you for this post. We ate at 2 of your recommendations, Salobie Bia and OtsY, and thoroughly enjoyed both of them. I’m just sorry we didn’t have time for more!
Two of my favourites, Deborah! So glad to hear you enjoyed the food. I hope you’ll be back to sample more!
Hey Emily can you do an article about some places to hang around on a Friday or Saturday evening? For a drink or to go with some friends thanks
Hi Marsi – I already have a couple.
Here are my favourite bars in Tbilisi: https://wander-lush.org/best-bars-in-tbilisi-georgia/
And live music venues: https://wander-lush.org/live-music-in-tbilisi-georgian-folk-dance-polyphony/
Have you gone to Restaurant Funicular that claims it has the best view of Tbilisi? Would you recommend it after ATI as an alternate option?
I have not eaten there, only at the cafe downstairs. I can’t comment on the food but it does seem to get mixed reviews! The view from Mtatsminda is indeed great, but it’s very high – all you see is lights at night, whereas at ATI you can see the river and recognise lots of landmarks. If you give it a try, please report back and let me know how it was!
There are other options in the Old Town with a view: Sofiko and See360 come to mind.
Hi Emily – really great info on TBS + Georgia – well done. Sadly both CULINARIUM KHASHERIA and Cafe Littera have closed permanently.
Hi Thomas – they are both temporarily closed and will reopen by the end of this month.
Cafe Littera closes every winter for a few weeks, and it looks like Culinarium did the same this year (they are doing some refurbishments) – but despite what Google Maps says they are definitely not permanently closed! Sorry for any inconvenience!
Dear Emily,
I have been living in Tbilisi since summer 2020 and have tried several restaurants from your list with my family. But the biggest part still on the “must-to-try” list. The same about the coffee shops. And I have not managed to get through all your articles on Cambodia, Vietnam…countries I also spent a part of my life in. Thanks for your great job!
Thanks so much for reading Jana – we have a lot in common! I am really hoping to return to Southeast Asia soon.
Enjoy eating your way around Tbilisi! I already have a few more places to add for this year!
Thank you sou much for all of your information on Georgia. I move there in a few moths on a 2 year work placement without having been before. It has been so nice to be able to get a feel for the place before hand, so thank you!
You’re most welcome Katie! Please don’t hesitate to reach out by email if there’s anything else I can help with.
All the best for preparing for your big move!
Hi Emily,
We are two cyclists from Switzerland and we have been four months in Georgia already and we ate at many of the places recommended by you in Tbilisi. Thank you so much for your detailed and extensive blog, it made our stay in beautiful Georgia even better.
Thanks so much Lisa and Dario, that’s awesome to hear! Georgian food is the perfect fuel for cycling!
Let me know if you need food recommendations for any other cities in Georgia.
Hi
thank you. This article was very helpful.
Without it we would not have enjoyed Tbilisi and it’s food as much as we did.
Thanks Maha! Very happy to hear that.
Thank you so much for all of your lists! We arrive tomorrow and will definitely use your information as our main guide! Where do you recommend going for the best khachapuri?
Thanks Michelle! If you’re after Khachapuri Adjaruli, I highly recommend Retro.
Just a quick note to say thank you for your blogs! I’ve wanted to travel to Georgia for awhile and at the beginning of October that wish will (hopefully) be fulfilled. I’m taking four Russian staff members and we are all looking forward to that time. Reading this blog on food and restaurant options creates even a greater excitement about this upcoming adventure.
Thanks again for all the great information!
Hi George, thanks so much for your comment.
I’m very happy to hear that! There are too many excellent restaurants in Georgia to list, I’m sure you’ll have fun discovering even more. Please pop back and let me know which ones you enjoyed most/any new finds so I can check them out too!
Take care and safe travels,
Emily
nice reviews … i plan to go in Georgia next january … it will be useful !
Wow! This is a pretty impressive listing – and beautiful photos too! Perhaps time to turn it into a book? Could be a kind of mini-Michelin guide of Tbilisi eateries (and then might as well add the rest of Georgia, and it could become the go-to restaurant guide for the country) 🙂
I like your thinking, George! Watch this space!
also check “Satatsuri “
realtively new restaurant on ninoshvili street, its georgian comfort food
Oh yes, I’ve been past but haven’t popped in yet. I’m going to try it next week. Great tip, thank you!
Have you been to Sirajkhana yet? I rank it up there with Kakhelebi and Salobie Bia. Other than that, I think your list is spot-on!
You know I ate there in 2017 but haven’t even thought to go back – thank you for the reminder, another one for the list! I have a couple of additions to make now!
Great info Emily, Thanks!!