Visiting the Tbilisi Sulfur Baths: Etiquette, Tips & the 10 Best Bathhouses in Abanotubani

Absolutely everything you need to know before you visit the iconic Abanotubani sulfur baths – plus 10 of the best bathhouses in Tbilisi compared.

Going for a soak and a scrub at the sulfur baths is as much of a Tbilisi tradition as diving into a plate of Khinkali or sipping on a glass of Qvevri wine.

In short, it’s one of the most memorable experiences you can have in Georgia’s capital.

But – Tbilisi’s baths are very different to those in Istanbul, Budapest, or anywhere else really. To make the most of your visit (and to avoid embarrassment), it’s essential to brush up on some basic bath etiquette before you go.

The first few times I visited Georgia as a tourist, I fumbled my way through a number of different bathhouses, often with hilarious results. (Let’s just say there are a couple of places where I can’t show my face ever again.)

Now that I live in Georgia, I visit the baths as often as I can, and I’d like to think I have a pretty good grasp on the ins and outs.

In this post, I’ll show you the top 10 bathhouses in Tbilisi and provide an extremely detailed guide to using the baths – including etiquette, and do’s and don’ts. I’ll explain exactly what happens during a bath treatment so you know what to expect.

At the end, you’ll find an account of my first visit to Gulo’s Thermal Spa, one of my most absurd, fun and embarrassing travel memories of all time.

I hope this article answers any questions you have about how it all works. If there’s something else you’d like to know, leave me a comment at the end and I’ll do my best to help out.

• Also read: Natural sulfur baths, hot springs & mineral water pools in Georgia

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Quick history of the Tbilisi sulfur baths

The history of the sulfur baths is the history of Tbilisi itself. The location of the city was specifically chosen because of the hot springs that run beneath the earth and even inspired the name – Tbilisi means ‘warm place’.

Legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali happened upon the hot sulfurous waters while out hunting with his falcon. You can see the bird immortalised in statue form on the bridge near the baths.

Most (but not all) of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths are located in Abanotubani district, adjacent to the river and not far from the Old Median. One of Tbilisi’s most recognisable neighbourhoods, Abanotubani is characterised by the brick domes that pop out of the earth like molehills.

This design allows natural light to stream into the bath rooms and provides ventilation for the sulfuric steam to escape.

The waters are naturally warm, averaging temperatures of 38-40 Celsius (100-104 degrees Farenheit). The thermal springs that feed the baths are said to have health benefits too, helping to treat a range of ailments from heart disease to psoriasis.

Today, most people come to the baths for the atmosphere and experience rather than the remedial benefits.

In the old days, people used to congregate at Abanotubani gorge (which still looks much the same as in this archival photo) to wash and do laundry in the stream supplied by the nearby Leghvtakhevi Waterfall.

The Persian-style baths erected to make the most of the hot springs rose to prominence during Tbilisi’s Silk Road days. By the 13th century, there were as many as 65 baths in the area. Today there are fewer than a dozen.

The springs have long been an important part of Tbilisi’s culture and identity. The process of bathing here has been enshrined in poetry, literature and pop culture, including in the wonderful novel Ali and Nino by Kurban Said and in Alexander Pushkin’s poetry.

In days gone by, women would come to the baths to check out their prospective daughters in law. Decades later, a visit to the public baths was still a weekly (or even daily) ritual for many people. Nowadays the ‘fancy’ sulfur baths are mostly the domain of tourists, but some locals still visit the public bathhouses to wash.

Centuries on, the baths haven’t lost their utility nor their romance.

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Tbilisi sulfur baths: The basics

When planning a visit to the sulphur baths, it’s important to understand that these are bathhouses first and foremost, not spas. In the past, the main objective was to get clean, not to be pampered. Some of the baths have been ‘touristified’ and turned into spa-like establishments. But they aren’t as plush as bathhouses elsewhere.

The baths are open year-round, but as far as locals are concerned it’s more of a winter activity. It’s also a rather lovely way to spend a chilly spring evening in Tbilisi.

Public or private?

Tbilisi has both public (communal) bathhouses and private bath rooms. Which one you go for depends on your budget, and also the kind of experience you want to have.

Public baths are cheaper (from 10-15 GEL per person per hour) and offer a more ‘local experience’. Essentially it involves getting naked in front of a bunch of strangers. The rooms are sex-segregated.

Private baths are dearer (from 70 GEL up to 500 GEL per hour), but they are usually cleaner and definitely more comfortable. They’re more suitable for hetero couples because you don’t have to split up. In most cases, kids are welcome inside.

Each bathhouse has a variety of private rooms to choose from. The larger and more luxe the room, the higher the price tag. Some have a sauna; all have a private shower and toilet, and a ‘dry’ sitting area where you can leave your belongings.

If you have time, I recommend trying both the public and private baths.

Kisi scrub

When you visit the baths, treatments can be added on for an additional cost. I recommend getting the kisi (kisa) exfoliation/pilling scrub as it is an essential part of the experience. Much like a Turkish hammam treatment, it involves a vigorous scrub-down with a textured mitt to get rid of dead skin, followed by a wash down with a foamy ‘pillowcase’.

A kisi typically takes 10-15 minutes and costs 10 or 20 GEL. The person who performs the kisi is called a Mekise.

Some of the more up-scale bathhouses also offer massage treatments. Traditional Turkish massage is the most common, but you can also find remedial massage, relaxing massage and facial massage.

See here for a list of spas and wellness centres in Tbilisi that offer Thai and remedial massage.

Nude or not?

That is the question! Unlike in Istanbul or Budapest, the Tbilisi sulfur baths have no common areas. Once you’re safe inside your private room, you wont encounter anyone else – except your Mekise if you’ve ordered a kisi scrub or massage.

It’s really a personal choice whether you wear swimmers or not. A local once told me that men who go nude could give off the wrong impression – so now we always wear swimmers. (Later on, I’ll tell you about my weird naked experience.)

Women usually wear a bikini, while men can get away with wearing briefs. Note that the sulfur water can stain some fabrics so don’t be bringing your best trunks.

If you’re a woman and you order a kisi, the Mekise will ask you to remove your bikini top for the treatment.

Bookings, payments & tipping

Most bathhouses accept advance bookings in-person or online. To avoid disappointment, it’s a good idea to book a few days in advance, especially during high season.

Chreli-Abano (AKA Orbeliani Baths) requires pre-payment by card if you book online and you also need a Georgian phone number to confirm your reservation. Gulo’s Thermal Spa and many of the others take bookings through Facebook Messenger. You can find links for each bathhouse in the next section.

If you haven’t pre-paid, payment is typically made once the treatment is complete. Most bathhouses accept either cash or card. If you order a kisi, some baths including Chreli-Abano require you to pay the Mekise separately in cash. Tipping the Meskise is optional (if you choose to tip, 10% is standard).

Make sure you arrive early for your allotted appointment time! I recommend arriving at the bath with 20 minutes to spare so you can sort out payment and buy your accoutrements. The baths are always busy and rooms often get booked back to back, so if you’re late, your reservation might get cancelled.

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What happens during a visit to the Tbilisi sulfur baths?

Every bathhouse is a bit different, but this is the way things generally work:

• Once you arrive for your pre-booked appointment, check in at the reception desk. If you didn’t bring your own from home, this is the time to purchase any extras (towels, slippers or soap, for example).
• If you booked a private bath, someone will show you to your room. There will be a separate sitting area where you can leave your belongings and either get changed into your bathers or strip off. It’s safe to leave your valuables here, although you should leave the door unlocked if you ordered a kisi scrub because otherwise your therapist won’t be able to get in.
• If you want to take photos, now is the time to do so before things get too steamy.
• Take a warm shower before jumping into the bath. Then the idea is to hop between the hot sulfur bath and the cold plunge pool. The hot baths range from 38-40 degrees Celsius so it’s recommended to only soak for only 4-5 minutes at a time. If you’re prone to lightheadedness like I am, watch out for the warning signs. And don’t forget to bring a bottle of water with you.
• After 20 or 30 minutes, the therapist will come in for your scrub. If you’re a couple or a group, you will take turns. Women can stay in the room for the men’s massage, but males are usually asked to leave when the women’s treatment is happening.
• Once the scrub is over, shower then jump back into the hot pool. You’ll then have a bit more time (10 or 15 minutes) to switch between the hot and cold waters.
• When it’s almost time to go, someone will knock on your door or call to let you know when you have 10 minutes remaining on the clock. Shower, get changed, and move into the waiting room where you can use the hairdryer.
• If it’s a good bathhouse, you’ll be served tea before you leave. Some baths charge extra, and others (including Bohema) will bring tea into the room part-way through your bath.

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What is the best sulfur bath? Tbilisi’s top 10 bathhouses compared

On the surface, it may look like there are dozens of bathhouses lurking below street level – but there are in fact only 10 working sulfur baths in Abanotubani plus several others scattered around the city.

Most offer the same treatments so the main things to look out for when deciding which bathhouse to book are the interior decorations and the quality of the kisi.

Note that a lot of reviews on Google Maps and TripAdvisor are muddled up, so don’t believe everything you read online. I have personally visited all these bathhouses at least once. Here are 10 of the most popular options compared.

Gulo’s Thermal Spa – authentic option (my top choice)

• Location: End of Abano I Deadend (⚑)
• Opening hours: 7am-midnight daily
• Price: From 100 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Yes (book via Facebook or phone)

With exquisite wall mosaics depicting pheasants and peacocks, faux-marble pools and typical domed roofs, the rooms at Gulo’s are the most authentic of any of the recently refurbished sulfur baths. This place is spotlessly clean, staff are normally friendly, and the kisi is excellent quality.

If you want a traditional Tbilisi bath experience a la Ali and Nino with a hint of old-world opulence and tea to finish (don’t forget to place your order when you arrive), this is my top choice.

Gulo’s has 8 spacious private rooms, all of them quite beautifully designed in ‘Roman’ and ‘Arabic’ styles (compare photos here). The cheapest costs 100 GEL/hour and features hot and cold pools plus a shower, while the most expensive room – a palatial suite with a sauna – costs 250 GEL/hour and is suitable for groups.

A kisi scrub costs 10 GEL, towel hire is 2 GEL and slippers are available for 3 GEL.

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Chreli-Abano (Orbeliani Baths) – luxury option

• Location: Top of Abano Street (⚑)
• Opening hours: 9am-11pm daily
• Price: From 100 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Yes (book via the website or phone)

With its splendidly tiled mosque-like facade, Chreli-Abano (sometimes called Orbeliani Baths) is without a doubt the most iconic bathhouse in Tbilisi. It’s also one of the most expensive, and by far the most touristic.

Chreli-Abano has a long history (this is where Alexandre Dumas and Alexander Pushkin bathed when they visited Tbilisi). However it was completely refurbished a couple of years ago. Although very beautiful, most of the rooms don’t have their traditional domed roofs and aren’t ‘authentic’ Tbilisi-style like the ones at Gulo’s.

There are 11 private rooms to choose from (see photos here), plus a Royal Apartment that has a snow room (!!), Turkish sauna, and a private bar. When we visited, we opted for Room No 3 (200 GEL/hour) and found it to be very comfortable.

This place runs like a well-oiled machine and service is pretty good. You must pay for your room in advance at the reception desk upstairs, and if you order a kisi for 20 GEL, you have to pay the therapist separately in cash in person (so you need to have small bills on you).

Other accoutrements are pricey so definitely bring your own towel (slippers are provided for free) and don’t bother buying an exfoliation mitt.

Advance reservations are mandatory. If you don’t want to book online and pay by credit card, you should come down in person to reserve a room. In high season, I recommend booking a day or two in advance.

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No. 5 Sulfur Bathhouse – best public bath

• Location: Adjacent to Heydar Aliyev Park (⚑)
• Opening hours: 8am-9pm daily (public) or 24/7 (private)
• Price: From 6-10 GEL/hour (public) or from 70 GEL/hour (private)
• Reservations required? Not required for the public baths

There are only two public baths left in Abanotubani and this is the cleaner of the pair. Bathhouse No. 5 dates back to 1925 (notice the hammer and sickle emblem out front) and there are Soviet-era mosaics in some of the rooms.

‘Lux rooms’ numbers 1, 3 and 7 all have outstanding decorations mosaics. But the VIP room (next on this list) is something extra special. The public rooms feature new, modern tiling.

Like Gulo’s, this is a more authentic experience overall. No. 5 is a local bathhouse and less focused on catering to tourists, thus staff speak less English and can be a bit gruff. But don’t let that put you off.

Entrance to the public bath costs 10 GEL/hour for men or 6 GEL/hour for women. There is a locker room downstairs where you can store your belongings.

Private rooms start from 70 GEL and go up to 110 GEL for a room with a sauna. Room 3 (pictured below) can accommodate up to 8 people and has new mosaics on the ceiling. The furniture is a little clunky, but the tiling is nice and the rooms are very clean.

Towel rental costs 3 GEL and a kisi scrub is 10 GEL (or 20 GEL with a massage). Kisi is available in both the private and public rooms.

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VIP Room at Abano 5 Narikala – secret option

• Location: Adjacent to Heydar Aliyev Park, closer to the river
• Opening hours: 7am-9pm daily
• Price: 200 GEL/hour (private room)
• Reservations required? Essential (book by phone: +995 032 272 00 03)

I have been to the baths dozens of times but only recently learned of this bath’s existence. It is technically part of No. 5 Sulfur Bathhouse AKA Abano 5, but it has a separate entrance so I’m giving it it’s own section.

The thing that makes this bath special is the mosaics. Both the sitting room and the bathroom itself – which is very spacious with several plunge pools and a private sauna – are completely covered in mosaics. The design is very Soviet.

The room costs 200 GEL/hour and a kisi is an additional 30 GEL per person.

To find it, go to the main entrance of Bathhouse 5 then walk along the park towards the river. You will see an opening in the fence and several domed roofs. There is an animated neon sign above the door. Go inside and walk downstairs to reach the reception desk.

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Bohema Sulfur Bath (Mirzoyev Bath) – heritage option

• Location: End of Abano II Deadend (⚑)
• Opening hours: 9am-11.30pm daily
• Price: From 45 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Recommended (book by phone or on Facebook)

According to historians, Mirzoyev Bath – or Bohema Sulfur Bath as it’s now known – was likely the first bathhouse in Abanotubani. Sulfur waters flow directly into these baths, and most rooms feature traditional domed roofs and heritage-style tiling. The decor here is more minimalist, rooms are clean, and the prices are fair.

Bohema positions itself as a couples’ bathhouse and offers special packages that include wine and candles. A lot of people like this place because it offers a range of professional massages as well as traditional kisi for 10 GEL.

Therapists are highly rated, and staff at the front desk are friendly. Tea costs an extra 10 GEL – order it on arrival and staff will bring it into the room for you.

Bohema has 5 private rooms ranging from 45-120 GEL plus a spacious VIP room for 180 GEL. The latter is especially lovely, with a unique marble wall frieze, several pools and a classic domed roof.

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King Erekle’s Bath (new sulfur bath) – modern spa-like option

• Location: 2 Abano Street (⚑)
• Opening hours: 9am-11pm daily
• Price: From 200 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Recommended (book by phone or on the website)

Also owned by Chreli-Abano, this bathhouse reopened in September 2023 after extensive renovations. The ultra-modern interior is all marble and stone and has a very clean and polished spa-like feel. If you’re after a more ‘elevated’ experience that still has traditional flourishes, King Erekle’s Bath is a safe bet.

Ignore the old 24/7 listing on Google Maps – this place has been completely transformed and is different to the bath mentioned (and pictured) in most of the reviews.

It has quite an entrance: To find the door, head down the steps towards the river/waterfall then make a left on the boardwalk. When I visited, everyone working at the reception was young and friendly and spoke perfect English.

There are a number of private rooms available, all with a lounge area featuring a water dispenser, coffee and tea sachets, and a TV. Prices are definitely on the higher side, ranging from 200-400 GEL per hour. The 250 GEL/hour room I saw (pictured above) was beautifully decorated but a touch small.

A kisa scrub costs 20 GEL (paid for separately in cash) and all the necessary accessories are available to buy or hire at the front desk. I particularly like their kisa scrubbing mittens, which are made from antique carpet offcuts (yours to take home).

The common room has some lovely contemporary mosaics that depict King Gorgasali and the pheasant and other Old Tbilisi motifs.

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Royal Bath House – another traditional option

• Location: 8/1 Ioseb Grishashvili St (⚑)
• Opening hours: 8am-11pm daily
• Price: From 80 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Recommended (book in person or by phone)

Royal Bath-House is another authentic old-school option, with gorgeous domed roofs and experienced therapists on staff. As you walk down the stairs into the underground room you’ll see archival photographs of Abanotubani hanging on the walls.

The design in the reception area makes it feel a bit like a night club (though I do love the David-like statue of the Mekise with his bucket in hand), but the rooms are very classy. Room 2 is particularly beautiful, with soaring arches and a Scandi-style sauna.

Private rooms range from 80-170 GEL per hour. A Kisi costs 10 GEL, and towel hire is 2 GEL.

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Queen’s Bath – local no-frills option

• Location: Corner of Grishashvili Street & Abano II Deadend (⚑)
• Opening hours: 7am-10pm daily
• Price: 5 GEL per person (public baths only)
• Reservations required? No

Update: Queen’s Bath is temporarily closed for refurbishment. I will return to update this with new details and photos once it reopens.

Located on the corner near the turn-off for Bohema, Queens Bath is the second communal offering in Abanotubani. This is probably the least glamorous of the lot appearance-wise – but if you’re after a local experience on the cheap, it’s worth considering. Expect lots of bare flesh!

Admission to the public bath costs 5 GEL/hour. A kisi or massage costs 10 GEL, and towel hire is 1.5 GEL. There is also a sauna for 10 GEL, but it’s only for men. Bring your own slippers or flip flops.

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Lisi Bath (at Lisi Lake) – alternative option

• Location: Lisi Lake, 11km from Abanotubani (⚑)
• Opening hours: 7am-11pm daily
• Price: From 15-17 GEL/hour (public) or from 75 GEL per hour (private)
• Reservations required? Not required for the public baths; book private rooms via phone or Facebook

If you don’t mind venturing beyond Abanotubani for your bath experience, Lisi Bath is a great alternative and a local favourite. It’s located on the edge of Lisi Lake, one of Tbilisi’s urban reservoirs. You can make an afternoon of it by strolling around the beautiful green space then finishing with a soak.

Lisi is a Scandinavian/Russian-style bathhouse and very different to the traditional Abanotubani baths. As you can see, the design is modern and minimalist. Inside, bath rooms have concrete walls and simple tiled pools, while the dry saunas are typical Scandi-style.

The public bath here costs 17 GEL/hour for men (open early from 7.30am) and 15 GEL/hour for women. There are 5 private rooms of various sizes to choose from as well, ranging from 75-120 GEL/hour. I chose one of the simpler rooms, which has a hot pool only (no cold pool) and private showers.

Towel hire costs 3 GEL and a kisi scrub is 15 GEL per person.

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Kiev Sulfur Bath (in Chugureti) – suburban option

• Location: 4 Kiev Street, Chugureti (Marjanishvili) (⚑)
• Opening hours: 8am-2am daily
• Price: From 70 GEL/hour (private rooms only)
• Reservations required? Not mandatory but recommended (book via phone or in person)

Located in Marjanishvili, not too far from Fabrika, Kiev Sulfur Bath (AKA Mejuda Bath) on Kiev Street is another local favourite. This used to be a typical no-frills neighbourhood bathhouse, the kind families relied on in the 90s to get clean when there was no running water at home. In 2019, it was partially refurbished and in 2022, several of the rooms were completely renovated.

The boxy Soviet-style facade remains, but the communal baths were done away with. Now there are 10 private rooms that start from as little as 70 GEL/hour. The upstairs baths are pretty retro (I actually love the gaudy tiles!) while the luxe renovated rooms (the most expensive is around 110 GEL/hour) have less character but are much more modern.

The smell of sulfur hits you pretty hard as soon as you walk in the front door, so I assume this bathhouse runs on natural springs even though it’s on the opposite side of the river to the main bath district.

It’s best to visit this bathhouse during the day when the women are working the front desk as opposed to after-hours. Not much English is spoken but in my experience, they are always very friendly and welcoming.

This place has a huge ‘menu’ of massage services for 30-65 GEL including sports massage, hot stone massage and even a coffee body scrub. A regular kisi costs 20 GEL (or 25 GEL with massage added) and towel hire costs 2 GEL.

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Visiting the Tbilisi sulfur baths: FAQ & additional tips

Is a sulfur bath right for you…?

Visiting the baths isn’t for everyone. A Tbilisi sulfur bath might not be the best choice for you if…

• You’re shy about getting naked in public. As mentioned, it is possible to bathe naked in complete privacy. It’s also possible to wear swimmers inside the bath. But if you’re sheepish about nudity, you still might feel uncomfortable. In this case, I definitely recommend booking a private room and avoiding the massage/scrub. (Having said that, in my experience, Mekise therapists in Tbilisi are always same-sex and professional.)
• You’re very sensitive about germs and hygiene. As a germ-sensitive person myself (especially when it comes to feet), I did find the baths a bit of a challenge. Private rooms are a little better and visibly clean at least, but I doubt the hygiene practices are terribly thorough. Needless to say, you shouldn’t put your head under or drink the water, ever! Personally, I would avoid using the baths if you have a cut or deep scratch.
• You’re unsteady on your feet. Bath rooms get incredibly wet and slippery, so you really have to take care.
• You’re sun burnt or you have very sensitive skin. I obviously can’t offer medical advice – but a massage/scrub involves some pretty intense scouring. If you have sensitive skin or sunburn, I imagine this would be incredibly painful. You can still do the bath, but skip the scrub.
• You’re pregnant. Most bathhouses warn against using the baths if you’re pregnant and might refuse entry if you are.

What to bring with you to the baths

Unless you decide to go nude, you’ll need to bring a swimsuit with you. For women, bikinis are best so that you can get your top half scrubbed. Men can get away with wearing undies (no board shorts or boxers). Just remember to bring a dry pair to change into afterwards.

Sulfur water is known to stain dark colours. I’ve never had a problem, but just keep this in mind. Definitely rinse out your gear before you leave. A waterproof bag to carry home your wet things is also a good idea, since baths don’t provide plastic bags.

Towels can be hired for an extra fee. If you prefer to use your own, bring something lightweight like a Turkish pestemal. Soap can be purchased for an additional fee if you need it. Plastic slippers and hairdryers are provided, but you should bring your own comb.

Cold drinking water is a big one. The hot baths can be very dehydrating, especially in summer. At some bathhouses, you do get hot tea at the end, but when you’re sweating, you’ll start craving cold water. I highly recommend bringing a bottle with you.

If you have a private room, it’s safe to bring your camera or phone so you can take photos inside your room. Photography is not allowed in the public baths.

What to leave at home

I wouldn’t bring excessive of cash or other valuables unless you have to. You may be asked to show ID to confirm an online booking, so it’s not a bad idea to have a photo or copy of your passport.

Leave your jewellery (especially silver jewellery) at home or else it may get tarnished.

Are children allowed in the sulfur baths?

Yes, kids are allowed inside the sulfur baths as long as you book a private room. There are no age restrictions – I have heard of families taking kids as young as 5 into the baths.

If in doubt, ask the receptionist at the time of booking. But I have never heard of a bath turning children away.

How much is a sulfur bath in Tbilisi?

Prices for the Tbilisi sulfur baths range from 5-10 GEL for the public baths up to 70-130 GEL on average for a private room.

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A bath to remember: Our experience at Gulo’s Thermal Spa

Looking back on the past few years, some of my most memorable travel experiences have happened when I was feeling vulnerable. Giving in and going with the flow doesn’t come naturally to a Type A Traveller like me; but those times when I did manage to let go – or I was forced to – are moments I often look back on with a smile.

What could possible be more vulnerable than getting naked in front of a stranger?

I’m fascinated by the way nakedness is treated in different cultures. I don’t actively seek out opportunities to take my clothes off in public (control freak, remember), but any time the occasion presents itself, its always going to be a memorable experience – for better or for worse.

A perfect example: In Morocco, we visited Les Bains du Marrakech for a black soap scrub. Being manhandled by a robust Moroccan woman was awkward as hell, but we loved it! (These experiences are always better when shared with someone you can giggle about it with later.)

When we heard about the sulfur baths in Tbilisi, we didn’t hesitate in booking in for a thermal bath and massage – that’s despite the baths receiving very mixed reviews online.

Here is a detailed account of our first trip to Tbilisi’s sulfur baths.

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We received a recommendation for King’s Bath, but in the end we went with family-run Gulo’s Thermal Spa because it was easy to book online.

After inquiring by private message on Facebook a few days in advance, someone from Gulo’s sent us a photo collage of the different rooms plus quotes. (I’ve included a cost breakdown at the end of this post.) We reserved a mid-range room for a standard one-hour visit.

On the afternoon of our appointment we left home early just in case we had trouble finding Gulo’s. Staff sent us detailed instructions, so we had no trouble finding the unmarked door.

Despite being 20 minutes early for our appointment, we were immediately ushered from the round reception area into the private room we had pre-booked.

We requested two big towels and a bar of soap for an additional cost. The lady who showed us to our room asked if we wanted a massage. We agreed.

The room was split into two sections: the first part, a dry room with a big leather couch, had marble walls and beautiful tiled floors. This is where we prepared for our bath.

The woman closed the door behind her but we were mindful not to lock it. We changed, hung up our clothes and put our bags on the couch.

The second room, the wet room, was separated from the first by a glass door and even though it gets foggy, you can still keep a cursory eye on your stuff from the bath if you wish. (Remember, this is Tbilisi, one of the safest cities in the world.)

Naked and a bit nervous, we headed into the bath room. This particular bathhouse dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Rooms are decorated in both Roman and Arabic style, with marble, tiled murals and brickwork. Ours wasn’t the most luxe interior, but the domed roof and huge hot tub made an awesome impression.

I was surprised that the smell of sulfur wasn’t at all strong; it was actually quite pleasant inside if not a little difficult to breathe. It’s etiquette to take a shower before you jump in the bath, so that’s exactly what we did.

The showers are the most rudimentary part of the set up, just a couple of plastic pipes clinging to one wall. Adjoining the main room we noticed a toilet and a two-person sauna. Showered, we cautiously climbed into the larger of the two pools, the hot bath.

After a long soak we dunked ourselves in the icy cold plunge pool.

A word of warning: The hot bath is very hot. It didn’t take long for me to start feeling light headed. As soon as we got in the hot pool, the water started gushing over the edge and completely soaked the tiled floor. It gets rather wet, steamy and slippery in there, so watch your step.

After about 15 minutes of repeated soaking and dunking we noticed that someone had entered the other room. By this point, the glass door was completely fogged up so all we could make out was the rough outline of a figure.

We sat tentatively on the twin stone slabs that serve as massage beds and negotiated who would go first.

I turned to look again and noticed that the Mekise was taking off her clothes. That makes sense, I thought, as everything was super wet and as you’ll see, the massage treatment is quite involved.

The door finally opened and we both looked over, fully expecting a topless woman to walk in. (It’s funny how we often make these assumptions without any real evidence to support them.)

So when a big, hairy Georgian guy in tropical-print board shorts strode confidently through the door, I was pretty taken aback. I wish I could have seen the look on my face.

I squeezed out a pathetic gamarjoba and did my best to play it cool, adjusting my position to preserve whatever dignity I had left. Gingerly, I sat there watching as the Mekise started Ross’ treatment.

The VIP treatment

The treatment was less of a massage and more of a full-body exfoliation a la Marrakech. Using a mitten that was abrasive enough to take off a few layers of dead skin, he scrubbed Ross’ entire body – from the bottom of his feet to his face… Yup.

Next he took a fabric pillow case out of a soapy bucket, shook it and twisted it so that it was full of air. This technique seemed to make the water extra sudsy. The Mekise soaped Ross up, washed his hair then rinsed him off with a few buckets of hot water. Then he instructed Ross to head into the sauna.

Naked, I was now alone with the Mekise who was busy washing his gear (and himself) under the shower.

Different scenarios started playing out in my head. Was this guy going to wash me too? Is this appropriate? Should I opt out?

He pointed at the hot bath and motioned for me to climb in. Getting from the slab to the tub was probably the most awkward part of the whole experience, but I relaxed once I was safely hidden under the water.

I must have been holding my neck, a bad habit of mine, because he turned to me and asked if I was in pain. He was a lovely guy and very genuine – it was a human moment that made me relax a little bit more.

The Mekise was still busy washing and rinsing cloths, filling and emptying buckets. Then he told me to get out and lie down on the slab. Face down on my stomach, anticipation was at an all-time high as I prepared to feel the touch of this total stranger on my back.

I opened my eyes to try and see what was going on and right in my line of sight… Let’s just say this is the moment I realised the Mekise was now naked too.

I snapped my eyes closed, realising I was probably lying in this position for his privacy, not for my own. I started worrying that maybe he’d seen me looking… Argh! So much was running through my head at this point, the next part is a bit of a blur.

(I should probably mention that this guy was a consummate professional and that all this awkwardness was totally on me.)

I guess he finished what he was doing because he pulled Ross out of the sauna and they both left the room. I was still unsure of what was happening but feeling relieved to be alone.

Not long after, an older woman came in, fully dressed, and proceeded to scrub me down. Having watched Ross’ treatment it was obvious that my scour was a lot less intense. It still did the job and felt great.

When it was all over, she left and Ross was allowed to come back in. We went for a few more rounds of hot-bath-cold-bath before we’d had enough.

By the time we got changed and took a few photos, exactly one hour had elapsed. They seem to time everything very well. We headed back to the reception area and sat down for a complementary cup of tea.

We weren’t alone. The Mekise was sitting on a couch right opposite us – I barely recognised him with his clothes on. Ever the professional, he politely smiled at us before leaving to tend to another client.

We quickly finished our tea, paid in cash, and walked out into a balmy May afternoon.

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Final thoughts: Key things to remember before you book a Tbilisi sulfur bath

• Make sure you arrive early for your appointment. Give yourself 20 minutes leeway to make payment and buy your supplies.
• If you don’t want to go nude, bring your bathers.
• There are no clocks in the private rooms, so set an alarm on your phone so you don’t overstay your hour.
• If you order a massage, remember to leave the main door unlocked so that the Mekise therapist can get inside.
• Do bring your camera if you’re hiring a private room – but please don’t attempt to take photos in the public baths!
• We felt perfectly comfortable leaving our valuables in the private room – if you are concerned about security, bring a lock for your bag and consider locking the door once the Mekise has left.
• Bring your own towel, soap and shampoo if you want to save money.

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More Tbilisi travel resources

• 23 Tbilisi travel tips – essential reading for first-timers
• How to plan your Caucasus travel itinerary
• What to pack for a trip to Georgia (and what to wear in Georgia)
• How to get from Tbilisi airport to the city
• The best things to do in Tbilisi – my city guide
• Where to stay in Tbilisi – best neighbourhoods & accommodations
• The best restaurants in Tbilisi – where to eat out
• The best cafes in Tbilisi – coworking & coffee
• The best breakfasts in Tbilisi – including traditional Georgian meals
• The best gift shops in Tbilisi – where to buy your souvenirs
• The best walking tours in Tbilisi – discover the city by foot
• Tbilisi’s best walking streets – architecture, people-watching & street photography
• The best boutique hotels in Tbilisi – art hotels, wine hotels & more
• The best hostels in Tbilisi – accommodation on a budget
• Visiting the Dezerter Bazaar – Tbilisi’s incredible green market
• How to get from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi and what to do in Georgia’s wine region

For even more inspiration and resources, check out my new Georgia Travel Guide and my Georgia itinerary.

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