Narikala Fortress, Mother of Georgia, the TV Tower, Sameba Cathedral. When asked to name a famous Tbilisi landmark, these are usually the places that first come to mind.
But there’s another icon of Tbilisi’s skyline that has always fascinated me: the Hotel Iveria.
On first impression, the steel-and-glass monolith comes off as just another modern building. But trust me, this one has a particularly interesting history.
The Iveria has towered over Tbilisi since the 1960s. Holding its position at the very heart of the city on First Republic Square, it has been singled out as both a symbol for and a symptom of various political and social upheavals.
Not that you’d know it by looking at it.
Having relaunched in 2009 as the Radisson Blu Iveria, today it’s a 5-star hotel with 249 guest rooms, all of which command panoramic vistas of the city and Mtkvari river. The views – combined with the prime location walking distance from some of Tbilisi’s best restaurants, bars, cafes and museums – makes it one of the most sought-after luxury accommodations in the city.
I’m definitely down for a decadent buffet breakfast and a sky-high infinity pool, but the thing that really gets me is the building’s backstory. So while 5-star is not necessarily my style, when I was given the chance to spend a few nights at the Radisson Blu Iveria recently, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to experience this landmark from the inside.
A big thank-you to the Radisson Blu Iveria team for hosting us in exchange for a fair and honest review. As always, all opinions, recommendations and criticisms are 100% my own.
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History of the Hotel Iveria
Built by the Soviet government in 1967, the Hotel Iveria was the premier luxury hotel in Georgia, then part of the USSR. It was the tallest building in Tbilisi at the time, visible from almost everywhere, and quickly became synonymous with the city – even if its 289 rooms were off-limits to most locals.
The collapse of the Soviet Union put a stop to tourism, and in 1992, the hotel was co-opted for a different purpose. Internally displaced persons (IDPs) forced to flee Abkhazia in western Georgia and Tbilisians who lost their homes in the civil war were housed in the Iveria’s rooms.
Just like the families who were famously given refuge in Tskaltubo’s sanatoriums, the 800 or so people who found themselves permanent guests at the Hotel Iveria made it their own.
The Hotel Iveria in December 2003. Photo credit: jameswberk/Flickr (CC 2.0). Changes made.
Twenty years later, the hotel was sold to investors and the families relocated. The Iveria was reduced to its frame and completely restored. The colourful mosaic of tessellated balconies and temporary walls were replaced with a shiny new facade.
And so the Iveria came full circle and was reborn again to serve its original purpose as a hotel. Walking the hallways of the Radisson Blu, you can’t help but think of those people who, for a period, called the building home.
While other luxury developments in this part of the city are considered aesthetically jarring and out of place by most Tbilisians, the old Iveria is an enduring landmark. Most people of a certain age, I’m told, still refer to it as ‘the Iveria’. The developers’ decision to keep Iveria in the new title is something of a tribute to the building’s past. (The name comes from the ancient kingdom of Iveria (Iberia), the main monarchy in the eastern part of Georgia until the 6th century.)
Developed by the same group behind the Chavchavadze Estate at Tsinandali, the Iveria is an important piece of the nation’s history now under preservation.
The Radisson’s reach extends beyond the hotel and its spa to include a restaurant complex and a cafe on First Republic Square. All these buildings feature floor-to-ceiling windows that invite the sights and sounds of the city inside.
The rooms
One of the most striking things about the Radisson is the fact that it’s wrapped entirely in glass. When you’re inside one of the rooms, especially on an upper floor, the huge wrap-around windows create the illusion of floating above the city.
We stayed in one of the 34-square-metre Premium Rooms, where everything is designed to highlight the views, including the low-slung furniture. A study nook and generous bathroom with a tub are configured for complete privacy.
I’ve been to some pretty stunning viewpoints in Tbilisi, but the panoramas from the Radisson are something else. At first I actually felt quite disorientated looking at the city from some angles, having never seen Chugureti from this high up before. The view down the river towards Sameba Cathedral is stunning, especially at night when the church is illuminated.
Breakfast is served in one of the hotel’s three restaurants, Filini, and promises a huge spread of fresh fruit, homemade jams and other Georgian delicacies alongside all the staples you’d expect from a hotel buffet.
Republic 24
Across the road from the hotel, Republic 24 restaurant faces onto First Republic Square. I’ve eaten here a few times before and am always impressed by the traditional Georgian comfort food with Asian flavours. The menu was designed by brand chef Irakli Asatiani.
I highly recommend the Chveneburi Khinkali with Asian spices served in a bamboo steamer basket.
I was pleased to see two new additions to the restaurant: a gorgeous artwork by Vato Meskhi (pictured above), and a new larder boutique selling local food products (including Marleta’s goat cheese from Telavi), wine, and spirits. It’s a great place to pick up some edible Tbilisi souvenirs or provisions for a picnic.
Upstairs, Restaurant Republic is an upscale casual dining restaurant and terrace serving homemade pasta. It’s also the first and only restaurant in Georgia that offers dry-aged fish and meet cooked on an open fire grill.
Anne Semonin Spa
The crowning glory of the Iveria complex is the Anne Semonin Spa. Located alongside a fitness centre on the 18th and 19th floors of the hotel, it offers the same incredible city views. Entry is complimentary for hotel guests and the spa is open to drop-in visitors, with daily and monthly passes available.
The pièce de résistance here is the indoor infinity pool. It faces north, affording views all the way to Kazbegi and the snow-capped Greater Caucasus on a clear day.
Beyond the pool there are men’s and women’s salas, both with a steam room, dry sauna, and relaxation lounge, and private treatment rooms. Curtains separate the changing areas, while the rest of the spa – even the sauna – faces out towards the city. Massage and beauty treatments are available.
Downstairs, you’ll find a second outdoor swimming pool. It was closed at the time of our visit in winter, but by all accounts it’s a popular hangout in summer along with the Iveria Terrace restaurant.
Radisson Blu Iveria Tbilisi: Final thoughts
One of the things I enjoyed most about my stay at the Radisson was the incredible service and attention to detail in everything. This hotel really is top of its game – and for the location and views, I think it’s very much worth the splurge.
More than that, staying at the Radisson is a chance to experience a piece of living history and immerse yourself in one of Tbilisi’s most iconic buildings.
The details
The Radisson Blu Iveria is located at 1 First Republic Square, off Rustaveli Avenue.
Book direct through the Radisson website or via Booking.com.
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