21 Things to Do in Telavi: A Full Guide to My Favourite Spot in Kakheti Wine Region

Discover all the best things to do in Telavi with my detailed city guide. Includes insider travel tips, restaurant and hotel recommendations, and a handy Telavi map.

Set in the foothills of the Gombori Mountains against the backdrop of the Greater Caucasus, bang in the heart of Georgia’s wine country, Telavi is the biggest city and main hub in eastern Kakheti region.

On my first visit to Georgia many moons ago, I spent a couple of nights in Telavi but almost completely dismissed the city, giving preference to the more-charming walled town of Sighnaghi. That was a big mistake.

On my return visit, I gave myself more time to explore Telavi at a slower pace. I was immediately smitten and ended up extending my stay. I have since been back to Kakheti half a dozen times and I always choose to stay in Telavi.

Telavi is my kind of place – and in this guide, I’ll show you why.

When choosing a base in Kakheti for exploring the region’s wineries and monasteries, Telavi has an edge over Sighnaghi in terms of accommodation options and superior transport connections. Where Sighnaghi has developed almost exclusively for the purposes of day trip tourism (there’s nothing wrong with that – it does a great job), Telavi has a more local feel.

Like most of the smaller provincial capitals in Georgia including Gori and Zugdidi, Telavi has the atmosphere of a big village. It embodies everything I love about small cities: It’s walkable, it’s quiet, there’s beautiful architecture around every corner, and best of all there’s a lively undercover market in the centre of town.

Telavi was founded in the Bronze Age but reached its heyday in the 17th century when it regained its status as capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti. It flourished as a centre for culture and religion (and later for pottery and winemaking). It was around this time that Batonis Tsikhe – the monumental stone fortress that still defines the city centre – was built.

Telavi is loaded with history and important landmarks (some call it the ‘most medieval city’ because of the sheer concentration of monuments from different epochs), making it a must-visit in Georgia if you’re even remotely interested in the region’s past.

A full day in Telavi is the perfect amount of time to soak it all up, with some Soviet-era monuments and retro cars thrown in for good measure.

A second day should be set aside to explore the outskirts of Telavi, where some of Kakheti’s most important churches and monasteries are located. These include Alaverdi Monastery, the Ikalto Monastery and Academy, and the old and new Shuamta Monasteries, all within striking distance of the city.

This being Georgia’s premier wine region, Telavi is a good base for visiting vineyards and wine estates, including nearby Tsinandali.

In a way, I’m writing this Telavi guide for my past-self. If I could go back in time and give Telavi the attention it deserves first time around, I would. I hope I can convince you to spend at least a couple of days in Telavi and avoid making the same mistake I did!

Here are 21 wonderful things to do in Telavi, including all the major attractions in the city centre and surrounds, plus everything you need to know to plan a visit.

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Best time to visit Telavi

There’s not really a bad time to visit Kakheti wine region. The only season I recommend avoiding is peak summer, when temperatures soar and spending long periods of time outdoors becomes almost unbearable.

Autumn (late September and October) is the most atmospheric time of year in Kakheti as the Rtveli wine harvest takes place then. But it’s not necessarily the best time to visit: Many of the smaller vineyards close to visitors during this busy period and you can’t just wander in to observe or take part in the harvest. Wineries that offer this experience usually require advance bookings.

Telavi is pleasant in spring, but heavy rain is common. Winter brings mild temperatures, clear skies and crystal clear mountain views. If you’re OK with the landscape looking a bit dry and grey, winter and early spring is probably my favourite time overall to visit Telavi and Kakheti.

How to get to Telavi

Looking for the perfect Telavi day trip from Tbilisi? My partners at Eat This! offer small group tours to Telavi, featuring wine tastings at secret family cellars, a gourmet lunch, and sightseeing around town. Having done this tour (and many others), I firmly believe it is one of the best itineraries out there. Book your tour here and use the promocode WANDERLUSH for a 5% discount.

From Tbilisi: Telavi is located 95 kilometres east of Tbilisi. Travelling via the Gombori Pass, it takes around 2 hours to reach the city by road. Marshrutka vans and shared taxis to Telavi depart daily from Isani and Ortachala. There is no passenger train service to Kakheti at present.

From Sighnaghi: The distance between Telavi and Sighnaghi is 60 kilometres, taking 1.5-2 hours to travel by road. There are infrequent van services between the two centres so it can be more convenient to travel by shared or private taxi.

→ Explore both options in detail in my Tbilisi to Kakheti transport guide.

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Where to stay in Telavi

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How to get around Telavi

Telavi city is very walkable and can be done on foot. If you’re driving, note that free street parking in the centre is plentiful.

For visiting wineries or restaurants that are further afield, you can quite easily use taxis to get around. Bolt app works in Telavi, too.

To visit the monasteries and wineries outside the centre, you’ll need a car. If you didn’t BYO, you can hire a driver for the day. The easiest way to do this is through your guesthouse in Telavi.

Another option is to organise a transfer through GoTrip.ge. This example itinerary I designed hits some of the major wineries and monasteries in the region and includes door-to-door transfers from Telavi. Prices start from a very reasonable 60 USD per car, and you can take as long as you want, making as many stops as you like without the price changing.

→ Design your own itinerary using GoTrip’s Trip Planner.

→ Learn more about GoTrip in my detailed review.

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Things to do in Telavi city

Telavi is a small city on the surface but there are a number of things to see and do. If, like me, you love your architecture, street photography and markets, you’ll have no trouble keeping busy in Telavi.

I recommend setting out on foot for at least 5-6 hours to comfortably cover the attractions listed here.

1. Wander the grounds of Telavi’s Fortress, Batonis Tsikhe

Telavi is built across a gentle hillside with the higher part of the inner city dominated by the ramparts and towers of Batonis Tsikhe. The ‘Master Fortress’ or Prince’s Fortress was reconstructed in the 17th century at the behest of the king atop foundations that date back to the 1660s.

The first part of the castle you encounter is the exterior ramparts and circular towers, all beautifully preserved and studded with ornate gates and arched portals. The main gate has a carved Kakhetian balcony embedded above the doorway.

The design of the fortress is quite fascinating: Persianate in style, it’s modelled on the Arg of Karim Khan in Shiraz, Iran. The complex originally included basilica chapels, bathhouses and a stately palace. A ticket for the Ethnography Museum (next on this list) includes entry to the restored royal residence.

In front of the castle ramparts on the south-west side, a park and viewing platform afford views of the city, the Alazani Valley, and the Greater Caucasus on the horizon.

The statue, a monument to King Erekle II (AKA Heracles II), sword at the ready, stands guard over the lower part of Telavi. From here, you can trace the walls all the way around to the west, following the curve of the main road.

In the past, this served as a cannon tower with artillery at the ready, poised to meet any invaders. It built at the behest of Erekle’s wife, Queen Darejan, who must have had an eye for good views – her palace in Avlabari in Tbilisi is one of the best viewpoints in the city!

2. Visit the Telavi History Museum

I always seem to be in Telavi on a Monday when the museums are closed. On my most recent return trip, I finally managed to visit the local History Museum – and boy was I impressed. It is definitely up there with the best museums in Georgia.

The ultra-modern building is embedded into a hillside within the fortress compound. The exhibition halls are underground.

The museum has two sections: First is a private collection of paintings donated to the city by Telavi resident Ketevan Iashvili. It is truly a phenomenal gallery, with exquisite works by Georgian painters and international artists. I am particularly fond of the canvases by Jemal Khutsishvili who was born in Telavi in 1938. He references daily life and rituals in Kakheti such as the wine harvest and shoti bread-making.

The second part of the museum displays ethnographical objects from Telavi and Kakheti region. A big part of the exhibit is dedicated to textiles – kilim carpets and traditional clothing. I really love the archival photos related to Kakheti’s wine industry and the vintage bottles and qvevri. You can also see fragments of stonework salvaged from important churches in the area.

Entrance to the museum also includes the 17th-century Royal Palace where King Erekle was born in 1720 and died in 1798 (in the very same room, no less). The one-storey palace was specifically designed for the dry, warm Kakheti climate, with open verandas on all sides, high ceilings and tiled floors.

Fully restored to its former glory, it bares a striking resemblance to the Palace of the Sheki Khans in Azerbaijan and the State Academy of Arts in Tbilisi, with Shebeki-style coloured glass windows, decorative stucco and mirror work. Inside the chambers you can see more artefacts from the period.

Take a leisurely walk around the grounds to see the various towers and gates, a school that was established in 1885 and is still functioning today, and a small church. The mountain views from the side of the fortress complex are outstanding.

Details: The Telavi Museum is open from 10am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays; last admission at 5.30pm). Entrance costs 7 GEL for adults, and there is an optional guide service for 18 GEL.

3. Make a pilgrimage to the Giant Plane Tree

A fixture of Telavi for almost a century, the Giant Plane Tree is part of the furniture and a huge source of pride for locals. If you take a tour around Telavi, this is the first place most drivers will bring you, gleefully pointing out the Lada window at the tree’s mammoth trunk and spidery branches that fan out over the rooftops below.

No less than 900 years old and with a circumference of 12 metres, this is no ordinary tree. Rumour has it it’s the oldest living tree in the entire country. Over the centuries, Georgia’s literary and political heroes have all made a pilgrimage to the Giant Plane Tree. You can’t really say you’ve been to Telavi until you pose for a photo standing in the hollow of the trunk.

Plane trees are of course deciduous, so it does lose some of its leafy appeal in the colder months. You can find the tree it in the park directly opposite the King Erekle II monument.

4. See the heritage homes on Erekle II

The architecture in Telavi is some of the finest anywhere in Georgia, and there are several streets where you can find particularly nice examples of Kakhetian carved balconies.

The first is the sloping street just opposite the fortress and monument, where several restored facades sit side by side, their turquoise balcony and white gallery pressed together until red roofs.

A good front-on view of the houses (the aspect pictured at the top of this post) can be found from the park under the plane tree.

For an even better perspective, find the wooden staircase opposite the plane tree – it leads up to a Cultural Centre, where you can walk the balcony for a magnificent vista of the heritage houses and Telavi’s sea of rusted rooftops beyond.

5. Take a self-guided Telavi City Tour with Telaviin

Telaviin is a new initiative in Telavi that makes it easy to explore the city and learn the history behind various homes and monuments. I wish every town in Georgia had this resource!

As you wander around Telavi, look out for black-and-white QR codes mounted on various walls and doorways. When you scan them with your phone, it will bring up an information page in English that reveals the hidden history of the building and the people who once lived there.

It also covers some of Telavi’s lesser-known landmarks, including Batonis Tskaro (the ‘Spring of the Lord’), an 18th-century spring built in the Persian style with Georgian red bricks and restored in 1961 (pictured below). I must have walked past this spring a million times without ever noticing it – I never would have found it otherwise!

Many of the site’s listings are found on Telavi’s main street, Erekle II, which starts from the monument and curves west up the hill towards the tiny Telavisrike River.

You can find some impressive architecture on this stretch: Wooden balconied houses set back from the road dwarfed by monolithic Stalin-style apartment buildings, arched walkways and huge neoclassical corner buildings.

The Vazha-Pshavala State Theatre, built in the 1970s in the late Soviet style, and the Telavi Tourist Information office, housed inside one of the oldest buildings in the city, are also worth seeing.

6. Admire the balconies & brickwork on Cholokashvili Street

When you reach the end of Erekle II, cross the river to reach the start of Cholokashvili Street. This is one of the oldest streets in Telavi known for its heritage homes. Almost every building along the cobblestone lane has been restored, its exquisitely carved balconies stained or painted. 

I spent about an hour walking up and down this street, ducking up a couple of side lanes for different views. There are a couple of creative spaces and eateries where you can stop along the way.

You can also find some beautifully proportioned brick buildings on nearby Nadikvari Street.

7. Shop for local ceramics at Kera

When it was known as a trade city, Telavi was associated with clay pottery, leather-craft and winemaking traditions.

There are a couple of shops along Erekle II that are worth visiting if you’re interested in local handicrafts: Leather crafts “Tella”, a little stall called ‘Georgian Traditional Knitting’, and the lovely Kera pottery shop and studio on Cholokashvili Street.

Ceramicist Lexo and his staff craft hand-painted wine jugs, plates and souvenir ceramics, with everything done right here in the studio. I love his King Erekle II collection that depicts the monarch in his characteristic turban hat.

If you’re interested, Lexo hosts pottery masterclasses at Kera throughout the year. He also sells a small collection of artisanal soaps and other handmade products from Kakhetian makers.

Soon he will be expanding the studio to include a coffee shop and a wine bar – watch this space!

8. Eat lunch at Doli

Also on Cholokashvili Street, Doli is a wine bar and restaurant attached to Communal Hotel. If you’re lucky enough to be staying here, this is your breakfast venue. If not, I highly recommend dropping in for lunch, dinner or a gourmet khoncha sharing plate.

The khinkali at Doli are worth trying. Made mountain-style with beef and thyme, they are wrapped in a thick dough that uses red Doli flour (the endemic Georgian wheat variety that gives the restaurant its name). The strained buffalo yogurt with green adjika and oven-fresh doli bread is perfect for pairing with a bottle of local Kakhetian wine.

As with all Communal Hotels (they also have two properties in Tbilisi), the design of the restaurant and common spaces is impeccable.

Details: Doli is open daily from 1.30pm. More details on their Facebook page.

9. Stop by St. Mariam’s Church

Telavi might be the only city in Georgia where a church doesn’t top the typical list of things to do. You’d be forgiven for completely missing the diminutive St. Mariam’s Orthodox Church – it blends in so well with the other red brick buildings at the start of Cholokashvili Street.

Every time I try to visit, I always find the doors locked – so I can’t attest to the interior. But it’s worth a quick stop if you’re passing by.

10. Walk up to Nadikvari Park for a view

One Telavi attraction you definitely shouldn’t miss is Nadikvari, a hilltop park on the southeastern side of the city.

Like the rest of the Telavi, it’s leafy and green (in summer at least), with a couple of towering trees shading park benches. Walking paths link several monuments, fountains and modern art sculptures. There’s also a restaurant bar, Nadikvari Terrace, and a rather retro amusement park.

The biggest reason to hike up here (and it is a bit of a hike!) is for the views: The park looks directly out over the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus mountains to the west. Several platforms have been constructed but the best panoramas are from the restaurant’s outdoor seating area. This is a great place to grab a drink and watch the sun go down.

There are a couple of roads up to Nadikvari – the easiest walking route is via Nadikvari Street. You’ll pass a couple of interesting pieces of street art and a few more heritage buildings along the way.

11. Get lost in the wonderful Telavi Bazaar

I’m no stranger to a good local market – it’s usually the first place I make a beeline for whenever I arrive in a new city. Telavi’s bazari is known throughout Georgia for both its size and its distinctive design.

The main section of the open-air market is sheltered by a curved roof, with stalls running down parallel rows through the middle. It’s very photogenic, especially when you stand atop the main staircase looking down over the organised chaos.

This market has everything under one roof. Along with fresh fruit and veg, spices, nuts, homemade dairy products and fish, you’ll find a huge section devoted to churchkhela and dried fruits. We picked up a lifetime supply of churchkhela – when they’re this fresh and soft, you can’t help yourself!

You can also find some really delicious adjika blends at this market. I always stock up whenever I visit.

I also enjoyed browning the rows of hardware stores with their treasures sparkling under harsh light bulbs.

Outside, the market continues up and down the surrounding streets with stallholders on all sides selling farm-fresh produce and bottles of foamy Kist and Tush beer.

The market is open daily. Despite it featuring towards the end of this list, I recommend visiting in the morning, from around 10am.

12. Feast on cheese at the incredible Odlisi

Cheese is a big deal in Georgia, especially in Kakheti. Along with wine bars (see below), there are several gourmet cheese bars in and around Telavi. Odlisi is my absolute favourite, and it is conveniently located right in the centre of town on Cholokashvili Street.

Owner Rati Rostomaschvili is a bona-fide fromager, whipping up wheels of hard and semi-soft gourmet cheese infused with wild garlic, nettle, truffle, and 25 other ingredients. Every cheese is aged for a minimum of three weeks – and incredibly the entire process is done here onsite.

The Odlisi adventure started when Rati returned to his native Georgia after four years living in Switzerland, bringing 80 Swiss cows back with him! The cheese bar was his daughter’s idea, and now Khatuna, her sister Mariam and their mother Maka run the venue.

The location inside a 100-year-old school house is very special (ask to see the theatre!), with thoughtful decorations and table settings made to make visitors feel like guests of the family.

Request a tour of the ageing room before sitting down to the most opulent cheese tasting board you ever did see. As well as half a dozen or more of Rati’s different creations, you will try churchkhela, locally made jams and honey, with red and amber wines to accompany.

Out of high season, advance bookings are absolutely essential. In summer, Odlisi has a regular schedule, with additional tables set up in the courtyard. It’s always a good idea to message Odlisi on Facebook or call ahead to reserve a table.

To say this place is beautiful is the understatement of the century. The cheese is divine! This is truly one of the most special food experiences on offer in Georgia, made even better by the family’s warm hospitality.

13. Drink wine, one of my favourite things to do in Telavi

Kakheti is synonymous with wine, and Telavi’s cup is overflowing with cute wine bars and family maranis or cellars where you can drink vino prepared the traditional way in clay qvevri. Many winemakers offer immersive tours where you’ll be walked through the latter stages of the process before tasting the fruits of their labour.

You don’t have to travel far to find good wine in Telavi – there are a number of places within walking distance of the centre where you can get your drink on.

Where to drink wine in Telavi

• Dakishvili Wine & Chocolate: An underground wine and truffle bar-boutique from one of Telavi’s leading winemakers. Walk-ins are welcome and there is plenty of seating. Details here.
• Family Wine Cellar Rostomaant Marani: Wine tastings at a charming family cellar in the heart of the city. Details & reservations here.
• Zurab Kviriashvili Vineyards: Natural qvevri wines. Details & reservations here.

→ See the next section for recommended wineries to visit outside Telavi.

Also read: The best wine bars & wine tastings in Tbilisi.

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Things to do around Telavi

Here are my favourite things to do beyond Telavi’s city limits. To get around the Alazani Valley, I recommend organising a driver for the day through your guesthouse in Telavi or pre-booking a car through GoTrip.ge.

14. Wander the grounds of the historic Tsinandali Estate

The 19th-century estate that once belonged to Georgian poet and military man Alexander Chavchavadze is synonymous with wine history. The first bottle of Kakhetian qvevri wine – a saperavi – was corked here in the European style, marking the start of a new chapter for Georgian vino.

The restored estate grounds feature a sprawling garden and the instantly recognisable Chavchavadze House Museum, a Cultural Heritage Monument. At the back of the property, the Radisson Collection Tsinandali Hotel occupies a number of brick buildings, including Chavchavadze’s old enoteca.

The House Museum is made up of half a dozen rooms filled with antique furniture and accoutrements from the days of the Chavchavadze dynasty. I have visited the museum three times now – it is cute, but for me the real highlights come later.

First, there is the leafy estate garden, which you are free to roam around at will. There is one rather curious item lurking behind the back wall…

Your museum ticket also includes entrance to the enoteca, which is my favourite part of the museum. It’s a bit tricky to find: Walk up behind the house towards the Radisson Hotel and enter the brick building through the glass door on the terrace just after the amphitheatre. There is a desk where staff will greet you and pair you with an English-speaking guide to go down into the basement cellar.

On my most recent visit we had a fabulous guide who gave us a private tour of the enoteca and a collection of historic wine-making equipment. The oldest bottles in the collection date back to 1841 and are purposefully left caked in dust to protect the wine from the light.

Unlike at the House Museum where photography is prohibited, you are welcome to take photos in the enoteca.

Details: The Tsinandali Estate is located 10 kilometres (around 15 minutes by car) east of Telavi. The museum and garden is open from 10am until 6pm daily including on Mondays. Entrance costs 10 GEL. Note that there are multiple entries for Tsinandali on Google Maps – if you are self-driving, aim for this point. There is a parking lot outside the main gate.

15. Be awed by the colossal Alaverdi Monastery

Kakheti’s most visually impressive monastery (in my humble opinion), Alaverdi is the second-tallest religious building in Georgia after Tbilisi’s Sameba Cathedral. Its heavy figure looms on the horizon as you cross the river heading towards the mountains. It’s even more beautiful up close.

The monastery was built in the 11th century on the site of an earlier church established by one of the 13 Assyrian Fathers who played a pivotal role in spreading Orthodox Christianity throughout Georgia. (You might have already heard of another Assyrian monk, David Gareja, who established a famous cave monastery in the region.)

Between the main cathedral building and the surrounding defensive wall there is a palace, an old bath house, a graveyard and a vineyard. Grapes grown here are pressed for wine sold under the Alaverdi Monastery Cellar brand; the label proudly bears the tagline ‘Since 1011’. Natural honey sold under the name Taplikatsi is also produced here – you can see the small apiary at the front of the complex.

Directly across the road from the monastery there is a small shop/restaurant where you can taste these products along with locally made matsoni yogurt.

Details: Alaverdi Cathedral is located 20 kilometres (around 40 minutes by road) northwest of Telavi. The grounds and cathedral are open from 8am until 6pm daily. Try to visit around 9.30am to hear chanting as part of the daily service. Entry is free, and the dress code is strictly enforced (women must borrow an apron skirt from the gift shop before entering). Wine tastings at Alaverdi are tricky to arrange, but you can try requesting one as part of a wine tour.

16. Walk in Shota Rustaveli’s footsteps at the Ikalto Academy

Also founded by one of the Assyrian Fathers, the Ikalto Monastery dates back to the 6th century, making it one of the oldest in Kakheti. It contains three separate church buildings: Khvtaeba, Kvelatsminda and Sameba.

The churches are humble in design and decoration. At the time of my visit, the larger of the trio was undergoing extensive rehabilitation work inside. The grounds here are particularly lovely because they’re scattered with dozens – perhaps hundreds – of clay qvevri in all different sizes and states of mossy decay.

At the rear of the compact grounds you’ll find the ruins of the Ikalto Academy. Founded in 1106, the study halls attracted students whose proclivities ranged from theology and geometry to viticulture and pottery making. Shota Rustaveli, Georgia’s national poet, is said to have studied here in the 12th century.

Details: Ikalto Monastery is located 10 kilometres (20 minutes by road) from Telavi on the way to Alaverdi. Entrance is free.

17. Climb the tower at Gremi

A quick dash across the valley basin to the opposite side of the Alazani Valley leads you to several impressive churches nestled in the foothills of the Caucasus. Though much lower to the ground than Nekresi, Gremi is one of the most interesting historical sites in the entire Kakheti region.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, Gremi served as the capital of the Kingdom before Telavi reclaimed the title. Gremi was a Silk Road trading town with a large marketplace and a royal residence.

The turquoise-crested Church of the Archangels and a three-story palace are the only parts of the complex that survived raids. Inside, the palace bell tower serves as a museum, displaying a number of artefacts unearthed during digs in the area and a set of beguiling portraits of the old Kakhetian kings. You can climb the bell tower all the way to the top for panoramic views of the valley.

Details: Gremi is located 20 kilometres (25 minutes by road) from Telavi on the outskirts of Kvareli. The museum and bell tower are open from 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays). Entrance costs 10 GEL.

If you find yourself on this side of the valley, there are several wineries in the vicinity that are also worth visiting – including Wine Tunnel Khareba in Kvareli and Friends’ Cellar near Nekresi Cathedral.

18. Visit the Old & New Shuamta Monasteries

If I had to pick a favourite monastery in Kakheti, it would be Dzveli Shuamta. It’s one of the oldest churches in Georgia, dating back to the 5th century.

The structure itself is very humble – monastic, you might say – but the setting on wooded Tsivgombori Mountain against a picture-perfect mountain backdrop is beyond breathtaking. In Georgian, Shuamta means ‘among the mountains’, and I love how the tallest peak of the vignette sits just above the highest point of the monastery’s red roof.

Akhali Shuamta – New Shuamta Monastery – is located closer to the highway. The pair are linked by a road and a 2 kilometre walking path through the forest.

Details: The Shuamta Monasteries are located 11 kilometres (20 minutes by road) from Telavi on the way to Tbilisi via the Gombori Pass. Both are open from 9am daily. Entrance is free.

19. Meet Zaza the qvevri maker

Qvevri-building is an art that only a handful of Georgian masters still practice today. Zaza Kbilashvili, who has a workshop and cellar 5km outside of Telavi, is one of the few people making clay qvevri in Eastern Georgia.

Zaza will show you the entire process of building a vessel, from raw material to finished amphora. He does everything – from mixing the clay to firing the qvevri – on site, and truly knows his craft back to front. After the tour you can try his homemade wine and brandy, prepared in his own qvevri of course!

Visits are by appointment only. I was lucky enough to meet Zaza as part of a guided tour with Eat This! Tours, my favourite day trip to Kakheti from Tbilisi.

I have also visited a qvevri workshop in Western Georgia – read my account and see my photos in this post.

20. Gorge on goat’s cheese at Marleta’s Farm

Marleta’s Farm offers one of the most unique and memorable dining experiences in all of Georgia. If you’re visiting Telavi, be sure to call Sopho a few days in advance and reserve a table.

The farm is located on the outskirts of Telavi, a short taxi ride from the centre. Large-scale artworks painted by Sopho’s father, the acclaimed artist Malkhaz Gorgadze, decorate the old sheds that used to be part of a goat and dairy farm. They even have an outdoor pool overlooking the mountains!

There aren’t any animals on the property anymore, but Sopho and her husband continue to source the highest quality milk to create their homemade chèvre.

Each variety of soft and hard cheese is more delicious than the last – be sure to order a tasting board (from 50 GEL per person) or even better, organise a sit-down lunch of Kakhetian delicacies prepared by Marleta’s very talented resident chef.

21. Do a wine tasting at a vineyard near Telavi

In addition to the wine bars and maranis in town that I mentioned above, there are several dozen wineries scattered around Telavi and hundreds more across the Alazani Valley.

Smaller wineries might not be able to accommodate walk-ins so I always recommend calling or messaging ahead to prearrange a visit. Most offer short tours and wine tastings, usually 3-5 glasses depending on the venue, sometimes accompanied by food.

Recommended wineries near Telavi

• Togonidze’s Wine Cellar (Shalauri): 20 minutes from Telavi, this small family cellar offers home-cooked meals, wine tastings and onsite accommodation. Details & reservations here.
• Shalauri Wine Cellar (Shalauri): This mid-sized boutique winery produces qvevri wine exclusively. Tastings are available for 20 GEL. Details & reservations here.
• Mosmieri Wine Centre (Kisiskhevi): Tour the vineyard and extensive cellar at this mid-sized winery before sitting down to a wine degustation or lunch on the veranda. Details here.
• Ruispiri Biodynamic (Ruispiri): All-natural qvevri wines by the bottle, accompanied by local goats’ cheese and veggies from the garden. Details & reservations here.

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Telavi restaurants & cafes

• Doli: Attached to Communal Hotel, Doli is a strong contender for the best restaurant in Telavi. The chef specialises in local Kakhetian fare: BBQ meat, tasty salads, and bread made with Georgian wheat. Details here.
• Badia: A favourite for amazing views and quality Georgian fare. Details here.
• Zodiaqo: Often named as the best khinkali restaurant in Georgia, Zodiaqo is a must-try for all dumpling addicts. They also have a branch in Tbilisi. Details here.
• Bravo: Generous portions of classic Georgian fare and local wine. The outdoor terrace here is a favourite. Breakfast is served every morning. Details here.
• Cafe Gisheri: This central cafe opposite the fortress is perfect for breakfast or a quick bite. Coffee, cakes and light meals are available from 9am. If you need WIFI and a place to work, this is an ideal place to set up for a couple of hours. Details here.
• Biblus Piatto: This cute bookstore-cafe overlooks the river in the centre of the city and is a great place for breakfast for coffee and cake. Details here.
• Kapiloni: A local favourite, this restaurant serves typical Georgian cuisine in a beautiful leafy courtyard. Details here.
• Hotel Tela Terrace & Restaurant: Light meals, coffee, cocktails and local wine served on a rooftop terrace with amazing mountain views. Details here.
• Apsaiti: Another favourite for khinkali in Telavi, served with craft beer in a tavern-style dining room. Details here.

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Telavi map

Click here to view and download a copy of my Telavi travel map, featuring all the above points of interest, vineyards and restaurants.

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More city guides for Georgia

• Things to do in Tbilisi
• Things to do in Kutaisi
• Things to do in Batumi
• Things to do in Gori
• Things to do in Zugdidi
• Things to do in Ozurgeti & Guria

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