Tbilisi in Winter: 25 Cosy & Magical Cold-Weather Activities (2025 Update)

25 good reasons to visit Tbilisi in winter, plus my advice for travelling to Georgia in the colder months.

With natural hot springs right in the centre of town and a surplus of cool museums and markets, cosy wine bars and cafes, Tbilisi in winter is an absolute delight.

Many people visit Georgia in winter solely to hit the ski slopes. But its capital is equally suited to a winter city break.

The relatively mild climate makes Tbilisi a good place to escape from Western Europe’s biting cold. An abundance of festivities and weather-appropriate activities means that Tbilisi has just as much to offer visitors during the winter months as any other season.

The first time I visited Georgia it was in late winter. My initial impressions of Tbilisi were of a city still tucked under its winter blanket. Sure, the skies might be a little grey and the greenery a little parched, but that doesn’t detract from Tbilisi’s charm (in a way, it actually adds to it).

Since moving to Georgia, I have spent a total of FIVE winters in the country. I can confidently say that this is one of my favourite times of year.

Also see: Top 10+ best places to visit in Georgia in winter for snow.

People often have this idea that Tbilisi and Georgia is a hard, frosty place. (Maybe it’s because of the history, or the profuse amount of concrete.) For the most part, this is a misconception.

When you visit Georgia for yourself, you’ll hopefully notice the glowing warmth that emanates from both the people and the national spirit. That, paired with soul-warming Georgian food and wine, is enough to make even the coldest of winter days feel toasty.

My guide to visiting Tbilisi in winter will show you 25 of the city’s top winter activities, plus help you prepare for a cold-weather trip to Georgia with advice on what to wear, pack, what to expect from the weather, and where to stay.

Essential reading: My ultimate list of unique things to do in Tbilisi no matter the season.

When is it winter in Tbilisi?

Georgia is in the northern hemisphere so winter falls in December/January/February. Cooler temperatures start to set in after the autumn harvest (around mid-October). Winter Solstice falls on December 21/22.

It’s not uncommon for the cold weather to linger on until as late as April. Usually the first signs of spring in Tbilisi start to appear after Orthodox Easter in April/May.

What is the best month to visit Tbilisi in winter?

Late December and early January are my favourite winter periods in Georgia. February is usually bitterly cold and a month to avoid, while March can sometimes feel like an extension of winter (with some spring flowers thrown in).

All in all, winter weather in Tbilisi is fairly mild compared to some other cities in Europe. The climate is definitely on the dry side, so you don’t get the same biting chill as in the west of the country (winters in Kutaisi often feel colder because of the humidity).

Tbilisi is located in a valley, so remember that windchill is definitely a factor. With an icy breeze thrown into the mix, it can feel quite brisk, especially on a clear blue-sky day.

Every year is a bit different, but here is a general idea of what to expect:

Tbilisi in December

Most years, December in Tbilisi feels like an extension of autumn, with fall colours lingering on the trees and temperatures remaining quite mild. Daytime temps average 8-10°C (46-50°F), while the evenings gradually become chillier as the month wears on.

December and January are the driest months of the year in Tbilisi, so it’s unlikely that rain will interfere with your plans. It’s usually very pleasant to be out and about in the Botanical Garden or one of the city’s parks on a bright winter’s afternoon.

If there happens to be early snowfall (as there was in 2023 and 2024 and briefly in 2025), you might be able to catch snowy landscapes around Tbilisi (for example in Sabaduri Forest) at the beginning of December or even the end of November.

From the middle of the month, Christmas/New Year festivities start to get into full swing. The city has a wonderful, warm atmosphere – but unfortunately the traffic gets out of control, making it difficult to get around the city.

Tbilisi in January

January is technically the coldest month of the year in Tbilisi, when the mercury dips to an average daytime temperature of 7°C (45°F). Nights are chilly, with temperatures falling below freezing (32°F).

Again, January is typically dry with a very slim chance of snow in the city.

January tends to be a quieter month, especially in the days after New Year. Some businesses take their holidays in early January and close up for a few weeks.

Tbilisi in February

February temperature are much the same as December (hovering around 8-10°C (46-50°F) during the day), yet this is probably my least favourite of the winter months in Tbilisi.

Even though Tbilisi doesn’t get particularly grey or gloomy, the air does become thick and stagnant by February. In fact Tbilisi has quite a serious air quality problem and has been named among the worst cities in Europe for pollution. The main culprit is nitrogen dioxide from exhaust fumes, which reaches critical levels in several districts.

It’s not necessarily something you have to worry about, but it is something to keep in mind if you’re planning to visit Tbilisi in winter. If you’re sensitive to air pollution, you should monitor IQAir and plan your days accordingly.

Tbilisi in March (winter extended!)

Every year, ‘Moody March’ has something unexpected in store for Tbilisi and Georgia. Oftentimes this transition month brings freezing temperatures, high winds and even snow – making it feel like another month of winter.

Spring finally arrives in Tbilisi in April. See my seasonal spring guide for tips.

Good to know: All restaurants, cafes, museums, shopping centres etc. are heated and comfortable in winter. Central heating is common in homes in Tbilisi and in other places throughout Georgia. Most guesthouses, apartments and hotels have gas heating. I have included my winter accommodation tips at the end of the post.

Does it snow in Tbilisi?

Snow in Tbilisi is an annual occurrence, but it’s usually very light and never lasts more than a couple of hours. Snow usually falls in late winter/early spring. Every year there will be one or two heavy snow days like there were in 2021.

In 2020, we had one single day of light snowfall that quickly melted away within 48 hours. It was just enough to dust Mtatsminda with a thin layer of powder – but not enough to warrant wearing snow boots or any special gear. This is typical for Tbilisi.

The heavier snow in 2021/22 was quite unusual. 2023 also featured a handful of snowy days, while winter 2024 has been dry so far with just the tiniest sprinkling of snow in early December.

Winter holidays & festivals in Georgia

Here is a quick list of the main calendar dates in Georgia for winter. Note that December 25 is not a holiday – Christmas falls later on January 7.

Some small businesses close up from December 31 until the first weeks of January, but you will always find plenty of restaurants/cafes/shops open in Tbilisi during the holiday period.

• December 7/21, 2024: Start of the winter sports season at Georgia’s ski resorts
• December 16, 2024 -January 7, 2025: Christmas lights & Christmas markets in Tbilisi
• December 31, 2024: New Year’s Eve
• January 1, 2025: New Year’s Day (public holiday)
• January 2, 2025: Bedoba (public holiday)
• January 7, 2025: Orthodox Christmas Day (public holiday)
• January 14, 2025: Orthodox New Year (public holiday)
• January 19, 2025: Orthodox Epiphany (public holiday)
• February 14, 2025: Lamproba (Svaneti)

Also read: The best things to do in Georgia in winter (beyond Tbilisi).

Best things to do in Tbilisi in winter

If Tbilisi in winter sounds like you, you’ll be pleased to know there are plenty of cosy and weather-appropriate things to do in the city. Here are my top recommendations including special winter events.

Tbilisi dials the Christmas festivity up to eleven. Before the Christmas Markets officially open in December (see #23 below), the city’s main streets and squares come alive with sparkling lights. Plenty of businesses, shopping malls and other venues join in the fun by setting up their own photogenic displays.

Visit Tbilisi any time between early December and the middle of January, and you are guaranteed to see wonderful illuminations and festive decorations.

Here are a few places where you can find Christmas lights in Tbilisi:

• Rustaveli Avenue (pictured directly above) & Freedom Square
• The Presidential Palace (Orbeliani Palace) (pictured below left)
• Gardenia Shevardnadze
• Rustaveli-Mtatsminda Cable Car Lower Station Building (pictured at the top)
• Inside Galleria Mall (Freedom Square)
• Inside & outside City Mall (Saburtalo)
• Along David Aghmashenebeli Avenue (pictured below right)

As you can see, many venues combine Western-style tinsel and elves with traditional holiday symbols including Georgian Christmas trees (chichilaki). It is common to see Georgian and EU flags paired together as part of the display.

In most cases the lights stay on until sunrise, so you have the option of a late-night or an early-morning stroll!

The sulfur baths are a Tbilisi institution and a must-do for all visitors, no matter the season. Under the sea of brick-domed roofs in Abanotubani district you’ll find an intriguing underworld of spa culture.

Going for a bath is traditionally a winter activity. That’s because the sulfur waters are naturally warm, ranging from 38-40°C. It’s incredible how thoroughly a short soak warms you to the bone and keeps you radiating heat for hours to come. Whether you opt for a private room (recommended) or a public bathhouse, one thing’s for certain: it’s going to get steamy!

One of my favourite winter activities in Tbilisi is to walk up to the Tabori viewpoint above the Old Town for sunset then take an evening soak before dinner.

Make sure you say yes to a traditional kisi scrub – a lively rub down with a textured mitt performed by a meskise therapist – and wave goodbye to a few layers of dry winter skin.

Insider tip: Tbilisi’s baths work differently to the ones in Budapest or Istanbul or anywhere else for that matter! For a list of my favourite bathhouses and etiquette tips, make sure you read my complete guide to the Tbilisi sulfur baths. For natural outdoor hot springs in Georgia, see this list.

Whenever I visit Tbilisi in winter, I always venture up to Mtatsminda. This amusement park on top of the city’s highest hill has a fascinating history. In early winter, the mist and wintry blues (and lack of crowds) really adds to the mystical, slightly eerie feel.

There are multiple ways to reach Mtatsminda. For the best views, I recommend riding Tbilisi’s newest gondola, the Rustaveli-Mtatsminda Cable Car, which relaunched in October 2024 after being closed for several decades.

The cable car departs from the renovated station close to Rustaveli Metro Station. In December and January, the historic building is decked out with gorgeous Christmas decorations (see above).

The gondolas move very slowly so the ride up the hill takes a good four minutes. Along the way, you will be treated to a bird’s eye view over the rooftops of Mtatsminda district and the silver onion domes of the Russian Orthodox Mikhail Archangel Church.

The view from the big concrete balcony at the top is even more spectacular. From up here, you get a full panorama of Tbilisi city.

A walk around Mtatsminda Park reveals a mix of slightly spooky carnival rides and whacky architecture. The iconic Restaurant Funicular, which was built in 1938, has a cafe on its bottom level where you can stop for a coffee and a snack. I highly recommend ordering the specialty dish of ponchiki, small donuts filled with your choice of vanilla, chocolate or pumpkin cream.

To get back to the city, you can ride the cable car or the funicular – or if you want to warm up with a walk, follow the forested pathway back down the mountainside. It is also possible to hike all the way from Mtatsminda to Narikala Fortress for more city views.

It’s noticeably chillier up on the hill, so remember to bring an extra layer.

Insider tip: I highly recommend walking back down the mountain via Mtatsminda Pantheon, the final resting place of some of Georgia’s most illustrious writers and public figures. The headstones and memorial statues are very interesting. See my full guide to Mtatsminda Holy Mountain for directions.

While winter is not the best time of year for hiking in Georgia, there are some nice off-season walks available in the hills and valleys around Tbilisi.

The walk up or down Mtatsminda mountain, as described above, is perfect for a short walk. It takes less than an hour in either direction. For something more challenging, I recommend hiking from Vake Park to Turtle Lake. This 4-kilometre signposted trail takes around 1.5 hours, and the views from the ridge are pretty stunning. Find full directions and a map here on All Trails.

Another popular winter day hike is the 4-5 hour walk from Kojori village to Tbilisi. The starting point in Kojori is easy to reach by bus or taxi, and you can visit the lovely Azeula Fortress while you’re there. Find a detailed guide to this hike here on Going the Whole Hogg.

Insider tip: If you plan to hike in winter, make sure you have the right clothing and gear. Be mindful of shorter days, and never hike alone or at night. See more tips and urban hiking routes in my guide to the best day walks around Tbilisi.

Many travellers come to Georgia every winter for their first glimpse of snow. While it’s rare to see any meaningful snowfall in Tbilisi itself, you don’t have to travel very far at all to find quintessential winter landscapes.

Sabaduri Forest is a great choice for a quick and easy snow trip. It takes just over an hour to reach the area from the centre of Tbilisi – and while there’s not all that much to do when you get there, it is an undoubtedly excellent spot for taking photos, building snowmen, and generally frolicking in the powder.

The best time to visit Sabaduri is on a clear morning following several days of snowfall. It looks most spectacular when the leafless trees are heavy with fresh white power and the sky is blue. As you can see, we were not lucky enough to score a perfect day when we visited this winter – but even in the grey gloom Sabaduri was still worth it!

Two nearby places of interest are the non-profit Zoological Center (bear sanctuary) in Tskhvarichamia and the former Young Pioneer Camp in Tsiskari. The former is a must-visit for families – kids will love seeing and feeding the bears, who were all rescued from captivity or orphaned (remember to bring some apples and carrots with you). The pannos on the road to the Camp are some of the coolest Soviet-era mosaics I have seen in Georgia.

To turn this into a full-day trip, you can continue to Gudauri ski resort via Ananuri Fortress and the Friendship Monument. This is exactly what we did as part of the Winter Family Adventure Sabaduri and Gudauri tour organised by Friendly.ge. Use my referral link to make a reservation, and remember to use the promocode WANDERLUSH for a 10% discount.

It is also possible to visit the forest independently by hiring a driver through the GoTrip platform. Check prices here.

Insider tip: If you are heading up to Gudauri or Kazbegi, add Sabaduri Forest to your itinerary as a stop on the your to the mountains. See my Georgian Military Highway guide for more details.

Georgia is world-famous for its wine scene and Tbilisi is the best place in the country to sample the full line-up of regional drops. There are wine bars across the city that serve European-style wines and traditional qvevri wines (fermented underground large clay vessels), either by the glass or as part of a formal degustation.

Many of Tbilisi’s wine bars are located underground inside traditional brick cellars. They are exceptionally atmospheric, romantic, and toasty-warm in winter – the perfect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing.

Georgia’s wine harvest (the Rtveli) takes place in autumn (September/early October in Kakheti), so when you visit Tbilisi in winter, you’ll have access to the new vintages, including the latest saperavis, semi-sweet reds, and legendary ambers.

Insider tip: Here’s where to do a professional wine tasting in Tbilisi with a sommelier. For something more casual, here are my favourite bars in Tbilisi.

Tbilisi’s Dezerter Bazaar is the inner city’s main produce hub, a sprawling jumble of open-air and undercover stalls. Every morning, wholesalers, homemakers and restaurateurs alike descend on the market to buy up rounds of farm cheese, carved meat and fresh fruit and veg by the boxful. It’s a cacophony of colour, commerce and food culture.

In spring and summer, the market overflows with vibrant fruits. In winter, I particularly enjoy browsing the indoor part of the market which takes on the character of a gigantic kitchen pantry stocked with every kind of spice and dried herb you can possibly imagine. There are plenty of bebias around, all of them inviting you to try their offerings.

Pickling and preserving is very popular in Georgia as a way to keep fresh produce in circulation during the cold months. Winter is a great time to see the most luxurious market pickles alongside apples, beats, cabbages, and other seasonal veg.

Be sure to wander around the periphery of the market, where you can find hand-knitted woollen socks, hand-carved wooden kitchenware, and other crafts. There are a number of bakeries on the street outside the market where you can buy a piece of oven-fresh, still-steaming puri bread – the ideal winter snack.

Insider tip: Read my guide to visiting the Dezerter Bazaar to learn how the market is laid out and what produce you should look out for.

Georgian food is a revelation. If you’ve never tried dishes such as khinkali and khachapuri before, prepare to be blown away. The aromatic flavours and innovative use of produce in Georgian cooking will make you re-think your definition of ‘delicious’.

I don’t care what time of year you’re visiting, you should always plan your Tbilisi itinerary around eating. Winter is probably my favourite time to restaurant hop, firstly because so much Georgian food is tailor-made for winter, and secondly because so many Tbilisi restaurants are warm and homely.

A big part of the reason for this is Georgia’s topography. Much of the country is mountainous and chilly for most of the year, which has resulted in a lot of regional dishes that are purpose-built to warm you up, body and soul. A great example is adjika, a fiery condiment and rub native to Western Georgia.

There are always lots of protein, dairy and carb-heavy dishes on the menu, including the notorious khachapuri. Rich stews and simple dishes like lobio (beans in a clay pot) are hearty and nourishing. Nothing beats a piping hot bowl of chikhirtma (Georgian chicken soup) on a cold winter’s day.

If you’re visiting around Christmas or New Year, you might get an opportunity to savour traditional festive fare such as gozinaki (a walnut and honey dessert). Funnily enough, satsivi, another popular holiday dish made with creamy walnuts and chicken or fish, is actually served cold.

Insider tip: For an exhaustive guide to Tbilisi’s foodie scene, see my top restaurants to eat at this year.

If you need to escape the chill, Tbilisi has an ample number of museums and galleries. As well as the state-run institutions on Rustaveli Avenue (the Georgian National Museum, including the Soviet Occupation Hall, and the MFA Museum of Fine Arts are my top picks), there are numerous alternative museums, offbeat collections and independent galleries that are worth the ticket price.

My personal favourites are the Georgian Art Palace and the Museum of the History of Georgian Medicine, both in Chugureti district (near Fabrika). The Wine Museum offers an excellent primer on Georgian wine culture, and the State Silk Museum (which reopened in October 2024 after being closed for several years) sheds light on Georgia’s heritage of silk production.

House museums – small collections devoted to various writers, poets, artists and politicians that mix personal possessions and informative exhibits, always set inside the apartment or house the person once lived in – are a popular genre of museum in Georgia.

Of the many house museums in Tbilisi, my top pick for winter is the Elene Akhvlediani Memorial Museum, which reopened in December 2024. The cosy apartment showcases dozens of canvases by the Telavi-born painter, including magnificent winter landscapes that depict Old Tbilisi, Racha and other locations in the snow.

There are a range of independent art spaces in Tbilisi as well, many of which are free to visit.

Find two more excellent museums at #12 and #13 on this list below.

Insider tip: Here’s a list of my must-visit Tbilisi museums and galleries.

Tbilisi’s interiors are every bit as spectacular as its crumbling facades. If the chill bites too hard, dive through the doorway of one of the old merchant houses to drink in the exquisite frescos, spiralling staircases and marble floors constructed at the turn-of-the-century to appease the expensive taste of the city’s wealthiest merchants and manufacturers.

Insider tip: If you’re unsure where to start, here is a compilation of some of Tbilisi’s most iconic buildings and where to find them.

Despite being right in the centre of the city, not many tourists know to visit the Museum of Books. On a winter’s afternoon you will no doubt have the entire place to yourself – free to roam the aisles and leaf through the pages of history.

Holding more than 19,000 rare books on its bulging shelves, this is the largest literary-themed museum in the Caucasus (a nice juxtaposition to Baku‘s Museum of Miniature Books in neighbouring Azerbaijan). Launched quite recently in 2017, it holds a permanent exhibition of historical books, including a 17th-century manuscript of Shota Rustaveli’s epic The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.

At the adjacent National Parliamentary Library, you can find a table in the reading room to catch up on some work or cosy up in a corner with a good book. The thing that really makes the Museum of Books worth visiting is its ornamented interior – the detailed ceiling frescoes, chandeliers and carved staircase makes it one of the most stunning buildings in Tbilisi.

Another gorgeous interior in Tbilisi, the State Academy of Arts is one of the oldest educational institutions in the region. Its setting, a former private mansion that belonged to Armenian merchant Vardan Astvatsatryan Arshakuni, is beautiful beyond belief.

The highlight is the Qajar-style Mirror Halls, crafted by Persian masters who were specially brought to Tbilisi to work their magic. Back in Iran, this type of mirror work – where tiny pieces of glass are arranged in geometric patterns – was purposefully used in the home’s winter quarters to increase natural light flow and bring joy to the residents on cloudy winter days. I couldn’t think of a more suitable building to visit in Tbilisi in January or February!

Along with the gorgeous Golestan-style mirrors, you’ll see Persian-style miniature paintings, muqarnas plaster and mashrabiya stained-glass windows. There are many similarities to the Khan’s Palace in Sheki.

Insider tip: See this guide for more photos of the Mirror Halls and tips for planning your visit.

If you’re not a coffee drinker – or if you just want to have an offbeat experience in Tbilisi – be sure to check out Bitadze Tea Shop in the historic Sololaki neighbourhood. This family-run tea merchants and museum is one of Tbilisi’s best-kept secrets. It’s tiny and snug; one of the most magical places to escape winter for a while.

Let Giorgi, second-generation tea connoisseur, lead you down the rabbit hole of tea history. He can even perform a tea ceremony for you using white and green leaves grown locally in Georgia’s Guria region.

I never knew Georgia had a tea industry until I met Giorgi. The story of how tea first came to Georgia is a fascinating one (I’ll save it for another time). Without any body to formally organise tea growers, the Bitadze family stepped in to support co-ops and promote Georgia’s reputation abroad.

Browse the tea ephemera Giorgi and his father have accumulated over the years, and buy some loose leaf tea or tea seed oil to take home.

Another thing Tbilisi definitely doesn’t lack is cute cafes. Specialty coffee is becoming more and more popular in Georgia, and cafes such as CoffeeLAB and Shavi Coffee Roasters (which both roast their beans on-site), Santino, They Said Books and Pulp all serve specialty brews.

A spot of cafe hopping might be just what the weather orders on a brisk winter’s day. Choose between modern cafes with chic interiors like Erti Kava or Mint (pictured) and cosy cafes that personify old-world Tbilisi elegance such as Leila or Linville.

Insider tip: A few cafes open early and serve breakfast and sweets alongside hot drinks. Here are my favourite laptop-friendly cafes in Tbilisi for great coffee.

If Brutalism is your thing, winter is the perfect time to explore Tbilisi’s Soviet-era architecture and mosaics. Winter skies are the perfect backdrop to concrete buildings, and fewer leaves on the trees makes it easier to appreciate and photograph bas-reliefs, mosaics, and other decorations.

Visit the Chronicles of Georgia, a fascinating sculptural ensemble with wonderful city views. It’s windy up on the hill, so be sure to wear your warmest gear!

The Tbilisi Skybridge is another Tbilisi marvel. Built in the 1960s, this experimental housing complex features a high-rise bridge that connects the different apartment blocks.

See it plus the Former Archaeology Museum and abandoned underground water cisterns, the Jenga-like Ministry of Highways building and other architectural icons on Friendly.ge’s brilliant Brutal Urban Exploration Tour. Use the code WANDERLUSH at checkout to get 10% off.

For something different, Tbilisi’s first and only legal underground bunker tour with local guide Tornike (AKA Wise Guy) takes you into the depths of a nuclear fallout shelter beneath the city. Book a private tour via Tornike’s Facebook Page.

Insider tip: Here is a shortlist of my favourite Soviet-era architecture in Tbilisi plus how to see each of them.

Beyond the usual tourist shops, Tbilisi is overflowing with sweet stores, specialty boutiques and outdoor markets where the city’s artists, designers and crafters trade their goods. You won’t have any trouble finding handmade and authentic souvenirs to take home as keepsakes – but you might struggle with editing your purchases down to suitcase-size.

Popular handicrafts include lurji supra (blue and white tablecloths), clay pottery, cloisonne enamelware, and silver jewellery.

There are plenty of independent designers and boutiques around Tbilisi, including EthnoDesign and Concept Store ESKI that both sell Christmas ornaments and winter woollies. Funduki makes delightful hand-knitted winter slippers inspired by traditional Tushetian designs (pictured above).

Insider tip: Here is a full list of my favourite Tbilisi souvenirs, with a free map to help you with your shopping in Tbilisi.

Rummaging Tbilisi’s antique markets and shops is another great activity for a winter’s morning. If you get a sunny day, head to the city’s most popular flea market, the the Dry Bridge, for a huge selection of trinkets and memorabilia. It is held every day throughout winter provided there is not heavy rain or snow.

My favourite lesser-touristy alternative to the Dry Bridge is Barakolkha, a local antique market located inside the sprawling Navtlughi Bazaar near Samgori Metro Station. The second-hand section and formal antiques shops around Mevele Dead End stock a wonderful selection of Georgian, Soviet-manufactured and retro European furniture and knickknacks.

19. Watch a classic flick at a microcinema

Microcinemas are a growing trend in Tbilisi, with at least half a dozen of these independent mini-cinemas having opened in the past few years. The big theatres in Georgia (Cavea, Amirani) all screen films in English, but if you would rather catch a cult classic or one of the latest indie releases, a microcinema is a great alternative.

FOMO Cinema in Chugureti doubles as a wine bar and has a special program of Christmas flicks in December, Cinemaholics off Orbeliani Square shows films in Georgian, English and Russian, and the Cinema at the National Archives of Georgia in Saburtalo draws from its massive library of Georgian and Soviet-Georgian productions for free screenings throughout the year.

Georgian dance is an incredible display of the country’s culture and the physical prowess of the athletes who are trained to perform it. There are many different genres of folk dance; the most popular are Kartuli (wedding dance), Acharuli from Adjara region, and Khorumi (war dance).

Perfecting the moves is an important part of many young children’s education. Between the sumptuous costumes and the blazing fire balls (yes, some routines really do involve dancing with flames), watching a live performance is a heartwarming, stirring experience.

After touring overseas in summer, Sukhishvili Georgian National Ballet returns home to Tbilisi in autumn/winter. If you get the chance, do not miss seeing them at the Opera Theatre or their outdoor stage, Takara. I was lucky enough to sit in on a Sukishvili dress rehearsal and later attend one of their proper shows. Watching them is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Meanwhile many restaurants around the city host troupes along with live music, singing and of course ample wine and feasting. Performances are held nightly during dinner service at Ethno Tsiskvili, Tabla and other venues, and last for around an hour. Advance bookings are usually recommended, especially for Ethno Tsiskvili.

Insider tip: Here’s a list of restaurants with Georgian folk dance and live music.

Alongside dance, Georgia has a long and significant history of drama and performing arts. If you visit Gori, be sure to check what’s on at the George Eristavi State Drama Theatre, one of the oldest institutions in the region.

In Tbilisi, there is no shortage of venues to catch an evening opera, orchestral performance or stage play. Winter is the cultural season so if the weather is particularly icy, this is one of the nicest ways to while away a winter’s eve.

My top choice is actually the marionette show at Rezo Gabriadze Theatre. Yes, it uses puppets – but trust me, the plot lines are not at all childlike (and not always suitable for kids either). The puppets tour in summer and only play in Tbilisi during autumn and winter.

Rustaveli Theatre, meanwhile, hosts contemporary stage shows and often features Shakespeare on its holiday playbill.

Speaking of stunning interiors: You can’t visit Tbilisi without setting foot inside the Opera and Ballet Theatre (pictured above). If you’re walking along Rustaveli Avenue, the striated gold-and-red facade will no doubt grab your attention. Just wait until you see the foyer…

Established in 1847 and originally Christened the Caravanserai Theatre (a nod to Tbilisi’s Silk Road heritage), the theatre has attracted many eminent performers and spectators throughout its history, including French author Alexandre Dumas, the Vienna Empire Operetta, and the St. Petersburg Ballet Company. It is the birthplace of Tbilisi’s Philharmonic Society and the national opera.

The first building (located at present-day Freedom Square) was destroyed by fire in 1874, but the second theatre, completed in 1896, is every bit as beautiful as the original. The Moorish-style decorations in the lobby and foyers are so ornate, you really have to see it in person to appreciate the craftsmanship.

Check show times and buy tickets for all the venues mentioned above on the TKT.GE website.

Special winter activities

If your travel plans happen to coincide with these dates, here are more special Tbilisi winter activities that revolve around festivals and Christmas/New Year traditions.

22. Buy a Chichilaki & participate in Orthodox holiday traditions (December & January)

The second country to adopt Christianity after neighbouring Armenia, Georgia has been a predominantly Orthodox nation since the 4th century. Around 80% of Georgians identify as Orthodox, which naturally means the Christmas holidays are kind of a big deal – second only to Easter in terms of importance.

Like Easter, Orthodox Christmas falls a couple of weeks later on the Julian calendar. The whole city lights up from mid-December with half a dozen different feast days and important religious holidays falling between December and January.

Special rituals such as eating Christmas foods (a few of which I mentioned earlier) are observed, and Tovlis Babua (‘Snow Grandpa’) – AKA Georgian Santa Claus – comes to visit. He lives in Svaneti, wears a felt coat and Svanetian hat, and carries presents in a saddle bag!

One of the most interesting Georgian Christmas traditions are these peculiar-looking Christmas trees. Known as Chichilaki, they’re fashioned from the dry, shaved branches of a hazelnut or walnut trees. On January 18, Epiphany Eve, families ceremoniously burn their Chichilaki to symbolise new beginnings. I’ve also seen them hoisted high in the branches of trees on the streets of Tbilisi – keep a lookout!

It’s traditional to give your neighbours and friends candies and chocolates during the holiday period (sweets symbolise youth and good luck), so be sure to carry some with you at all times. If you visit a Georgian family during the holiday period, it’s polite to bring them a sweet something such as a box of chocolates.

Even if you don’t have a religious bone in your body, the holiday season is still a wonderful time to be in Georgia.

Tbilisi takes on a special vibrance during the holiday period, with elaborate light displays and festive decorations along Rustaveli Avenue, in Freedom Square and elsewhere (see #1 at the top of this list). The pièce de résistance is the gigantic Christmas Tree that gets pieced together and illuminated in front of Parliament every year.

Christmas villages and Christmas markets pop up in Tbilisi from the middle of December and last until January. Tbilisi City Hall’s official markets are held in Orbeliani Square and in Dedaena Park. Various private markets are hosted on weekends in December by venues such as Fabrika, a reclaimed Soviet factory turned creative space.

Tbilisi Christmas Markets offer a mix of handicrafts and food. You can try special Georgian festive fare (including mulled Saperavi wine!) and shop for locally made gifts.

Insider tip: Check out my guide to the holidays in Georgia for all things Christmas and New Years related.

Orthodox Christmas Day, January 7, is an official holiday in Georgia and traditionally a time for family. After attending midnight mass, many people join the Alilo, an annual Christmas Day parade where participants roam the streets of Tbilisi, Batumi and other large cities to collect donations and food for families in need.

In Tbilisi, the Alilo starts from First Republic Square at around 1pm and finishes at Sameba Cathedral, Tbilisi’s main church. Participants dress in religious regalia and beautiful costumes and sing and chant their way down the streets. Smaller processions take place across the country, including in Kutaisi. Visitors are welcome to attend and observe the ritual.

The most significant date on Georgia’s Christmas calendar is not January 7, though – it’s December 31. This is a leftover from Soviet days when religious holidays were banned.

If you like to party, you’re in for a treat: Georgia celebrates New Year’s Eve twice. New New Year (AKA International New Year) is celebrated on December 31 with the usual parties, dinners and live concerts (after dinner with the folks, of course). In Tbilisi, you’ll see fireworks going off from every balcony and street corner. It’s unlike anything I’ve seen (or heard) before in my life!

On January 1, families observe the tradition of Mkvleoba. It says that the first guest to enter your home after midnight will determine how the rest of the year unfolds – so if you happen to be invited over, make sure you bring your best candy with you (sweets are a symbol of good luck, prosperity and youthfulness).

January 2 is Bedoba, a ‘personal day’ where you would traditionally do something nice for yourself (hang out with friends, get a manicure) to set the tone for your year ahead.

Old New Year, marked on January 14 according to the Julian calendar, is a much more subdued affair, celebrated with a service at one of Tbilisi’s churches, dinner with the family, and maybe a few sparklers.

Best day trips from Tbilisi in winter for snow & scenery

The best day trips from Tbilisi to take during winter involve escaping the city to see snow. Along with Sabaduri Forest (mentioned above at #5), Kazbegi in the moutains three hours’ north of Tbilisi is my top pick.

Alternatively, head to the mountains south-west of Tbilisi to visit Borjomi, where you can soak in the Tsar’s sulfur baths and take a side-trip to the winter resort at Bakuriani for skiing or snowshoe hiking. See more things to do in Borjomi.

Insider tip: Find more great places to visit in winter in Georgia here.

Where to stay in Tbilisi in winter

Tbilisi has a good range of hostels, family run guesthouses and charming boutique hotels to choose from. In winter, to limit your time outdoors, it’s a good idea to stay in the inner suburbs of Old Tbilisi, on either side of the river. You can find my detail Tbilisi neighbourhood guide here.

Central gas heating is standard for most places. If you’re staying in an Airbnb, I highly recommend choosing a place with plenty of natural light and ventilation so it doesn’t get too stuffy and dank.

See my Tbilisi neighbourhood and accommodation guide for a detailed break-down of the different areas and options. Here are my top overall Tbilisi hotel recommendations:

TOP CHOICE: The Blue Fox Hotel (⭐ 9.7). Located in the heart of Kala Old Town, this intimate 17-room hotel (formerly The House Hotel) features turquoise balconies overlooking a typical Tbilisi courtyard. Complimentary breakfast is served at the onsite restaurant-bar, while some of the city’s best restaurants are an easy stroll away.

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BOUTIQUE: Communal Plekhanovi (⭐ 9.2). Located in my favourite Tbilisi neighbourhood, this boutique hotel is among the finest in the city. Rooms are thoughtfully decorated with modern art and antiques, and there’s a fantastic restaurant, a wine bar and a gift shop onsite.

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MID-RANGE: Graphica Hotel (⭐ 9.2). Explore the lesser-travelled Avlabari neighbourhood when you stay at this chic boutique hotel. Graphica is footsteps from the metro for easy access to the rest of the city. Rooms feature work desks, and a complimentary breakfast is included.

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BUDGET: Pushkin 10 Hostel (⭐ 9.2). Located footsteps from both Orbeliani Square (near the Dry Bridge Market) and Freedom Square, this popular hostel has bright dorms and private doubles. The breakfast room overlooks the city from its 3rd floor location.

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What to wear in Tbilisi in winter

If you’re visiting Tbilisi in winter, you’ll need a fleece layer, a proper outer coat, boots, and standard woollies (hat, thick socks, gloves and a scarf) at a minimum. I feel the cold, so I sometimes wear thermal leggings under my jeans in winter.

Layering is absolutely key here – make sure you can easily remove a layer if you need to. The underground metro, for example, is very warm and a bit claustrophobic. Some underground restaurants and wine bars get very warm as well.

If you discover you didn’t pack enough warm gear, Tbilisi is brimming with second-hand and vintage shops where you can easily pick something up for a couple of dollars. Supplies for skiing/snowboarding (including waterproof outerwear) can all be rented on the spot at the different resorts.

If you want to blend in, go for darker colours, especially when it comes to outerwear. Plain wool coats are more widespread than puffy jackets or fur coats.

What to pack for Tbilisi in winter

You won’t need waterproof gear for Tbilisi, but you’ll definitely need it if you plan to visit the mountains after the city. If you are trekking, then you should pack quick-dry clothing, proper waterproof boots, and a few extra layers of clothing of course.

Woolly slippers are easy to come by in Georgia, and every hotel/guesthouse/Airbnb I’ve ever stayed at has had a hairdryer (no need to bring your travel version). You might want to pack a hot water bottle if you use one (although these are readily available at pharmacies).

Apart from that, I highly recommend packing a travel laundry line so you can hang your washing up inside (tumble driers are almost never seen in Georgia, unless you use a coin laundry).

Note that the climate in other parts of Georgia differs considerably to Tbilisi, and you’ll experience vastly different conditions in Kutaisi, Batumi, and especially in the mountainous regions.

Further reading: My all-seasons packing list for Georgia & detailed guide on what to wear in the different regions.

Important things to know before travelling to Tbilisi & Georgia in winter

Tbilisi operates as normal during winter, but there are other places in Georgia that come to a standstill. Remote mountain areas including Tusheti (in eastern Georgia’s Kakheti region) and Ushguli (Svaneti) are inaccessible during the winter months. Winter isn’t the best time for trekking in Georgia.

Conversely, winter is obviously the peak season for skiing and snowboarding. Resorts in Gudauri and Bakuriani book out over the holidays.

It’s important to remember that the days are quite short in winter. Factor this in when travelling between cities and planning your days out.

Overall, winter is a great time to travel to Tbilisi and Georgia, especially if you’re interested in food, culture and history rather than hiking or outdoor activities. It’s low season in Tbilisi, so the city is much quieter and better value for money in many respects.

Tbilisi in winter: Final thoughts

Tbilisi is an all-weather destination – there’s really no ‘bad’ time to visit. Winter brings a festive atmosphere, and the cold weather is a good excuse to overindulge in food and wine (not that you needed one!).

I love getting rugged up and spending time indoors at a good museum or in a friendly cafe. Of course there are plenty of blue-sky winter days as well when you can get out and explore.

If you prefer trekking and spending all your time outside, you might consider visiting in spring or summer instead.

Are you thinking of visiting Tbilisi this winter?