Secret Tbilisi: A Look Inside Some of the City’s Most Enchanting Homes

Tbilisi architecture is some of the most interesting, beautiful and historic I’ve seen anywhere on earth. This visual tour of the best buildings in the city will get you inspired to explore Tbilisi!

I think I could walk the streets of Tbilisi, capital city of Georgia, all day, every day and never get bored. The architecture is one of the first things visitors notice about the city, and something that is bound to leave a lasting impression. It’s beguiling in the truest sense of the word.

Some sections of Tbilisi are lined with classical European facades, grand enough to rival any Parisian boulevard. But this neat, ordered exterior is an illusion.

Tucked away down the alleyways behind buildings is a mash of laundry lines, detached garages, staircases, wine cellars, underpasses and doorways – a hint at the communal, often messy nature of life in inner-city Tbilisi, where many families live under the same roof.

In this city, your neighbours are considered to be on the same level (or even higher) than your family.

Living in such close quarters and sharing living spaces demands a certain decorum; for example, it’s the height of rudeness and utterly unacceptable to not stop and chat to your neighbour if you see them on the street.

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As well as the mechanics of everyday life, Tbilisi’s architecture also alludes to Georgia’s past. Thanks to multiple invasions and a vibrant history of immigration, each of the city’s neighbourhoods is culturally and architecturally distinct: Armenian, Muslim, Jewish (and now, on the horizon over there, Chinese). But there’s a consistent Tbilisi vernacular that flows through the city. It consists of intricately carved overhanging balconies and verandas, communal courtyards, and tightly wound spiral staircases.

It’s amazing that so many of Tbilisi’s cupcake-coloured houses and opulent Art Nouveau mansions survived the Soviet era. But that’s not to say 69-plus years of imposed austerity didn’t leave its mark on the cityscape.

During Soviet times, many Georgian families from rural areas were encouraged (or forced) to move to Tbilisi so they could contribute labour and be more easily controlled. Large houses built at the turn of the century were subdivided into smaller apartments to accommodate the influx of families. Almost overnight, mansions went from supporting one household to sheltering multiple families.

Everyone wanted their own entrance (and maybe some extra space too) so walls were knocked down, extensions tacked on, doorways added and new staircases constructed. These staircases link to a central courtyard, dominated by vine trellises, rose bushes and a well. Before piping, this would have been the building’s only source of fresh water.

The houses and apartments we see today on Tbilisi’s residential streets are a bit of a mishmash. Some mansion homes have been faithfully restored; others have been levelled or picked apart to make way for new developments. Many are in disrepair.

This undoubtedly adds to their charm, but it’s also a bit of a shame – especially for those buildings that lay dormant, boarded up and unused. One reason why many houses haven’t been restored or redeveloped is that multiple families own the buildings.

Any decision to sell or renovate the property would have to be unanimous. Many residents of the older mansions in particular are elderly and understandably reluctant to let go of their slice of property. So, many buildings remain just as they were at the end of the Soviet Union: shambolic but utterly adored; still serving their most basic purpose: to provide shelter.

I wanted to see and learn more about Tbilisi’s residential architecture so I organised a private tour with Tatiana Remneva, a Russian-born expat who has lived in Georgia for four years. Tatiana must get lost a lot because she has scoped out some truly hidden spots. She’s a talented photographer and has an incredible wealth of insider-knowledge about Tbilisi, its neighbourhoods and individual houses (she sometimes meets and talks with property owners).

She is also incredibly generous with her time and more than happy to share her favourite finds with tourists like us. I wish there was a Tatiana in every city we visited!

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More Tbilisi posts you’ll love

• Georgia Travel Guide – all my 200+ posts for Georgia
• 25 Tbilisi travel tips – essential reading for first-timers
• The ultimate Georgia itinerary – the best of Tbilisi & beyond in 1-4 weeks
• How to plan your Caucasus travel itinerary – discover Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan
• What to pack for a trip to Georgia – and what to wear in Tbilisi
• How to get from Tbilisi airport to the city – 5 best transport options
• The best things to do in Tbilisi – the ultimate insider’s city guide
• Where to stay in Tbilisi – best neighbourhoods & accommodations
• The best restaurants in Tbilisi – where to find the best Georgian food
• The best cafes in Tbilisi – for coworking, coffee & more
• The best breakfasts in Tbilisi – cafes that open early
• The best gift shops in Tbilisi – where to buy authentic souvenirs
• The best walking tours in Tbilisi – discover the city by foot
• Tbilisi’s best walking streets – architecture, people-watching & street photography
• The best boutique hotels in Tbilisi – art hotels, wine hotels & more
• The best hostels in Tbilisi – accommodation on a budget
• Visiting Gulo’s Spa – the best sulfur bath in Tbilisi
• Visiting the Dezerter Bazaar – Tbilisi’s incredible green market

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