21 Things to Know Before You Visit Kazbegi, Georgia’s Easiest Mountain Getaway

A must-read for anyone who’s planning to visit Kazbegi. This comprehensive travel guide to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) is up to date and accurate for the 2026 travel season. It includes the best things to do in Kazbegi, top restaurants and accommodations, a 3-day Kazbegi itinerary and map, plus essential tips to help you plan your trip.

I’ll never forget the first time I rolled into Kazbegi in a clunky marshrutka van. My jaw had been on the floor for the entire drive up from Tbilisi.

Just when I thought the scenery couldn’t get any more picture-perfect on that crisp May day, Mount Kazbegi – or ‘The Bride’ as she’s sometimes called – cast off her veil of fog, and… Wow.

Aerial view of Gergeti Trinity Church against a backdrop of mountains - a must-see when you visit Kazbegi, Georgia.
Views like this are why you visit Kazbegi!

The Georgian Military Highway, Georgia’s most spectacular road. Gergeti Trinity Church, the country’s most iconic place of worship. The Greater Caucasus, Europe’s most underrated mountain range. And the snow-capped crest of Georgia’s third-highest peak. These are the things that make Kazbegi a one-of-a-kind destination.

I’m no mountain climber, but the easy hike up to Gergeti is easily one of my top 5 experiences in the Caucasus and reason enough to visit Kazbegi. Beyond the trekking opportunities, this is a good place to unwind, drink in mountain views, fresh air, and indulge in hearty mountain cuisine.

And the best thing? Kazbegi is the closest mountainous area to Tbilisi, relatively fast and easy to reach in under 4 hours by road. If you’re planning a quick Georgia itinerary that starts in the capital, a side trip to Kazbegi is a must-do. If you’re designing a longer journey around the region, Kazbegi is a welcome addition.

I’ve been back to Kazbegi countless times since my first visit. Living in Georgia, I have had a chance to see it in every season. My Mega Kazbegi Travel Guide brings together all my knowledge about the area to answer commonly asked questions and offer you insider travel tips.

I’ll show you the best things to do in Kazbegi and the surrounding area, where to sleep and eat, and offer my recommended 3-day Kazbegi itinerary with a map you can save for later.

Note: This guide focuses on the town of Kazbegi plus the surrounding Kazbegi Municipality – that is the mountainous zone north of Jvari Pass to the Russian border, west to Truso Valley and east to Sno Valley. It does not include places further south along the Georgian Military Highway such as Ananuri or Gudauri. For detailed information about where to stop on the way to Kazbegi from Tbilisi, refer to my Guide to the Georgian Military Highway.


Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.


Kazbegi Travel Guide contents – 21 things to know before you go


Where is Kazbegi?

Kazbegi is a small municipality of less than 5,000 people. It is located in the far northeast of the country of Georgia, around 12 kilometres shy of the Russian border and almost directly due north of the capital city, Tbilisi.

It lies within the historic Khevi province, which is now part of Mtskheta-Mtianeti Region.

The distance from Tbilisi to Kazbegi is 155 kilometres or 96 miles.

Tbilisi and Kazbegi are linked by a single road, with the famous Georgian Military Highway bridging the most scenic, high-altitude stretch. On average it takes 3-4 hours to travel between Tbilisi and Kazbegi by road depending on the vehicle you take, traffic and weather conditions.

Kazbegi Georgia, view of Gergeti Trinity mountain church near Tbilisi.
The one and only Gergeti Trinity Church in Kazbegi.

Is it Stepantsminda or Kazbegi?

This certainly confused me on my first visit to Georgia! The names ‘Stepantsminda’ and ‘Kazbegi’ seem to be used interchangeably. The official name of the municipality is Stepantsminda, and this is how you’ll see it referred to on maps. In practice, however, most people refer to the townlet (and the surrounding area) as Kazbegi.

The original name, Stepantsminda, means ‘Saint Stephan’ and comes from the Orthodox monk who constructed a hermitage at this location in medieval times. When Georgia was part of Imperialist Russia, the settlement was given its new moniker as a tribute to the local lawmaker. In 1925, the Soviets officially changed the name to Kazbegi.

Alexander Kazbegi statue in the centre of Stepantsminda, Georgia.
Statue of Alexander Kazbegi in Kazbegi… Or Stepantsminda.

In 2006, the name was reverted back to Stepantsminda. Despite the Soviet overtones, many people continued referring to the area as Kazbegi. For simplicity’s sake, I use the same name most Georgians do.

The mountain peak – a 5,047-metre-tall dormant volcano – that looms above the town also goes by two names: Mount Kazbek and Mount Kazbegi. In Georgian, the mountain is called Mkinvartsveri, which means ‘ice capped’. Among locals it’s nicknamed The Bride because the mountain ‘face’ is often hidden behind a veil of fog.

A snow-covered Mount Kazbek with the Kobi-Gudauri cable car running through its foothills.
Mount Kazbegi.

The traditional custodians of this area were the Tsanars, a tribe from the Northern Caucasus who oversaw the trade route between the South and North Caucasus via the Dariali Pass (where the modern-day Georgian Military Highway now lies).

The people from Kazbegi, known as the Mokhevs, were vassals of the Georgian crown and given special privileges. Many families were forced to resettle in the lowlands during the Soviet period, but aspects of their unique history and Khevi customs (including a cuisine rich in dairy and wheat) are kept alive.


Is Kazbegi worth visiting?

Whatever name you call it by, I think we can all agree that this is one of Georgia’s most picturesque destinations. Dare I say it’s one of the most beautiful places in the entire region. As an Australian who had never seen ‘real’ mountains before coming to Georgia, this landscape left a huge impression on me. In some respects, it’s just as impressive as Svaneti.

Kazbegi is an extremely popular destination both among foreign tourists and for Tbilisians who come up from the city for the weekend and for holidays. As a result, infrastructure is pretty good – but the downside is that the town does have a bit of a ‘touristy’ feel that some people might not like.

The Greater Caucasus mountains, rocky mountains shrouded in cloud, as seen from Kazbegi.
The Greater Caucasus mountains, as seen from Kazbegi.

In my opinion, the pros far outweigh the cons. Here are just a couple of reasons why I recommend you visit Kazbegi.

It’s very easy to get to from Tbilisi, especially compared to the more remote mountain regions that require a full day of driving. You can easily get up to Kazbegi from Tbilisi in a couple of hours, making this a great option if you’re on a tight schedule.

It’s accessible year-round. Unlike Tusheti and parts of Upper Svaneti that close off and empty out during winter, Kazbegi is an all-season destination. The Georgian Military Highway is one of the region’s main freight routes and currently the only land link with Russia. So to keep the trucks rolling, the road is maintained year-round. The stretch of highway between Gudauri and Kazbegi is prone to avalanches in winter, so road closures do happen – so access is NOT guaranteed every day in winter.

Fifth Season cabin against Mount Chaukhi in the Juta Valley, Georgia.
Fifth Season cabin and the Juta Valley near Kazbegi.

Last but not least, Kazbegi is home to the majestic Gergeti Trinity Church (pictured at the top), which is reason enough to book a trip! No matter your travel style or interests, this is a must-see in Georgia.

If you’re looking for well-trod hiking trails, spectacular mountain views and a breath of fresh air all within close proximity of Tbilisi, then there’s no better option than Kazbegi. If you’re looking for solitude, an off-the-beaten-track feel and more remote trekking routes, then another of the mountain regions (such as Racha or Khevsureti) might be more your style.

In this guide, I make a detailed comparison between Georgia’s different mountain areas: Kazbegi versus Svaneti versus Tusheti and other mountain regions.

A stone lion fountain in the centre of Kazbegi, a small mountain town in the Greater Caucasus in Georgia.
A memorial fountain in the centre of Stepantsminda town.

When is the best time to visit Kazbegi?

There is no bad time to visit Kazbegi, apart from in deep winter when the road might be closed and the town unreachable. I have been lucky enough to visit Kazbegi a dozen times now in every season. It’s amazing how much the landscape and the feel of the place changes throughout the year.

Generally speaking, I think the best time to visit Kazbegi is in late spring (late May to mid June) or in early autumn (September/October). Here is a very broad overview of what to expect from the different seasons.

Kazbegi in spring

Kazbegi sits at an elevation of 1,740 metres, thus spring arrives a little later than it does in Tbilisi. Snow often continues to fall into April and even May, while average daytime temperatures hover around 10-15 degrees Celsius. Some days bring brilliant sunshine, others gusting winds and thick fog. So come prepared for anything.

When I visited in March, there were still traces of snow and ice on the trail up to Gergeti Trinity Church. The landscape was quite dry and brown. On both my recent visits in late May, the weather was near perfect – crisp and clear, with a green tinge to the hills and the first wildflowers budding. But May is the wettest month on average in Kazbegi so I might have just got lucky (twice!).

As with most places, the warmer weather and sunshine brings good vibes to Kazbegi and the town has an upbeat feel. Some smaller restaurants and cafes that close over winter might not re-open until summer so always have a backup plan.

Hiking trails in Juta and Truso are normally not accessible until the last weeks of May or the first weeks of June.

Pink wildflowers in the Juta Valley near Kazbegi in June.
Wildflowers in the Juta Valley near Kazbegi in June.

Kazbegi in summer

Summer (especially July/August) is peak tourist season in Kazbegi. Temperatures are still relatively mild, with average highs during the day of 22 degrees Celsius. These months are far less rainy and the days are longer, which makes summer the best time for trekking. Nights are cool even in the middle of July so always pack a jacket.

In summer, the landscape is green and some of the hills are covered with wildflowers. The highest peaks remain snow-capped so you still get those iconic mountain vistas.

The downside of Kazbegi in summer is that it does get crowded, especially on weekends. Accommodation prices go up with the increased demand, and it can be hard to get a seat in the van to/from Kazbegi (although drivers do put on extra services). Don’t even think about showing up for lunch at Rooms on a weekend in summer without a reservation.

A giant marble stone head sculpture in a field of yellow grass and pink wildflowers in Sno near Kazbegi.
Sno village near Stepantsminda in August.

Visit Kazbegi in fall

Temperatures start to drop around September and by late October, it’s decidedly chilly. I visited Kazbegi in mid-September and thought the temperature was near perfect. However, the air was quite thick and visibility was limited.

Kazbegi itself doesn’t have much of the typical autumn foliage you see in Racha. The Truso and Juta Valleys near Kazbegi are better destinations for fall colours.

Gergeti Trinity Church on a brown and dry hill.
Autumn colours at Gergeti Trinity.

Kazbegi in winter

Winter is low season in Kazbegi, so you’ll find the town is a lot quieter than at other times of year. Some businesses close, but the majority of guesthouses and larger restaurants remain open for tourists.

In Stepantsminda, daytime temperatures hover around 0-5 degrees from December through to March. Nights are bitterly cold in January especially. The further out (and up) you go, the colder it gets.

Snow is common throughout the winter months and hiking is not recommended (though snowshoe hiking is possible). The access points to Truso Valley and Sno Valley are usually off-limits until May/June. Generally speaking, winter is better suited to relaxing indoors. You can still get up to Gergeti Trinity, though.

Keep in mind that mid-December through to April is ski season in nearby Gudauri so the road is busier at this time. Christmas/New Years events and celebrations take place in both Kazbegi and Gudauri, making it a nice area to spend the holidays (remember that Orthodox Christmas falls a week later in Georgia).

Every winter, the highway between Gudauri and Kazbegi closes at times due to heavy snow and avalanche risk. It usually gets cleared pretty quickly, but every year there is at least one incident of Kazbegi being cut off for several days. One Christmas Eve I tried to travel to Kazbegi, but got stuck in Gudauri due to the Jvari Pass being closed.

When this happens, it might be possible to bypass the closed section of road using the cable car to travel between Gudauri and Kobi.

A snowy valley near Gudauri in Georgia with mountain peaks, as seen when snowshoe hiking.
Snowshoe hiking in the Sioni Valley outside Stepantsminda.

How many days in Kazbegi?

I recommend spending at least two nights in Kazbegi so that you have one full day for hiking. Remember that Kazbegi is often foggy and overcast, so if you want to hedge your bets against the weather, add an extra day to your itinerary just in case.

Kazbegi town itself is very small, but there is quite a lot to see and do in the area. You could easily stay for longer – especially if you’re into trekking. Sno Valley and Juta, the Truso Valley and Dariali Gorge can all be visited from Kazbegi, so you could plausibly make this your base for a 4-5 day stay in the mountains.

Later, I’ll share my recommended 3-day itinerary for Kazbegi.


How to get to Kazbegi from Tbilisi

There are several ways to travel between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. When deciding on your transport method, keep in mind that the Georgian Military Highway is definitely up there with the more demanding roads in Georgia.

Everyone has a different appetite for risk. Personally, I have done this trip by marshrutka, by shared taxi, by private car and on a tour bus – and I have come to the conclusion that I would much prefer to avoid marshrutka vans whenever possible, especially on the way down.

If you’re trying to get to Kazbegi from a different place in Georgia, it’s usually necessary to transit through Tbilisi first. The exception is if you’re coming from Kakheti/Pankisi Valley, in which case you can take a shortcut if travelling by private car. I’ll explain this in more detail in the onward transportation section.

Private transfer with GoTrip

If you want to experience all the glory of the Georgian Military Highway and feel safe and at ease while doing it, then I highly recommend you pay a bit extra and get a driver for at least one leg of the trip.

GoTrip is a Georgian service that allows you to book a car and driver for a full day. The price is fixed in advance, and you can stop whenever and wherever you want. Drivers have proper winter tires and child car seats are available for no extra cost.

This example itinerary I designed for Tbilisi – Ananuri – Pasanauri – Gudauri – Dariali – Kazbegi – Tbilisi starts from just 200 GEL per car.

Visit the GoTrip.ge website to book a car →

Dariali Monastery, a pink stone Orthodox church with a blue door surrounded by mountains in the Dariali Gorge in Georgia.
Hire a private car to visit Dariali Monastery en route to Kazbegi.

Marshrutka from Tbilisi to Kazbegi

If you’re on a budget, there are regular marshrutka vans, ‘tourist’ vans that make a few short photo stops on the GMH, and shared taxis to Kazbegi. These all depart from Didube Station. For up-to-date travel times, fares and other travel tips, see my full guide to travelling from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.

A word of caution: Marshrutka vans tend to take the road very fast and it can be quite scary. Regular marshrutkas make a single pitstop on the way up and down at this rest stop.

Self-driving to Kazbegi

The road to Kazbegi is manageable provided you are a confident and experienced driver. We recently self-drove to Kazbegi for the first time. The biggest challenges are the tight turns, the aggressive overtaking, the changeable weather – and worst of all, the rows of backed-up trucks that make the road narrow in places. If this sounds like too much, then you’re much better off going with an experienced driver who knows the roads.

Before you go, read up on my tips for driving in Georgia here. Be sure to check for any updates on road/weather conditions before you set off, either by asking a local in Kazbegi or by contacting Georgian Roads via their Facebook page or hotline.

A sedan will suffice for Kazbegi town and Gergeti Trinity, but a 4WD is required if you’re going further afield into the surrounding valleys (especially the travertines in Truso).

What is the road like?

The road up to Kazbegi is long and winding in parts. If you suffer from motion sickness, have your medication on hand.

As mentioned, some drivers take the bends really fast and it can be nail-biting, especially when you’re squished into the back of a crowded marshrutka.

Because this is a freight route, there are often trucks banked up on the road side waiting to cross the border into Russia. Oftentimes they block almost an entire lane, forcing traffic into one lane (despite being one of the most important roads in the country, the Military Highway is very narrow!).

Currently this road is undergoing a major upgrade. The border checkpoint is expanding, and a new tunnel is being built. Once finished, this should hopefully relieve some of the traffic on the road to Kazbegi.

Traffic on the Georgian Military Highway in winter.
Traffic on the Georgian Military Highway in winter.

Where to stop on the way to Kazbegi

The Georgian Military Highway is a destination in itself. It might be dangerous but it’s also incredibly beautiful – maybe even more beautiful than Kazbegi itself! This is another reason I recommend hiring a driver and taking the trip at a slow pace.

There are a dozen or so places to stop along the highway, including the popular Ananuri Fortress, the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, and Gudauri. There are plenty of offbeat attractions too, such as the Giant Stone Heads near Sno village.

Read my full guide to the Georgian Military Highway and my must-see places to visit between Tbilisi and Kazbegi →

Ananuri Fortres, a beautiful stone church between Kazbegi and Tbilisi.
Ananuri Fortress, one of the places to visit on the way to Kazbegi.

Leaving Kazbegi

To get back to Tbilisi from Kazbegi, you can either pre-book a GoTrip car to pick you up from your hotel or take a marshrutka/shared taxi. The latter depart from the small bus station on Kazbegi’s main street (see the exact location here on Google Maps).

Tickets for the van cannot be purchased in advance. If you’re travelling during summer, you can try asking your guesthouse to phone ahead and save you a seat – but this might not be possible. I recommend aiming for one of the earlier vans at either 7am or 8am as these tend to be less crowded. (When I last travelled in June, the 7am marshrutka was there waiting for passengers at 6.15am. It departed on time with only a handful of us on board.)

Avoid the later vans that arrive back in Tbilisi after dark.

For fares and travel tips, see my Kazbegi-Tbilisi transport guide →

Kazbegi to Tbilisi marshrutka timetable.
Kazbegi to Tbilisi marshrutka times at the bus station in Kazbegi.

Can you visit Kazbegi as a day trip?

Yes, it’s possible to visit Kazbegi as a day trip from Tbilisi. I highly recommend you stay overnight – but if a day is all you have, then a day is better than nothing! It’s not viable to hike up to Gergeti Trinity on a day trip, so you will have to visit the church by car.

There are two ways to do this: Either by joining a private or group tour, or by booking a round-trip transfer with GoTrip.ge.

A dirt road in the Juta Valley, as seen from the backseat of a Delica car.
On the road in Juta Valley.

Best Kazbegi day tours

There are dozens of Kazbegi day tours from Tbilisi, and quality varies. For this route, I recommend choosing a company with recent reviews, a clear itinerary, and explicit information about whether the Gergeti SUV, lunch and hotel pickup are included.

Here are a couple of my favourite Tbilisi Kazbegi itineraries.

Kazbegi Full-Day Group Tour with Gamarjoba Tours: 12 hours duration, includes several stops on the highway & Kazbegi. Does not include the SUV to Gergeti Trinity or lunch. This is a good option for budget travellers. The operator, Gamarjoba Georgia, is one of my top recommended tour companies in Georgia. Book here through Get Your Guide →

Tour to Ananuri, Truso Valley & Stepantsminda with Off-roading: Adventurous, budget-friendly group tour with Friendly.ge, from $60 per person. Book through the website and use the code wanderlush at checkout to get 10% off, or book here through Viator →

Full Day Mtskheta & Kazbegi with Gourmet Lunch: 10 hours duration, includes hotel transfers, a guide, a visit to Gergeti Trinity by SUV & lunch at Rooms Hotel. This is a great option for an all-in-one tour. Book here through Get Your Guide →

Day trip to Kazbegi with GoTrip.ge

This option involves travelling with a private car and driver, not a guide, and is thus better suited to independent travellers. It’s the best option if you want to make lots of stops on the Military Highway and see the more obscure landmarks (such as mosaics and travertine springs) that group tours don’t visit.

I love GoTrip and I use it on a monthly basis in Georgia. Think of it as a long-distance Uber: Drivers and cars are vetted, prices are fair (and fixed – so you never have to negotiate), and you can stop whenever and wherever you want as long as you finish your trip within a 24-hour window (multi-day trips are also available). Child car seats are available and in winter, drivers use proper winter tires.

You can either go straight to Kazbegi, or you can make the most of it and add in stops along the way. As an example, this itinerary I designed for Tbilisi – Ananuri – Pasanauri – Gudauri – Dariali – Kazbegi – Tbilisi starts from 200 GEL per car.

Visit the GoTrip.ge website and use their itinerary planner to create your own day trip itinerary →


Where to stay in Kazbegi

Majority of accommodations in the Kazbegi area are located in town. Kazbegi is set over a valley and two steep hills, each with different views, and its own pros and cons.

If you’re keen on sampling Kazbegi’s best restaurants and you want to be close to transport then I recommend staying in town on the eastern bank of the river. If mountain views are a priority (and you don’t mind a short hike at the end of each day), go for a place on the hill above Stepantsminda.

And if you plan on trekking and you want to be close to the church/glacier trailhead, stay in Gergeti village on the upper western side of the river. This will cut a good 30 minutes off your hike time.

Here is a shortlist of my top accommodations in Kazbegi.

Where to stay for the best mountain views

Guest House Tamta (guesthouse): One of the best value-for-money guesthouses in the entire country – really! I recently stayed here with my dad and we both agree that it was the best accommodation of the trip. Private rooms are spacious (with ensuite bathrooms) and there is a shared kitchen with a washing machine. The views towards Gergeti Trinity from the rooms and front balcony are picture-perfect. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi (boutique hotel): One of Georgia’s best hotels, featuring boutique rooms, stylish lounges, a terrific restaurant & postcard-perfect views of Gergeti Trinity. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Kazbegi Cabins (cabin): Designer chalet with a loft-style sleeping area & floor-to-ceiling windows for breathtaking mountain vistas. The onsite cafe-restaurant-coworking-space, Maisi, is a terrific place to grab a coffee or light meal. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Hilltop Kazbegi (mid-range hotel): Modern lodge-style hotel with comfortable doubles and triples, modern bathrooms & cosy common areas. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

View of Gergeti village and green mountains from the terrace at Rooms Hotel in Kazbegi.
Rooms Hotel Kazbegi.

Where to stay in town

Intourist Kazbegi (boutique hotel): Gorgeous boutique rooms decorated with retro posters, a beautiful lounge and restaurant & a huge mountain-facing deck. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Ketino’s Home (guesthouse): Clean, modern rooms with en suites and private balconies, great views & an excellent kitchen. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Camp at Kuro (campground): Budget-friendly rooms & camping facilities close to town (summer season only). Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Where to stay if you’re hiking to the church

Red Stone (guesthouse): Comfortable family-style guesthouse with large rooms, spectacular views across the valley & one of the best breakfasts in Kazbegi. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Gergeti Trio (cabin): Beautiful new chalet-style cabins with kitchenettes and modern interiors, located right at the trailhead to Gergeti Trinity. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Where to stay outside Kazbegi

Fifth Season Cabin (Juta): Private rooms set in a classic mountain lodge near the village of Juta, 20km from Kazbegi. → Check rates & availability here on Booking.com.

Zeta Camping (Juta): Budget friendly campground and hostel-style guesthouse close to hiking trails around Juta and Sno Valley. → Book via Facebook.

For more recommendations, view my full Kazbegi accommodation guide →


Is Kazbegi expensive?

Because of its popularity, accommodations can be more expensive in Kazbegi compared to some other parts of Georgia (although they are not nearly as pricey as hotels in Gudauri). On the flip-side, because there is so much competition, you can find very good deals if you know where to look (I will run through my suggestions later).

The price of food and alcohol is high at some restaurants in the centre of town, and local taxis are quite expensive.

Regarding accommodations and tours, prices go up slightly in summer and on weekends/holidays, while you can find some great deals during shoulder season.

Example travel costs for Kazbegi for 2 people

  • Private transfer to Kazbegi with GoTrip: 200 GEL
  • Taxi to Gergeti Trinity: 60 GEL (or 15-20 GEL per person in a shared van)
  • Transfer to Juta or Truso by taxi: 90 GEL (or 100-150 GEL for a private driver)
  • Room in a mid-range hotel or guesthouse: 120-150 GEL per night
  • Bakery breakfast: 5-10 GEL
  • Coffee & cake at a cafe: 25 GEL
  • Lunch at Rooms: 100 GEL
  • Dinner at a local restaurant: 70-80 GEL

Total budget for three nights in Kazbegi: Approx. 1,300 GEL for two people.

Gergeti Trinity Church in Georgia.
Save money by hiking to Gergeti Trinity!

Is there an ATM in Kazbegi?

Yes, there are several ATMs in Kazbegi including one at the Liberty Bank on the main street (just north of the police station). TBC and Bank of Georgia ATMs are located in the lobby of Rooms Hotel.

There is a currency exchange office on the main square opposite the bus station – but I highly recommend withdrawing GEL directly rather than exchanging money.

Some guesthouses and many of the smaller restaurants in Kazbegi do not accept card. Make sure you have enough cash on you to cover your accommodation, marshrutka tickets, and other incidental purchases.


Is there WIFI in Kazbegi?

Free WIFI is available at most guesthouses, hotels and restaurants, but quality varies. In general, the further you are from the centre of town, the spottier the coverage.

For navigation, messaging and checking road/weather updates, mobile data is much more reliable. Magti has the best coverage in Kazbegi town and the surrounding valleys. Even if you’re visiting Georgia for a short period, I still recommend buying a Magti SIM/eSIM – it’s cheap, and quick to set up.

There is no Magti office in Stepantsminda so make sure you get yourself sorted before you leave Tbilisi. Use the Magti app to top up when you’re on the road.

If you’re trekking further into the mountains or to Juta or Truso, you will need to download maps for offline use through Maps.Me or similar.

Clothes on the line in front of a mountain backdrop in Kazbegi.
There are no laundromats in Kazbegi.

Other useful services in Kazbegi

Here are a few other services that might come in handy (you can find the exact locations on my Kazbegi Map, linked below).

  • As mentioned, there are several ATMs in Kazbegi. I normally use the TBC ATM inside Rooms.
  • There are several grocery stores in town, including a Spar. Walk a bit further down the main highway and you will find a Nikora and a Magniti – these two stores have much better prices. Another option is the local Market Ska on the main street.
  • Next door to Market Ska, you’ll find a popular local bakery that sells fresh shoti bread and delicious khachapuri and lobiani. Perfect for an early morning or pre-bus snack (they open at 8am and always sell out).
  • There is a PSP pharmacy on the main street close to Kazbegi Square and the bus station. You can also find a small pharmacy located inside a row of shops set back from the road near Ska, and a second larger pharmacy opposite the same supermarket next to the ATM. All carry essentials (bandaids, ibuprofen, etc.).
  • There is no laundromat or coin laundry in Kazbegi. If you need to do laundry, you are best off asking at your guesthouse.
  • In case of emergency, there is a 24-hour medical clinic at the southern end of the main street, opposite the police station.
  • Kazbegi’s Tourist Information Office (Visitor Center) is located on the corner right next to the bus station. Staff are pretty helpful in my experience. You can also buy trail maps and ask staff for advice at the Mountain Freaks office down the street.
A stone Visitors Centre building in Kazbegi, Georgia.
The Visitor Centre in Kazbegi.

Staying safe in Kazbegi

Like the rest of Georgia, Kazbegi is a very safe destination for tourists overall, provided you exercise common sense. There are a couple of specific things to be aware of.

Dogs in Kazbegi

Kazbegi has lots of dogs. Lots and lots and lots of dogs. Majority of the pups in town are either indifferent or affectionate towards humans. If you go hiking up to Gergeti Trinity, especially in the early morning, you will surely pick up a friendly trail dog to accompany you. Just be aware that when these street or family dogs start to wander into other dogs’ territory, brawls often ensue.

Shepherd dogs are another story. If you encounter a large dog guarding animals or protecting a property in the hills above Kazbegi, exercise extreme caution and call out for help if you feel threatened.

A man stands on a road in front of snow-capped mountains.
Our trail dog (we called her Debbie) followed us all the way up to the church.

Traffic & road safety

The Georgian Military Highway runs right through the centre of Kazbegi. It’s often very busy with large freight trucks. Be extremely careful when crossing the main road as trucks often hurtle through at high speed. I really hate the heavy traffic in Kazbegi and the noise pollution and dust it brings. I can’t imagine what it’s like to live so close to such a busy road.

The backstreets are a lot quieter, but you should still exercise caution around traffic. When travelling to and from Kazbegi, I highly recommend you avoid being on the road after dark.

Staying safe when hiking in Kazbegi

Exercise common sense when it comes to hiking – pack the proper gear, bring plenty of water and snacks (although you can usually find a natural water spring to fill up your bottle), make sure you have a map, and let someone such as your guesthouse host know where you’re going and when you’re expecting to return.

This article provides more information about Kazbegi’s mountain rescue service, which is active during trekking season.

Piles of trekking maps for Kazbegi for sale at Mountain Freaks.
Kazbegi hiking maps for sale at the Mountain Freaks office.

What to pack for Kazbegi

This being a rural area, I recommend dressing a bit more conservatively in Kazbegi. There are no hard and fast rules, but personally I would not feel comfortable wearing a short skirt (the weather doesn’t really lend itself to short skirts anyway). Even if you’re visiting in summer, remember to bring something warm for the evenings. A lightweight jacket is ideal.

Gergeti Trinity is an active place of worship with a strict dress code. Both men and women need to wear long pants/a skirt and have their shoulders covered. Women also need to cover their hair. There are wrap-skirts and scarves available to borrow at the entrance, but for ease, I recommend dressing in appropriate attire and carrying your own lightweight scarf if you’re a woman.

For the Gergeti Trinity Church hike, good joggers will suffice. Hiking boots and poles are recommended for Juta and Truso. Sun protection gear (a hat and sunscreen) is a must, as is a reusable water bottle.

If you plan on trekking through Truso Valley, remember to bring your passport/ID card and carry it with you at all times. Georgian border guards are present in this area and may ask you for ID.

For more tips, see my Georgia Packing Guide →


How to get around Kazbegi

The centre of Kazbegi town is quite walkable provided you have the right footwear to tackle the steep and uneven streets.

The Bolt app sometimes works in Kazbegi, but the pool of drivers is tiny and it is not something I would rely on. For Gergeti, Juta, Truso, Sno and Dariali, it is usually easier to organise a local taxi through your guesthouse or agree on a fare with a driver in town. Remember to always settle the fare before you get in.

To get up to Gergeti Trinity Church by road, you can charter a Delica taxi. See the next section for more details.

In 2026, the travel agency Mountain Freaks unfortunately cancelled its popular shuttle service to Juta, Dariali and Truso Valley. Mountain Travel Agency is an alternative company with a similar daily schedule of vans. They also rent camping and climbing equipment, and organise expeditions to the summit of Mount Kazbek.

Travellers who want to hike independently (with no time constraints and more flexibility) can use local taxis to travel to and from the trailheads.

As a very rough guide, you can expect to pay around:

  • 80-100 GEL (to Truso Valley and back)
  • 100-150 GEL (to Juta and back)

Mountain Freaks still offers guided hikes around Kazbegi – visit their website or office for details.

A colourfully painted house with the Mountain Freaks Kazbegi office inside.
The Mountain Freaks office in Kazbegi.

How to visit Gergeti Trinity Church from Kazbegi

When you arrive in Kazbegi, your first priority should be getting up to visit the church. There are a couple of different ways to reach Gergeti Trinity, the most popular being by road (around 20 minutes drive one-way) or by hiking (2-3 hours return).

The best part of Gergeti Trinity in my opinion is not the church at all – although it is very cute – but rather the views of Kazbegi from the yard and the views of the church itself from afar.

One of the main advantages of hiking is that you get to see the church and mountains from different perspectives on your approach. If you go by foot, you can spend as long as you like at the top without having to worry about getting back to your driver.

Tip: If you’re visiting Kazbegi on a day trip from Tbilisi, transfers to and from Gergeti will often be included in your itinerary. Some operators charge extra so be sure to check before you book.

Gergeti Trinity Church seen from afar on a green hill.
Gergeti Trinity Church.

Delica taxi to Gergeti Trinity

In Kazbegi, there is a fleet of white Delica SUV taxis that exist for the sole purpose of ferrying people to and from Gergeti. You can find them all around town, but the easiest place to flag one down is on the main square, by the Alexander Kazbegi statue, opposite the bus stop.

The standard price to go up and back (including around 30 minutes wait time at the top) is around 15-20 GEL per person (provided the car is full). The more people you have, the cheaper it is – so it pays to pair up with other travellers. If you want to hire the whole vehicle, prices range from 50-70 GEL on average. Approximate travel time is 20 minutes each way, and the driver will wait for 45 minutes at the top.

Update: In recent years, significant improvements have been made to the road up to the church. It is now fully asphalted so that even a sedan can manage it without any issues. The road is smooth and easy to navigate.

A white SUV ready to take tourists to Gergeti Trinity Church.
These Delica SUVs take tourists up to Gergeti Trinity Church.

Hiking to Gergeti Trinity

This is far and away my favourite easy hike in Georgia. But – it’s crucial to follow the correct trail, otherwise you’ll end up on a steep shale path that’s extremely unpleasant!

The trail I found follows a gentle incline and approaches the church from the back, so you get fantastic views all the way up. View my full instructions for finding the trailhead and navigating the path here.

Tip: The church gets crowded in the late morning and afternoon, so I recommend visiting as early as possible. Whenever I hike up I leave Kazbegi at 7am or 8am to reach the church before the SUVs start running. In the morning in summer, the sun will still be behind the mountains so you can get great photos of the church and Mount Kazbegi.

A woman stands on a mountain overlooking Kazbegi town.
Feeling on top of the world after the hike!

Continuing the hike to Gergeti Glacier

I have never been further than Gergeti Trinity Church, but – if you want to keep hiking, you can quite easily continue along the same route past the church to Gergeti Glacier. The glacier trek takes 8-9 hours in total so it’s best to get an early start from Kazbegi.

Bring plenty of drinking water, download a map, and make sure you have the appropriate gear. See more in this guide.


Other things to do in Kazbegi

There are a few other Kazbegi attractions aside from Gergeti Trinity Church that I recommend you check out while you’re in town. These places can all be reached by foot.

Rooms Hotel

The terrace at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, a refurbished sanatorium in the Caucasus mountains.
The terrace at Rooms Kazbegi.

Rooms Kazbegi (created by the same team behind the Rooms and Stamba boutique hotels in Tbilisi, and Fabrika) is one of the most well-known accommodations in Georgia. But even if you’re not staying here, it’s still worth coming up for a meal so that you can enjoy the mountain-facing, sun-drenched terrace.

The lunch-dinner menu features salads and burgers (pictured below) along with Georgian fare. Prices are fair considering the location, and the service is always good in my experience. Walk-ins can also enjoy the hotel’s buffet breakfast, served from 8am.

The views at Rooms are incredible and the interior of the hotel lounge is gorgeous. Just know that the walk up the hill from town is a bit of a hard slog.


Ioane Natlismcemeli (Prophet Elijah Fathers Monastery)

For more spectacular mountain views, the petite St Elia’s Monastery is located on the hill behind Rooms. It looks directly over the town and onto Gergeti Trinity on the opposite side of the valley.

Ioane Natlismcemeli, a small stone church in the mountains of Kazbegi Georgia.
Ioane Natlismcemeli with a view towards Gergeti Trinity Church.

It takes around 45 minutes to reach the church by foot from the centre of Kazbegi. Be prepared for a short but sharp incline.

A river gorge in Kazbegi, Georgia.
The river gorge behind Ioane Natlismcemeli. Spectacular!

Behind the church, there is a spectacular gorge and glacier that you can view from the top of the ridge. Once in a while during spring, there is a torrential downpour and the river swells massively.


Things to see in Kazbegi town

As mentioned, Kazbegi is a very small town (technically a townlet or ‘daba’ in Georgian) that you can easily explore on foot. It’s not the most pleasant place to walk around, though – currently there is a lot of construction going on and many of the roads have been torn up.

There isn’t a whole lot to see, but you will come across some charming architecture, ruins of old stone houses, and water wells.

There is a great piece of street art in the centre. It was painted by local artist Dante Mdante in 2019 for the Niko Project.

Street art in Kazbegi, Georgia.
Street art in Kazbegi.

The Archangel Gabriel Church is worth stopping at. It has interesting carvings around the door (note the two lions chained together) and a little stone model of the church on the front fence.

Right next to the church, the Museum of History is housed inside a huge building. It has been ‘temporarily’ closed for as long as I can remember, and unfortunately shows no signs of reopening.

There is a cool Alexander Kazbegi statue in front of the museum with a wreath decoration that is almost identical to the Alexander Pushkin monument off Freedom Square in Tbilisi.

A statue of Alexander Kazbegi in front of the Kazbegi Museum.
Kazbegi Museum (temporarily closed).

Behind the church, there is an abandoned Soviet-era cable car station building. The double-arms design is very typical of cable car stations in Georgia – it’s almost identical to the one in Samgori in Tbilisi, and very similar to some of the stations in Chiatura.

Incredibly, this cable car was built to connect the town of Stepantsminda with Gergeti Trinity Church. But the project was a huge failure: Locals prefer to walk to the church as a sign of their devotion, so the cable car was frowned upon. Apparently it was dismantled shortly after it opened (but I am not sure of the exact dates).

These days the lower station building is covered with graffiti art.

An abandoned concrete Soviet cable car station building in Kazbegi, Georgia against a backdrop of snowy Caucasus mountains.
Abandoned cable car station in Kazbegi.

Right in the centre of Kazbegi there is a rather lovely lion’s head fountain with a plate decorated with Shota Rustaveli.

There are also a few interesting Soviet-era bas reliefs scattered around town, including several on the bus station and one very impressive music-themed sculptural wall behind the fountain.

Soviet mosaic sculpture in Kazbegi, Georgia.
Bas-relief decorating the bus station in Kazbegi.
A Soviet bas relief in Kazbegi depicting local music traditions.
Soviet sculpture – part of a much bigger bas-relief on a wall behind the fountain.

Evenings in Kazbegi town

There is something special about Kazbegi in the early evening. I highly recommend going for a walk around town around sunset when the shepherds bring their flocks home for the night and the narrow streets fill up with sheep.

When it’s overcast (and it usually is), the sight of the mountains peeking through the clouds above the rooftops is just magical.


Things to do around Kazbegi: Hiking trails, ancient watchtowers, mineral pools & more

The valleys and mountains around Kazbegi hold plenty of treasures. Here are more places to visit further afield.

See this list of Kazbegi side trips and day hikes for even more ideas.

Juta & the Chaukhi Valley

Southeast of Stepantsminda town, the Juta Valley (Chaukhi Valley) is one of the best places for a day hike near Kazbegi. The popular day loop takes you from Fifth Season cabin to a lake and a waterfall, with epic views of Chaukhi massif along the way.

Juta Valley near Kazbegi, with a stone mountain fringed by green hills.
Hiking in the Juta Valley.

You need around 5-6 hours total for the hike, plus an hour to relax at Fifth Season.

Note that access to Juta remains changeable following road damage in 2025. At the time of my latest update, vehicles could not drive the final 2.6 kilometres to the village, meaning you need to add extra walking time before you reach the usual trailhead.

For more details and a full breakdown of the walk, see my Juta Valley Hiking Guide.


Sno village Giant Stone Heads

This quirky ‘open-air sculpture museum’ is located at the entrance to Sno village on the way to Juta, south-east of Kazbegi. Half a dozen gigantic stone heads dot the landscape, each one carved in the image of a great Georgian writer, poet or leader.

Giant stone head sculptures emerge from the landscape in Sno.
The Giant Stone Heads in Sno.

The sculptures are a 10-minute drive from Kazbegi. Entry is by 5 GEL donation.


Zakagori Fortress & travertines (Truso Valley)

Zakagori Fortress is located in the Truso Valley, roughly 75 minutes from Kazbegi by car. You can either hike to the fortress from the village of Kvemo Okrokana, or take a 4WD deeper into the valley.

The remains of an old stone tower in the Truso Valley.
Tower ruins at the entrance to Truso Valley.

If you don’t want to go all the way to the fortress, you can hike for around 3-hours round-trip to the Truso travertines and Abano Lake. The colours and textures of the mineral-enriched waters are quite something.

The fortress itself is very close to the South Ossetia (Tskhinvali/Samachablo) demarcation. It’s safe to hike here, but border guards are present and it’s a requirement to carry photo ID (your passport) with you at all times.


Pansheti Mineral Pool & stone towers

Located 2.5km south of Kazbegi centre on the western side of the river, this open-air ‘swimming pool’ is fed by natural mineral springs. The water is cold, crystal clear and very clean, while the mountain backdrop is simply stunning.

Pansheti swimming pool, and open-air cold mineral water pool near Kazbegi in Georgia.
Pansheti swimming pool near Kazbegi.

There isn’t much infrastructure in the area at the moment, so no toilets or change rooms. A Tbilisi-based firm is working on a new Pansheti pool, which was supposed to be completed in 2023 (as far as I can tell, work hasn’t started yet). The architect’s plans are pretty neat.

The pools are a 30-40 minute walk from the centre of Kazbegi via a flat path that follows the river. Alternatively, you can take a taxi and get there in 5 minutes.

If you’re a fan of sulfur pools, make sure you check out the sulfur geyser in Vani (south of Kutaisi).

Stone defensive towers in the village of Pansheti near Kazbegi, Georgia.
Defensive towers in Pansheti.

Beyond the pool, there are some old tower ruins in Pansheti that are worth visiting. Do take care as there are aggressive dogs in the area.


Sioni Basilica & Sioni Valley

Constructed some time between the 6th-10th centuries, Sioni Basilica is one of the oldest and most sacred churches in the Kazbegi area. It is located right off the highway, 10km south of Kazbegi, in Sioni village.

Walk up to the church for an amazing view of the Military Road and the valley, and to see the ancient watchtower adjacent to the church up close.

Sioni Basilica, an ancient stone church with a watchtower outside Kazbegi.
Sioni Basilica and the watchtower.

The Sioni Valley is another beautiful spot for trekking. It is much less popular than Juta or Truso, but you can find trails marked on Wikiloc. The interesting rock formations scattered around the valley make it very interesting.

We visited Sioni in winter when we did a snowshoe hike with Vagabond Adventures. If you are visiting the nearby ski resort of Gudauri and looking for alternative winter activities, a snowshoe expedition should be at the top of your list!


The Kobi-Gudauri Cable Car

Riding the four-stage gondola between Kobi village and New Gudauri ski resort is a must-do when visiting this part of Georgia in my opinion. The mountain scenery and views of Mount Kazbegi are absolutely awe-inspiring.

View of Mount Kazbek from the Kobi-Gudauri gondola.
View of Mount Kazbegi from the Kobi-Gudauri gondola.

The ride lasts for about 30 minutes in total. The cable car runs throughout the winter sports season, from December to April, then closes for a short period before reopening for summer. In 2026, it relaunched on July 18 and closed again on September 15.

The nearest station in Kobi is a 20-30 minute drive from Kazbegi. See my guide to the Kobi-Gudauri Cable Car for full details and tips on how to organise this excursion.


Dariali Gorge & the Archangel Monastery Complex

In the opposite direction, further towards Russia, Dariali Gorge is a steep mountain cleft that runs for almost 20km between Kazbegi and the border. This is one of the most visually impressive landscapes in the area. The jagged rock is a total contrast to the lush green Jvari Pass you cross to get into Kazbegi from the opposite direction. There are various trails and lookout points in the area.

Looking down over the Dariali Monastery, a religious complex in Georgia near the Russian border.
Dariali Monastery.

The Dariali Monastery Complex (AKA the Archangel Monastery Complex) is nestled beneath the mountains on the eastern side of the river gorge and is absolutely magnificent. The monk-managed Cafe Monastery inside the complex is a great place to stop for lunch (or a monastic wine tasting and cheese board!).

If you’re coming up to Kazbegi by car, I recommend overshooting the town and visiting Dariali first. Make a pit stop at this viewpoint along the way for a vista of the Terek Valley.


Gveleti waterfalls & lakes

The Gveleti waterfalls are located in Dariali Gorge, before the monastery. There are two falls – one big, one small – that can both be reached via an easy one-hour-ish hike from the highway.

The small waterfall is a bit more hidden and so less busy, but you’ll usually find lots of tourists here in the warmer months. On the way you’ll pass by the ruins of a church and the old Gveleti Tower.

Dariali Gorge in Georgia.
Dariali Gorge.

Further up the Terek River, a pair of tiny lakes known as the Gveleti Lakes are located just off the highway.


Where to eat in Kazbegi: Best Kazbegi restaurants

Kazbegi has more restaurants than you might expect for a town of its size. A few years ago, the food scene was limited to family kitchens. Several outstanding contemporary restaurants have opened in the past few years, and I think that Kazbegi has something of an emerging food scene.

Traditional Mokhevian dishes are heavy on wheat and dairy. Whilst in Kazbegi, be sure to try Mokhevuri khinkali (local dumplings filled with beef), and local pies such as mkhlovani (stuffed with wild greens and herbs), khabidzgina (with potato and cheese) and jimlovana (with mushrooms).

For a full list, see my dedicated guide to my favourite restaurants, cafes and bars in Kazbegi. Here are just a few of my favourites.

For breakfast in Kazbegi: Tiba, a contemporary restaurant with big windows overlooking the town, great coffee, and a menu of morning favourites.

For lunch with a view: The Kitchen at Rooms Kazbegi. The menu is extensive with some nice vegetarian options and salads. We usually go for the Rooms Burger.

For a special dinner: Maisi, where local produce is front and centre for dishes inspired by local recipes. My top pick is the kharchoerbo, a decadent fondue-like dish of cheese and ghee.

For a quick bite: Kazbegi Good Food is a no-frills family run place set in a tiny kitchen off the main road (just up from the bus station). The khinkali, mtsvadi BBQ and salads are all spot-on. The owners are super sweet.

A double decker khinkali dumpling held out for a photo at a family kitchen in Kazbegi, Georgia.
Making khinkali in Kazbegi.

Suggested 3-day Kazbegi itinerary

Day one: Leave Tbilisi early to tackle the Georgian Military Highway, stopping off at all the points of interest along the way, including in Pasanauri for an early lunch. Bypass Kazbegi and continue to Dariali Gorge to visit the monastery and viewpoint. Once in Kazbegi, stretch your legs with a walk around town and a short hike up to Ioane Natlismcemeli for a view.

Day two: Eat a calorie-heavy guesthouse breakfast then trek up to Gergeti Trinity Church. Back in town, grab a well-deserved lunch on the deck at Rooms Hotel. In the afternoon, head to the Pansheti Mineral Pool for a swim.

Day three: Spend the full day hiking around Kazbegi, either in the Truso Valley or in Juta.



Where to go after Kazbegi

Pankisi Valley

Pankisi Valley lies in the upper part of the Alazani Valley in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus. Home to the Kists whose ancestors came to Kakheti from Chechnya, this is one of the most culturally unique places to visit in Georgia.

To get to Pankisi from Kazbegi without doubling back through Tbilisi, you can take a shortcut from Tianeti to Akhmeta. The road is newly sealed and great to drive (suitable for a sedan).

Once in Pankisi, use Nazy’s Guest House in Jokolo as a base for exploring the area’s cultural landmarks and hiking routes.

Kakheti wine region

Telavi, the biggest city in Kakheti wine region, is just south of Akhmeta and can also be reached using the Tianeti-Akhmeta road from Kazbegi. From here, you can continue to Sighnaghi and explore all the wonderful monasteries, churches and vineyards Kakheti Wine Region has to offer.

You can avoid doubling back through Tbilisi by turning off the Military Highway and cutting across to Telavi via Tianeti. This is a lovely drive (via a newly sealed road) with some additional stops on the way.

Tusheti

To get to the more-remote mountain region of Tusheti from Kazbegi, you should first travel to Telavi or Zemo Alvani. Experienced drivers wait here to take visitors up to Omalo. The journey takes the better part of a day. See here for a detailed Tusheti transport guide.


Crossing the Russian border at Verkhny Lars

The Russian border checkpoint lies just beyond Dariali Gorge and can be reached by continuing along the Georgian Military Highway north from Kazbegi. It’s only possible to cross by vehicle (not by foot), so if you don’t have your own vehicle you will need to hitch a ride. It may also be possible to cross on a bicycle.

Depending on your nationality, a valid visa for Russia may be required. Border procedures, visa requirements and permitted modes of transport can change, so do not rely on this as a casual onward route without checking current reports first.

Find more information about the border crossing and visa requirements here on Carivanistan.


Are you planning a trip to Kazbegi? Is there something I forgot to cover that you need help with? Feel free to leave your comments or questions below.


Georgia Essentials

Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend for Georgia. Check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insurance is now mandatory for all travellers to Georgia. Insure your trip with HeyMondo, my preferred provider for single-trip and annual policies. Get 5% off when you book with my link.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS: Most flights into Georgia arrive in the early hours. Airport taxis should be avoided at all costs. For ease, pre-book a private transfer from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel or from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi with my partners at GoTrip.ge.

SIM CARD: Magti is my preferred provider, with prices from 10 GEL/week for unlimited data. See this guide for all the details about buying a Georgian SIM card.

ACCOMMODATION: Booking.com is the most widely used platform in Georgia. Use it to find family guesthouses, private apartments, hostels and hotels around the country.

CAR HIRE: Find a great deal on a rental car in Georgia – use the Local Rent website to book through a local agent (prices start from $30/day).

PRIVATE TRANSFERS: GoTrip.ge is a terrific service for booking a private professional driver and car for the day. Use it for A-to-B transfers, a customised round-trip itinerary, or a multi-day trip. You can stop wherever you like for as long as you like without the fixed price going up.

DAY TRIPS & CITY TOURS: Use Viator or Get Your Guide to browse a range of day trips and city tours. For alternative itineraries with expert guides, I recommend Friendly.ge. Use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off.

WINE TOURS: For in-depth day trips to Georgia’s wine regions, I recommend Eat This! Tours. Use the promo code wanderlush for 5% off.


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57 Comments

  1. Hi Emily – thanks heaps for the posts, it’s been tremendously helpful.

    I’d like to hike in Truso Valley. I’m planning to rent a car through Localrent, which forbids driving past Almasiani to the hike’s starting point in Kvemo Okrokana. Do you know if it would be possible to find a local taxi in Almasiani to take us to Kvemo Okrokana (and back later)?

    I’m aware of the transport options from Kazbegi as well as renting a 4WD with no such restrictions from Martyna z Gruzji – just want to consider all options. Thank you!

    1. Hello, glad to hear it!

      Almasiani is a very small settlement – there are definitely drivers around as the Kobi ski lift is there, but I wouldn’t count on being able to just find a driver on demand. I think you are much better off taking a taxi from Kazbegi, or pre-arranging with a driver to meet you in Almasiani if you do want to park there.

  2. Hi Emily, I discovered your blog quite late. It is amazing. I have planned my travel around the country based on your suggestions. I intend to travel to Georgia mid October. Kindly advise if 24-28th Oct will be a good time to visit Kazbegi. We are slow travelers. We like to soak in a place and not rush the itinerary. I understand i won’t see the green Kazbegi around that time. But what i do really NOT want is a foggy grey weather without sun. Would you suggest us to visit Kazbegi around that time? Thank you for your help. Regards, Neelasree

    1. Hi Neelasree, it’s impossible to say for sure what the weather will be like, I’m sorry! It could be raining, or it could be beautiful autumn sunshine. The weather forecast says sunshine and chilly temperatures.

  3. Your blogs are so comprehensive – thank you! We are visiting in October/November with our children (5, 5, and 8) and self-driving. We’re currently trying to decide between Racha and Kazbegi… seems off beaten path vs iconic views. Do you have a recommendation? Thanks again for all the information!!

    1. Hi Shannon, are you hiring a car? Kazbegi is indeed iconic, but personally I will always say Racha, especially at that time of year when the colours are on display.

  4. Hi Emily,
    Thank you for the information! We are visiting in mid-August. Do you know if there would any snow left on Mt. Kazbegi? Or would it be completely melted?

    Thank you!

  5. Hi Emily,
    I’m so impressed by your site — incredibly thorough and helpful content! Thank you for helping us learn about this still somewhat obscure destination in so much detail! We are planning a 3-4 day visit to Kazbegi for July and had a couple of rather specific questions. First, do you have any recommendations for a gluten-free eater? It seems a lot of the traditional dishes are wheat-based but I’ve seen mention of corn flour as well and wondered whether GF diets are starting to be accommodated at all? Second, we are very interested in hearing some Georgian choral singing (which is renowned among people who pay attention to such things, like us) and were hoping we could get a chance to hear a concert, dinner performance or even a church service with a serious choir. Any ideas?? Many thanks!!

    1. Hi David, thank you!

      GF is not hugely accommodated in Georgian cuisine, but there are options in some cafes/restaurants in Tbilisi (usually non-traditional foods). Corn flour is indeed used widely for dishes like mchadi, so that is always an option. But finding GF khachapuri or khinkali will be difficult, maybe impossible. In Kazbegi, I would try the more contemporary restaurants (Maisi, etc.) as they might be able to accommodate you.

      Here is a list: https://wander-lush.org/best-restaurants-in-kazbegi-georgia/

      For polyphonic/coral singing, you can see a list of churches and venues here: https://wander-lush.org/live-music-in-tbilisi-georgian-folk-dance-polyphony/

      Enjoy your travels!

  6. Hi Emily,

    First of all, you are very popular on reddit. A lot of people on the travel subreddit suggested me to visit your website for anything related to Georgia. I have been reading and going through multiple pages and I must tell you, this is an absolute cheat code you have here to help anyone planning to visit Georgia. Thank you so much!

    I am planning to surprise my wife on our anniversary in January and planning to visit Kazbegi as she loves mountains. I have couple of questions if you won’t mind me answering:

    1. How will be the weather and what areas will be accessible around Kazbegi to visit/hike?

    2. Can we do a day trip to kobi Gudauri Gondola from Kazbegi?

    thanks and keep writing.

    1. Hi Ishaan, that’s very nice to hear! I don’t use Reddit (maybe I should!) so I appreciate that you found me through there.

      To answer your questions –

      1. Every year is a bit different, and weather in the mountains is notoriously unpredictable. Sometimes Kazbegi itself is cut off for periods if the Jvari Pass between Gudauri and Stepantsminda is closed. (This has already happened several times this season.) If the weather is fine (fingers crossed), then the town and Gergeti Trinity Church will be accessible. I highly recommend doing a snowshoe hike in the area. Many of the valleys are suitable – we did ours last year in Sioni Valley with Mountain Freaks, based in Gudauri. Here is some more info: https://wander-lush.org/things-to-do-in-gudauri-georgia/

      2. Yes! And I highly recommend it. You will need a taxi to get to the first station (in Kobi), then you can do the cable car round-trip, perhaps with lunch in New Gudauri. Just note the operating hours for the gondolas. Here is a full guide: https://wander-lush.org/kobi-gudauri-cable-car/

      I hope this helps! Wishing you and your wife an incredible trip!

      1. Thank you so much for the response. If the weather is so unpredictable then should I not pre-plan the Kazbegi trip and decide on it once I am in Tblisi? The problem with that is would I be able to find the accomodation last minute at reasonable price. I was hoping to stay at the rooms hotel.

  7. Hi.. One of the most comprehensive blog I have come across while digging up the internet for my upcoming visit. We are planning to spend two nights in July in Kazbegi with our two kids (5 & 3 years old), so trekking is completely off the chart and we are dependent on car accessibility. Now my question is what are the day visits we can cover along with the kids for picturesque views in Kazbegi like waterfalls, villages etc? Will be going to Stepantsminda via Gotrip from Tblisi, so on our way we will cover some of the places as mentioned in the blog.
    Thank you.

  8. Hi Emily, I’m using your website to plan my trip to Georgia in September. I’ll be entering Georgia from Azerbaijan and plan to go from Telavi to Kazbegi without having to go via Tbilisi. I travel alone and hope to do it in a budget-friendly way. I know there won’t be direct marshrutkas between the two places and don’t mind changing marshrutkas. Do you know how I can do it and possibly the timetable of vans and the total time required? Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Anita, thanks for your comment! That is a bit of a tricky one because vans to Kazbegi only really depart from Didube in Tbilisi. You could try doing Telavi-Tianeti, then taking a taxi to Ananauri. But it might be tough to get a spot on a van on the GMH as they often leave Tbilisi full.

    2. Hello Emiliy, thanks for this good informations. I will visit juta in august, do you know the road is open?

      1. In August it will be. But I don’t know the current condition of the road this year and how far you can drive into the valley. Best to check closer to the date.

  9. Hi Emily,

    To hike to the waterfalls you mention, “can both be reached via an easy one-hour-ish hike from the highway” how do you recommend we get to the highway? Should we do it as part of a ge.transfer, walk from town, or are there taxis there to drop/pick you up? Thanks for your help!

  10. Hi Emily, thank you for these detailed guides. I have a query about Gotrip bookings. How much in advance does one need to book for a one-way trip to Kazbegi from Tbilisi with GoTrip.ge?

    Hoping you can help. I’m planing to visit Georgia in May 2024.

    Thank you.

    1. Hi Michelle, you can book a month, a week or a day in advance – it’s totally up to you. There are always drivers available and you will be able to find someone even the night before in May with no issues. Have a wonderful trip!

    2. Having just done this trip, my advice would be to go to gotrip website and have a look first at how the site works. The site gives you a range of drivers you can choose from, check their reviews, and also gives the prices for each driver which will vary, sometimes quite significantly. You choose the driver you want and the itinerary you want and that is the price you will pay on the day in cash.

      As one of the gotrip drivers I used pointed out, the earlier you book the more options you have with prices and choice of drivers. You could probably book up until the day before but your options of drivers might be more limited in May as it gets busier, and you might also end up paying more as a result.

      My advice would be to book as early as you can, and read the reviews about the drivers (I almost booked one driver, but after reading a couple of reviews where his driving style was mentioned, I chose someone else as a result. Georgian driving style matters!).

      Good luck!

  11. Hi Emily, we are going to Georgia this month and are going to rent a car. Thanks for all the tips you shared on this platform, it was really helpful to plan everything. We are planning to visit Kasbegi and Juta. We found out via instagram that the road to Juta has recently been closed to cars. Do you maybe have more information about this? I cannot find anywhere why it is closed and whether it is possible to take a taxi/walk to Juta from the stop. Kind regards, Dannii

    1. Hi Dannii – yes, I heard that the Juta road is closed now due to bad conditions. There were landslides and damage to the road, which made it unsafe for cars. I would recommend avoiding this area for now and perhaps trying Truso instead. Do note that there was some snow and ice up in this area over the weekend.

  12. Hello Emily,

    I am planning to reach Kazbegi using a private rent car. Do you know how it the parking situation there? I am travelling on a budget so if I can avoid paying for a paid parking spot, the better for me.

    Thank you so much in advance!

    Rob

  13. Is it possible to get a cab from Kazbegi to Truso Valley around 8 am, hike for the day, then have the same cab take me back to Tbilisi around 4 pm?

    Thanks

    1. Hi Adam, I don’t see why not. You would just have to tee this up with a driver. I doubt they would wait for you so you might have to set the time or call them at the end of the day. Did you see the Mountain Freaks transfer service? Safe travels!

  14. Hello, we are due in Georgia this week and plan to spend 2 nights in Kazbegi. The weather looks awful all week including thunderstorms. Is there a chance the road will be closed? Thank you

    1. Hi Stacy – hope you still made it! I just came back from Kazbegi this morning and the weather was lovely.

      You never know what the weather will do!!

      Safe travels!

  15. Emily, great write-up. Is there a group trekking option to the top of the mountains. One of my friends was telling me about 7-8 day trek to the peak. Can you suggest any reliable and good group options. Small groups preferred.

  16. Hi Emily. A great blog, so much useful information! I’m planning trip to Georgia and Kazbegi for my birthday in mid April this year. I was wondering what hiking is like around that time. Do you know if many of the higher areas are still inaccessible such as the Gergeti glacier?

      1. We’re arriving in Georgia at the end of March/start of April (2024)

        Is it worth heading up to Kazbegi at all during that time? Just happy to see it and do gentle hikes… Dont need to go too far up.

        1. Hi Sam – it’s always worth it in my opinion! Juta/Truso will be closed, but the church trail should be open. I did the hike once in late March. If you take a look at my trail guide, there is a video and photos to give you an idea of the weather and terrain conditions. Enjoy!

  17. This is so helpful, thanks!
    One thing I didn’t catch in your article but would love to hear about (considering an outdoorsy vacation, something very important) — what is the bug situation like there? Where I live, summer means hordes of mosquitos, gadflies, and blackflies… is the Kazbegi region similarly subject to the scourge?

    1. Hi Katie – great question. I attract mosquitoes and get bitten a lot, but it’s never been an issue for me in Kazbegi. Maybe bring your spray just in case, but it’s nothing to be concerned about!

  18. You have helped me sooooo much with your writing! Thank you! I’m coming for a visit next month!
    One question…..you say to wear a long skirt at Gergeti Trinity Church. Will you please clarify if this means covering knees or to the ground long? Thanks,

    1. Hello Jan, so glad to hear that!

      You just need to cover your knees but the longer the better – there are definitely aprons you can borrow at this church though, so no worries if you wear shorts up then wrap one around your waist before you head in.

      Wishing you a wonderful trip!

  19. Hi Emily, I’m taking a trip to Georgia on my own in a couple of weeks. I would like to stay in guesthouses that are a bit more busy/social. Are there any in kazbegi that you would recommend for this? Thanks!

    1. Hi Jack – that’s a tricky one, Kazbegi is a pretty quiet town and because there are so many guesthouses, it’s normally pretty subdued. Nothing springs to mind for Kazbegi but I will drop back if I think of anything.

      I hear that Zeta Camping nearby in Juta has a social atmosphere and a big garden for summer – you might want to look at spending a few nights there.

  20. You have to try Panorama when you are back in Kazbegi! It’s off season so we had a smaller selection of options but the food at Panorama was diverse and exquisite (even for two vegetarians we had different delicious meals each night)! Kazbegi Good Food was also tasty and thank you for all your tips!

  21. Hi,

    The link for the iVisa is linked to the Azerbaijan page? Different country, no?

    Love your blogs. Thanks so much. Helped me plan my trip so well – can’t wait to get there now!

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