12 Things to Know Before Visiting Georgia for Orthodox Easter

Everything you need to know about Easter in Georgia – including special Easter traditions and essential travel tips.

Orthodox Easter (called Aghdgoma in Georgian) might be the most auspicious event on Georgia’s religious calendar. But if you didn’t know it was Easter, you might not even realise it was a holiday.

That’s because Easter is primarily a family event, more subdued, reverent and private compared to the raucous celebrations that are typical of Georgia at Christmas time.

In Georgia, the lead-up to Easter is marked by 40 days of fasting. Holy Week sees several beautiful rituals performed across the country, culminating with midnight mass on Saturday/Sunday.

The following day, it is traditional to pay respect to one’s deceased family members and ancestors by visiting their graves. Easter also involves eating special foods and greeting one another in a particular way.

Beyond being a religious holiday, Easter is the harbinger of spring and signifies rebirth and renewal. All in all, it’s a beautiful time of year to visit the country.

Whether you’re planning a special trip to Tbilisi to experience Georgia’s Easter traditions or you’ve discovered your travel dates overlap with Easter by accident, this guide is designed to answer your questions and help you experience Easter like a local.

First, I will briefly introduce Easter traditions in Georgia before addressing 12 practical FAQs.

Also see:

• 19 things to do in Georgia in spring
• Special things to do in Tbilisi in spring
• Where to see wildflowers in Georgia

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When is Easter in Georgia? Key dates & traditions for 2024

First and foremost, keep in mind that Orthodox Easter always falls after Roman Catholic Easter. It is a moveable feast and may occur anywhere between April 4 and May 8.

The exact date of Easter Sunday is determined by the vernal or spring equinox. In 2024, Orthodox Easter Sunday falls on May 5. In 2025, Easter Sunday is April 20, and in 2026, it will be on April 12.

Here are the key dates for Georgian Easter 2024:

• April 28: Palm Sunday
• May 2: Holy Thursday
• May 3: Red Friday (National Holiday)
• May 4: Holy Saturday (National Holiday)
• May 5: Easter Sunday (National Holiday)
• May 6: Bright Monday (National Holiday)
• May 7, 8, 9 & 10: Additional National Holidays in Georgia (official days off)

Palm Sunday (Bzoba)

As in the Catholic tradition, the Sunday before Easter marks the official start of the Orthodox Holy Week. Like many of you, I know this day as Palm Sunday. In Georgia, it has a different name.

Palm trees are not as common here, especially in the east of the country. Another type of evergreen, bza (boxwood), has become synonymous with Easter. Thus Palm Sunday is known as Bzoba or ‘the day of boxwood’.

Clippings of boxwood are displayed inside the church and at home to commemorate Christ’s entry into Jerusalem (this is also a tradition in Poland, where boxwood is known as bukszpan).

Branches and cuttings are sold in front of churches and at markets all over the country, and you will see people strolling around with armfuls of greenery and little woven baskets stuffed with green leaves.

On Palm Sunday, it’s traditional to take your branches to the church and have it blessed with Holy Water by the priest. If you’re walking down Rustaveli Avenue on Bzoba, pop into the Kashueti churchyard to see a mass blessing ritual taking place.

Holy Thursday (Chiakokonoba)

Several important rites take place on Holy Thursday or Maundy Thursday, including pedilavium, the washing of the feet. One place you can observe this Easter rite is Sameba Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. It takes place immediately after morning mass.

The head of the Orthodox Church, the Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia, kneels before 12 bishops and washes their feet, just as Jesus washed the feet of the Twelve Disciples during the last supper.

Maundy Thursday is also the day of Chiakokonoba. Not unlike the Nowruz tradition of Chaharshanbeh Suri, Chiakokoboba (or Phakloba) involves lighting up a bonfire that people jump over and dance around. This ritual is believed to counteract evil spirits and have a purifying effect.

In the past, Chiakokonoba was observed all over Georgia, including in Svaneti, Samegrelo, Kartli, Imereti and Guria. Today it is very rarely practised, but you might get lucky and see a group of children leaping over the flames in a rural village.

Tsiteli Paraskevi (Red Friday)

In Georgia, Good Friday is called Tsiteli Paraskevi or ‘Red Friday’. This is a reference to the main ritual of the day, dyeing chicken’s eggs a scarlet colour.

Red eggs symbolise the rebirth of Christ and eternal life. As the story goes, Mary Magdalene was carrying a basket of eggs when she went to proclaim to the Roman Emperor that Jesus had risen. In disbelief, he replied that that was about as likely as the eggs in her basket turning red before his eyes. The eggs promptly turned a shade of blood-red.

On Red Friday, Georgian families get together to dye eggs at home in the kitchen. This should be done during the daylight hours before sunset. I’m told that kids are particularly fond of this hands-on Easter activity.

Traditionally the colour is achieved with endro or madder root, which is boiled up in a big stock pot. You will see bundles of these little brown sticks tied together with ribbon and sold at markets. Some people also add onion skins to brighten the colour. I have also seen synthetic dyes for sale at some street markets.

Unlike in other Orthodox countries such as Romania, the eggs are not decorated with wax patterns, but rather they are dyed in a uniform colour.

Wheatgrass (jejili) is also synonymous with Easter in Georgia, symbolising growth and renewal. Those who grow wheatgrass at home start the process on Bzoba by sprinkling seeds onto a piece of wet cotton. Premade wheatgrass is also sold at markets.

Once the boiled eggs are ready, they are displayed on the table or in a special basket along with a little bed of wheatgrass. In preparation for Easter Sunday, households also start preparing Easter foods including paska cake, a traditional hill-shaped butter cake that is very dense and flavoured with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and raisins.

On Friday afternoon, churches hold a special service in commemoration of the Deposition of the Body of Lord Jesus Christ from the Cross. I think this is a version of the Stations of the Cross.

Out of respect for the crucifixion, most people abstain from alcohol on Red Friday. Drinking is allowed on Easter Sunday and Monday, as you will see!

Holy Saturday

On Holy Saturday, people mark the miraculous appearance of the Holy Fire in Jerusalem. This is done via the ritual of Litonioba, an overnight church service that starts at midnight on Saturday and continues until the early hours of Easter Sunday.

After the Holy Fire ceremony takes place at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, a lit torch is transported from Tel Aviv to Tbilisi on a Georgian Airways flight. When it arrives, it is taken to several churches around the country. This delivery of the Holy Fire has taken place every year since 1995.

All major churches across the country hold an Easter Pascha or Litonioba service (later, I will highlight a few particular churches that are great to attend).

Georgian families either attend the service in person or stay at home to watch the Holy Fire ceremony broadcast live on TV.

Easter Sunday

Easter Sunday is of course the day that Christ rose from the dead. People wake up at home after Litonioba and observe a couple of special rituals.

First is cracking the red eggs. There is a bit of competition involved between family members here – whoever chooses the strongest eggs from the batch wins.

You tap your egg against your partner’s (this reminds me a bit of pulling a Christmas cracker). Whoever’s egg cracks first loses that round, and whoever ends up with the least amount of broken eggs is declared the winner.

Most families hold a supra feast at home on Sunday.

Bright Monday

The day after Easter Sunday is known as Bright Monday. On this day, families travel to the cemetery to pay their respects to deceased loved ones and the ancestors. People who live in the city might travel back to their village for the occasion, leaving the streets of Tbilisi eerily empty. Some people do this a day earlier on the Sunday to try and beat the traffic.

This is not a sombre affair – it is quite joyous. Upon arriving at the graveyard, people first light candles, then roll a red egg across the grave three times as a symbolic re-enactment of turning the stone away from Christ’s tomb.

Then they will set up a mini supra feast at the graveside. Everyone is eating together – this is a moment of reuniting with the dead – so a small amount of wine is poured onto the grave for the deceased person. This tradition is called ‘knocking over the goblet’.

This custom goes back to Soviet times when most churches were closed and Easter services were forbidden. Just as December 31 became a proxy for Christmas, the graveyard became a substitute venue to pray at Easter time.

Tip: If you want to learn more about the Orthodox Christian faith, I highly recommend the website The Georgian Church for English Speakers. It has not been updated in a while, but there are tons of great archived articles about feast days, traditions, liturgical chanting, fasting, and other topics.

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12 things to know when visiting Georgia at Easter

Orthodox Easter involves a number of fascinating traditions and rituals. But is it a good idea to visit Georgia over Easter?

Here are the 12 FAQs that people often ask me.

1. Does everything shut down for Orthodox Easter?

Understandably this is a concern for many people. But the answer is no, Georgia does not completely shut down over Easter.

There are four National Holidays over Easter (May 3, 4, 5 and 6). In 2024, there are additional holidays on May 7, 8 and 10. May 9 is Victory Day (also a holiday) – thus this year, there are 8 days off in total from May 3-10, 2024.

Banks, national museums and heritage sites will be closed on these days. Normally Vardzia remains open on Easter Sunday for people to attend mass.

Some smaller, family run restaurants, cafes and shops might close on the Friday, Sunday and/or Monday as well. Supermarkets might have shorter hours. But most bigger venues remain open. This includes restaurants, markets and pharmacies.

2. Is there public transport over Easter?

In Tbilisi and the other cities, public transport runs throughout the holidays. There might be a reduced schedule during the day, but usually there are extended hours/extra services to accommodate those travelling for church services.

Typically the metro in Tbilisi runs until 4am on Easter Sunday so people can get back home from church. On Easter Sunday and Monday, buses that go to the cemeteries around Tbilisi are free.

As many people take time off work for the holidays, taxis are a little harder to come by. You might have to wait a bit longer when ordering a taxi in Tbilisi.

Trains in Georgia run as normal, but intercity marshrutka vans might operate on a reduced schedule. If you’re planning to travel over Easter, particularly on the Sunday or Monday, it’s important to plan ahead. Check schedules in advance and consider using a transfer service such as GoTrip instead.

Also be aware that traffic can be heavier than normal during Holy Week as people leave Tbilisi to travel to the villages, and on Easter Monday as people return. The worst traffic congestion is definitely on the main east-west Rikoti Highway.

3. Do people fast before Easter? Will restaurants still be open?

Devout Christians fast for 40 days before Easter. This is nothing like a Ramadan-style fast, though – the Orthodox version of fasting is closer to the Lenten Fast. But not exactly.

In Georgia, people still eat normal portions at regular mealtimes, only they abstain from animal products – i.e. meat, fish, dairy and eggs. Honey is permitted. (On Red Friday, some people fast for the entire day, only consuming water and bread.)

The ubiquitousness of fasting (there are four fasts every year) is one of the reasons why so many Georgian dishes are vegetarian or vegan by nature.

Restaurant opening hours are normal over Easter, and alcohol is still served at bars and sold in shops, including on Red Friday. Not everyone fasts, so of course meat is still available.

4. Where is the best place to go for Orthodox Easter in Georgia?

Tbilisi is the obvious choice as the capital is the main venue in Georgia for the Easter Liturgy. Mtskheta is also a good choice for Easter Saturday – attending Litonioba at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral would be a wonderful experience.

My favourite place to spend Easter is Guria in Western Georgia. This region has a few special Easter traditions you can’t find anywhere else, most notably the Lelo Burti festival, which takes place every Easter Sunday.

Lelo Burti is a 300-year-old rugby-like ball sport. In one village, Shukhuti, there is a huge match that pits hundreds of players against each other. It’s an amazing spectacle.

5. Can I attend the Easter Liturgy?

One of the easiest ways to get involved with Easter celebrations is by attending the Easter Liturgy, Litonioba. It takes place in all major churches around the country, including in small towns and rural villages.

Anyone is welcome to attend the service, no matter your creed. Personally I think it is a beautiful experience and something that’s very much worth staying up late for.

In 2022, I attended Litonioba in Ozurgeti in Guria and in 2024, I attended mass in Kutaisi. Here are a few things I noticed that are good to keep in mind:

• The service starts at midnight on the Saturday evening.
• There is always a small crowd gathered in the churchyard to listen to the service broadcast over speakers. I highly recommend standing outside because there is more space to breathe, and it is easier to excuse yourself early.
• Most people hold votive candles for the duration of the liturgy. Purchase a few from the church shop during the day on Saturday and bring them with you. But don’t bring a lighter – it’s a lovely experience to light your candle from someone else’s and then to share the Holy Fire around with others.
• Be sure to dress appropriately: Long sleeves plus a long skirt or dress for women and long pants for men. (Most women tend to wear a skirt/dress for the service rather than pants.) Women should cover their hair with a scarf, even when standing outside. Darker colours are preferred. Dress warmly.
• Litonioba is a long service – normally it runs until 2 or 3am. It’s perfectly fine to leave early if you want to. The first 20-30 minutes of the service are the most ceremonial and interesting.
• At midnight, the church bells will start to ring. This goes on for a full 10-15 minutes as parishioners light their candles and walk around the perimeter of the church three times for the Procession of the Cross. This is a very beautiful ritual to participate in as people greet each other, chant and sing as they walk.
• If you are not a member of the Orthodox Church, you should not partake in Communion.
• The service is all in Georgian, but there is some liturgical chanting.

6. Which church in Tbilisi should I go to?

There are three churches in Tbilisi that are noted for their Litonioba service:

1. Sameba Cathedral. As Tbilisi’s biggest church, Sameba naturally has the most significant celebrations. The arrival of the Holy Fire from Jerusalem is a big moment. Many people dress in national costume for the occasion. Another good thing about Sameba is that there’s plenty of standing room inside.

2. Anchiskhati Basilica. The oldest surviving Orthodox church in Tbilisi, Anchiskhati has a very famous choir who perform exquisite chanting during the service. It’s a tiny church, so you will likely have to stand outside – but the advantage is that you don’t have far to go when it comes time to walk around the church.

3. ​​St. George English Language Eastern Orthodox Church. This church is located in Dighomi, quite far from the centre, but it’s the only one I know of that performs the Easter Liturgy in English. Events are listed on their Facebook Page.

If you’re not in Georgia for Holy Saturday but you still want to attend church, there are additional services on Lazarus Saturday and Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, and Red Friday.

7. How can I participate in other traditions?

In the Soviet era, the tradition of dyeing eggs was performed in secret. People had to exercise caution: As a friend once told me, showing up to work or school on Monday with a hint of red dye on your fingertips could land you in serious trouble.

Of course this is no longer the case, but still most families still do their egg dyeing at home. If you’re staying at a guesthouse or an Airbnb, you might be invited to participate.

If you want to be a fly on the wall for the ritual of communing with the dead, then feel free to show up at the nearest cemetery on Monday morning.

Last year, I visited a cemetery in Guria. There were dozens of people gathered for the occasion and all of them greeted us warmly. One family even invited us over to eat and drink with them.

Be respectful and ask for permission before taking photos.

8. Where can I buy a paska cake?

Paska is a dense fruit cake that is traditionally prepared and eaten at Easter time. The best ones are always homemade, but you can find decent versions sold at bakeries and supermarkets everywhere.

The best pre-made paska I’ve found is from Entree. Normally they sell small single-serve versions along with giant paskas made for sharing. Bazari Orbeliani normally holds a special market where multiple vendors sell home-style paska cakes.

Personally I find paska really, really dry. Last year I turned mine into a bread and butter pudding. Georgians might find this sacrilegious, but it was delicious!

9. What other special foods should I eat at Easter?

There are two more Easter dishes you should look out for. The first is chakapuli, a fragrant stew made with lamb (or sometimes with beef), sour green plums, dry white wine, and loads of tarragon. This dish is the harbinger of spring and for many Georgians, it wouldn’t be Easter without it.

Again, homemade is best, but many restaurants serve it around Easter time and throughout the year. Chakapuli has its roots in Kakheti region so you can either try it there, or at one of the Kakhetian specialty restaurants in Tbilisi (my favourite is Kakhelebi).

Living Vino creates a special vegan chakapuli with mushrooms.

The other dish is Gurian khachapuri, a regional version of the famous ‘cheese bread’ that is more like a calzone. It is crescent-shaped and stuffed with cheese and hard-boiled egg. I first tried it at Komli in Guria.

10. Can I buy chocolate Easter eggs in Georgia?

Georgians love their chocolate, but the phenomenon of chocolate Easter eggs is not really a thing here. Some supermarkets sell packets of small candied eggs and specialty grocers might have imported sweets. But that’s about it.

If you’re travelling with kids who have grown accustomed to an annual Easter Egg Hunt, then you should bring supplies with you from home.

11. Does Georgia celebrate Roman Catholic Easter?

Georgia is predominantly an Orthodox Christian nation, thus Easter is celebrated according to the Julian calendar. As mentioned above, Orthodox Easter has some parallels to Roman Catholic Easter, but there are many rituals and traditions that are particular to Eastern Orthodoxy and to Georgia.

Having said that, there are Catholic churches in many cities throughout Georgia and all of them stage services (often in English) around the dates of Roman Catholic Easter. In Tbilisi, there is St. Peter and Paul Apostles’ Church, in Batumi, the Church of the Holy Spirit, and in Kutaisi, the Church of the Immaculate Conception.

12. How can I wish someone a Happy Easter in Georgian?

On Easter Sunday and Monday, you don’t greet someone the normal way by saying gamarjoba – instead, you say Kriste agdga (kr-is-tey ag-d-ga) which means ‘Christ has risen’.

If someone says Kriste agdga to you first, reply with Cheshmaritad (chesh-mar-ee-tad) which means ‘indeed he has’.

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Final words: Is it a good idea to visit Georgia during Easter?

There is no reason to avoid visiting Georgia during Orthodox Easter. While it’s important to remember that some things, including museums, will be closed for the four days of national holidays, in my opinion there are many more pluses than minuses.

Easter is a great opportunity to observe and participate in special traditions. Spring is a joyous time in Georgia, when the streets are filled with fresh cut flowers and the mountains start to blossom with wild blooms.

Plan your travel logistics in advance, but focus on the special things you can see and do rather than what you will potentially miss out on.

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Easter FAQ

Is Easter a Georgia holiday?

Yes, Easter is an official holiday or national day in Georgia. There are four days off for Easter: Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday. In 2024, the dates are May 3-6 with extended holidays until May 10.

How do people celebrate Easter in Georgia?

People in Georgia celebrate Easter by dyeing eggs red and displaying them with wheatgrass at home, attending Litonioba, a special Easter church service, and visiting the cemetery to pay their respects to the dead. These are all family oriented traditions.

What do Georgian Orthodox eat on Easter?

Easter marks the end of 40 days of fasting, thus people are allowed to eat anything on Easter Sunday. Special Easter foods include paska, a dry fruit cake, and chakapuli, a stew of lamb, sour plum and tarragon.

Can you buy alcohol on Easter in Georgia?

Yes, you can buy alcohol as normal during Easter, including from shops, bars and restaurants. Drinking is an important part of supra feasts on Easter Sunday and Monday. Many people choose not to drink on Red Friday (the Friday before Easter Sunday).

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