Thinking of doing the Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity Church hike in Georgia? Don’t attempt the trek without reading these essential tips first! Updated for 2024, my new guide includes a map, a video, and comprehensive instructions for finding the correct trail.
The first time I visited Georgia back in 2017, a proper mountain hike was at the top of my Georgia bucket list. The only thing is, I don’t really like trekking.
Built in the 14th century, Gergeti Trinity Church in the Greater Caucasus mountains has become the poster child for Georgian tourism. So if there was one trek I was going to push myself to complete, it was the hike to Gergeti Church from the nearby town of Kazbegi (Stepantsminda).
Sure, you can take a taxi up to the church, but even the locals prefer to walk as a sort of pilgrimage to demonstrate their devotion. (As a side note, Soviet-era project to link Stepantsminda and Gergeti with a cable car was rejected by the community. You can still see the old station building in town today.)
I’m so glad I challenged myself because it turned out to be one of the highlights of our three-month trip. When we moved to Georgia, we decided to repeat the walk. Second time around it was even more enjoyable.
I have since done the walk up to the church numerous times.
Serious trekkers might not consider this a hike at all. It’s nothing compared to hiking to Gergeti Glacier or summiting Mount Kazbegi. In my opinion, it strikes a perfect balance between challenging and pleasant.
I would class this as an entry-level hike, which is exactly what most people are looking for if you have just a day or two in Kazbegi. You don’t need boots or any special hiking gear (I did the walk quite comfortably in sneakers once and again in winter boots). The incline is gentle, and it’s not too tiring.
There’s just one caveat: You must take the correct trail! When I first did the Kazbegi hike, this was a bit of a secret. Since I wrote this guide, I’ve helped hundreds of people do the trek the right way. But even in 2020, I still saw dozens of people following incorrect directions and taking the wrong path.
In this guide, I’m going to let you in on the secret and show you exactly how to find the right trailhead. You’ll also read everything you need to know to make the most of the trek and have an awesome day out in Kazbegi. Let’s go!
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Gergeti Trinity Church hike: The basics
- Distance: Approx. 7 kilometres (4.3 miles) return.
- Elevation: 2,170 metres.
- Time required: 60-75 minutes up; 60-90 minutes at the top for visiting the church & photos; 90 minutes down = 3.5-4 hours (at an absolute minimum).
- Fitness level required: Minimal (the path is lightly graded, but there is a steep uphill push right at the end).
- Important: The terrain is rough is patches, and the path is not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. If you have any problems with your knees or ankles, you might find coming back down quite a challenge.
Best time to do the Gergeti Trinity Church hike
I have done this walk in every season. My favourite time for the trek in spring (late May). I also enjoyed doing the walk in early March (late winter by Kazbegi standards).
When there is snow and ice on the mountain, it might not be possible to do the trek at all. And in peak summer, it is a little too warm for my liking.
The weather flips on a dime in the mountains, so be wary of fast-changing conditions. Oftentimes there will be thick fog, which limits visibility. Please exercise caution and use common sense. Don’t attempt the trek in winter unless you have the right gear.
Here is a very rough month-by-month look at conditions in Kazbegi:
- November-February: High chance of snow and ice; trail might be slippery; fog and often poor visibility; very beautiful if you do get a clear day!
- March-April: Less chance of snow; dry ground and brownish colours.
- May-June: Pleasant temperatures; beautiful green colours; heavy rain and wind is likely in May.
- July-August: Very warm weather; green landscape & wildflowers.
- September-October: Cooler temperatures; dry; brown & grey landscape.
Note that most of the photos in this guide were taken in early March. For a comparison, I’ve included some photos from early May towards the end of the page and one above, plus recent photos from summer. You can see the difference in the seasons quite clearly!
As for the best time of day, I think that it is best to do the hike in the early morning. Here are a few things to take into consideration:
The best views of the church are looking towards the east. That means the sun rises directly in front of you when you’re standing at the best viewpoints with a mountain backdrop (see marked points on the map below). It takes a little longer for the sun to emerge over the highest peaks, so you can still get nice photos in the early morning, especially in summer. But as you will see from my spring photos below, by mid-morning the light is no good as the sun is directly above the church.
By 10am, the area is very crowded. This makes it more challenging to take photos. Just getting inside the church can be difficult as there are people swarming everywhere. So while the light is more favourable in the afternoon, the downside is the crowds. Also there is a tendency for the weather to turn in the afternoon, so you could miss out on photos or get stuck in the rain unexpectedly.
By contrast, you will find the trail and church are both virtually deserted in the early morning. And the path is mostly shaded by the mountains before midday.
Remember that the church gates officially open at 9am and close at 5pm.
You could visit for sunset, but getting back down to the town after dark would be a challenge. I definitely do not recommend hiking after dark.
What to wear and what to bring with you
This list applies to warmer months only. If you’re attempting the trek in winter (which I don’t necessarily recommend), you’ll need to make sure you have proper gear, especially waterproof shoes.
- For this trek, you’ll need a lightweight day pack. Here are my favourites.
- As mentioned, you can do this walk quite comfortably in good-quality sneakers. In spring, I wore my Nike Flyknits, and Ross wore his Merrell Men’s Bare Access runners. In winter when there was still patches of ice around, I wore leather Doc Martin boots and Ross wore his Teva waterproof shoes.
- If you’re expecting weather, bring a wind-proof jacket and a waterproof cover for your backpack.
- One important thing to note is that men will not be allowed into Gergeti Trinity Church wearing shorts. Convertible pants are ideal for summer trekking (these ones are breathable and rated UV 50). Otherwise, you can borrow an apron skirt before you go inside.
- Women need to be wearing a long skirt and must also cover their hair to enter the church. You can use an apron skirt, but I recommend carrying your own lightweight scarf for hygiene reasons.
- Bring a reusable water bottle and plenty of drinking water. You can fill your bottle up outside the church or in the stream on the way up.
- Reusable Tupperwear will come in handy for carrying snacks (if you’re staying at a guesthouse, your host will undoubtedly outfit you with breakfast leftovers for the trek!). These collapsible containers are great for travel. There is no food shop at the top so snacks are a must.
More packing ideas: What to wear in Georgia, and everything you should pack for a trip to the Caucasus.
Do you own a drone? There are signs at the church indicating that flying drones is not permitted. Drones can be loud and disruptive, and this is an active church – so yes, those are the rules! Regular photography is permitted outside of course, but it is not permitted to use a camera inside the church.
Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity Church hike: How to do the trek (and actually enjoy it)
This part of Georgia is absolutely stunning, and you can only get a true appreciation for the scale of the Caucasus Mountains if you’re travelling on foot.
If you’re into hiking, be sure to check out the Juta Valley trek in the ‘Georgian Dolomites’, which can easily be accessed in a day from Kazbegi.
The path less travelled…
Everyone concurs that this hike is a must-do in Kazbegi. But not everyone agrees on which path to take from Stepantsminda to Gergeti Trinity Church.
When you first approach the base of the mountain to ascend to the church, you’ll notice there are three or four different paths cut into the grass. Choose the wrong one, and you could be setting off on the hike from hell! Choose the right path, and you’ll have an awesome day, guaranteed.
One or two of these paths shoot straight up the mountain at an impossibly steep angle. It’s pretty easy to identify – and avoid – those.
On my most recent visit, I still encountered people telling visitors to walk along the road or via the forest path on the right. But this is not the best way to go either (I’ve tried it). It’s still very steep, and you’ll end up crisscrossing the road constantly, having to negotiate 4WDs and SUVs. No thank you.
Instead, there is a far superior path that follows a stream located on the left-side of the mountain. There are a few major advantages to taking this route:
- It’s very lightly graded, so you’ll have more energy once you get to the top.
- The terrain is much better – fewer loose rocks and rubble.
- The path follows a pretty stream and takes you through fields and past a few stone towers. There are some good photo opportunities along the way.
- You probably won’t see another person on the trail (we only encountered a few grazing cattle).
- You approach the church from the south – a completely different aspect to the other paths. You get a much nicer view of the church, with green hills in the foreground and Mount Kazbegi as a backdrop.
Convinced? Here’s how to find the correct trail.
How to find the correct Gergeti Trinity trail
1. If you’re staying on the east side of the river, you’ll first need to cross the bridge. Take a left to walk up the hill via Stepantsminda-Sameba Street (Gergeti Street), past Cafe Bar and Panorama Restaurant. Continue towards Red Stone Guest House. Remember this is a journey in itself and it takes a good 20-30 minutes to reach the trailhead, so plan accordingly.
2. Walk past Red Stone Guest House towards Cafe Gergeti. As you approach the cafe, you’ll see a small water spring built into a stone basin on your right. Do not take the road on the right – this is where most people seem to go wrong. Instead, continue straight towards the cafe.
3. On the right-hand side of the cafe building you’ll see a boom gate. Duck under or around it and walk to the back of the cafe car park.
4. When you reach the back of the cafe, you’ll see two trails open up in a fork shape. The one on the right is steeper and looks more official – but this isn’t the one you want. Instead, take the trail on your left, near the stream.
In recent months, someone has placed a cute trail marker stone at this point with a smiley face and two arrows pointing to the different trails.
The correct path starts by winding around a stone tower (which you can see from the car park, pictured below) and follows the stream all the way to the church. As you continue along the path, always keep the stream on your left.
5. Once you’re on the correct trail, it’s just a matter of following the stream.
In some sections, the trail breaks off into higher and lower paths. Take whichever one you like, and note that some end up as dead ends (it’s never very far if you have to double back, though). Just remember to keep the stream on your left and the stone tower on your right and you can’t really go wrong.
The path arcs around the base of the mountain, so you eventually approach the church from the south.
6. After about 45 minutes of walking, you’ll see the bottom of Gergeti Trinity Church appear directly above you. This is your cue to start heading up.
There is a well-worn track to the top, or you can choose your own adventure and clamber up the hillside at any point. Continue as far along as you like then pick a spot between the boulders and make your final ascent.
7. When you reach the top, you’ll come to an open meadow with breathtaking views of the church on your right-hand side. Take a moment to pause here and soak up the view.
From here, the easiest way to approach the church is by walking up to the road and if it’s not too busy, following the road shoulder. If you left town early, there won’t be much traffic around yet.
Visiting Gergeti Trinity Church
Note: The official opening hours for the church are 9am-5pm daily. Gates to the churchyard might be locked outside of these hours, but you can still roam around the area and access most of the viewpoints.
You made it to the top! Your reward is getting to visit Gergeti Trinity Church.
I don’t think I’m alone when I say the journey is more spectacular than the destination in this instance. But you should still set aside 1-1.5 hours for visiting the church and walking around the perimeter to take in the views of Kazbegi town, the valley and mountains.
The first structure you come to upon entering through the church gate is a stone portico. Here, you can find a basket of blue wrap-around apron skirts.
If you’re wearing shorts, make sure you don one before you go inside – knees and shoulders should be covered when visiting Orthodox churches (for both men and women). Women will also need to cover their hair using either a skirt or a scarf from home.
Inside the church, you will find a number of beautiful framed icons lit by single candles. It’s very dim, even as Orthodox churches go. Note that there is no photography or video allowed inside.
The church yard was recently refurbished and is now fully paved. Walk around the perimeter to soak up the beautiful views of the mountains and Kazbegi below.
There are low barricades where you can stand and take photos, but some areas have higher walls and are cordoned off for safety.
There are free public toilets, and a small shop that sells votive candles. In summer, there might be a snack van parked at the top – but there are no shops selling food or drinks. You can refill your water bottle at one of the mountain springs near the entrance.
Before you go, visit at least one of the viewpoints described below for outstanding views (and photos) of the church.
Where to get the best views of Gergeti Trinity Church
There are several other viewpoints in the area where you can get nice photos of the church. Both are beyond the carpark, so you might miss them if you’re walking up (I completely overlooked them the first few times I visited).
I have marked both spots out on my map below. The first (marked ‘First Viewpoint’) offers you an iconic view of the church with its mountain backdrop.
There is a shrine in the foreground that you can position to block out the bevy of parked cars and the dirt road.
The second (marked ‘Second Viewpoint’ on the map) is from the edge of the carpark itself. I am not as fond of this view, as it’s more challenging to get a photo without tons of cars and people in it.
Tip: Distant views of Gergeti Trinity Church looking minuscule against a backdrop of high mountains can be seen from all over town. My favourite viewpoints are Rooms Kazbegi and Ioane Natlismcemeli. See my Travel Guide to Kazbegi for more tips. For a list of hotels with the best views of the church, see my Kazbegi Accommodation Guide.
Continuing to Gergeti Glacier
The trail to Gergeti Glacier starts from behind the church. It’s a 20 kilometre round-trip and requires an additional 7-ish hours of uphill slog. This is a much more challenging route and only suitable for serious hikers with the right gear.
For this route, I highly recommend downloading Maps.Me so that you have real-time directions to follow. The trail can be found on the app and downloaded for offline use.
The way down: Hiking back to Kazbegi
To get back down to Kazbegi, you can either use the same path, take a shortcut, or follow the new stairs that were built in 2021.
The shorter route starts by follows the sign pictured above. The first part of the path is incredibly steep (this is why you don’t want to come up this way), and because of this, it actually takes longer to get back down than it does to get up.
When you first start walking down, you’ll come to this stone cross and a nice view of the church looking back up the mountain.
Continue downhill, and you’ll eventually come to the road. If there’s no traffic you can follow the snaking road all the way into Kazbegi or take shortcuts through the forest whenever they open up.
When you reach the bottom, follow the narrow streets in between the stone houses to get back to the main road. You should emerge close to Gergeti Cafe and the water spring on Gergeti Street.
In 2021, a new walking path was added. It start from the stairs behind the carpark and continues down through the forest. It is marked out with blue signs and easy to follow. Part of the path washed away in spring 2022, but it has since been repaired and is still navigable.
If you are looking for a place to eat breakfast or lunch after the hike, then I highly recommend Maisi. It is located in Gergeti village, a short walk from the hike end point.
Like many restaurants in Kazbegi, Maisi serves local specialty dishes including pies stuffed with wild mountain greens and herbs. Kharchoerbo – a sort of Georgian fondue made with cheese and ghee (pictured above) – is perhaps the perfect post-hike meal!
Gergeti Trinity Church hike map
Click here to open the interactive map in Google Maps. Click the star icon below the title to save a copy to your device for later.
Gergeti Trinity Church hike video
And here’s a short video of the trek! Watch it through for full directions.
Gergeti hike tips & FAQ
Can I do the Gergeti Trinity hike in winter?
Yes, but I would not attempt the trek in snow unless you have the right equipment. Please exercise common sense. If the trail looks icy and the mountain is covered in powder, you are better off taking a taxi (more info below).
When is the best time of day to do the trek?
I recommend doing the trek in the morning when the path is shaded. We started the trek at 7.30am in spring and found this to be good timing. Tour groups start arriving mid-morning and the area gets very busy around midday.
In winter, the sun will be directly behind the church by the time you get to the top, which makes photography a bit challenging. In summer, you should plan to leave earlier to avoid having the sun in the wrong position.
Do I need a map or a guide?
No, you don’t need a map or a guide for this route. There are some trail markings along the way. The route is fairly straight; it would be very difficult to get lost.
There are only a couple of turns in the path (see my video for instructions).
You can always buy a Georgian sim and use Maps.Me offline if you want some extra reassurance.
What is the terrain like?
Most of the trail is clear and compact, while some parts are loose rocks and shale. The path is about 40-80cm wide in most parts.
Towards the end, you’ll encounter large rocks that you need to scramble over. The very end of the hike is a steep ascent through an open meadow.
Safety & things to watch out for
The only thing to be wary of (apart from losing your footing) is dogs. In my experience, the dogs in Kazbegi are pretty meek and aren’t as aggressive towards humans as they are in other mountain areas. But they can be fiercely territorial.
As you walk through town towards the trail head (especially in the early morning), there’s a good chance that at least one pup will start following you. This becomes an issue when you cross through other dogs’ territory – pets and strays alike will come out of the woodwork, and things can get scrappy.
On our recent visit, we picked up one dog in town and she accompanied us the whole way up and back down. As you can see in the video below, she was great company! At the end of the trek, we took her to the supermarket and bought her a packet of sausages to say thanks.
Can I trek one-way?
If you want to do the trek one-way, I highly recommend walking up and taking a car back down. The approach is much more scenic.
There’s a good chance you’ll be able to join a group at the top and find a car to take you back down. The driver may end up charging you the same price (more info below).
Can I do the trek on a day trip from Tbilisi?
If you’re coming to Kazbegi on a day trip from Tbilisi, you might not have time to do the trek. Organised tours will take you to visit Gergeti Trinity in a Delica SUV. You can’t really break away from the group to walk.
The only way to squeeze the trek in is by doing the day trip independently (it’s a very full day, but it is possible). You should leave Tbilisi on the first marshrutka and head straight up to the church. I would only recommend doing this in summer when you have more daylight to play with. The last thing you want is to be stranded up at the church in the dark.
Other ways of getting to Gergeti Trinity Church from Kazbegi
While I highly recommend the hike, I understand that it’s not for everyone.
If you’re short on time or you don’t want to walk it, you can travel from Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity and back by Delica SUV taxi. Drivers wait around the bus stop and in front of Central Plaza Hotel (formerly called Hotel Stancia), or for efficiency and ease you can join a shared transfer with Mountain Freaks. Save your spot online in advance via Viator.
Expect to pay around 15-20 GEL per person or 60-80 GEL per car to go up and back, including around 30 minutes wait time at the top. You can pool together with other travellers to get a cheaper price.
If you want to hike one-way and take a car up or down, the price is the same as a return trip.
A few years ago, a new sealed road to the church opened, making it possible to get up in a regular sedan (much to the chagrin of local taxi drivers). Landslides occur regularly, but as of 2024 the asphalt road is open to all traffic.
The road is fully sealed and smooth with only a couple of rough patches. I last drove it in June 2024.
Planning a trip to the Caucasus? Check out my epic Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan itinerary.
How to get from Tbilisi to Kazbegi
Kazbegi (the starting point for the Gergeti Trinity church hike) lies roughly 150km north of Tbilisi via the magnificent Georgian Military Highway – which really is an attraction in itself.
You have the choice of travelling by marshrutka minivan (the cheapest option), private car booked through GoTrip (the most efficient option – perfect if you want to stop for lots of photos), or shared taxi (a good compromise between the two).
For full details and departure schedules, refer to my guide to travelling from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.
Organised day tours to Kazbegi from Tbilisi
If you’re short on time, you can visit Kazbegi and Gergeti Trinity as a day tour from Tbilisi. Although it might not be possible to do the hike, these tours include transport up to the church by SUV.
Tour to Ananuri, Truso Valley & Stepantsminda with Off-roading: Adventurous group tour with my favourite tour company, Friendly.ge. From $73 per person → Book here direct and use the code wanderlush at checkout to get 10% off or book here on Viator.
Tbilisi to Jvari Monastery, Ananuri, Gudauri, Gergeti Trinity Church with Gamarjoba Georgia: Budget-friendly group tour with transfers. From $49 per person → Book here on Viator.
Kazbegi Full Day Private Tour From Tbilisi: Private tour. From $90 per group → Book here on Viator.
Tip: When booking a Kazbegi day trip, remember to check if the price of a transfer Gergeti Trinity Church is included in the price. Tour buses cannot drive up, so sometimes a taxi is added on as an extra for around 15 GEL per person. Sedans can drive to Gergeti so if you’re travelling with GoTrip, you can ask your driver to take you all the way to the top.
Where to stay in Kazbegi
There are lots of accommodation options in Kazbegi, ranging from family owned guesthouses to trendy A-frame cabins.
TOP CHOICE OVERALL: Guest House Tamta (⭐ 9.9). A true gem of a guesthouse, this place is terrific value for money. Rooms are spacious and the shared kitchen is very handy – but the best thing about it is the mountain views, which are every bit as good as Rooms!
LUXURY HOTEL: Rooms Kazbegi (⭐ 8.9). For a truly memorable Georgian mountain experience, don’t look past Rooms Kazbegi. Housed in a converted sanatorium, this is one of the coolest boutique hotels in the whole country.
BOUTIQUE HOTEL: Intourist Kazbegi (⭐ 8.7). This new hotel has chic furnishings and a retro aesthetic, panoramic mountain views, and a great breakfast buffet.
MID-RANGE HOTEL: Graf Kazbegi (⭐ 9.6). This chalet-style house with new rooms in the centre of town is convenient to restaurants, bars and the bus station. A solid mid-range choice.
BUDGET GUESTHOUSE: Red Stone Guest House (⭐ 9.6). This family-run guesthouse is warm and spacious. An incredible home-cooked breakfast comes included, and it’s conveniently located close to the Gergeti Trinity trailhead.
More ideas for Kazbegi
- My complete Kazbegi travel guide, hints & tips for your visit
- How to get to Kazbegi from Tbilisi, your transport options
- How to travel back to Tbilisi from Kazbegi, the reverse route
- Where to eat & drink in Kazbegi, my favourite restaurants
- The best day trips from Kazbegi, for hikers & non-hikers alike
- Where to stay in Kazbegi, the best hotels, guesthouses & cabins
- Full guide to the Juta Valley hike, visiting the Georgian Dolomites
- Sno village, visiting the Giant Head sculptures
- Georgian Military road trip guide, where to stop along the way
- Skiing in Gudauri, my tips for Georgia’s premier winter resort
- Things to do in Gudauri, on & off the slopes
- Kobi-Gudauri cable car, why I think it’s a must-do in Kazbegi
Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity Church hike: Photos & additional info
Here are some of my favourite photos from the Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity Church trek (taken in May). You’ll find more tips for tackling the route in the captions.
Do you have any additional tips for the Kazbegi to Gergeti Trinity trek to share? Questions about the route? Let me know in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer.
Gergeti Trinity Church Hike: Save it for later
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Hi Emily!
Do you know how early there are taxis in town? I am planning to hike to Gergeti Glacier this weekend, so it would be neat if there was an early morning ride to snag to the church! Thank you!
Hi Andra, there were already a few drivers around when I caught a marshrutka at 6.30am this summer. You could also ask around at the bus station the night before and try to pre-organise a ride.
hi! Where can I park my car to start your recomended hike? many thanks!
Hi Patrik, there is plenty of street parking around the trailhead, just be careful not to park over anyone’s drive.
Thanks!
We followed your advice on the hike up to the church today. You’re spot on. We had a great day. Thanks for making it smooth going.
Wonderful to hear that! Thank you, Ken!
Greetings. Question: Can you tell me if it is legal and safe to walk from Dariali Monastery down to Stepantsminda town? My plan is to take a taxi up to Dariali Monastery, and then walk/hike back to Stepantsminda. I thank you for your attention and I look forward to hearing from you.
Hi! You definitely can’t walk on the Military Highway. A hiking path might exist, but I am not aware of it.
Hello, just thought I’d let you know that I did this hike today as a solo female traveller! I was alone for most of the hike apart from two other men hikers. One was someone who worked at the church so he went up the steep quick climbs, and anothwr was a regular hiker on vacation. An the beginning we walked together but when I kept taking the left paths as you recommended, he said that seemed like too long a path so he took the right ones. I wished him well and we parted ways. Later I could see him struggle a bit above me and slipping a few times. Was so glad I listened to you !!
At the last part where you scramble at the big rocks I got confused as there were no more paths, so I took a leap of faith and climbed upwards to the right.. then lo and behold there it was! Two white horses greeted me just as I pushed myself upwards and it was such a lovely view. I saw the other hiker finally in front at the meadow, but I felt bad for him as he missed that great great alternative view with the sun shining from this side.
Thanks once again for this guide – I took lots of videos and my friends all now want to come.
Awesome, Jesslyn! So glad you stuck to the path and enjoyed the hike. Thank you for the thoughtful comment! Enjoy the rest of your time in Kazbegi and Georgia.
Thank you for all these tips. They were most helpful but not just for the hike – all round it was incredibly detailed and helpful! Thank you!
Wonderful to hear that – thank you so much for your comment!
You literally made my Georgia trip easier with all the detailed articles. A personal thanks to you!
Thank you Asif!
Thank you for the detailed instructions! We took the hike yesterday with 2 kids (4&9) and it was wonderful! I think we ended up on the steeper track on the way up, because we took the right track at the second fork. It was still doable! However, we really wanted to find your described path, so we went all the way down to the stream on the way back and it was a beautiful walk! Yes, it was sunny (mid-August), but with sun-screen and hats, we were totally fine! The water was fresh and we were the only once down there! Please note, there was no snack van on the top, so it was good we brought some. But we could fill our bottles with fresh water and it seems like there is some construction going on. Maybe they are building a little shop or something.
Also there are some Bolt-Taxis available in the Kazbegi area as well now. However prices seem to be pretty high. We didn’t try them though.
Thanks again!!
Thanks Martina, I’m glad you enjoyed the walk! Yes sadly I haven’t seen the little snack van in years. I keep the photo here because it’s so cute. Happy travels!
Hi Emily – thank you so much for all the research and guides on your blog! It is my bible while planning a 2 week trip to Georgia from Denmark this summer. Just one question relating to Kazbegi – do you know if there are any places to store luggage in town, while doing the hike? Or is this easiest to set up with airbnb-host etc?
Hi Lena, thanks so much! You can store bags at the Mountain Freaks office in the centre of town. Enjoy!
Hi do you think it is worth doing this hike if the forecast is rainy all day? Would be a shame to miss it but worried the rain will dampen it and might not get good views
I’m not sure Molly – the path is very exposed with no shelter, and it could be very foggy at the top. Sorry to hear you’ve had bad weather! I am heading to Kazbegi in a couple of days and I’m afraid I will be facing the same conundrum!
Hi Emily- I love your blog so much- very detailed and has inspired me to travel to Georgia! Just wondering if you think the hike is safe to do as a solo female traveller? Thankyou!
Thank you Molly! Yes absolutely – it’s really a very short hike and there will no doubt be plenty of others around, assuming you’re travelling in spring/summer/autumn.
Hello! your blogs have been really helpful in planning our trip to Georgia. I wanted to ask if we can start the hike early morning at 6 o clock and reach early. Will the church be open? We are planning to go in mid- April. Thank you.
Thanks Priyanka! I don’t think the church will be open that early, no. Usually churches open around 9am. It’s not absolutely essential to go inside the church though. The view and the grounds are very beautiful. Enjoy!
Hi, Emily! Thank you a lot for such a detailed route. I was wondering if it’s possible to climb in the opposite direction from Gergeti Trinity Church – I mean the way to Ioane Natlismcemeli. There are some reviews on Google Maps and the view in the photos is breathtaking as well. Do you have any advice about going there? Thanks!
Hi Ksenia, yes you certainly can! You can either follow the road, or there is a path that goes pretty much straight up from behind Rooms Hotel.
for those who are planning to visit in late October and having doubts about the hall visit or taking the small hike up to the Church (because of the weather), DO NOT HESITATE.
Pick a sunny day and off you go.
I was there for one night in the 26th of October 2022, I did the hike and visited multiple places along the Georgian Military highway from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.
It was worth it, breathtaking views and the weather (particularly in a sunny day) was perfect.
Thanks for the tip, Moh! Great to hear you enjoyed the hike!
It should be clear here that these are taxi services and there are no shared taxis, we were disappointed to find this out as you stated it was about 15-20 gel per person. The sealed road is also still closed (Oct 22), it seems they are reconstructing sections of it.
Hi Frank – I think you misunderstood. They are all shared taxis, you just need to find people to share with! If not, you pay for all the seats which is standard in Georgia. A good way to do this is through your guesthouse. Much tricker in October unfortunately when there’s not as many tourists about.
These directions were super-helpful! I’m in Kazbegi for a couple days and wandered over to the trailhead today from Rooms, and it was all very easy to find. I must admit though, going across town and up to the trailhead made me re-think my plan to do the full hike tomorrow (although I was going way later than I would be and was wearing all the wrong clothes) – I think I’ll be taking a car tomorrow after all, especially solo and with rain in the forecast 🙂 All the same, even the walk up to the start provided some inspired views and I still climbed 59 floors according to my Fitbit – not too shabby for what was meant to be a relaxed day in town! Even had some Kazbegi Good Food khinkali for my troubles. Thanks, Emily!!
Awesome to hear that Vickie! I agree, the walk across the valley to the start of the hike is almost like a hike itself!! I hope the weather holds out for you. Enjoy the rest of your time in Kazbegi and Georgia!
We just completed this hike and much appreciated the directions! For those with cell service, typing “Gregeti Cafe” into google maps is a great way to find the right trail entrance. We took the left at the first fork which was very straightforward. When we came upon a second fork we tried to go left again, came upon a bunch of rocks and then back-tracked and went right. I think this is where we went wrong because although the trail was very easy to follow, it was quite steep and we did not approach the church from the road. For those who want the flatter path, it might require staying left at both forks. Anyway, beautiful hike and glad we did it. Thank you for taking the time to write this out so the rest of us can enjoy!
Thank you Amy for sharing your trail notes! Very helpful. I hope you had a wonderful time in Kazbegi.
I cannot thank you more for this amazing route. I called it hedonistic – because I totally enjoyed it , soaking my feet and hands in the spring along the route and looking at eagles – my only companions on it. And I did find the shade under the tree and the big stone along the spring. At the same time the upper route looked so dusty, steep and overheated, and there were dozens of people there , including marathon runners , all bumping one into another. and they did not look hedonistic at all 🙂
Hehe, thanks Alexandra for your thoughts, I’m really glad you enjoyed the hike!
We just did the „hike“ today and I am rather surprised about some of the comments saying it was difficult or exhausting as we were rather disappointed about it being so easy to get up there. Funny how the experience can be so different from one person to another. Also when you start your hike from the parking lot behind „café gergeti“, it is at max. a 2hrs walk up and down incl. a 30min rest at the top to visit the church. not sure what you can do there for 1.5hrs.
Thanks Patrick for sharing your perspective on the hike. There is another viewpoint you can walk to that takes a bit of time, but for sure you can make it a quick trip! Hope you enjoyed Kazbegi!
Hi! Thanks so much for all your wonderful blogs! They’ve been super valuable in planning our Georgian adventures. I love your clear, friendly writing style and ability to put a positive spin on literally everything! We do have a tiny bit of input on the Gergeti hike:
– I would not call this an entry level hike, haha! I’m a lifelong, 4 days a week, long-distance hiker, and I found the terrain on the suggested path (once we finally found it) to be really QUITE difficult. My very fit 20 year old daughter did as well. The precarious footing, steep gradient, and VERY exposed nature of the path would qualify it as moderate-difficult in comparing it to hikes all over the US and UK.
– The directions to the trail say to cross the bridge in Kazbegi and then go up Kazbegi Street. In reality, once you cross the bridge the two options are to turn right and continue on the military highway, or go straight up the hill on Gergeti Street. There are no signs at all at first, but after that the street is very well marked–as Gergeti Street. You can imagine how how confusing this was for us.
– We couldn’t find any signs for Red Stone Guest House, so weren’t able to head in that direction. Apparently we eventually passed it without knowing?
But we did finally find the path you recommend and we eventually made it to the top without falling off the cliff, yay! It was very beautiful and impressive and we’re glad we did it. (Although we were too terrified to try to walk back down the mountain so found a van to take all four of us down to the village for 70 lari, haha). Overall it was a worthwhile experience and we appreciated your guidance. Thanks!
Hi Melissa, thanks for your notes – glad you enjoyed the hike!
Perhaps the trail was damaged in the recent storms because all the times I’ve done it, it wasn’t precarious at all. Are you sure you followed the trail I suggested? It’s not steep either, except for the final push at the end. Perhaps you were on the trail that goes straight up the mountain?
I have added a note about making a left onto Gergeti Street. Red Stone is marked on Google Maps – they normally have a sign on the road, but maybe they took it down.
Hi Emily, thank you so much for this post and this whole site, it has been so helpful to me in planning my trip!! The pictures of your hike look stunning. I’m thinking of doing this hike when I’ll be Kazbegi later this month and am really looking forward to it. I did want to ask you about one thing regarding safety: I am a little worried about what you were saying regarding the dogs being territorial (and in your other posts regarding the shepherd dogs), as I’m not great with dogs/don’t have a lot of experience with them. Do you have any particular safety tips with respect to the dogs, other than generally exercising caution?
Thank you so much and I’m really looking forward to my trip!
Hi Elisa, great to hear that! Dogs are not a huge problem in Kazbegi as its quite urban (at least for this hike), but if you’re going further afield or to a remote area then it’s definitely something to be aware of. Keep an eye out for animals and if you see a flock of sheep or cows, look for dogs and give them a wide berth. If you encounter a dog, the best advice I’ve heard is to not turn your back on the dog, yell out for a shepherd (they are usually nearby) and will call the dog off. I hope this helps!
Hey Emily. Thanks so much for this site. It’s been a great help to us on our visit to Georgia. I must admit though, that this hike wasn’t quite what we expected from your description. Maybe you’re much fitter than we are (very probable), but when we read that the trail followed along a stream, we pictured a trail near a stream, with some trees we could relax under. Not so!
You do recommend that folks leave early, “when the trail is shaded,” but people should know that there are NO trees along the route. Not even a bush or a rock one can shade under. This means that once the sun rises above the mountains in the east, you will be in 100% sun 100% of the way. Not fun. And the trail is almost always from 100 to 300 feet above the stream, so it’s not like you can just take a few steps over and splash your face!
Also, I don’t really understand why you think the views are better going up than coming down, as you don’t see Mt. Kazbegi til you’re 90% of the way up, and until then, it’s just grassy hills to the west. All the views are behind, looking back toward the valley to the east. Having hiked up and back, I would strongly recommend taking a car up and walking back down, which it seems the vast majority of people do. And if you’re sensitive to the sun (redhead here), DO NOT do this hike in mid-summer, unless you leave very early in the morning.
Also, your favorite restaurant in town is closed, unfortunately. (Good Food? Good Eats?)
Thanks again for putting so much great info out there for free. Aside from my current sunburn, it’s led to only good things.
Hi Christopher,
Thanks for your comment, and sorry to hear you didn’t enjoy the hike! I get more positive feedback about this guide than almost any other, so I’m sorry to hear you had a different experience.
I don’t think I said anywhere that there are trees… Did you watch my video? It shows the terrain pretty well I think. The fact that there is no shade is why I recommend going early. The view from the top is obviously the highlight – I simply meant that walking back down, you’re only looking down the valley. For me, the view of the church and mountains on approach, and particularly as you come over the last hill and detour to the viewpoint, is the highlight. I think the whole area is beautiful, including the stream and the ruined tower.
The vast majority of people actually do the car transfer both ways and don’t walk at all. If you get a car up, you still have to pay the full fare. I recommend this hike as an alternative way to explore the area and enjoy the scenery.
Kazbegi Good Food was temporarily closed for a couple of days, but I see that it’s open again now. Hope you still get a chance to eat there!
Enjoy the rest of your time in Georgia.
I cannot thank you for enough for this thorough guide! It helped me and my boyfriend so much when we did the hike today.
Kind regards,
Ellinor, Sweden
So glad to hear that, Ellinor! Thank you for taking the time to let me know. I hope you are having an amazing time in Kazbegi!
Hi Emily, thanks so much for your great description of the trail! It was really beautiful and very doable, even with my 5-year old son (a few snack breaks helped also ;).
Very happy to hear that Ellie! Thanks so much for your comment!
Hi Emily,
I m leaving for Kazbegi in the morning from Tbilisi and staying overnight at a guest house there.Is it possible to do the hike to church and back starting @2 pm? I will be alone and i m a bit reluctant since it is winter!
Hi! I think it’s possible but you would be cutting it close since the sun sets so early – I would recommend getting a car one-way.
Hi Emily. I am just back from a 4 day trip to Georgia and I found your articles really helpful – from the trek to Gergeti trinity to selecting a bath house in Tbilisi. I followed your guide for the trek and it is perfectly detailed.
Thank you for doing what you are doing and keep going. Cheers.
Hi Abhijeeth – thank you so much for the comment, I am really so happy to hear that the site was helpful. I’m glad you got to do the trek, it’s still one of my favourite things to do in Georgia!
Thank you for the encouragement and kind words. Hope to see you back here some time! Take care.
Hi Emily ! My husband and I are halfway through our 2 week road trip in Georgia and we could not have done it without your blog (Lonely Planet sucks !) ! We have just come back from the hike to Gegerti Trinity Church using your detailed instructions and it was fantastic!
Hi Aude,
Thanks so much for the comment, I’m so glad you’re finding the site helpful! My first posts on Georgia were written out of frustration with outdated guidebook info.
I hope Kazbegi turned on the weather for you and you enjoyed the hike! Enjoy the rest of your time in Georgia and thank you again.
Hi Emily, Love your detailed blogs!
We intend to do this trek, but some of the experiences shared here are making me nervous 🙁 Would you happen to have any guide recommendations for this hike? Group hikes preferably. We plan to stay in Kazbegi and go for the Gergeti trinity hike from Kazbegi.
Thanks in advance and keep up your amazing work!
Hi Mithila, a guide is really not necessary – the walk is very short and you can’t go wrong if you start on the right track. You may be able to request someone to accompany you from your guesthouse, but there is no guide service to the best of my knowledge.
Enjoy!
Will there be snow cap mountains in June? Will be very nice to see the mountains with snow on it.
The higher mountains should have snow on them year-round. June is a nice time to visit – the wildflowers will still be out and it shouldn’t be too hot. Enjoy!
Hi,
I wanted to say a big thank you – we followed your instructions for the gentle route back in August (on a very hot day) and it was a lifesaver! Going up by the stream was so much nicer and it was divine to soak hot feet on the way back down.
Note for other travellers – the mini vans don’t always exist for the return, the last 2 didn’t show so we were forced to pay way more for a private taxi, luckily there were lots of other people stranded too but it still cost way more per head, they knew we had no choice. Our guy nearly caused a riot by under-cutting the competition!
Hi Jen!
So glad to hear you found the right trail and enjoyed the walk. That’s really helpful to know about the vans, thank you! I hope it was an anomaly and not a regular thing – I can imagine that was quite frustrating!
Thanks again for reading and for sharing your experience.
Safe travels!
Thank you for this post Emily. We are heading back to Georgia (and beyond) in the spring and will be certainly spending some time in Kazbegi.
Apropos of wandering through Georgia, we have discovered on YouTube the wonderful Trio Mandili, three incredible young polyphonic singers with great songs in beautiful Georgian rural settings.
https://youtu.be/UNsTDa_XdD4
That’s exciting! Look forward to your photos. Thanks for the link! I’ll have to check them out.
The route for the church is not mentioned in full here. There is no clarity of path after reaching the vertical stone. Information is very half baked. Additionally, pls add a disclaimer on all information being true ONLY in the summer. Also, GO WITH A GUIDE. Don’t risk going by yourselves. We did this yesterday and got caught in a snow blizzard and had to climb up steep snowy mountains with no gear. It was a terrifying experience & we are grateful we made it out okay.
Hi Palakshee,
I’m so sorry you had a bad experience! I did the trek in autumn myself and my partner’s parents did it in spring. The path should still be open in winter, although it’s going to be more difficult to distinguish under snowfall. I think if you encountered ‘vertical stone’, you probably took the wrong path from the outset. I’ve tried to be as clear with my instructions, photos and map as possible.
Most people do the walk without a guide. I would caution against attempting any climb in winter without proper gear. I will add a note about taking extra care in the winter months.
Thanks for your feedback and again, I’m sincerely sorry you didn’t enjoy the hike! I hope you still enjoyed your time in Kazbegi, despite the rough weather.
Emily, we followed your exact recommendations and despite even finding the left pathway difficult, I can’t imagine just how treacherous the other pathways are! Thank you for this. Surprisingly, we bumped into a fair few people going up and down this path. Perhaps your blog post catching on with everyone visiting Kazbegi! 🙂
Hi Kan! I’m really happy to hear that you found this helpful. I guess the secret is out!!
Thank you SO much for the easier path info. I made it up and back, but it took me all day – from 1030-630. I found going down pretty hard, because I was already so tired and scared of falling. Could not have done the harder path.
Our mashrutka on the way back charged us 15lari, it was only 10 going up. We bought some honey at the place they stop, and it is delicious – very dark brown honey.
I love Tbilisi, we are here for a month and I am ready to stay a year.
Thanks for the update, DebbieAnn. Glad you liked the hike!
Enjoy Tbilisi! I think a lot of us feel that way when we first arrive 🙂
Thanks for the great tips! We did this hike today and followed your suggested route (taking the same path down as we did up) and it went really well! We got some great photos and it was totally doable (yet challenging) even while carrying our toddler on my back. I’d definitely recommend this hike (and Kazbegi in general) to others. We followed it up with going to the Elias monastery above the Rooms Hotel on the other side of town and unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate to get the photos we hoped for but we’re hoping for another chance tomorrow before we leave!
Great to hear that, Lauren! Thanks for letting me know 🙂
Hi Emily,
Great post!
We’ll be visiting on a day trip from Tbilisi so we don’t have time to do the hike. I love your picture of the church from afar with snowcapped mountains in the background. Is it possible to get that photo from the road?
Hi Miriam,
Those views are all from the top. Are you driving up? You should be able to get a nice photo if you cross the carpark.
Enjoy!
Perfect, thanks Emily! Yes’ we’ll be driving up if the weather permits.
I’ve loved reading through your Georgia posts by the way. Especially the food posts – you’ve included some really great tips!
Thanks Miriam! I hope you get the views and photos you’re looking for. It’s a spectacular location.
Hi Emily,
Want to thank you for your detailed description of the hiking route. We did the hike in September following this blog and it was amazing:)!!
For some pictures (and a lot of Dutch text), see https://wouterkoene.com/2018/12/31/2-weken-zelf-rondreizen-in-georgie-deel-4-kazbegi-in-de-kaukasus/
Thanks again!
Wouter
Wouter! Thank you SO MUCH for dropping back and leaving a comment!
I’m so glad to hear you found my post helpful. Wow—your photos are stunning! I’d love to go back and see the landscape in September.
So glad to hear you enjoyed Georgia and the hike!
Hi Emily, thank you getting back. I am going to try and do this trek on the basis if your suggestions! Wish me luck! 🙂
Ps: I think I hit gold by finding your blog. Your posts are incredible!
Hi Emily we are going to Kazbegi for a day next week when we get to Georgia. We plan to drive to Kazbegi from Tbilisi and wanted to visit the Church that day. Is trekking in the afternoon a possibility? Dont want to leave the trek for the next day when we have to head back to Tbilisi. Thanks
Hi Chaitali! It’s definitely possible to trek in the afternoon if you get an early start from Tbilisi. If I were you, I’d just double check what time sunset is—you wouldn’t want to be navigating the climb down in the dark.
Have a wonderful time!
My only worry is the weather though… it’s raining all through this week. 🙁 might have to cancel if it keeps raining.
Thanks for the kind words! That’s no good to hear about the weather! I hope you get a break. It was so foggy and miserable the day we arrived—we were so lucky that it fined up for the day of the trek.
Best of luck!
Thanks! I am coming as well in a week and I won´t forget your tips 😀
Brilliant! I hope they help! Enjoy!
Thanks for the tips, this is very helpful info! I’m heading here at the end of the month and I will definitely keep my eyes peeled for that leftmost path. Do you have any cheap hostel recommendations for this area, and did you walk all the way from your lodging up to the church or get a ride closer before trekking up?
Thanks, Vera! We stayed close to the trail head, so we walked from our accommodation. Our guesthouse was called Red Stone Guest House—I highly recommend it.
Enjoy your trip!
Hi, thank you for this detailed guide. I’m going to Georgia in May 2018. I’m considering if it is possible to do the trek that you did on a one day trip from Tbilisi. Do you think that there would be enough time? 🙂
Hi Mia! Glad to hear that! Georgia is always a good idea 🙂
How do you plan to travel to Kazbegi? If you’re hiring a car/driver or you’re taking a taxi for at least one leg of the trip, you could probably do it. Chances are you’re probably a faster walker than me, but you still need a good few hours to get up and back. I’m not sure what time the last marshrutka leaves for Tbilisi, but you could try checking with your accommodation in Tbilisi.
Good luck!
Hi Mia. Im from Georgia and i know much ways to enjoy one day trip in kazbegi. U can choose kazbegi tour from tourism companies they have mini buses nd they make nice tours over Georgia. One day is enough to visit Holy trinity church. But i also propose u to go to Juta ( also in kazbegi)
Thanks for the info, Teona!
Nice to read all of this. I still have to wait some more months to go there but I am really looking forward to it. But unfortunately I have to go in July – my wife is a teacher 🙁
Hopefully we will find the track of the left 🙂
July will be warm, but I’m sure it’ll be lovely. Good luck and enjoy Georgia!
Hey, I was there a month ago. I was a victim of the deadly path, he steep trail you mentioned. lol. It was literally breathtaking, totally worth it. You might want to read my write up.
Thanks Iris, I will! Glad you loved it despite the agony 🙂
It’s so much greener than when we did it! I’m going to have to go back in Spring I think 🙂
The seasons seem to make a big difference! It was a little overcast in May, but worth the occasional rainy day for the beautiful green landscape. I’d love to see Kazbegi in winter, too!
Thank you for the brilliant guide to the correct trail. We did it yesterday and really loved it. We were the only ones taking this route!
Hi Debi! Great to hear that! We had the trail to ourselves this time 2 years ago too – it was wonderful. I’ve just booked tickets back to Tbilisi and will be doing the walk again, this time in summer.
Hope you’re enjoying your time in Georgia! Thanks for taking the time to comment!