An insider’s Kutaisi winter travel guide – including the best things to do when the mercury drops, Christmas and New Years events, the best winter day trips, and more.
One of the things I most love about living in Georgia is getting to experience all four seasons to the fullest. While autumn is definitely my favourite time of year in Georgia, winter – especially the first weeks of winter – is a close second.
Winter in Kutaisi, my current home, is a different experience to spending winter in Tbilisi, the capital. On the heels of my third Kutaisi winter, I have decided to offer my insider travel tips and round-up my favourite things to do in the winter months.
- Looking for the best things to do in Kutaisi in any season? Don’t miss my comprehensive Kutaisi City Guide and itinerary.
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Why visit Kutaisi in winter?
Kutaisi is an ideal winter destination in Georgia – either as a short city break, or as a gateway to the mountains and ski resort in Svaneti. The weather is pleasant – it rarely gets too cold – yet there is always a reliable source of snow nearby (and even a chance to see snow in the city, if your timing is right).
As well as Orthodox Christmas traditions and New Year celebrations, winter brings several cultural events and wine festivals to the city.
Visiting Kutaisi city in winter doesn’t mean you’ll miss out on much: All businesses stay open throughout the winter season, including restaurants, bars and museums.
Flights to Kutaisi run year-round as well.
The monasteries near Kutaisi continue to receive visitors, and most natural monuments including the caves and canyons stay open throughout the winter.
While majority of Georgia’s mountain hiking routes are inaccessible in winter, the road to Mestia remains open, and it is still possible to visit Svaneti from Kutaisi.
What is the best month to visit Kutaisi in winter?
Kutaisi is located in Western Georgia where the climate is quite different from the east. Because of its proximity to the Black Sea Coast, subtropical climate and higher humidity, winter arrives a little later in Kutaisi compared with Tbilisi.
- Also read: The best things to do in Tbilisi in winter.
Kutaisi in December
Oftentimes December in Kutaisi feels like a continuation of autumn. Temperatures remain mild, and it is generally quite dry. Certainly you can still find gorgeous fall foliage around the city and beyond (especially in Tskaltubo) right through until the middle of December. The two photos below were taken on the first weekend of December near Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi (left) and Tskaltubo (right).
In my experience, it doesn’t get seriously cold until the second or third week of December. For example, I usually get my big winter coat out in mid December (up until that point, a warm jacket will do). Last year, I didn’t turn the heating at my apartment on until after Christmas!
2023 has been a bit different: November saw a cold snap, and so far December has been colder and wetter than ‘normal’. That means lots of snow in the mountains, but lots of rain for Kutaisi unfortunately.
Events & important dates in December
- December 2: AMERIMERI Natural Wine Festival (Tskaltubo)
- December 3: Gamopena Wine Festival (Kutaisi)
- December 31: New Year’s Eve
Kutaisi in January
January brings frosty mornings and brisk evenings to Kutaisi, with brilliant blue skies in between. It still warms up during the day, making January suitable for short winter-appropriate hikes and other outdoor activities.
This month has lots of public holidays when museums and other sites are closed, so keep this in mind when planning your trip. Some smaller businesses including cafes take their holidays between January 1 and 7/14.
Events & important dates in January
- January 1: New Year’s Day 1 (Mekvleloba) – public holiday
- January 2: New Year’s Day 2 (Bedoba) – public holiday
- January 7: Orthodox Christmas Day (inc. the Alilo Parade) – public holiday
- January 14: Orthodox New Year
- January 19: Orthodox Epiphany – public holiday
Kutaisi in February
February is the coldest month of the year in Kutaisi. The temperature drops, the skies turn grey, and the days are very short.
The relatively high humidity in Kutaisi makes it feel even colder than it is – a big difference to Tbilisi, which experiences dry winters.
I normally try to travel in February or just bunker down at home to work. Visiting Kutaisi in February is fine for a short city stopover before heading to the ski fields, but I don’t necessarily recommend it for a longer trip.
Does it snow in Kutaisi?
As you can see from the photos above – yes!
Snow in Georgia’s lowlands used to be a sure thing. However, summer and autumn are more prolonged these days and there is no longer a guarantee of seeing snow in the cities.
In 2022/23, winter was so late to arrive that most of the country’s ski resorts were not fully operational until late January. So far winter 2023/24 is looking more promising – there was already decent snowfall in November.
Significant snow in Tbilisi has become a rarity. Compared to the capital, I think there is a better chance of getting snow in Kutaisi. For the two winters I have been here, there have been several days of flurries and even snow in late spring, dusting the emerging bulbs of the famous magnolia tree with powder.
Unlike in Tbilisi, the snow seems to stick around for longer on the ground and trees… And on the sculptures around town!
In the winter of 2021/22, there were snowy days from December 23 until Christmas. It snowed again on January 17, and again in mid-March.
In the winter of 2022/23, there was one spell of very heavy snow between February 13-17.
Is Kutaisi a good place for New Year’s Eve?
December 31 is the biggest night of the Christmas/New Year period in Georgia, surpassing even Orthodox Christmas Day. Kutaisi is a much smaller city so you’ll find it is a lot quieter here compared to Tbilisi.
There are still parties, dinners and other events, some of which cater to the expat community, and of course you will be able to see an amazing fireworks display that comes to a crescendo at midnight.
In the days leading up to December 31, Kutaisi hosts its own Christmas market and festive light displays. There is always a giant Christmas tree set up in front of the theatre.
On December 25, there is normally a Catholic Christmas event with an orchestral performance and a food market hosted by the local tourism office.
And on Orthodox Christmas Day (January 7), you can enjoy the unique experience of participating in Kutaisi’s Alilo Parade.
12 things to do in Kutaisi in winter
1. Check out the Kutaisi Christmas markets & light displays
Kutaisi lights up from the middle of December with string lights and illuminated decorations. The display is concentrated around Central Park and reaches out into the surrounding streets.
The White Bridge is decorated with giant hanging lanterns (if it’s snowing, take extra care not to slip on the bridge’s perspex panels!), and lamp posts around the Royal District are wrapped in bulbs.
The highpoint of the show is the giant Christmas tree that is erected on the main square, in front of the theatre.
Normally the lights keep shining all the way through the season until Orthodox Epiphany on January 19.
2. Discover snowy landscapes on a winter hike between Motsameta & Gelati
Even if it’s not snowing in the city, there are plenty of opportunities to see picture-perfect, powder-dusted landscapes around Kutaisi.
Snow starts falling in Svaneti as early as mid-October and continues through the winter. Splendid winter landscapes can be found in mountainous Imereti, Racha region, and closer to the centre in the foothills.
Gelati Monastery, one of Georgia’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is located nine kilometres from Kutaisi and is a must-see when you’re in the area. Its turquoise roof looks incredible when shrouded in a white blanket – and because of its higher elevation, you might find there is snow here when it’s raining in Kutaisi.
Make the most of it by hiking from Gelati to the second monastery at Motsameta via the railway tracks. Just be sure to come prepared with waterproof shoes and proper winter hiking gear.
If you prefer to go by road, there are marshrutka vans to Gelati from Kutaisi centre, and taxis can be booked via Bolt.
If you want to visit with a guide and private transport, Budget Georgia continue their Gelati-Motsameta-Bagrati excursion every day throughout winter. Mention Wander-Lush when you book the tour to get 10% off.
3. Eat lunch by the fireplace at Agro Guest House Korena
A meal at Agro Guest House Korena is one of my favourite Kutaisi foodie experiences. This family-run business in Motsameta village offers lunch and dinner to walk-in guests, and even culinary masterclasses.
Diners sit in an old-style Imeretian cottage in front of an open fireplace. The cuisine here is very apropos for winter – one of the local food traditions is cooking directly in the fire, using clay ketsi pans heated up on the coals then stacked on the hearth. This technique is used to prepare mchadi cornbread, mushrooms topped with cheese, village chicken with walnut sauce, and a range of other local specialty dishes.
A private home-cooked meal at Guest House Korena costs 100 GEL per person. Bookings are essential – contact Maia on Facebook to pre-arrange your visit. The house is close to Gelati so you can easily walk up to the monastery after your meal.
You might even get to meet the resident chef, Grandma Dali, who became a Kutaisi celebrity when a giant image of her preparing Imeretian Khachapuri was painted in 2023! You will surely come across the mural as you’re wandering downtown Kutaisi – see #8 on this list for more street art treasures.
4. Take a winter day trip to the caves & canyons
Martvili Canyon 50 kilometres from Kutaisi averages a balmy 15 degrees year-round with 98% humidity. Unless there is snow, the forested canyon remains verdantly green throughout December and January.
Martvili Canyon, Okatse Canyon, Kinchkha Waterfall, Prometheus Cave and Sataplia Cave are all open year-round.
Note that Okatse might be closed if there is frost (this is a safety issue as the boardwalks become slippery), and the boat ride at Prometheus Cave might not be offered if the water levels are too low.
Budget Georgia organises winter day trips from Kutaisi throughout the low season. The Canyons and Caves itinerary includes Martvili, Prometheus and Okatse. I participated in the tour last winter: Read my full and honest write-up here.
If you’d rather see snow, there is a day trip to Borjomi and Bakuriani with regular departures from Kutaisi in winter. I also highly recommend visiting Vardzia in winter – the cave system looks wonderful in the snow.
Mention Wander-Lush to save 10% off your booking on these winter day trips or any of Budget Georgia’s other programs.
Find more ideas for winter adventures in my guide to the best Kutaisi day trips.
5. Warm up at a natural hot spring near Kutaisi
Soaking in the Tbilisi sulfur baths is the perfect winter activity. While there are no thermal spas in Kutaisi city, you will find natural thermal waters and sulfur springs nearby, including at Sairme, Nokalakevi and Tskaltubo.
One of my personal favourites, the Vani Sulfur Geyser, is easy to reach from Kutaisi and can be combined with a visit to the wonderful Vani Archaeological Museum.
6. Peruse winter produce at the Green Bazaar
The Kutaisi Green Bazaar is one of Georgia’s most colourful and interesting farmers’ markets. In winter, you won’t see as many bundles of verdant herbs that give the Green Bazaar its name. But the market is still incredibly photogenic.
Winter welcomes pumpkins of every shape, colour and size, massive hauls of carrots and apples, mandarins and lemons, and of course bottles of homemade wine courtesy of the autumn harvest.
You will also find dried chillies and marigold flowers, nuts, and the usual array of jams, pickles and preserves.
In the lead up to Christmas and New Year, you will see popular winter provisions such as churchkhela and dried hurma persimmons (above left). And outside the bazaar, beautifully decorated Georgian Christmas trees called chichilaki (above right).
The Green Bazaar is open every day. For the best variety and liveliest atmosphere, visit on a Saturday or Sunday in the mid-morning (from around 10am).
7. Hop between Kutaisi’s cute museums
Kutaisi has a few indoor activities for those winter days when the weather is gloomy. I am very fond of the city’s small and quirky museums.
The State Historical Museum is the main institution – it’s worth a visit if you can go with a guide (English-language guiding services are available). Other museums in Kutaisi include the National Museum of Military Glory, the Museum of Georgian Sports, the Zakaria Paliashvili House Museum, and my personal favourite, the quaint Photo-cinema Chronicle Museum.
The David Kakabadze Gallery near the opera house showcases works by the iconic Kutaisi-born painter. Don’t miss the assemblage of forgotten Soviet-era sculptures in the courtyard.
8. Search for street art
Traditionally it has always been Tbilisi and Batumi that are known for their street art scenes. In 2022 and 2023, Kutaisi hosted a couple of street art festivals and received some incredible new murals, putting it firmly on the urban art trail.
The most famous is definitely ‘Bebia Dali’ by Sasha Korban, that depicts grandma Dali from Agro Guest House Korena (see above, #3) busy at work in the kitchen.
The Kutaisi International University campus south of Kutaisi is decorated with incredible large-scale murals. It is closed to the public, but you can view many of the pieces from outside the fence. To get there, take city bus 3 from the Colchis Fountain.
9. Cosy up at a cute cafe
One thing Kutaisi does have a reputation for is its cute cafes. Cosy and vintagey, they are the perfect retreat in winter.
Tea House Foe-Foe is one of the most popular, with its frilly tablecloths, mismatched crockery, and artwork by Petre Otskaneli decorating the walls. They have a huge variety of black, green and herbal teas by the pot, and after hours, tea-based cocktail infusions.
If you want to up the caffeine, I recommend dashing across the road to Piatto, a corner cafe inside a beautiful heritage building that serves the best coffee in Kutaisi.
Lilestan restaurant hosts a pop-up winter cabin in its little courtyard, serving hot chocolate with marshmallows and mulled wine.
10. Taste Imeretian wine at the AMERIMERI Natural Wine Festival
Now in its seventh year running, AMERIMERI is an annual wine festival held in Tskaltubo near Kutaisi. Hosted by the Natural Wine Association, it brings together vintners from all over Georgia who specialise in organic and low-intervention wines. In 2023, it was mostly Kakhetian wineries on show.
The all-you-can-drink extravaganza costs 20 GEL per person plus 10 GEL for a wine glass (you’ll be needing that for your bottomless tastings). I highly recommend spending the night at the venue, Legends Tskaltubo Resort – a partially restored Soviet-era sanatorium.
In 2023, there was a second wine festival called Gamopena held in Kutaisi the day after AMERIMERI. It focused on local Imeretian wines, with some of my favourite wineries near Kutaisi represented. It was a big success – let’s hope it returns next year so that Kutaisi can celebrate a ‘Wine Weekend’ every winter!
If your visit doesn’t coincide with the festivals, there is an outstanding wine bar in Kutaisi called Winetage where you can sample local vino, including rare grape varieties.
11. Ring in the New Year in Kutaisi
New Year’s Eve, December 31, is one of the biggest nights on Georgia’s calendar. Like many of the former Soviet Republics, Georgians deferred religious celebrations to the secular date when it was part of the USSR – and this tradition has stuck.
There are always a few private parties and special events held in Kutaisi, but the best way to ring in the new year is by joining local celebrations. The main square is closed to traffic and hosts live music and dance, plus a midnight countdown.
The city skyline lights up with fireworks and crackers that men, women and children launch from street corners, rooftops and apartment balconies. While it’s not as spectacular as in Tbilisi (I have honestly never seen anything like that before in my life!), the light show in Kutaisi is still pretty impressive.
The yard in front of Bagrati Cathedral and the viewpoint at Mtsvanekvavila church are two of the best vantage points in Kutaisi to watch the fireworks display.
12. Watch the Alilo Procession & join in Orthodox Christmas traditions
The Alilo Parade is a beautiful Georgian Christmas tradition that unfolds in Tbilisi, Kutaisi, and other cities and large towns throughout the country.
The Orthodox ritual sees thousands of people march in unison down the streets, dressed in special robes and carrying Georgian flags, crucifixes and icons. In Kutaisi, bison and donkeys are enlisted to pull wooden carts called uremi. As they travel their circuit, participants collect food, clothing and other donations from onlookers to distribute to people in need.
The Kutaisi Alilo Procession is held every year on Orthodox Christmas Day, January 7. It normally starts at 10am from Kutaisi City Hall. Participants encircle the main square before travelling down Paliashvili Street and across Rustaveli Bridge, then culminating at Victory Square.
I have found that other Orthodox Christmas traditions that have been lost in Tbilisi are still alive in Kutaisi. This includes the Alilo singers – groups of children who rove from door to door on Christmas eve chanting special songs in exchange for small gifts.
Our first Christmas in Kutaisi, we were completely unprepared for this and had to give the children whatever we had at home – instant noodles and boxes of oats! Keep some fruit and individually wrapped candies handy in case you are visited by the Alilo kids.
Where to stay in Kutaisi
If it’s your first time visiting Kutaisi, I highly recommend choosing a hotel that’s located in the city centre. See this neighbourhood guide for detailed recommendations, or check out my top Kutaisi accommodation picks below.
TOP CHOICE: Communal Hotel (⭐ 9.7). Launching in autumn 2023, the latest offering from The Communal Company (also of Communal Telavi and Tbilisi) is Kutaisi’s premier boutique hotel. Rooms are cosy and perfectly decorated, and the property has an outdoor pool and onsite restaurant-bar, Doli.
BUDGET-FRIENDLY: Black Tomato (⭐ 9.2). This popular hostel in historic Sapichkhia offers both dorms and private doubles with ensuites. The terrace garden is lovely, and the onsite Georgian-Jewish restaurant serves a delicious breakfast plus meals throughout the day.
MID-RANGE: Newport Hotel (⭐ 9.1). Located on the cusp of Kutaisi’s historic Jewish Quarter, behind the Colchis Fountain, this hotel is located inside the former Kutaisi Courthouse. Rooms are comfortable, the service is friendly, and the onsite bar-restaurant is excellent.
MID-RANGE: Hotel 1887 (⭐ 9.2). This historic 19th-century house is a 10-minute walk from the Colchis Fountain. Rooms pair original wooden panelling and parquet floors with minimal, Scandi-style furnishings. There is a garden, and some rooms have private balconies.
UP-SCALE: Hotel Grand Opera (⭐ 8.7). Situated in the heart of Kutaisi centre, this hotel has a magnificent rooftop bar overlooking the Opera Theatre. Expect well-appointed rooms and a generous breakfast from this hotel with a location that’s impossible to beat.
More Kutaisi travel resources
- The best things to do in Kutaisi, with a suggested Kutaisi itinerary
- Kutaisi side trips, for winter adventures & much more
- Alternative Kutaisi, 25 weird & wonderful things to do
- The best bars in Kutaisi, for Georgian wine and more
- The best neighbourhoods in Kutaisi, plus my recommended hotels
- How to get from Kutaisi Airport to the city, helpful transport tips
- Guide to Tskaltubo, the best day trip from Kutaisi
- Staying at Tskaltubo Spa Resort, a refurbished sanatorium
- Guide to Chiatura, riding the cable cars near Kutaisi
- Guide to Martvili Canyon, a green oasis near Kutaisi
- Visiting Kutaisi Caves & Canyons, a year-round day trip option
- How to travel from Kutaisi to Tbilisi, detailed transit guide
- How to travel from Kutaisi to Batumi, detailed transit guide
hii Emily, your blog help us quiet a bit and was the main searching place for nice ideas in Georgia so far and never disappointed. one question, do you have some recommendations for handcrafts Stores in Kutaisi. looking for nice souvenirs and a goft for my god child. Keep up your great work it’s much appreciated.
Basil
Thank you, Basil! There is not much in the way of good handicraft stores in Kutaisi, unfortunately – I recommend doing your shopping in Tbilisi.
Love this post, Emily! I think we will be travelling to Kutaisi over the coming months — some time between December-March — and everything you’ve shared here is so insightful. We’re very excited! Thanks a million xx
Thanks Aoife! I will be here. Let me know if you’d like to meet for a glass of wine!
Amazing! Would love to! Will email when we’ve got dates.