My complete 10-day itinerary for an adventurous Georgia (country) road trip from Tbilisi to Batumi. Includes recommended stops, times and distances, and driving tips.
Back in summer 2020 – six months after I moved to Tbilisi from Australia – I hired a car in Georgia and drove myself (and my husband, Ross) around the country for the first time.
It was an unforgettable trip, and the start of my unlikely love affair with driving in Georgia. (After renting cars for the past four years, Ross and I recently bought our own!)
Since then, we have done two dozen more road trips in Georgia, exploring different regions and criss-crossing the country to scout out the best routes.
The 10-day itinerary I have designed is perfect for return visitors and offbeat travellers. It hits on many of the must-sees (seven regions and two of Georgia’s four UNESCO sites) while focusing on more remote and obscure destinations that you simply can’t do justice without a car.
It avoids the main highways (including the new Rikoti Expressway) and follows scenic detours and village backroads instead. It packs a lot in, but it also includes a couple of quieter days for exploring Meskheti, Racha and Guria – three of the most underrated regions.
This itinerary can be done in spring, summer or autumn, and it does not require a 4WD or any special driving skills. At the end, you will find four route modifications that you can use to add other destinations to your itinerary.
If you’re not afraid of getting off the beaten path, here’s how you can see some of the country’s most dramatic passes and loveliest small villages, discover heritage monasteries and hidden treasures from Soviet times, and immerse yourself in Georgia’s tea history and alternative wine regions.
This itinerary shows a core 10-day structure for southern and western Georgia. It is intentionally paced, and complete as written. If you have more time, optional extensions (including Svaneti) are outlined at the bottom.
→ On the fence about self-driving in Georgia? Read this guide first for a realistic look at roads and the driving style, or see my Georgia travel itinerary using public transportation that is suitable for everyone.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
Places visited on my Georgia road trip
Here is a quick summary of the main places you will visit. There are many more stops included in the detailed itinerary below.
- Asureti — German architecture & heritage in Kvemo Kartli Region
- The Didgori Battle Memorial — a breathtaking monument & one of the country’s most scenic drives
- The Javakheti Plateau — the lesser-visited lake district
- Vardzia — Georgia’s biggest & most impressive cave city
- Saro & ancient Meskheti Region — castles, megalithic ruins & unique cuisine
- Borjomi & Abastumani — mineral water springs & Romanov history
- Chiatura & Sachkhere — mosaics, cable cars & other relics from the Soviet period
- Katskhi Pillar — the iconic monastery perched atop a limestone column
- Racha-Lechkhumi Region — an alternative mountain region for hiking & wine
- Kutaisi — Georgia’s fourth-biggest city & unofficial capital of culture
- Tskaltubo — semi-abandoned Soviet spas & sanatoriums
- Guria Region — tea country
- The Black Sea Coast — black-sand swimming beaches & seafood
- Batumi — quirky architecture on the Black Sea
Route overview & map
Here is a quick overview of the route plus two interactive driving maps.
- Day 1: Tbilisi to Tsalka via Kvemo Kartli (Didgori, Asureti, Samshvilde) – stay in Tsalka at Edis Dacha
- Day 2: Tsalka to Vardzia via the Javakheti Plateau – stay near the caves at Vardzia Resort
- Day 3: Vardzia & Meskheti (Saro & Akhaltsikhe) – stay in Akhaltsikhe at Old Street
- Day 4: Abastumani & Borjomi – stay in Borjomi at Golden Tulip
- Day 5: Borjomi to Oni via Chiatura & Katskhi Pillar – stay in Oni at Family Hotel Gallery
- Day 6: Racha-Lechkhumi (Lailashi, Sairme Pillars, Khvanchkara) – stay in Oni at Family Hotel Gallery
- Day 7: Oni to Kutaisi via Gelati Monastery & Tkibuli – stay in Kutaisi at Communal
- Day 8: Kutaisi & Tskaltubo – stay in Kutaisi at Communal
- Day 9: Guria (Ozurgeti, Anaseuli & Bakhmaro) – stay in Ozurgeti at Komli or Menabde Winery
- Day 10: Ozurgeti to Batumi via the Black Sea Coast – stay in Batumi at Kartuli Hotel
The new Rikoti Highway
To the best of my knowledge, this is the only Georgia driving itinerary available online that accounts for the new highway between Tbilisi and Batumi.
The Rikoti Highway includes 97 new bridges and 51 new tunnels. It was completed last year, and officially opened in December 2025.
While the new highway is excellent for travelling efficiently from one side of the country to the other, the ‘scenic route’ through the southern part of Georgia is much more rewarding.
If you follow my alternative itinerary, you will skip the Rikoti Highway and get to explore what is altogether a lesser-visited (and in my mind, much more beautiful) part of the country.
It does involve a bit more driving on the first day, but it is more than worth the extra time behind the wheel.
What about Tbilisi?
There is no reason to drive in Tbilisi – in fact, having a car in Tbilisi is more of a liability than anything. I recommend spending time in the capital when you first arrive in Georgia and only hiring a car for the days you spend outside of the city.
For most travellers, 2-3 full days in Tbilisi is ample time. Use the bus and metro network to get around, or simply explore the Old Town core and its many different neighbourhoods on foot.
→ Discover 51 of the best things to do in Tbilisi in my city guide.
What about the wine region?
Visiting Georgia’s main wine region, Kakheti, is a highlight of any trip to Georgia. Because it revolves around vineyards and cellar doors – free-pouring is the norm at wine degustations! – I don’t generally recommend self-driving in Kakheti.
If you are seeking a wine experience, it is a better idea to do a dedicated wine tour from Tbilisi. If you do have a designated driver in your party and still wish to include Kakheti on your road trip, you will find an option to add the Wine Route at the end.
My itinerary visits an alternative wine region in Racha and includes opportunities for wine tasting in Imereti and Guria.
→ See my Kakheti itinerary for more ideas.
What about the mountains (Kazbegi, Svaneti, Adjara)?
Georgia’s mountain roads are the most challenging in the country. Many factors come into play here: infrastructure and upkeep, weather, and in the case of the Georgian Military Highway, traffic and trucks.
My itinerary visits Racha, an alternative mountain region that is popular among Georgians but lesser known to international visitors. I like this area because it is much quieter and the roads are easy to navigate.
If you want to add Mestia, Kazbegi or Khulo to your Georgia itinerary, you will find optional extensions at the end. These destinations are weather-dependent and require you to be a confident driver.
→ For 4x4s and off-roading vehicles, I recommend hiring from Martyna z Gruzji (mention me to get 10% off your rental).
Best time for a driving holiday in Georgia
My itinerary can be done any time between May and November.
Spring and autumn are generally the best times of year to visit Georgia. I recommend driving in late May/early June, or in late September/October. Temperatures are pleasant, it is less crowded, and you will be treated to either blossoming spring wildflowers or beautiful fall foliage.
Renting a car in Georgia
Local Rent is my go-to for car hire. I have used the platform more than a dozen times now in Georgia and in Albania, and it is always a smooth process.
Local Rent differs from larger companies in that it sources cars directly from local agents. Prices are generally much lower – from 35 USD a day.
Most agents do not require a cash deposit or a credit card. The only thing you pay in advance is a small online booking fee, which is refundable. The balance is settled in cash when you pick up the car.
Provided your licence meets the requirements, you do not need an International Driving Permit. All you need is your driving licence and ID (passport). Insurance normally comes included.
You can choose to pick up your car anywhere in the city of origin. The agent will literally deliver the car right to your front door (or to a convenient rendezvous point). The same goes for drop-off.
While this itinerary does not necessarily require a 4WD, it is not a bad idea to take a one. A car with high undercarriage clearance is always a good idea.
5 quick tips for a successful road trip in Georgia
In Georgia, you drive on the right-hand side of the road. Road signs are all in English (or Latin characters), and there are no toll roads.
1. Get an early start — For the most part, the roads are much quieter in the morning (before 10am).
2. Do not drive in Tbilisi — Pick up your car on the outskirts of the city. Local Rent gives you the option to collect your car from any address.
3. Stay on top of the weather & road closures — Conditions can change rapidly, especially in the mountains. Always check locally before you set off, and use the GeoRoad Facebook Page or hotline to stay on top of closures.
4. Be wary of aggressive drivers — Overtaking on single-lane roads is common. The driving style in Georgia is generally pretty haphazard and does take a bit of getting used to. But in my experience, the roads in Georgia feel far worse when you’re a passenger/pedestrian. When you’re behind the wheel, it’s not so bad – especially if you avoid driving in bigger cities.
5. Use Google Maps for navigation — Pick up a local SIM card or eSIM when you arrive. There is no need to hire a GPS unit. It’s a good idea to add on 20-30% more time than Google Maps predicts (to account for traffic, photo stops, and the like).
→ More driving tips and information about hiring a car in Tbilisi
Georgia road trip itinerary: Detailed day by day
Here’s a detailed breakdown of my Georgia road trip itinerary, including drive times, road conditions, things to do in each town/city, and where to stop along the way.
Day 1: Asureti & Kvemo Kartli
Distance: 170 km (106 mi) | Total drive time: 4 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- The Didgori Battle Memorial
- German heritage in Asureti
- Manglisi Sioni
- Samshvilde Canyon hike
Start your Georgia road trip with a stress-free day on the backroads west of Tbilisi. The highways in Kvemo Kartli are usually pretty quiet, meaning you can ease into the driving style at your own pace.
I recommend getting your car delivered to Dighomi (north of the centre) so that you don’t have to drive through Tbilisi. When I did this road trip, I chose an address just off the highway (this restaurant) so it would be easy for me to merge straight onto the highway. This strategy worked really well.
Passing Mtskheta, your first stop is the Didgori Battle Memorial, a magnificent sculptural complex set in the Didgori Valley, 60 minutes’ drive from Tbilisi via an incredibly beautiful, smooth mountain road. It marks the location where King David the Builder defeated the Suljuk Turks in the Battle of Didgori, ushering in the unification of Georgia and the nation’s ‘Golden Age’.
When approaching from the north, be sure to stop at the Trumpeter Warrior sculpture first.
After exploring the vast complex, continue on the same road towards Manglisi. One of the oldest churches in Georgia (the original structure is dated to the 4th century), Maglisi Sioni is worth a quick stop.
Continue 45 minutes to Elisabethtal (today’s Asureti), one of several colonies established in this part of Georgia by Swabian settlers in the early 19th century. The old railway station has been transformed into a German beer garden – a schnitzel and a pretzel at Bahnhof Station is a highlight of any road trip through this region.
After lunch, climb the bell tower at the restored Lutheran Church, and admire the half-timbered Fachwerk houses that line Asureti’s main street. For a little urbex side adventure, the abandoned Wine Cellar of the Kolkhoz ‘Success’ is a 90-minute detour from Asureti via an unsealed country road.
On the way into Asureti, you will have passed the entrance to Birtvisi Canyon – once a popular hiking spot that was recently developed into an attraction and now requires an entry ticket. If you are making good time, consider driving 40 minutes to Samshvilde, an alternative (wild) canyon.
A 30-minute stroll leads to the edge of the canyon, where the ruins of Samshvilde Sioni mark what was once a stronghold of the ancient Kingdom of Kartli.
→ Find directions for the hike in my Kvemo Kartli Guide.
There is a lot more to see and do in Kvemo Kartli – including more German architecture and PDO wineries in Bolnisi, and the world-famous Dmanisi Archaeological Site – but time is of the essence, so I suggest you continue west to make it to Tsalka before nightfall.
Check into Edis Dacha before grabbing dinner at the Pontic Greek restaurant Pontia.
Day 2: Paravani Lake & the Javakheti Plateau
Distance: 130 km (81 mi) | Total drive time: 3 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Paravani Lake, Georgia’s largest natural lake
- Poka St. Nino’s Convent & shop
- Birdwatching on Bughdasheni Lake
- Doukhobor culture in Gorelovka
Before departing Tsalka, walk out to the tiny St. George Church near Edis Dacha (overlooking the popular Dashbashi Canyon), visit the vibrantly painted Tsalka Mosque, or pick through the fields closer to the reservoir to track down the Mesolithic Petroglyphs.
→ For locations and tips, refer to my Tsalka-Javakheti Guide.
Spend the rest of the day touring Javakheti, an elevated plateau backed by dormant volcanoes and dotted with more than 60 gemstone lakes. The Protected Areas are an important nesting ground for birds, with big skies and dramatic landscapes unfolding as you drive along one of Georgia’s most beautiful roads.
On the shore of Paravani Lake, a 45-minute drive from Tsalka, you will see the ruins of a Silk Road caravanserai. Poka St. Nino’s Convent at the southern tip of the lake has a pretty church overlooking the water and a terrific shop where you can buy jams, chocolate truffles and natural beauty products hand-made by the resident nuns.
Take a short detour towards the Turkish border for Bughdasheni and Madatapa, my two favourite lakes. The former is small enough to walk around, while Madatapa is always teeming with birdlife.
For lunch, Family Corner Hotel & Restaurant sits between Paravani and Saghamo Lakes, and offers fresh fish and Georgian-Armenian dishes. Owners Samvel and Hasmik are incredible hosts.
South towards the Armenian border, Gorelovka is one of the half a dozen villages in this area settled by Doukhobor families exiled from Russia in the early 20th century. The gates to their turquoise-blue Prayer House are often unlocked, permitting visitors to walk the grounds. I have been lucky enough to go inside the Prayer House on two occasions.
Please remember that this is a sacred place that should be treated with respect.
In the late afternoon, drive another 90 minutes to spend the night at Vardzia Resort, the perfect base for visiting the cave city on day 3. The hotel has a restaurant where you can grab an easy dinner.
If you run out of daylight, the town of Ninotsminda is 15 minutes’ drive from Gorelovka and has a wonderful family run hotel (Hotel Sonya) that is more than adequate for a good night’s rest.
Day 3: Vardzia, Akhaltsikhe & Meskheti
Distance: 60 km (37 mi) | Total drive time: 1.5 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Vardzia, Georgia’s biggest cave city
- Megalithic ruins in Saro village
- Khertvisi & Tmogvi Fortresses
- Qvevri beer tasting at Amphora Beer
- Akhaltsikhe Castle (Rabati Fortress)
- Traditional Meskhetian cuisine
Try to arrive at Vardzia first thing in the morning when gates open at 10am. Opt in for the audio guide, and take advantage of the shuttle service to save time walking up the hill to the entrance.
Composed of 300 rock-hewn chambers arranged over 13 levels, Vardzia is a vast complex. It takes approximately two hours to walk the marked paths and explore the various chapels, nooks and crannies.
→ For more tips and tricks, see my Vardzia Visitor’s Guide.
On your way out of Vardzia, stop at this viewpoint for a nice panorama of the entire cliffside. The drive back to the main road along the Mtkvari River is absolutely spectacular – look out for watchtowers perched high on hilltops, and terraced vineyards cut from the riverbank. Khertvisi Fortress recently reopened to the public and it is worth stopping to go inside.
Travel north for another 7 kilometres then take the turnoff for Saro, following the new road up to the village. Saro is one of my favourite places in Meskheti region.
Park outside the Archangel of Saro Church and greet the nuns (say hello to Teona for me!) before walking out to the plateau and examining the lichen-covered megalithic ruins. If you have time, you can follow the marked hiking trail down to Nijgori and back. The scenery is breathtaking.
There is an option to stop at Amphora Beer on your way up to Akhaltsikhe. This family run brewery and beer spa (yes, really!) has half a dozen different ales on tap, all made in-house using local hops and fermented in the same clay qvevri traditionally used for wine. Advance bookings are required.
In Akhaltsikhe city, prioritise visiting Akhaltsikhe Castle (AKA Rabati Fortress) and the exceptional Samtskhe-Javakheti History Museum located on its grounds.
Just across the river, Old Bar has an entire menu dedicated to Meskhetian delicacies that are tricky to find outside of this region. I recommend trying the apokhti khinkali (dumplings filled with dried meat), the local khachapuri (made with crispy pastry) and the lokokina (Georgian-style escargot!).
→ For more things to do, see my Akhaltiskhe Guide.
Overnight at the foot of Akhaltiskhe Castle at Old Street Guesthouse.
Day 4: Abastumani & Borjomi
Distance: 100 km (62 mi) | Total drive time: 2 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Stargazing at Abastumani Observatory
- Romanov history & imperial architecture
- Drinking Borjomi mineral water direct from the spring
Staying in Samtskhe-Javakheti region, today is all about Romanov heritage and Georgia’s famous mineral water resorts. Start with a 45-minute drive up to Abastumani, a climactic retreat nestled in the Lesser Caucasus and enveloped by Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park.
Abastumani’s main street is one of the prettiest streets in Georgia. The restored dacha houses date to the 1890s, when Grand Duke George Alexandrovich Romanov (younger brother of Tsar Nicholas II) was sent to Abastumani for tuberculosis treatment. If you want to try the famous healing waters, the public bathhouse has been recently renovated.
Set atop Mount Kanobili, the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory opened in 1932 as the first facility of its kind in the USSR. The dedicated team of resident scientists offer tours in English on demand throughout the season, including a chance to peer through one of the retro telescopes. It is truly one of the best tour experiences in Georgia and not to be missed.
→ For more information about booking the tour, see my Abastumani Travel Guide.
Pop into the St. Panteleimon Convent to see the Romanov Palace on its grounds from after, then grab lunch at Ifani before leaving Abastumani for the 1.5-hour drive to this area’s second (far more popular) Romanov-era resort town, Borjomi.
Arrive in the late afternoon for a stroll through Central Park, where you can drink the famous mineral water direct from the original Romanov-era springs. Cafe Iggy is a great option for dinner (order the trout).
→ For more things to do on your evening in Borjomi, see my Borjomi Guide.
Overnight in Borjomi at Golden Tulip.
Day 5: Chiatura & Katskhi Pillar
Distance: 175 km (109 mi) | Total drive time: 4 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Katskhi Pillar
- Riding the cable cars in Chiatura
- The scenic Sachkhere-Zudali Road to Racha
- Home-cooked dinner at Family Hotel Gallery
Today’s drive is long but rewarding as you leave Georgia’s mystical south and enter the mountainous north.
Departing Borjomi, follow the river north to join up with the main east-west highway at Khashuri. This small city is a pit-stop on the highway and the railway line and is known for producing hammocks, which you will see at small shops all along the roadside.
Nearby, Surami is a small town that dates back to the Bronze Age. If you want to stretch your legs, climb up to the top of the 12th-century Surami Fortress for a view over the plains. This castle has a fascinating myth attached to it – you can learn all about it by watching The Legend of Surami Fortress, a 1985 film by the beloved Tbilisi-born director Sergei Parajanov.
Whilst in Surami, grab a piece of nazuki, a sweet bread that is made in the same clay oven as shotis puri only it is brushed with a sugary glaze and has raisins mixed through (it sort of tastes like a giant hot cross bun). There are dozens of roadside bakeries that sell this Surami specialty.
Whenever I come through here with a Georgian driver, they always take me to Nazuki by Sergo – apparently it’s the best!
Instead of continuing on the highway, dart briefly east to find the Gomi-Sachkhere-Chiatura Road. This alternative road cuts up through mountainous Imereti and is a much quieter route into the highlands.
You will return to the town of Sachkhere later – for now, continue 13 kilometres further to Chiatura. Refuel with a home-cooked meal at the lovely Lunch at Lia (advanced reservations required), and take a quick walk through the local museum to learn about Chiatura’s mining history. Ride the new cable cars (the Sanatorium Line leads to a viewpoint and the old Pioneer Palace), and test your mettle on the recently restored Soviet-era gondola.
→ See my detailed guide to Chiatura for cable car station locations and more suggestions.
A little further down the road, Katskhi Column is the iconic monastery perched atop a lone limestone pillar in the forest. Drive to the marked viewpoint then walk to the base of the pillar for a small museum and cloister.
Note that climbing up the pillar is strictly forbidden.
Aiming to leave Chiatura by mid-afternoon, retrace your steps back to Sachkhere, the starting point for the Sachkhere-Zudali Road. Sealed a few years ago, it is yet another incredibly scenic stretch of highway. Whenever I drive this road, I only ever encounter a handful of other cars.
The 60-kilometre, switchback-rich road links Imereti with Racha-Leckhumi region, passing pretty villages and lush forests along the way. Allow about 90 minutes for the drive.
Oni is the first major town you come to when the highway ends – and this is your base in Racha for the next two nights.
Check into the delightful Family Hotel Gallery ahead of a home-cooked Rachan dinner by the fireplace (put in a special request for shkmeruli, the garlic chicken dish that is a specialty here).
Day 6: Oni & Racha-Lechkhumi
Distance: ~ 130 km (80 mi) | Total drive time: ~ 4 hrs return
Today’s highlights:
- One of Georgia’s oldest synagogues in Oni
- Sairme Pillars hike
- Lailashi Secret Pool
- Rachan fare at Tchrebalo Wine Cellar
- Khvanchkara wine tasting
Devote day 6 to exploring Racha-Lechkhumi, the ‘alternative’ mountain region that most tourists tend to overlook. I think it is one of the most beautiful places in Georgia – there are hiking trails, cute villages, and Racha has a great wine region with multiple vineyards that offer tours and tastings.
Once home to Georgia’s third-largest Jewish community, Oni is dripping with history. Their legacy lives on in the divine Oni Synagogue, which shines like a gem on a quiet suburban street. Built in the 1880s by a Polish architect and skilled labourers from Thessaloniki, it is one of my favourite pieces of architecture in Georgia.
Head west into Lechkhumi. The terrain here is all limestone pillars and canyons, twisting streams and spectacular passes. At certain points, the road cuts under giant boulders, making you feel as though you’re driving through a stone tunnel.
One of the best ways to immerse yourself in the landscape is by following the easy marked trail to the base of the Sairme Pillars. It takes around an hour over a paved pathway.
Lailashi is a fascinating village with a Silk Road connection and a synagogue of its own. The Lailashi Secret Pool (or Okronishi Fountain) is a high-altitude, natural cold water swimming pool perched in the mountains. You will also find a preserved synagogue and the ruins of an Armenian church here. There is a new road up to Lailashi that is fully paved and manageable with a sedan.
On the way back to Oni, stop for lunch at the wonderful Tchrebalo Wine Cellar.
You will no doubt notice the vineyards hugging the roadside as you drive through Lower Racha. The most famous wine produced here is Khvanchkara, a sweet red made from a blend of two local grapes.
I highly recommend capping off the day with a wine degustation at one of the small family cellars around Khvanchkara village. Margvelidze Winery in Sadmeli is my top recommendation – alongside incredible wines, they serve homemade nibbles (including Rachan lori ham). The cellar itself and the family’s ancestral wooden house are incredible. Make a reservation a few days in advance.
As an alternative to Lechkhumi, you could delve deeper into the Greater Caucasus to visit Upper Racha. In Shovi, you will find the infamous ‘Stalin’s Dacha’. Beyond the house, Shovi is now off-limits following the tragic mudslide that occurred here in summer 2023.
Further north, there are three more villages: Chiora, Ghebi, and Gona. The latter requires a 4WD, while Chiora and Ghebi have sealed roads. These are very small settlements where the main draw is the beautiful Switzerland-like scenery.
→ For more details, see my full Racha guide.
The weather can change rapidly in this part of Georgia, so always check road conditions before you set off into the mountains (Nika, your host in Oni, can advise).
At the end of a long day exploring, spend a second night at Family Hotel Gallery.
Day 7: Gelati Monastery & Imereti
Distance: 100 km (62 mi) | Total drive time: 3 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Nikortsminda Cathedral
- Tskrajvari hike
- UNESCO-listed Gelati Monastery & Motsameta Monastery
- Imeretian lunch in Gelati village
Today you will leave the mountains of Racha behind and head down to Kutaisi, Georgia’s fourth-biggest city (and my adoptive home!) – but not before making a few more stops in Racha and neighbouring Imereti region.
Day 7 is fairly light in terms of driving, so I suggest you enjoy an easy morning in Oni (perhaps touring the Local Lore Museum or revisiting the synagogue) before hitting the road around midday (timing matters for lunch today).
Make a 20-minute stop to wander down the path to Barakoni Church of the Mother of God, an 18th-century church outside Oni with a gorgeous wooden iconostasis. Racha’s main town, Ambrolauri, is small with no major points of interest aside from a Soviet-era wine factory. Note the roundabout with the oversized Khvanchkara wine bottle as you pass through.
Turn off onto the Kutaisi-Tkibuli-Ambrolauri Road, and aim to arrive at Kesane – Forget Me Not when the restaurant opens at 1pm (note that the kitchen only operates in summer/autumn). The shkmeruli chicken and lobiani bean bread here are a revelation – a meal not to be missed!
Nikortsminda Cathedral, widely considered to be one of Georgia’s most beautiful (including by UNESCO, who have named it a Tentative World Heritage Site), is just down the road. Built between 1010-1014, the stone engravings on the facade are incredibly intricate, but it’s the 17th-century frescoes inside that are really special.
Shaori Lake is an artificial reservoir enveloped in a forest that is popular for swimming and fishing in summer. If you are here in autumn, you will definitely want to stop to admire the fall colours and crunch through the leaves.
Just after the reservoir, you will cross the Nakerala Pass where there is a marked viewpoint. For a really stunning panorama, take the exit after the viewpoint and follow the sealed road towards Tskhrajvari or the Hill of Nine Crosses. Park near the abandoned cable car station and continue on foot, taking care to navigate the paths and steep steps that lead to a tiny peak decorated with crosses and a small chapel. The hike is short, but it does require good shoes.
→ See my Guide to the Tskhrajvari Hike for more insights.
Similar to Chiatura, Tkibuli is another Soviet-era company town built around coal mines. If you’re into Soviet-era architecture, it’s worth stopping at the foot of the Nakerala Pass to find the striking lower cable car station building and the old Pioneer Palace.
The Tkibuli Theatre is the most beautiful building of its kind I have visited in Georgia. The upper level is particularly striking, with painted canvases and sculptures illuminated by floor-to-ceiling windows. If you see the wooden doors to the theatre ajar, don’t be shy about poking your head in – staff are very friendly and can give you a little tour of the building on request.
The final leg down to Kutaisi takes around 75 minutes. You will be passing Gelati Monastery and Motsameta Monastery, so I recommend stopping now to visit both before you hit the city centre (rather than coming back as a side-trip like most people do).
Note that due to ongoing repairs, Gelati Monastery is currently only open on Sundays. The exterior of the main church building is covered, and some of the frescoes are obscured by scaffolding.
When you arrive in Kutaisi, check into Communal and have a light bite at the onsite Doli restaurant.
Day 8: Kutaisi & Tskaltubo
Distance: ~ 30 km (19 mi) | Total drive time: ~ 1 hr return
Today’s highlights:
- Morning at Kutaisi Green Bazaar
- Walking tour of Kutaisi city
- Semi-abandoned sanatoriums & spas in Tskaltubo
- Sunset at Bagrati Cathedral
Day 8 gives you some breathing room to enjoy Kutaisi on foot without too much time in the car.
Start your morning at the thronging Green Bazaar, where fresh herbs are in no short supply, before embarking on a self-guided walking tour of the city. Kutaisi is petite and very walkable, with a French-Catholic Quarter, a Jewish Quarter, and a gamut of interesting small museums.
→ See day 1 of my Kutaisi Itinerary for specific points of interest.
After lunch in the city at Gala or another Kutaisi restaurant, make the 20-minute drive out to Tskaltubo. Developed as a balneological resort in the Soviet era, Tskaltubo was once serviced by direct trains from Moscow and was a favourite place for the party elite (including Stalin himself?) to exercise their ‘right to rest’. Visiting Tskaltubo is like travelling back in time. It is my favourite place in Georgia.
→ My comprehensive Tskaltubo Guide contains a full list of sanatoriums plus a map and a list of locations to prioritise.
If Tskaltubo is not of interest, you could head further west into Samegrelo Region to visit the caves and canyons instead.
Either way, I recommend returning to Kutaisi in time to walk up to Bagrati Cathedral to watch the sunset from the churchyard. Finish your day with a glass of Imeretian wine at Amber Wine, my favourite bar in Kutaisi.
Day 9: Guria Tea Route
Distance: 200 km (124 mi) | Total drive time: 4.5 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Georgian tea degustation
- Driving the Georgian Tea Route
- Collective plantations & tea factories in Anaseuli
- Sunset at Bakhmaro
After breakfast, strike out west into Georgia’s lush Guria region. You will notice the landscape growing greener and more humid as you inch closer and closer towards the Black Sea.
Guria’s regional capital, Ozurgeti is worth a quick stop, particularly to visit the bazaar where you will find people selling fresh tea leaves, hazelnuts by the bag-full, and woven straw hats and baskets.
Keep an eye out for the many vibrant street art murals painted around town, some of which reference the area’s traditions of horsemanship and the Gurian riders who toured with Buffalo Bill in the 1890s.
Venture out into the wide fields and undulating hills to follow Georgia’s Tea Route. Once upon a time, Soviet Georgia was one of the world’s tea producers – and much of the crop came from these collective farms. Working and abandoned tea factories, old plantations and other relics can be seen everywhere. I particularly enjoy the tea fields around Anaseuli, where the old Tropical Plants Research Centre is located.
A plantation tour, Georgian tea degustation – and a long Gurian lunch – can be pre-arranged at Komli or at Teni Tea (pictured below), two family run farms leading the tea revolution.
Guria has two mountain resorts: Gomismta and Bakhmaro. Either makes for a lovely sunset spot. Both have newly sealed roads (sedan-friendly).
Gomismta is closer to Ozurgeti (around 1.5 hours) and does not require much walking, while Bakhmaro is a 2-hour drive from Chokhatauri and needs a one-hour hike to reach the best viewpoint (it’s totally worth it!). If you do decide to drive up for sunset, take extra care when driving down the mountain after dark.
Back in town, grab an easy dinner at Tonusi, Ozurgeti’s brewery-restaurant, before overnighting on the farm at Komli Guest House or inside the beautiful heritage oda house at Menabde Winery.
Day 10: The Black Sea Coast & Batumi
Distance: 75 km (47 mi) | Total drive time: 2 hrs plus stops
Today’s highlights:
- Soviet-era Culture Houses in Shroma & Natanebi
- Black sand beaches in Magnetiti
- Shekvetili Dendrological Park
- Fresh seafood on the waterfront at Taraghana Fish
- Sunset on Batumi Boulevard
The final day of your road trip leads you to the Black Sea Coast and all the way down to Batumi. When I drove this route, I organised to drop off my rental car in Batumi – thankfully Local Rent has reasonable one-way fees.
Once wealthy citrus-farming villages, Shroma and Natanebi are both located off the road between Ozurgeti and the coast. If you are keen to get some more Soviet-era relics in, both are worth visiting – particularly Shroma, which has a well-known Culture House and a restored Village Labour House.
The road from Ozurgeti leads to Guria’s small slice of Black Sea coastline and the resort town of Shekvetili. Spend an hour walking the trails inside Shekvetili Dendrological Park (home to a collection of old-growth trees uprooted and transplanted by an infamous Georgian billionaire), or visit the Miniature Park, an outdoor museum with tiny replicas of famous Georgian landmarks. It’s a lot of fun picking out the buildings you’ve seen in the flesh!
A touch further north, Magnetiti Beach at Ureki is favoured for its magnetic black sands. As a general rule, the further south you go (until you pass Batumi), the more rocky and polluted the beaches get – so if you want to swim in the Black Sea, now is your chance.
From there, it’s simply a matter of following the old coastal highway (or new bypass road) all the way down to Batumi. Note that if you are driving in July/August, traffic along the coastal road can be extremely heavy.
I recommend stopping at Kobuleti to see the mosaics (see my Kobuleti Guide for locations) and to eat a fresh-caught seafood lunch at one of my favourite restaurants in Georgia, Taraghana Fish.
The village of Tsikhisdziri is full of decaying turn-of-the-century palaces that once belonged to Russian generals. One of them has been transformed into a hip restaurant called Shukura. The restored Roman-era ruins of Petra Fortress are worth a visit as well.
If you were taken with the tea history, try hunting down the house built for Cantonese tea expert Liu Junzhou, who came to Georgia on the invitation of a Russian merchant in 1893. It is located just off the highway in Chavki (and will be transformed into a tea museum some day soon – or so I hear!).
Before heading into Batumi city for a sunset stroll along the boulevard, you might like to stop at the Batumi Botanical Garden. It is a highlight of Batumi – both for its walking paths and for its sea views – so if you don’t have time for it now, be sure to return tomorrow.
When you arrive in Batumi, I recommend returning your car on the outskirts of the city so that you don’t have to contend with the traffic. The Railway Station is an ideal rendezvous point, as it’s one of the first landmarks you reach on entering from the north. From there, a Bolt taxi to your accommodation will cost a couple of GEL.
For epic sea views and stylish rooms, stay at Kartuli Hotel on the New Boulevard. For something more central to the Old Boulevard and Old Town, I recommend Mariinsky Hotel.
→ For all the best things to see, do and eat in Batumi, see my Batumi City Guide.
Onward travel from Batumi is easy – the city has a small international airport, or you can easily return to Tbilisi on the high-speed Stadler train.
Extend your Georgia road trip: Optional additions
Option 1: Add Mestia & Ushguli (extra 4-5 days)
If you feel confident self-driving to Svaneti, I would suggest adding Mestia and Ushguli to your itinerary right after Racha-Lechkhumi. Instead of going down to Kutaisi, continue west to Tsageri then drive up into Svaneti via the newly sealed and incredibly beautiful Zagari Pass (open from June to October).
Enjoy a quiet evening and a spectacular sunset in Ushguli, then the next morning, drive from Ushguli to Mestia over another newly sealed road, taking detours into some of the smaller villages along the way. Devote 2-3 days to day hikes and Mestia’ museums, with a night in Mazeri for a slice of quieter Svaneti life.
When you’re ready to come back down to earth, drive through Zugdidi to reach Kutaisi via the Monument Route or the Black Sea.
→ For full details and drive times, see my Svaneti Driving Loop Itinerary.
Option 2: Add Upper Adjara (extra 2-4 days)
Drive to the town of Khulo in mountainous Adjara from Batumi, and continue to Tago village to spend a night at Glamping Tago. If conditions are suitable (and if your rental company allows it), you can continue all the way along the Goderdzi Pass, through the beautiful villages and wooden mosques of Upper Adjara all the way to Akhaltsikhe.
→ For full details and drive times, see my Upper Adjara Driving Itinerary.
Option 3: Return to Tbilisi to make it a loop (extra 1 day)
If you prefer to finish where you started, use the new Rikoti Highway to travel back to Tbilisi from Batumi. I suggest stopping in Gori for the Joseph Stalin Museum and the Free Walking Tour with Zhana, and at Uplistsikhe Cave City.
Option 4: Add Kakheti & Kazbegi (extra 3-4 days)
Kakheti Wine Region and Kazbegi can easily be added to the top of your itinerary. Pick up your rental car on the Kakheti Highway instead and drive to Sighnaghi first before continuing through the valley to Gurjaani and Telavi.
From Telavi, you can head up to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church via the back road through Tianeti.
If you have an extra night up your sleeve, stop in Pankisi Valley to stay at Nazy’s Guest House. Return to Tbilisi via the Georgian Military Highway, and continue from there.
I hope this detailed itinerary gives you an idea of what it’s like to drive around Georgia – and helps you with planning your own Georgia road trip!
Georgia Essentials
Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend for Georgia. Check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insurance is now mandatory for all travellers to Georgia. Insure your trip with HeyMondo, my preferred provider for single-trip and annual policies. Get 5% off when you book with my link.
AIRPORT TRANSFERS: Most flights into Georgia arrive in the early hours. Airport taxis should be avoided at all costs. For ease, pre-book a private transfer from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel or from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi with my partners at GoTrip.ge.
SIM CARD: Magti is my preferred provider, with prices from 10 GEL/week for unlimited data. See this guide for all the details about buying a Georgian SIM card.
ACCOMMODATION: Booking.com is the most widely used platform in Georgia. Use it to find family guesthouses, private apartments, hostels and hotels around the country.
CAR HIRE: Find a great deal on a rental car in Georgia – use the Local Rent website to book through a local agent (prices start from $30/day).
PRIVATE TRANSFERS: GoTrip.ge is a terrific service for booking a private professional driver and car for the day. Use it for A-to-B transfers, a customised round-trip itinerary, or a multi-day trip. You can stop wherever you like for as long as you like without the fixed price going up.
DAY TRIPS & CITY TOURS: Use Viator or Get Your Guide to browse a range of day trips and city tours. For alternative itineraries with expert guides, I recommend Friendly.ge. Use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off.
WINE TOURS: For in-depth day trips to Georgia’s wine regions, I recommend Eat This! Tours. Use the promo code wanderlush for 5% off.
HI Emily, thank you so much for your tips and experiences! Do you know if there are still ongoing the roadworks on the road Tskaltubo-Tsageri, I remember some months ago there was an unpaved tram but don’t remember where exactly…Thnx!
Hello Koldo, I was there 2 days ago and yes, there are still a lot of works going on on that stretch, especially around Ghvedi. We were able to move without issues though. They are actively working on the road now, so I hope it will be finished soon!
Hi Emily, thank you for all teh work you put into this site! We are flying into Kutaisi and renting a 4×4 with rooftent there, which we will hand in in Tblisi. We will then take public transport back to Kutaisi to fly back out. How would you recommend adjusting the itenerary of the roadtrip?
Hi Jet, thanks! How many days do you have? And when are you travelling?
There’s a few options, but I would do something like Kutaisi-Guria-Zugdidi-Mestia-Ushguli-Racha, then either continue directly east via Sachkhere or come back down through Kutaisi and head south to Akhaltsikhe then across Javakheti back to Tbilisi.
I echo everyone’s sentiments. This is a great blog! We are aim day 2 of your driving itinerary and realizing that this is going to be a rainy week. Are there any parts of the trip where you would be cautious driving during or after the rain? Thank you!
Hi Erin, thank you!
The weather report is often more doom and gloom than reality, especially in the highlands where rain is isolated. There is nothing specific as all these roads are nicely sealed, but I would just be mindful of being more cautious overall, as you would do in any context when the roads might be slippery and visibility reduced.
Keeping my fingers crossed that you get some sunshine!
Thanks so much! I see that most days this week are around 5-7 mm, a very light rain, but two predict 25mm. We were thinking of adding in the route to Ushguli after Racha, and spending a few days there. On one of your pages, you reference heavy rain as a risk factor for rockslides. I don’t have a sense if 2 days of 25mm counts as a lot of rain for this region.
Hi Erin, it’s hard to say, but that road is definitely not safe in wet weather because of landslide risk. You can always reroute through Zugdidi if you feel it’s too wet.
Hi Emily! Thank you for the tips and details! Your blog has been very important in our Georgia trip planning. Regarding 4×4 car rental, I saw that you recommend Martyna z Gruzji, although I couldn’t find much information on them on Trust Pilor and other review websites. Just wondering if this was an old recommendation or if its still valid now (July 2025). Thanks!
Hi Giovanna, still valid for 2025. You will not find them on Trustpilot, they are a small company.
Hello, I am planning a road trip starting at Batumi. I was thinking of doing a loop back to Batumi and taking the train to back to Tiblisi. Do you have a recommendation as to how to alter your published itinerary so I could loop back to it to Batumi? Every time I research something about Georgia your posts are the most helpful. Thanks in advance.
Hi John – I would just reverse the itinerary then use the main highway to get back. That is the most efficient option!
Hi, Many thanks for this. I have been hooked to your site for days now and love reading your details on different parts of Georgia.
I will be coming over with my family (2 adults + 2 under 12 boys) in early February, and after 2 days in Batumi, I will be in Bakuriani for 2 days. After Bakuriani, I have almost 2 days (1 travel + 1 free day) left before my return flight from Batumi, and honestly, I don’t know what to do.
My kids are not into history, so Vardzia and Soviet Mosaic along the route are unfortunately a no. Can you please suggest some place or resorts from Bakuriani towards Batumi. Kindy note that I don’t want to go towards Gori, Tbilisi, etc, as I will be returning in August for them.
Thank you Asif! Borjomi is the obvious choice – it is quite pretty in winter too. Shekvetili has a couple of kid-friendly attractions but it will be quiet on the coast in the off season. Guria is another option.
Hi, really nice blog. Thank you for compiling the information. We found it very useful as we are planning a 10 day trip in September. Do you recommend doing this trip with a camper van? Is it safe camping in a camper van in Georgia? Thanks
Hi Alok, yes certainly! Campervanning is quite popular here. Enjoy your trip!
I just came back from a 6-day road trip from Tbilisi and back. I mainly used your itinerary (skipping some parts of course) and also many of your other articles about Kakheti, driving in Georgia, etc. I would like to thank you a lot for this blog, it is an amazing source of inspiration and it made my trip an unforgettable experience. Although with hindsight I would get an SUV, mainly because I unknowingly embarked on the mountain road between Akhaltsikhe and Batoumi on Toyota Prius. luckily I survived, somehow… anyway the highlight for me was Tskaltubo, it was the most creepy (yet wonderful) experience to explore the abandoned bathhouses.
Sounds like an adventure, Matej! It’s amazing what a Prius can do in Georgia! Many thanks for your comment and feedback.
Where would you suggest adding KAKHETI & KAZBEGI (option 3)? Towards the end of the trip or at the beginning? I would like to add this option to the 10-day itinerary. Is there any other places to go for first timers?
Is this doable in November? I am totally following this for my trip.
Thanks for this super comprehensive itinerary!
Hi Wei, terrific! Yes November is a great time for this, you will catch some nice foliage up in Racha if you are here in the first week of November.
If you are returning to Tbilisi, I would add it at the end, just because Kazbegi is a more challenging road and it would be ideal to have some experience under your belt by that point. Otherwise you can add it at the start of your itinerary to ensure better conditions up in the mountains (as the weather will change as November rolls on).
I hope this helps! Wishing you a safe drive and an amazing trip!
Hii Emily
This is Allen,
I am sooo excited to go on a 10-day trip to Georgia from Dubai, during the Ramadan holidays !!!
I read this blog every other day lol, now it feels like i know the place
I have a question, idk if you would know… but is it safe to rent a motorbike and go on this road trip?? Also, are there enough petrol pumps along the way??
Thank you Allen!! Motorbiking is not so popular here, but yes it is possible. I can put you in touch with a rental company if you like. There are plenty of petrol pumps along the way!
Your blog is the best with not only the little details but also makes an interesting read. Thank you for taking the time to write this , we just landed in today and will be driving around using a bit of your itinerary. Hoping to get some snowfall …
Hi Emily,
Very helpful blog!
My boyfriend and I just rented a Kia Picanto (small carr) for this summer, but we are now thinking if the car would be good enough to do the road trip. Considering there are quite a few mountain roads.What do you think? are most things accessible with a small carr?
Hi John – it really depends on where you are planning to go. Personally I like to take a 4WD for longer road trips as you never know when you might encounter road works or an unpaved section.
Hi Emily, First of all congrats to your blog , and trip recommendations in Georgia. Your achievement and contribution is phantastic. We are a small private group from Hungary (4 adults and 3 girls (20 years), first visit in this lovely country and start to organise our program private, for our own purpose. We will have 10 days time starting Kutaisi and ending Kutaisi in the hot end July – beginning August timeframe. We prefer the must/have places, history but love the nature very much, with small hiking / walking tours (up to 10 km long), as well. You have so many recommendation but it is difficult to find which would suit for us mostly. Could you help ? Thanks in advance
Regards
Gábor
Hi Gabor, thanks so much for your comment and feedback. Since you like hiking, and it will be hot, I would definitely recommend you head straight for the mountains. Svaneti is the obvious choice because it’s not too far from Kutaisi. For something alternative, I would suggest Racha – it’s incredibly beautiful and more off the beaten path. Do be sure to spend a day in Kutaisi as well! I hope this helps!
Hi Emily, love your blog – so accessible and detailed!
We’re planning a 10-days trip in August (i know it’s not ideal weather and crowd-wise…), prefer starting in Batumi and finishing in Tbilisi. I assume we can do your itinerary the other-way around? how would you suggest to spend extra two days? we’re a family of 5, youngest is 18 – would also want to do few ‘touristy’ spots like water park /Prometheus cave etc. The eldest is 60, so not too much hiking, please. Also not big on wine, so can partly skip this part. Many thanks in advance!
Hi Jenny, thanks for your comment!
Yes, you can certainly flip the itinerary and do it the opposite way. In August I would suggest you spend more time in the mountains where it’s cooler – either in Racha, or you could add on Kazbegi and the Military Highway from Tbilisi. That road is a bit challenging but if it falls at the end of your trip, you should be very familiar with the roads/driving style by that stage.
Many thanks, Emily,
One more question please: is there a penalty/ extra charge for taking the car in Batumi and returning it in Tbilisi?
Yes Jenny, there is almost always a one-way fee. With Local Rent it’s about 50 USD.
Hi Emily,
Fantastic itinerary, really helpful. Appreciated.
I am hoping to visit Batumi, Georgia on 18th December 2021, rent a car, drive to Tbilisi and return to Batumi on 24th. I am hoping to break the trip both ways. Not knowing the winter conditions, I would like to ask if it is safe to drive?
Appreciate your thoughts and directions.
Kind regards
Kamal
Hi Kamal, it depends on your route. The main highway from Batumi to Tbilisi is open and perfectly safe in winter. Some other mountain roads (e.g. through Upper Adjara to Akhaltsikhe) will already be closed.
Wooow, this was super helpful, thank you so much!
My boyfriend and me will visit Georgia at the beginning of August for 17 days and are super excited already. We rented a car for the whole time and now, we are wondering if that was a smart idea. We want to do the same route as you did but wanna add a few places like Mestia and Juta. However, we now have the feeling that it is not the safest thing to do by car. Can you give us an advice on this? Would you recommend to go there by ourselves?
Hi Anli – it really depends how confident you are on the roads. The mountain roads are definitely less safe than the lower roads I took on this trip. Personally I wouldn’t feel comfortable driving to Mestia, but plenty of people do. Juta would be OK if the conditions are fine (just check with someone local before you set out). Racha is a nice alternative and the roads are pretty quiet by comparison in my experience.
I hope this helps!
Hi, loved your post. What route would you drive from Tblisi to Batumi if you had 2 nights to spend during the trip? It’s my first trip to Georgia. I would love to stop somewhere in Caucasus mountains if there are paved roads to interesting destination or go south to Vardzia caves.
Thanks!
Hi George,
You could do Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe via Javakheti, see Vardzia, then either drive through Upper Adjara (just note that the road is a bit rough so you need a car with high clearance) or go up through Borjomi/Kashuri then cut across to the coast that way via Kutaisi. Two nights would be a bit of a push to add the mountains in – but Upper Adjara/Lesser Caucasus is very beautiful and a great alternative!
I hope this helps!
Hey Emily,
I’m planning a road trip from Batumi to Tbilisi. I think I’m gonna do a long rest in Kutaisi on the half way but it seems like there are not a lot of available things on the way like rest areas or fast food restaurants on the way from Batumi to Kutaisi, even from Kutaisi to Tbilisi.
Would you know any other information about that? Maybe I’m not searching with the proper words.
Thanks
Hi Mark, it really depends on the road you take and how fast you want to get from A to B. All the places I visited on this road trip itinerary are between Batumi and Tbilisi but there are lots, lots more.
One of my favourite ‘pit stop’ restaurants is called Lia Deida, it’s in Argveta between Kutaisi and Tbilisi.
I hope this helps!
Dear Emily,
Thank you so much for this helpful itinerary. I would like to visit Georgia this summer and I will definetly get inspired by your roadtrip. However, I had a question. If I’m not wrong, you traveled last summer so during the pandamic. How did that affect your travel plans ? Were there any restrictions?
Thank you.
Sandra
Hi Sandra,
I did a couple of trips last summer. There were definitely restrictions to be wary of, and honestly things are completely different now to the way they were a year ago (there was no curfew for example) so you’d need to do thorough research and be flexible as things here are changing daily. If you have any specific questions I’d be happy to help where I can. Otherwise I recommend checking the ministry website for official info on curfews, closures, etc.
Thank you for you advice. I am going with my husband, are the roads that bad that you feel we should not attempt the drive? thanks.
Hi Maria, it’s entirely up to you – driving was not nearly as bad as I expected, but it was very quiet on the roads where I went this time. I recently drove through Kakheti which was much busier and more stressful. It depends on your route and confidence level. If you take extra care and are aware of the driving style, stay off mountain roads and out of cities, and read-up on conditions, then I’m sure you will have an enjoyable trip!
I love your detailed explanations for different itinenary. So much information its amazing. I would like to follow your 8 day road trip this summer. In addition I would like to add Kazbegi an extra 5 days to relax in the mountain area. How would you incorporate that in my driving trip? Thank you.
Hi Maria, so glad to hear you’ve found my road trip itinerary helpful!
Kazbegi is a more challenging drive via a more dangerous road. Personally I would not feel comfortable self-driving, but you might. I would hire a car and driver for the day via GoTrip. Whichever you decide, you almost certainly have to go through Tbilisi so I would add it at the very start or very end of your itinerary (presuming you’re flying into Tbilisi). I would suggest the latter – it would be a wonderful end to your trip!
I hope this helps!